freshert

Mine is the XB version and I didn't change anything on the motor mount. I've made sure all the bearing are fitting properly and they are.

Bok

To change the propeller shaft you must remove the rear diff, make sure you reinstalled the diff properly

freshert

yup ive made sure its installed properlly, the whole propeller shaft to the diff.

EDIT:btw I've tried taking out the read diff and push the car along the ground but it still makes the noise and the front wheels get locked.

MD6

Make sure that spacer with the locking pin is in correctly.

freshert

Just looked into that and the car still makes the grinding noise and gets stuck, now when i turn the wheels sometimes the spur gear doesnt even touch the pinion gear and doesnt turn the motor. This is stock tamiya gears as well...

EDIT: also just noticed that if i push the motor really hard to the gears it works perfectly pushing the car along the road. But once i let go it doesnt make much contact with the gears.

dfiantii

check your gear mesh on how you have the motor connected to the motor mount. Make sure its on the right setting. You may have it on setting C when it should be on A.

cydog510

pictures help in solving problems.

freshert

I'm not sure what you mean by the gear mesh and the setting C&A.. could you explain in more detail?

Heres some images.






I think you can see that the gears arent close enough together...

Bok

Looks like your pinion gear is worn out..

freshert

Ok then. What would make it wear out so fast? Because my TT-01 is only about a month old. I'll go to my hobby shot and get a new one. Should I put any grease on the new gear to stop it wearing out so fast? I thought a XB tt-01d would last longer than a month before needing a replacement part =/

Timbulb

Ican clearly see your pinion is worn. It looks like some teeth are more worn than others, meaning perhaps the motor wasn't seated properly. Make sure it's firmly in the groove and that you have the motor screwed into the correct holes on the motor mount for the size of pinion you are running. Also make sure all pieces, including the gear cover, are installed before testing or running.

freshert

Ok thanks for that. I'll have to wait till monday before I can look for a pinion at a hobby shop

wyattroa

your pinion is worn down as the others say. I also think your mesh is off with the spur gear. It looks as if the pinion is barely touching the spur gear and when it does its just the teeth hitting the end of the teeth on the spur gear. Did the car move fast at all or did you here your engine winding up but the car only moved a little?
robert

MD6

The picture appears you have the stock spur, 61T. And the motor position appears to be for the stock pinion, 19T. If it's not a 19T pinion then your motor is not in the correct position. Also, when you install the mounted motor make sure the motor mount is completely seated in the chassis. I think someone might have been mentioned already.

freshert

Thanks for the help guys.
The car did move at top speed but it was really really loud. When you put the car right next to your face and max the throttle the sound was ear piercing... When you stop the car and try to change direction the wheels lock unless you full throttle to get it moving again
The pinion is stock 19T and spur is stock 61T. Remember I didn't build this car since it was RTR and I have noticed it get a little bit louder over time.

Just checked a nearby hobby shop's website and a 19T pinion gear costs around $50 what a rip...

Timbulb

That can't be right they're usually about 7 bucks for a bag that comes with two different size pinions.

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/332155.asp

wyattroa

guys just wondering if this is a good car to get just to bash around? i know i would put a brushless system in it, but am not sure if it can handle it. The reason i would like to get one of these it they have my body shell of my real car. my 2008 subaru sti.
robert

Bok

It should handle BL just fine, alot of people here have brushless systems

cydog510

i and quite a few people run brushless. you have to upgrade a few parts, but other than that it handles it just fine.

wyattroa

thanks guys. i just won a brand new one with bearings, oil dampers, steering servo, aluminum drive shaft, and ferrari wheels for $76 on ebay! excited to get my first electric on-road.
robert

Dimitri01

Hi guys,

I usually run nitro cars, but I just got a second hand tt-01. Looks in good condition, but with no upgrades on it (except some neon lights ).

 I am thinking to upgrade the motor system to something more serious. Thinking of

''EZRUN Brushless System Combo B2 w/ 35A ESC & 9T@4300KV 3650M Brushless Motor for 1/12,1/10 on-road racing for experienced drivers''

I have couple of questions.
1) Is my car able to handle the power and the size of the motor, with no other upgrades at the moment?

2)Actually does this upgrade add significant noticable power to my car, compared to the initial motor system? 
Any other better option for the motor and esc (and battery). This costs around 70$, and they ship  to Europe relatively cheap.
 
I would really appreciate helpful respoonses.

MD6

When you up grade to a hotter motor you will need the aluminum shaft, because the stock shaft will often distort with a hotter motor.

Dimitri01

Ok that is a good point. Thanks.Iwill add the aluminum shaft.

But how about the other questios I ask. Anybody who can answer?

wyattroa

Anyone know where i can pick this body up from? http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=58426

I have searched for it, but only seem to find it with the kit alone not by itself.
robert

Dimitri01

Hi guys,

to update: after long search I think I am going for the combo I descibed above. If you have any suggestions please say it.
I need to buy it tomorrow, since I will combine shipping with parts for my nitro car. So any suggestions before then wellcome.


Now there is the issue for batteries. If I go for Lipo I will need specific charger plus electric  battery proptector.
Means a lot of money compared to Nimh.

So again on this topic any suggestion welcome. I am thinking to go for NiMh 7.2, 4000mah which is relativerly cheap and to stay with the origial tamiya charger for now!

does it make sense?  Will I waste the capability of the motor?</p>