timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

you drill pilot holes thru those block and hold them into place. then screw the servo on. the plates shold never come off if you screwed them on watching sands of iwo!!!!!!!!!!!

norm

Tim, I meant the blocks glued in the factory broke loose, ie: the blocks that hold the servo to the hatch itself. The pilot holes were made but the bock broke loose from that 2 inch x 2 inch ply!!!

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

sgoen

My Feedback: (5)

I have seen several differnt measurements for mounting the OS 70 four stroke. What is the correct distance to mount the engine? 5", more or less? Thanks

norm

RE: Servo Hatch block

Thank you Tim,

I looked through the TF GS Corsair manual and still did not see what you mean. I got a good idea of what you mean though. The blocks are inserted through a small square cut off in the ply hatch unlike the hatch of the TF GS Corsair. I will insert a screw in the seem between the block and the ply hatch to secure it and for added strenght, I still will use 2 sided foam tape as a "temp back up" in case of a brake off.

If you are able to "Copy and Paste" the method from the TF booklet, please do so, it will help others figure out what to do in order to prevent that to happen. This thread is intended to this purpose!

Norm.

norm

Sgoen

The correct measurement is 5 inch from the firewall. You will find that the ring is Loose around the cowl. Fit the cowl nice and centered on the engine knob (you will have an angle on the prop only). then with epoxy around the ring and some in the cowl around the ring area let it set. Remove the cowl with the ring then soak the seem of the ring to the cowl with epoxy on both side of the ring and that should hold it there forever. Hurry to fly this thing!! it is a real show. Your OS 70's will be sounding great. Drill six small 3/32 holes around the mouth of your muffler for added sound or go straight pipe, you will not have to cut your cowl, you only have to use pumps +/- 30$ and you only have small holes in your cowl. You get a ticket here for straight Pipes on a Harley, What about in South bend?

Norm.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

ya i see the design wow so the screw would do no good! i say reglue all of them and let them dry before mounting The corsair hatch is different

norm

Re: Servo Hatch

Tim,

I think that a two sided foam tape will also help. Glueing it with thin CA and then with medium CA is a definite. The tape will damper the vibration on those blocks helping them not to break off and still protect the Servos from vivration.

sgoen

My Feedback: (5)

No tickets for straight pipes, unless you just sit a rev the engine.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

yeah its a bad design a block that is drilled through and screwed to the hatc cover will never move. Try to find a place to fly that isnt rough. The retracts are not designed for those conditions.

norm

Tim, Grass Rwy is all we have or the street!

The Main Gears take it well. It is also easy on retracts when the temp is above freezing. we roll the grass and it is pretty smooth. It is the first time I break off retract on a grass rwy. I also fly a giant P-51 mounted on 1/2 inch struts, Rotating retracts (Century jet)on a 60 size Corsair and it takes it well. I must admit that a paved runway is the best...but with this beast you need brakes or it will roll off the runway it must come in with 2 notch of throttle and full flaps to land smoothly and as soft as a cat. An added problem is that today on the 5th flight, the wind veered and was 90 degree with our runway unlike the 8 kt headwind we had for the firts flights this morning. this added to the landing roll speed, definetly not helping the noze gear.

For the noze gear door, I still have not figured out how to remove that broken hinge. and the spring installed on the hinge is going to be hard to duplicate. I think I will install a spring on the lever inside the wheel well to push open the door. I might just drill out the hinge and place a new one w/o a spring.

LKet me know if you think of a better way.

Thanx

krproton

Hi Normand.

I have been reading about your nose gear door hinge woes. I have a solution. First, you'll have to extract that broken hinge. Which will probably mean extracting the other good one as well (but maybe not). I suggest cutting them off, then drilling them out or using a Dremel.

Then, reattach the door to the fuselage with Robart hinges--use epoxy with microballoons. Use pinned hinges that are the same size or close to the size of the original Top Flite spring hinges that were in there. Robart and Great Planes make pinned hinges in a few different sizes.

Then, you'll have to spring-load the door another way. I had to do this on one of the previous B-25s I built for a show as we were out of the spring hinges. You'll have to make a hook from a piece of wire and glue it inside the fuse. Then attach a ball link ball to the nose gear door lever. Connect a rubber band to the hook and the ball link ball on the lever to pull the lever up which will in turn, open the door.

I think I have pictures at work. I'll try to post them tomorrow.

Please stand by.

Tim

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

First flights on my TF B-25.

You can see in one of the photos that there is plenty of power available from those OS .70s.

Looks like Doolittle himself leaving the deck of the Hornet!

Yes, it'll loop and roll.

And will fly with one engine at idle. It will do better with one engine stopped, but I didn't want to do that.

It needed a lot of grass runway to get into the air but after that, plenty of speed at half throttle.

And WOW! Those engines sound great!

norm

Great Pictures Dick. Lovely aircraft is'nt it? Yours look better with the turret, I lost mine last week during the 2nd flight.

Did you find you need rudder input for a coordinated turn? Mine floats like a baloon at 1/2 throttle and need to slowdown to idle full flaps to descend.

If I understand correctly, you simulated engine failures? My heart at this stage would not take a simulated engine failure but intend to do so in the future. How does it behave?

I fly off grass runway as well and broke the noze gear...very little dammages see page 23 last posting.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Yes it did need coordinated rudder but not much.

It needed a LOT of rudder when one engine was brought to idle.

If an engine quit, I'd set up for a landing immediately.

I fly off grass and had no problems at all.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

dick are you using fixed gear. flying season is over here! took my last flight with my 310 e powered and put it all away! too cold. I cant fly in the cold. where is everyone getting the bomb mission markings my sheets didnt have them. just the kill flags and the steamrollers

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

No, Robart retracts. Didn't you look at the pictures? No wheels showing there.

The extra decals came in the updated sheet of graphics

a walk in the park

Dick,

Congrats on the successfull first flight. This B25 is as mild mannered as a twin will ever get. It never bothered me in the least to "pass the transmitter" I knew it was a piece of cake.

Too much fun to put away. On several occations I flew till I was out of fuel.

Again congrats, enjoy!!

gh

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Yep, this is one that I think I'll like flying, especially when the wind calms down!

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

duh

krproton

Hi Normand.

As promised, here are some photos of how I modified the nose gear door to work without the spring hinges. The pics aren't great, but should illusrate what I am trying to show. Make a "hook" from a piece of 2-56 pushrod wire or something similar. Glue the hook inside the fuse to the sheeting and stringer nearest the lever. Connect a ball link ball to the lever--there are two ball link balls on the lever in the photo, but only one is needed. At the time, I didn't know exactly where to position the ball link ball on the lever. In the end, I don't think it's THAT critical. You'll have to make another kind of hook on the end of a piece of wire to use as a tool to loop a small rubber band around the ball link ball and the hook.

I don't think you have to be too precise here. Anything similar to what I have done in the photo should work fine.

Tim

norm

Thank you Tim (Krproton) for the tip.

I will make something similar, this way it will not be critical to adress the same problem if there is a next time with the spring hinge. I had a horseshoe up my @$$ sunday with this little damage, but hey it is part of the hobby as well! I verified the remaining servo harches this evening and noticed 1 other small blocks unglued from one of the flap hatch while removing the servos to secure those blocks and add a 2 sided foam tape between the servo and the ply. I may be a good idea for those who have not flown their model to secure those parts in case of a failure and add it to the beware list. Not forgetting the most important the engines!

I noted the comments of Dick Pettit on the behavior of the plane on one engine idling and the need for added rudder input. I come back again wiith the "gyro" on the rudder. I'm glad I got this helper on board in case of an engine failure. I will not try simulating an engine failure this year since the snow will force the end here soon, , \but if you or Dick are willing to try it, it may be interesting to find out how it behave while an engine out and how it help you bring back the plane. It is a low cost insurance on that nice plane. Nevertheless it is a valuable information to know the plane still fly on one engine to be able to bring it back. The question is while you get an engine failure...which one? the gyro will know.

Thank you again

Let me know.

jiannliang

My Feedback: (17)

Since Tower discontinued OS FS-70 Surpass II, does anyone knows if the new OS FS-70 ultimate w/pump will work? This new FS-70 engine seems carry more hp than the surpass II and with smaller dimentions, it should fit in without problem. Only concern was the smaller crankshaft size 1/4-28 may not fit with the stock spinner hubs.

norm

Do not worry about a smaller shaft size and the spinner hub. Get the Harry Higley spinner hub with the lock nut ( brass), they are as nice and added safety. They look just as good and will not wear off the paint. The OS 70 w/pump is really the way to go. You can even go straight pipe. Had I known they had them w/pump I would have bought them!!! I went with the Saito 82's and have plenty of power. The new OS 70 w/pump is in my opinion the best engine for this plane.

CaptainHook

My Feedback: (80)

I did purchase the FA-82's for mine. My plan is to remove the covering and 1/2 oz. glass to my own scheme. I never finished my Ziroli 118" so this going to be a good fill in for it.