timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

a g23 will fly the staggerwing fine. it flys off the wing . Not enough power to do aerobatics but the full scale didnt either. I want a goliath tarantula with a 12 in leg span. it wouldnt survive the trip . Too bad we cant get them up here. A whip scoprion is nice too but again it wouldnt survive the trip. ive got a lot more done with the flexible gun in the nose and will have more pics tomorrow. Remember the cockpit windows need to be trimmed as they were flush with the top and sides of the fuse.
I found paint that is 99 % close to the monokote for the od model master dunkelgrun RLM 71 (german od) and the grey is light ghost grey fs36375. i airbrused this and its so close i couldnt do better unless KRProton tells us the exact paint they used.

im doing rivets using the flitemetal rosie the riveter product. it dries crystal clear and i matt finish will make them look painted on. yes you can heat ans reshrink painted monokote if you are careful. this plane is done so well i dont have many. if i wasnt going leccy id strip and glass

CaptainHook

My Feedback: (80)

Excellent Bruno... I plan on doing the same with mine over the winter. My plan for now is on doing Betty's Dream. I may change my mind when I see the nose detail. Birds due in Monday.

norm

Hello Tim,

Looks like winter is here for good (8 inchs of snow!). Any tips on how to cut the belly of this B-25 before I cut? I will be reviewing the postings you made at the begining of this thread. You have not mentionned any measurements for the front and back, are you able to give me some.
Thank you,

Normand

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

a sharp zona saw. ouline the area of the bomb bay with masking tape. take your time. the cross cuts are easy but the long cuts do with a exacto blade and run the zona saw in the cuts to get rid of the formers. The doors will hold their shape just sheet the inside and cover in thin evergreen plastic. Then mark the scale holes and use a dremel to open them. my doors are not done so ill take a pic now for you. Hinging is done with flat dubros and actuation will be air cylinders from BVM not cheap but the best way to go

norm

Tim,
1- Thin evergreen plastic, is this a plastic with foam in between, not familiar with it. The Dubro hinges have a # can you please give it to me. For my bomb bay, I noticed the bombs are held sideway on the sidewall is that it? I intend to mount 3 rows of 2 bombs on each side using the ERS from wingspanmodel...just for fun.

For the rest of the scaling I recognize some of the material you used in your bomb bay. Very nice BTW. To actuacte the doors I really whant to try to have a servo 260oz to open and close the bomb bay and make up some mechanism. the noise of the servo will recreate the hydraulic pump noise...I'm retarded I know but I'm having fun! Most of the time the bomb bay will be opened and closed while hanging in the garage so the engine will not burry the noise.

Thanx, Normand

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

that would not be scale. one row on each side. evergreen is sheet styrene no foam. Its great stuff the LHS should carry it. the problem with a servo actuation is it will be in plain sight. pnematics look scale. Ill post more pics today as i have all the bombs with fuses done! im going to finish dremeling the holes in the doors (wife loves that part) ill get measurements to ya today. Download all my pics before yoiu start. you will need to get some flat grey momokote to recover the doors (get a roll of flat od for any repairs while your at it. You have as many planes as me and that has to be a heated garage.The cold will harm your electronics


hinges are no 117 i tried robarts but they wont open and close all the way. three of the large dubros on each side will do it. Add a little oil to the hinge before gluing incase you get glue in them you can work them loose

norm

Tim,

I'll stand by for measurements. I'm not closing the door on pneumatic system, it is definitely the way to go. Thanx for the Hinge # and the evergreen product. The LHS do not carry it but I think the art supply store has it. I'm starting tonight. The garage has to be heated I spend some complete evenings admiring my models and figuring out how I can add another one!!! Grey, green and green monokote already stocked.

Thanx,

Normand

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

look in the train section it comes in sheets of varying thickness! do you have a model train shop go and ask for evergreen plastic sheet. my wife is holding a sheet of the styrene and thats her just woke up she doesnt want the pic on here but oh well. doors are 13.25 inches long. the front cut is 15 inched back from the front of the fuse. Make sure the front cut lines up with the LE of the wing as that is the scale location.
more cockpit photos and 3 crew members. i need 3 cats but the dogs dont want them in the crew LOL

flycast

Hi Normand
Just admiring your "hanger" great collection of warbirds. The way to go Warbirds live.

Ray

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

remember guys the cockpit glass and frame was flush with the sides of the fuse. careful trimming will allow you to do this. You can make the top removable using sig 090 bolts and nuts. they look scale and are what ive used (over 5000) on my corsair. get them thru the lhs 4.95 for 12 of them. im working on seats and harness assembly today its an all day job

iflyf4u1a

My Feedback: (1)

Let's see over 5000 screws... 5000 screws divided by 12 per pack=416.67 packages. Call it 417 packages. That would be 417 packages times $4.95 per package to get hmmmm ... [X(]$2064.15 just for screws!!!!! Don't let the wife find out!

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

oh she knows! i cut them off just to show the slott heads, the corsair was welded together but had thousands of screws in the wing and forward fuse. Look at the tf gs corsair build and look for my pics. they are all there. i have m ore to add than paint and markings. she already flew in primer. I will have a solo 3 blade on her and the marines Dream scheme


in the b-25 they are functional and hold the canopy and bombadier sections on. Looks just like the real thing

p39

My Feedback: (5)

Timothy- tell me you know of Micro Fasteners......

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

yup the real bolt gives you a more scale look as it is real. i drill a shallow conical pit and add a drop of jet the place the screw. Now on the B-25 she had raised rivets so ill be ordeing rosie the riveter from flite metal. People say you cant reheat painted monokote BALONEY you need to do it carefully as to not melt or burn the paint. i have a p-47 monokoted and scaled out and it looks as good as a glassed bird. If i wasnt going leccy i would have pulled off the covering and glass but it adds weight. They say it doesnt but that is not true. using .75oz glass and epoxy finishing resin makes a real strong surface but it will add a pound or two.


i have a h-9 b-25 no comparison in the detail and will make her a j short nose cannon model. then i only need one set of controls to fabricate

flyingchef

My Feedback: (93)

Did little more progress on my TFB25, the nose was removed and 6oz glass cloth was applied over it, remember that it is a plug to mold the actual fiberglass nose section. I also worked on the bomb bay and used 3 layers of laminated 1/64 ply wich follow nicely the contour of the Bomb bay section. After the lamination was left to dry for couple of days I cleaned the edges and used it as the patern to cut the sheeting on the fuselage, once the balsa wood removed I glued the laminated plywood section into place and will be cleaning the edges in the morning.

flyingchef

My Feedback: (93)

I went on and opened the top turret to add more details, I laminated some 1/64 ply around a jar to form a disk to be inserted in the opening.

TrueScale

My Feedback: (47)

Timothy,

The B25 had raised rivets only on the front half of the fuse to the middle of the wing. The wing had raised rivets
on the leading edge and some aux. panels. I think the wingtips were screws.

Chuck

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

the bottom of the wing was full of access panels with screws so ill have some fun. chef great work on the nose and turret i did the same thing with the turret! It doesnt weaken anything and i can work on details. the J and H models and some ds had the forward turret and it was in the pilots compartment so all i need to do is get a nose steering servo down there and can put a scale interior back there. Remeber to trim the cockpit glass its to big and should fit flush. OUTSTANDING WORK

im doing that type of nose on the h-9 25 please tell me how you did that. looks like foam . I was going to vacuform over a balsa plug

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

functional bay doors with full bay detail right???? some of the scale guys on rcsb are making fun of this arf. I put their attention to this thread and they are not so nasty anymore. LETS GET THESE AS SCALE AS POSSIBLE!


WHAT WING IS IN FRONT OF THE B-25 LOKS LIKE A P-51. YOU HAVE A LOACH! IS IT FLYABLE, WHAT MECHANICS ARE INSIDE THE FUSE

alans

Well I am just about done, promised the wife it would be out of the house this weekend and its now in the gararge !

She weighs 20lb and half a strip of lead in the nose done the trick, I do have the twin sync, on board glow drivers with batteries as well.

Would of liked a little more time playing with the retracts as they sometimes stick in the up position, no air leaks at all. I am using the metal arms and have tried changing the spring positions with no joy. I have checked the door linkages and made sure the pushrods are not binding. Anyone else had this problem ? suggestions welcome.
She will probably not fly now until the spring unless we get great weather, i want to turn her upside down and play with the retracts until they are perfect.
Anyway some pictures.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

nice job. my wife lets me build upstairs tell her that and dont let her control your hobby. If you do it will be all over. take a firm stand 50% OF THE HOUSE IS YOURS

krproton

Refer to your instruction manual. Go to page 16, step 9. You probably need to trim your levers as shown in the sketch. If the fit is too tight between the strut and the lever, this will cause them to stick when the gear are retracted.

Meesh

My Feedback: (135)

Alan,

Regarding the wheels sticking in the up position, check to make sure that the wheels are not bottoming in the wheel well. I noticed this when I had the same problem on my TF 310. If there is resistance at the end of the stroke it tends to lock the trunnion in position and the cylinder can't release it. Get it stuck again and apply a little upwards pressure (try to push it further into the well) and see if the trunnion releases.

Bob

alans

Thanks for your advice, i will try both your suggestions. The nose leg is fine, if i just tap the nacelle slightly the mains spring in to life and come down.
Thanks will try when i can get it out in the garden, spent 165 hrs putting this together. If you said the twin sync added 15 hrs at most its still around 150 hrs.
The cessna 310 did not take as long, but its worth it!

krproton

Another way to troubleshoot sticking gear is to disconnect the door pushrods from the lever. This will take the doors and pushrods out of the equation. If the gear still sticks, you know it has nothing to do with the doors. The only part left would be the lever (or the wheel too I suppose). So remove the lever and see if the gear still sticks. If it does, must be something with the wheel or in the retract unit itself. Keep removing and reinstalling components until you identify what is sticking. All this is also described in the manual.

And another thing...don't forget to test the gear with the wing upright--not just upside-down!

Let us know what you find.