Alex48

Hi Craig

Thanks for your input. I was going to put them on a two stage switch like the flaps so we can have half brake and full or whatever combination he wants, I'll experiment and see what works best...

Out of interest what stages of flight did you use the slats, was it a combination with the flaps or for maneuverability? The one on the model is fixed but can be made to work although we don't see a benefit to it at the moment. I think Al said he flew a MIBO version in the US that had working slats but noticed no difference to his.

Would be cool to fly an A10 Certainly more fun than what I fly in the day job

Cheers, Alex

Alex48

The gear has been dismantled, etch primed then sprayed a light grey. Stalled a little bit while I wait for some decals from Ralle at Tailormade. Once these are here I can start weathering it, a coat of clear and finally get it back in the model.

CraigG

My Feedback: (40)

Alex,

The inboard slats were an add-on when it was discovered that turbulent air separation coming off the top of the wing, at high angle-of-attack, was causing engine compressor stalls. Notice that the slats are only inboard and in-line with the engines. On the full scale, they extend automatically at high AOA to smooth out the airflow over the wing and into the engines.

They are not used in conjunction with the flaps for takeoff or landing. They were also not used for maneuverability and in fact, they reduce maneuverability because they cause noticible drag when extended. We hated it when they popped out during air combat maneuvering (i.e. "dog fighting") because of the extra drag.

I chose to make them fixed on my MIBO A-10 since they would normally only operate at high AOA in flight and not be seen extended for taxi, takeoff or landing....plus I hated the darn things for the reason mentioned.

gonzalom

My Feedback: (1)

My new SM A-10 is at home! love it LOVE IT! The quality is a step up compare to my SM large Viper plane. The details on panel lines and rivets are very very nice and the landing gear is a piece of art!
The only thing SM needs to step up and a lot are the quality and details of the cockpits with the instrument panel..... The rest is very good. I am temp to completely RP the entire cockpit using our
3D Printer.

I do have to finished my Habu 32 turbine before I start the A-10 build. I will be collaborating to Alex on this build and probably adding some additional components that I will creating with 3D Printing in ABS plastic.

Oh by the way..... the SM A10 fits in my X5!!!!

Enjoy the pictures,

Gonzalo
Northern California

Alex48

I agree........its one of the best SM models I've built to date, shame about the cockpit but it gives the desired effect. Looking forward to your build. I'm intrigued about these extra parts your going to make. What do you have in mind? I'm in the process of doing the dimensions for new pipes and a scale exhaust shroud. The only reason I'm keen on new pipes is because the Merlin 140 is so compact compared to a P80-160 we can move the turbine much further forward necessitating new pipes.

A picture of the 140s and a P80 for comparison.

Cheers, Alex

Alex48

Thanks for hat Craig, glad I didn't bother with the working slats then.

Cheers, Alex

gonzalom

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Alex,

I will get the Habu 32 first with the P20 and then I will start the A10 project. I might do the following parts on the 3D printer:
Special plastic tray between the main tanks to hold shut off valves, JetCat ECU panel and some other electronics as long they are not too heavy. The tray will have lots of opening so I can see the level of fuel.
I might redo on the 3D Printer the entire cockpit as a direct replacement of SM… this one will be top notch.
I will 3D print with hi res the lights with transparent lenses for the front landing gear.
I know once I start, there will be other pieces to make.

Talking about the exhaust pipes for the turbines, there absolutely no instructions. How you attached them? using glue? …. I am not fan to glue pipes so I might add some brackets or redesign the entire exhaust with Tam who lives about 1 hour from my home.

Alex I would love to hear more about the new pipes and a scale exhaust shroud you are planning?

Thank you so much for posting all these pictures!

Regards,
Gonzalo

Alex48

No worries Gonzalo, I enjoy posting as it allows us all to bounce ideas off each other. Having lots of sets of eyes on things will hopefully catch anything I've done wrong and it allows customers to check progress on their new toys...

There should be a round former supplied with the kit. Attach the bell mouth to the single walled side of the pipe (the bit with the largest diameter). Slide the pipe through the former and the back of it through the aft former in the nacelle which will require opening a little. The pipes are angled, the apex on the front end of the pipe should be marked with an 'X' to aid alignment although I found mine a few degrees off with the back of the nacelle. Get the correct distance from the turbine and bolt the loose round former down and secure the pipe with silicone. The problem I have is that the Merlins are so compact they could move forward a few more inchs which would help the CG. I'm going to have to wait for the fans to arrive to check how far forward I can move it but it should be substantial. As for the new pipes and shroud I'm just providing the measurements and a few ideas these will get shipped off to Germany where the talent can get to work... and as you can see the back end looks naff so some scale shrouds will really make a difference. I suspect whatever we come up with will be available through Ali.

Have you got the Habu's yet in the States? Waiting for my P20 Habu combo to arrive Should be here in a few weeks.....

gonzalom

My Feedback: (1)

Alex,

You are cleaver than me! Now those pipes make sense! I haven't seen the round formers.... but I still haven't dig too much into the boxes. If you guys pull off the shrouds I want one!!!!

About the Habu 32.... I got the P-20 and waiting from HH to deliver the kit as well as the turbine conversion kit from my good friend Ali we will see who delivers faster!

Best,

Gonzalo

snobird

My Feedback: (36)

Hi all, can someone please tell me the capacity of the fuel tanks in the 10. i understand two tanks come with the plane .(one for each turbine ?)

Alex48

4 liters each.

snobird

My Feedback: (36)

Thanks Alex48, enjoying your build out.

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Alex,

Did you get all the plylons/ordnance from Skymaster too? Do they produce them? Any pics?

Cheers,
Mark

Alex48

Hi Mark

The pylons and free wheeling fans are in the post to me. I dont think they make the ordnance yet...When I get the bits I'll post some pictures for you.

It definitely needs loads of bits dangling off it IMO Is your Mibo version going to be ready for Bickley?

Cheers, Alex

scottkieper

My Feedback: (10)

hi alex. well working on the a10 and when install the ventral fins the holes are way off when install bolts and by the way you need bolts the 1s in the kit are too short. on your builds do you use the aux channel on your turbine, and if you do can you hook aux on a y lead thanks scott

Alex48

Hi Scott

My ventral fins went on a treat, I just used some M3 screws I had lying around that were a suitable length although I did have to pack them with washers to refine it.

What turbines are you using? I'm presuming they are JetCats... You can 'Y' lead the aux channel together although I've never done it as I always run them single channel mainly because I run out of channels and that's the first thing to go.

If you want to do it that way and would like to start each turbine separately put one ECU in 'sequence' mode and the other in 'Throttle Max' mode. Start using the throttle max first then switch to the START/RUN position and fire up the other in sequence mode.

In single channel I use 'Immediate' mode then 'sequence' to start separately

HTH

Cheers

snobird

My Feedback: (36)

Alex, with my Jetcats, I was thinking an easy way to start each engine would be to start them with the ECU, which allows for manual starts ? a good practice to start each engine seperatly ? ( sorry this will be my first twin turbine plane)

Alex48

No worries, If you do as I suggested you can start each in turn anyway. But if you start with the GSU connected what you suggest will work fine but it would be easier to start from the tx IMO and just monitor the GSU if you use it. Experiment and see what suits you as we all do things differently...

scottkieper

My Feedback: (10)

here are some weekend pics

scottkieper

My Feedback: (10)

more

gonzalom

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Scott,

Nice build! I love how you paint the interiors. Did you have to mask masive amount to airbrush or did you used another method.

Scott as I am a big fan of JetCats what turbines are you planning to use?

Hopefully I will start my build very soon for my SM A10.

Best,

Gonzalo

CraigG

My Feedback: (40)

The advantage of using the GSU to start the engines is the ability to control them separately during the start sequence and after if necessary. This is particularly helpful if one engine does not start successfully and you can shut it down without shutting down the other. You will need a method to disconnect/reconnect the ECU battery to reset the shutdown engine for another start attempt.

If your engines are starting reliably, then any of the methods suggested will work just fine.

FYI, be sure your JetCat's are completely separated electrically. If they are cross grounded anywhere, it can cause ECU problems.

Craig

Alex48

Good point Craig, certainly be worth doing it that way for the first few starts until confidence is gained in the set up etc...

Alex48

So then, onto the fuselage....

Firstly the tanks........This is how I do all my tank setups and have never had an issue of any kind obviously there's more than one way to skin a cat but this is my way

The tanks are long, If I was molding them I would have installed a baffle similar in design to the Ultra bandit set up. They aren't as long as those tanks but getting that way....Anyway I'm not concerned enough to do anything about it but it would of been nice...

I use Airpower Aluminum surrounds with a BVM tank fitting kit, BVM poly tubing in the tank and a BVM heavy duty clunk. When using the BVM tank tubing leave a good half inch as it does grow a little after a few months.

Alex48

All the gear has been painted and assembled, unfortunately the decals got lost in the post so Ralle has kindly offered to send another set free of charge. Tailormade decals really do a give a great service, thanks Ralle!

What this does mean is I'm unable to install the gear permanently so I've stalled a little bit on the wings until the gear is weathered and clearcoated...