schaubro1

I had a slash that I burned up the lipo. Luckily, I was able to get the battery out of the truck before the truck melted.

Are you using lipos that are in a hard plastic case? That's how mine are and I think that is what saved my truck.
I have burned up lipos without the case and they catch on fire and become almost like a fountain.


Are you using a ESC with a low voltage cutoff that is capable of lipo cutoffs? If not, are you using some sort of cutoff? If not, I would suggest that you get one, to prevent this from happening. This way you don't accidentally run the lipo down too far and catch it on fire.

sorry for your lose,
tim

Bok

What lipo were you running and what are the specs (mah, C rating)? Also what motor were you running? Maybe we can figure out what happened. Sorry for your loss!

boosteda4tq

3S Zippy flight max with ezrun 9t 35a.... i did no more than one pass and then it burned....i ll get some pics of the chassis later but the only part that burned is where the battery goes it cut it perfectly...everything else is good it still worked after the carnage.

dfiantii

I think you might want to make sure that your esc can handle a 3 cell lipo most of them I think do 2cell

Grumpy STI

Has anybody had a problem running the Tamiya tlu-01 light kit? I'm only using 4 of the 8 available slots. Car runs fine when it's not connected, once I connect it the car will not run, but the lights do work. Do I need to run them off a separate power source?

cydog510

quick query: if you have the aluminium front knuckles, which hole do you use to attach the turn buckle that goes to the steering? there are 2 holes and i have been using the one farthest from the chassis, but i have seen others that us the inner hole. any ideas what the difference it? dfiantii perhaps.
thanks.

chrisestt01

When you use the inner hole (closest to the wheel) then you have sharper steering. The car will respond much quicker to your steering input.

dfiantii

The hole you use determines how tight of a turn you will be able to make based on the length of your turnbuckles. If you go with the closer hole on your it means your turnbuckles can be shorter and if you had to adjust toe in or out you would have more to work with in terms of adjusting your turnbuckles. In the end it is just simple preference if you ask me.

xed32

I'm new here. building up a brushless TT-01E with 3 racing FRP chassis and losi Xcelorin 4800kv motor and esc. Are you using the TB-01 35T pinion? Also, my LHSadvised me not to use the Front one way, but to use ball diffs all around due to the car only braking with the rear wheels with the one way, causing it to spin on parking lot surfaces. Noticed that issue? Any heat problems with that gearing? Also, for those with cogging. I did have that before i changed to a 2.4ghz radio and calibrating the esc. So check for that as well.

dfiantii

Welcome to the forum. I have not had any heat issues as of yet. I understand why the LHS would talk about using the diff because you have braking on all four corners. I wanted to have corner speed so I went with the one way. I have not had any tail spin issues with the one way. I have since changed my gearing to 64 pitch and I am now running a 72/55 gearing but you NEED the HPI Gear Adapter to make this work. You have alot of reading ahead of you is all I can say. If you have anymore questions don't hesitate to ask. We are all here to share knowledge on this great starter car. I am going to be making my car into a drifter. This is the track I race/practice at.

www.speedworldraceway.com

xed32

Man. Only found two similar adapters, One for the HPI Sprint 2 and another for the Tamiya TB-03. Found a ton of various 64 pitch Pinions, but Spurs seem to me few and far between...and all around 100T. This has me fascinated though. I dont know how long the 3Racing pinion will last, and i'm sure i'll be looking for a higher top speed once the car is built. My GF bought me the TT-01E and is already pissed that i'v practically built a second car out of aftermarket parts. Might have to buy the Tamiya gear parts and throw them on the original kit and make a second car. I already have a second Xcelorin esc and a spare 4300kv motor too.....On another note, the difference in torque between a true 540 size motor (4800kv), and the 380 in a 540 sized can (4300kv) is tremendous. The 4800kv motor is far more powerful, and screams so loudly.

jaysauce

I just bought a tt-01 off ebay and was wondering what is a good battery to get for it? I'm on a budget not looking to spend more than $50 for a battery and charger. Thanks for the help!!!!

cydog510

intellect 5000mah.
ebay it under $40.

jaysauce

Is that a side by side or stick nimh?

How about a charger and battery for under $50?

AusDrifter18

jeez man you sure are a tight arse for $50... i have 2 new 3800mAh Battery Packs Ill sell you For $39USD pair or check out my site... prices arent fixed as im still playing with it but you can look at the batterys i have

Timbulb

Irecently purchased the Tamiya adjustable upper arms for my TT01 so I can run some camber on my front wheels. I've installed them and now have the camber I wanted, but it made the front wheels have significant toe in (which I definitely don't want).
Irun in a stock class so I'm not able to add any adjustable steering arms or anything.
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dfiantii

I am surprised you were able to add the camber adjusters since your stock. You may have to decrease you camber to get your toe back or look at the arms and see if they are being pushed forward some how not that you have camber. You may have to put something in the camber arm holders to push the arms back.

jaysauce

Is a Venom 6-cell 7.2V 5000mAhNiMH Stick w/ Standard Plug for $47 a good battery and deal? Or should Iget two 3000mAh for $45?
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cydog510

you'll notice a difference in power and speed from the 3000 to the 5000, but are you gonna be wanting to have long runs? just short bash, what set up. there are many variant.

jaysauce

I AM PLANNING TO DRIFT AND WANT LONG RUNS. MY MOTOR IS STOCK AND I GOT BALL BEARINGS, ALUMINUM SHAFT, ALUMINUM SUSPENSION PARTS, AND OIL FILLED SHOCKS. WHAT SHOULD I GO WITH? SORRY FOR THE CAPS....BUTTON IS BROKEN ON THE COMPUTER IM USING=[

cydog510

my vote would be for the double 3000 packs, seeing as your running a silver can. my 2 cents.

jaysauce

How much run time would I get with the 3000 packs? and just for reference how much with the 5000 packs?Are those venoms good batteries?

nbla

Ok, I already have one TT01 that I got online used. During the winter I'm going to build another TT01 from scratch. On the one I already have, the alu parts are red (which I like better), but from what I understand while browsing through different online shops is that the blue parts are much easier to get hold of.

Is there any idea going for red or should I just go blue? I'm planning to change most of the parts including chassis over time, so I suppose that if I can get parts from the same brand it's better

Andyjk

Venom packs are rubbish. Most people will tell you to steer clear of them. I started off using them and some lasted OK and others died fairly quickly. They aren't very consistent. Now that I have used them and know what they are like, I would never buy Venom again.

Lol that sounds really harsh, but there are so many other brands that will out-perform and outlast Venom battery packs.

Andyjk

Yes, the blue aluminium parts are easier to come across but you can find just the same parts in red, if you look hard enough. My TT-01 is done in red aluminium-Just because I thought it would be different to all the blue ones out there (plus red makes it go faster) lol