Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
#626
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Anton, simply amazing! I love the hinge systems in the ail and speed break! All the doors for components fabulous..... and so much more!
Are you planning to integrate all those changes on the ARF Plus future A10? Or this needs to be custom order?
Congratulations,
Gonzalo
Northern California
Are you planning to integrate all those changes on the ARF Plus future A10? Or this needs to be custom order?
Congratulations,
Gonzalo
Northern California
#627
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Okay, SM A-10 Guys!
Briefly,
What should I consider, when I build my A-10.
Is it okay to use two JC P-140, or should I go for JC P-100!
Lasse P
Briefly,
What should I consider, when I build my A-10.
Is it okay to use two JC P-140, or should I go for JC P-100!
Lasse P
#628
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Do every single shorcut you can to keep it as light as posible! the entire plane is quite light but all the gear you put in.... it can make it heavy.
Safe every gram you can and at the end you will be quite happy you did.
I love mine!!!
Enjoy,
Gonzalo
Safe every gram you can and at the end you will be quite happy you did.
I love mine!!!
Enjoy,
Gonzalo
#629
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Do the recommended reinforcement of the rear stabilizer. Also try to install all your gear as forward as possible. Those turbines in the rear for sure will make you use a lot of weight in the front.
#630
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: thetford, , UNITED KINGDOM
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RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Hello Lasse,
Yep keep everything forward, I have flown mine on P100rx and now on P140rx , GO WITH P140rx, was nice on 100s but a lot better with 140rx the stores add drag and I don't think the 100s were enough with all stores, no body take an A10 down range with out all the gear !
I also angled my motors up at the back so they exit through angled up pipes ,this helps with the inherent natural down thrust as you feed in throttle with the normal high thrust line, I found by doing this the plane takes off better to.
Yes keep every thing as light as possible, I took out opening canopy, I used a Behotec retract and brake valve on gear and a BVM clipard
Bandit type gear door switch, you know the push button type on front gear door. I used Powerbox srs comp with two rec and Powerbox batts right up front, not nmhs as I think lead right in the front is better , if I was building another I would not put decelerons on either , just more weight,
I put alloy bolts in undercarriage 4mm aircraft grade, never broken them yet, even my pilot is just the head and overalls stuffed with bubble wrap. I use two engine batts and two CAT air traps again these are just behind pilot.
Good Luke you will love it.
Yep keep everything forward, I have flown mine on P100rx and now on P140rx , GO WITH P140rx, was nice on 100s but a lot better with 140rx the stores add drag and I don't think the 100s were enough with all stores, no body take an A10 down range with out all the gear !
I also angled my motors up at the back so they exit through angled up pipes ,this helps with the inherent natural down thrust as you feed in throttle with the normal high thrust line, I found by doing this the plane takes off better to.
Yes keep every thing as light as possible, I took out opening canopy, I used a Behotec retract and brake valve on gear and a BVM clipard
Bandit type gear door switch, you know the push button type on front gear door. I used Powerbox srs comp with two rec and Powerbox batts right up front, not nmhs as I think lead right in the front is better , if I was building another I would not put decelerons on either , just more weight,
I put alloy bolts in undercarriage 4mm aircraft grade, never broken them yet, even my pilot is just the head and overalls stuffed with bubble wrap. I use two engine batts and two CAT air traps again these are just behind pilot.
Good Luke you will love it.
#631
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Good points Mark. I am thinking about skipping the Nav lights to save weight. Regarding your canopy, since yours no longer opens, how is it secured to the fuse?
#632
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Join Date: Apr 2005
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RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Mine still opens but manually only, I still use the 2 small locking rams but have not installed the big opening ram and associated wood work and supports, "more weight" and the jetronic 2 way valve, I simply have a manual 2 way Robart type in the back hatch where I can un lock the canopy and then open by hand, my single air fill valve BVM is in front hatch with all switches , srs screen and jack plug to charge Powerbox batts. Send me your email and ill send you some pics, mine is [email protected]
I do like to keep a model simple. I saw one build where the guy was heat protecting the wiring inside the fus , those engines should never get that hot in an A10 to make it through the nacelles and the centre fus. :-) people just think you can keep adding weight.
I still think my old free flight days. I did the same on my FEJ F14 and it was one of the lightest out there and it flew great, now sold on, do not ever want something so complicated again.
I do like to keep a model simple. I saw one build where the guy was heat protecting the wiring inside the fus , those engines should never get that hot in an A10 to make it through the nacelles and the centre fus. :-) people just think you can keep adding weight.
I still think my old free flight days. I did the same on my FEJ F14 and it was one of the lightest out there and it flew great, now sold on, do not ever want something so complicated again.
#634
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
I tried to install all the batteries in the front of the plane. In my case, the two Fromeco 5200 mah battereis go in the front.
The turbine batteries are installed under the cab. The problem is that there is not much space left under the canopy in order to install more things in there and if you install bigger and heavier turbines, you will yes or yes need to use some lead in the nose.
The turbine batteries are installed under the cab. The problem is that there is not much space left under the canopy in order to install more things in there and if you install bigger and heavier turbines, you will yes or yes need to use some lead in the nose.
#635
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
I managed to get all my batteries in front of the front former, my fuel pumps and valves are visible on the front plate viewed from the forward hatch under the PB Competition. I need only 1 ½ lbs of lead in the nose.
m
m
#636
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
I need it less than a 1 lb of mine by using the Merlin's 140 which are the lightest 140 class turbines.
I used the Grumania exhaust system made for my A10 and the Merlin configuration and no tendancy to go up or down using the throttle at difeeret levels.....or cant tell on mine.
Gonzalo
I used the Grumania exhaust system made for my A10 and the Merlin configuration and no tendancy to go up or down using the throttle at difeeret levels.....or cant tell on mine.
Gonzalo
#637
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Guys,
Thanks!
I'm really grateful for your help
Mark!
I will follow your recommendations, It would be nice if we could meet at Pampa jet meeting this summer.[8D]
Now it's my turn to buy you a beer.
Regards
Lasse Palm
Thanks!
I'm really grateful for your help
Mark!
I will follow your recommendations, It would be nice if we could meet at Pampa jet meeting this summer.[8D]
Now it's my turn to buy you a beer.
Regards
Lasse Palm
#639
#643
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RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Can some body tell me about using the new JC90RXI on the a-10, 24 thrust and weight about the same as the merlins 140, less money and of course less power, but does the a-10 really needs 31 pounds on each engine? I'm not looking for a 3d show stopper, just a good aerobatic scale jet.
#644
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RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Dubd,
No need. There is no difference. On turbine size. It is wel documented that it will fly on 8kg turbine clean. With ordinance and aerobatics i would say a 12kg is minimum requirement. With the size and weight of 14kg to be the same - it will be the wiser choice to use 14kg turbine.
Rgds
Morne
#647
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
I ordered some Tam's pipes because I wasn't terribly excited about the angle or exhaust size on my stock pipes. Tam's pipes came out well and allowed me to get the correct angle while keeping my engine centered in the rails.
#648
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Hi all, I took out the A10 today I had a great flight. But after I landed I found the left set of fan blades blew apart.
Just wondering if if any one else has had this happen.. the fan spun freely and never wobbled.. it must of just not of been able fo handle the rpms
I'm glad I had a fod screen on the engine.... I highly recommend anyone using these fans to use a fod screen. Here is a pic of what happend.
Just wondering if if any one else has had this happen.. the fan spun freely and never wobbled.. it must of just not of been able fo handle the rpms
I'm glad I had a fod screen on the engine.... I highly recommend anyone using these fans to use a fod screen. Here is a pic of what happend.
#649
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Has anybody else used the TAM pipes ? Is there a noticeable difference in flight ?
If the angle in the stock pipe is not correct, can it be corrected instead of changing them ?
If the angle in the stock pipe is not correct, can it be corrected instead of changing them ?
#650
RE: Skymaster 1:6 A10 Build
Hi Airspeed sorry to see what happened. I have had my fans mounted on my A-10 for many, many flights for about a year an a half and never had a problem. Also in the A-10 my customers have I haven't Heard of a problem like this.
Could it be posible you got FOD damage, maybe a small bird or someting else??? Also check the bearing to see if it is ok.
Michel
Could it be posible you got FOD damage, maybe a small bird or someting else??? Also check the bearing to see if it is ok.
Michel