Welcome to Club SAITO !
#5351
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Location: Winter Springs,
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I just installed new bearings in my Saito 125. What method is used to retime engine?? I know the cam location to TDC. Just need explanation on how to hold my tongue just right
#5352
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hopefully this might be the last word on ARO... I remember a 'recipe' used by Clarence Lee, and I've been using it for years now. It's 50% ATF and 50% Air Tool Oil (I use a special Marvel Mystery Oil air tool oil - not the 'regular' MMO)
Just dropping in my $.02
And I've been running a Saito .56 in my Twist 40 as a 'Sport' plane. Pretty good power. I think that the .65 will work out fine with proper balance. Again, just another $.02
Bob
Just dropping in my $.02
And I've been running a Saito .56 in my Twist 40 as a 'Sport' plane. Pretty good power. I think that the .65 will work out fine with proper balance. Again, just another $.02
Bob
#5353
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Eustis, FL
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Need to replace the front bearing at least in a Saito 56. How difficult is it? Do I need special tools to pull the bearing(s)? I have the replacement bearings and a gasket set already.
#5354
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
The front bearing is the last thing to come out so you may as well change both bearings
You will need a puller device to get the prop hub off. Some metric Hex wrenches will be needed
You will need feeler gauges to set the valves but could get by with the one that came with the engine.
You will need a puller device to get the prop hub off. Some metric Hex wrenches will be needed
You will need feeler gauges to set the valves but could get by with the one that came with the engine.
#5355
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
The engine crankcase is heated in the oven to 275 for 20 min and the back of the crank case is banged against a board to shake the rear bearing out. The crankcase has to be heated again to get the front bearing out but you will need a dowel to knock the front bearing out.
#5357
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I put the rear bearing all the way on the crank then stick the assembly up inside the crankcase. I then put the front bearing on the front of the crank. I pull it together with the prop driver and retainer parts. It helps to have the crank case hot.
Cam timing. The mark on the cam goes straight down when the piston is at top dead center.
Push rods have a little end that goes to the top but you can use this little end to stick in the oil hole of the cam down through the intake lifter bore to hold the cam in the correct position for installation on the crankcase.
The gasket under the cam box is import. Be sure and save the old one when you remove the cam box at disassembly.
Cam timing. The mark on the cam goes straight down when the piston is at top dead center.
Push rods have a little end that goes to the top but you can use this little end to stick in the oil hole of the cam down through the intake lifter bore to hold the cam in the correct position for installation on the crankcase.
The gasket under the cam box is import. Be sure and save the old one when you remove the cam box at disassembly.
#5358
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: mississauga,
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
w8ye.................v.g. explanation. I have never disassembled a 4 stroke/2 stroke, I heard, prior to putting the new bearings back into the crankcase that you can put the bearings into the freezer, the opposite will happen as to heating. This is instead of heating the crankcase again. The bearings should slide in easily.
Any comments to the above ?. I am not an expert, you guys have been doing this for a long time. The removal of the bearing from the crankcase by heating I do know, but the installation I'm not sure.
Charles.
Any comments to the above ?. I am not an expert, you guys have been doing this for a long time. The removal of the bearing from the crankcase by heating I do know, but the installation I'm not sure.
Charles.
#5359
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I've at least tried all the combinations.
A little physics here.... The coefficient of expansion of aluminum is 50% greater than the rate for steel. Therefore.....
It is much more effective to change the temperature of the aluminum than it is the steel.
A little physics here.... The coefficient of expansion of aluminum is 50% greater than the rate for steel. Therefore.....
It is much more effective to change the temperature of the aluminum than it is the steel.
#5360
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
w8ye...................thanks. I knew about the expansion of aluminum and steel, but the freezing part I was not so sure. Is the pulling of the prop hub done prior to the heating process ?.
Charles.
Charles.
#5361
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
YES. You have to get the prop hub out of the way before you begin to remove the crank.
The bearing seperator and puller I have in the picture can be rather expensive in some auto parts stores but are rather cheap at places like Harbor Freight.
Though not usually the case on the 56, sometimes you have to heat up the prop driver as you are pulling on it with the puller to get the thing to snap loose?
Some people use their Monocoat gun to heat up the parts.
Heat transfer is also quicker in aluminum than steel.
The bearing seperator and puller I have in the picture can be rather expensive in some auto parts stores but are rather cheap at places like Harbor Freight.
Though not usually the case on the 56, sometimes you have to heat up the prop driver as you are pulling on it with the puller to get the thing to snap loose?
Some people use their Monocoat gun to heat up the parts.
Heat transfer is also quicker in aluminum than steel.
#5363
My Feedback: (16)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
CHEAP PULLERS
Bearing separator only
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7343
Complete separator - puller set but expensive
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93980
Inexpensive puller that will work with separator
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37714
Combination 2 or 3 jaw universal puller
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45977
Bearing separator only
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=7343
Complete separator - puller set but expensive
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93980
Inexpensive puller that will work with separator
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37714
Combination 2 or 3 jaw universal puller
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45977
#5370
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
In the range between 250 and 300 could we say that is safe to run our engines? What is the most common or the ideal top heating?
#5375
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
w8ye..............thanks for the links, you think the $12.99 one will be more than required. Of all those you've listed, which one do you think will do the job for just removing bearings etc.... , The more expensive one comes with a number of items, are all thoses part pieces required if one is just removing bearings ?. In one of your pictures you show a seperator and puller, I don't see the puller in these kits.