RICKSTUBBZ

There was a pile of stuff I planned on doing to day and none of it was working on planes. But all of it was to be outside. Since Mother Nature decided to water my yard nearly all day I changed plan and worked on the Uproars. Tomorrow will be all about flying though. (As long as the weather dudes are right????)[>:]

Hey Guys, talking about landing gear. I’ll be using the stock stuff with some really skinny 3” tires.

Dead eyes, good advice, I do the same thing with mounting the rudder control horn at the area where the tail wheel wire is embedded into the rudder. I am pretty sure I will convert this thing to a pull/pull set up on the rudder with two control rods and one servo for the elevators.

I was looking at details today and I will have to do something with the bottom front of the plane to get a little more room for the 10oz tank that I will be sticking in these. It will fit, just barely. But the problem is - I will mount the engines at around 135° from strait up so the muffler will be located exactly under the plane. To do this I need the tank to be a little lower. Anyway, I’ll add maybe about 1/4” to the bottom of the front section and lower the gear mount to match. Between that and the 3” tires I will gain a little bit more room for the 13” props I intend to swing. Mathematically (measuring from plans) the 13” prop will work with everything stock with maybe a little grass stain on the prop tips.

Well, staying consistent with what I have been posting on this build here are some more pictures of the progress.

1- My “jig” for building the 6 elevators.
2- I glue up two pieces of the 1/4 X1/2 that already have the triangle gussets glued to them as I did in a earlier post with rudder parts. Also lined up and glued the elevator "tip".
3- Two parts of the jig slide out of the way so I can remove what I have glued.
4- At this point I drill a vent hole in the elevator spar so the counterbalance can vent in covering process.
5- At this point I finish fit the leading edge of the counter balance and glue them on.
6- Got them all done to this point. Confirm everything is the same size.
7- Then I finished off all the parts. Just like in the rudders and such I vented the cross braces in the elevator.
8- These are the hinges I am going to use. Gave all the parts a rough sand and finished fitting the hinges.
9- Three tails ready to go.

mclina

Awesome tails. You are doing a great job. I could only fit a 6 ounce tank in my Dazzler. I can't wait to see how you squeeze a 10 in there.

Looking good.

Daddyo57

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DM your looking good there!!! RICKSTUBBZ you are an animal at building !!! [sm=bananahead.gif] I agree whole heartedly with you mclina, the stock gear is more than adequate... I must have 75 flights on my Uproar and I do at least one whole flight of just touch and goes everytime I fly her !!!!! the stock gear is fine as is and the plywood bracing as recomended is fine as well. I am just just finishing up my second Uproar and I am ready to start sanding and shaping. I extended the rudder a half inch and the elevator too and I made the ailerons like the Dazzler, minor changes really but everything else box stock. The Uproar is one of the nicest airplanes to land as I have ever flown, it makes me look good.[8D] talked to a guy who built a Fun-51 (Tower kit similar to Uproar) into a twin, still want to do the Uproar twin as I am sure it would be a blast to fly. Looking forward to doing a snazzy Monokote scheme on my new Uproar.

Daddyo57

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I was able to litteraly squeeze a Sullivan Flex 8 oz in my Uproar and I bought a 10 oz today thinking I could get it in the new Uproar, the problem with the Sullivan 10 oz (slant) is they are too wide in the front but actually shorter than the 8oz!! if it were 1/4 in narrower at front, it would go in!!! I am giving serious thought to heating up the tank and forming it to fit, I have done this before and it works pretty well. I prefer the slant types as I just run the fuel lines up through the hatch rather than make a big hole in the firewall. I tilted my GMS .47 about 20 degrees to the left to put the engine weight more centered and the added benefit is the exhaust almost goes straight up and the airplane doesnt get too messy. I get a good 12-15 min flight with the 8 OZ tank but would like a bit more.

Gray Beard

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As I recall I was able to press fit a Dubro 8oz tank in mine, not 100% sure but I think that was the one I used. It was all that was ever needed. I also made up top hatches over the tank and used clear plastic from CD boxes so I had a window so I could see how much fuel I had left. I only needed to fill up once for most fun fly events.

Dead eyes

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I've been going thru my Hanger getting ready for this build. I'm trying to decide what trim scheme I want to go with. To me the planning stage is the most fun part of the build.

DMehalko

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Agreed, figuring out how you want it to come out is always fun and im the same way. I was flying a month or so ago (full scale) when a very very nice Rv-4 taxied past me after landing, that day I ordered a great plans RV-4 kit

RICKSTUBBZ

This week is going to be a hit and miss type deal as to whether or not I get any work done on my Uproars.

I am with you guys on the fun of planning a build. As simple as this thing is I did do a little bit of that already but in the structural and equipment department. That is my favorite part of a build (design and redesign). I have not and probably won’t put so much in to the way these look as far as color scheme. I’ll be keeping it simple in consideration of time. Plus like I mentioned before I will be using up some colors that I really don’t want but already have and need to use.

While the topic is on fuel tanks I thought I would post a little info as to what and why I picked what I have. I wanted to have 10oz of fuel to go in these planes for a hopefully decent flight time. So I started out checking the sizes of all the different tanks that were reasonably available to me. I picked this Sullivan (pictured below) “RST style tank - S428 10 Ounce 2-1/2" tall X 2-1/8" wide X 4-3/8" long” solely based on its size. Usually I would prefer the slant type. In this case the dimension just didn’t work for me.

It requires a couple or three modifications in order to fit in length. The height and width are all right except the bubble at the top of the tank would touch the top hatch. Easy enough to carve a little relief. But, since I plan to drop the bottom of the fuse about 1/4”from the landing gear forward that will not be a problem.

I will end up cutting a circle in the firewall that resembles what you see on a lot of the cheap ARF’s. I hate doing this but I will need enough clearance for the brass tubing and fuel line because the brass tubing will be going through the fire wall. Yes it will be resealed with silicon once finished. F2 will have to be cut out on the inside a little bigger to allow for part of the tank to be inside of it. I will also flatten out the leading edge of the wing for the width of the tank. What I mean by that is I will not have the 5/16” X 1 3/16” leading edge on the wing for the 2 1/2” in the middle of the wing. Yes the 1/16” X 1” sub leading edge will be there and the 1/8” leading edge joiner will be there. I will probably add another piece of balsa (as in the chunk from the leading edge stock) behind the plywood joiner to help with stiffening it up. I will try to detail most of this as I get to that part of the build.

Daddyo57

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RICKSTUBBS, I agree you need the 10oz with the .51 engine for sure and I am curious to see the pics! One thing you are probably allready aware of if you are building from Tower kits, I used the sheeting supplied with the kit for the wings and let me say, it is quite possibly the worst Balsa I have ever seen! I very much regret using it now as it has caused much rework and frustration on my wing.... When I am finished with the wing tomorrow, it will be useable but in the future if I see Balsa of that poor quality I will toss it, it is not even suitable for the sheer panels. Other than that, the Balsa and all other wood is just fine. I am very pleased with everything else on this build. I am all done structurally other than attaching the wing to the fuselage etc. I may have done more planning on this build than any other kit I have built, I usually just dive right in and change things as I see fit or beef up here and there to suite my taste. I am planning a cool covering job based on a few ideas I have "borrowed" lately. I am enjoying your build thread and the other guys doing their Uproars here along with myself.[8D]

RICKSTUBBZ

Happy Thanksgiving guys. A day late - but it ain’t no dollar short...

I managed to make it back to the uproars for a little while this evening.

I’ll keep the basic shape of the stock ailerons except I’ll be adding 1” to the chord as you can see in picture 1. In picture 2 I have set things up for production of six ailerons as close to the same as I can get them. I have all the parts for the first one cut and fit with out glue in picture 3. I’ll use those parts to rough cut everything for the other five ailerons. In picture 4 you can see that I will be moving the aileron servo’s out roughly one bay. I have “X”ed out the rib that I will move and drawn in where I will put it.

DMehalko

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Those ailerons ar huge! I will be interested on how it flies, im sure it will drastically slow the aircraft down with massive control input. Looks real good!

I have been slacking on my uproar, going to try and finish it up this weekend though!!

mclina

Nice looking aileron. If I remember correctly, the stock servo location allowed me to reach the RX without an extension. Will you need to use servo extensions to reach your aileron servos?

I flew my Dazzler over the weekend, with throws increased for 3D for the first time. I found the elevator and rudder severely lacking. I think your tail modifications will be perfect. I am going to copy them if I ever build another, or when mine needs a rebuild.

RICKSTUBBZ

With the servos I plan on using, I was going to have to add wire (an extension) any way. I will actually cut/splice/and solder wire instead of using an extension on these. Particularly since the wing will be non-removable.

As big as this aileron mod may look, it is still proportionately smaller than the airplane I am using as a pattern, to keep my ideas in check with something that works.

Remember I plan to prop these planes for slower flight with a lot of thrust. So, the Idea with the bigger ailerons is more control with less deflection at slower speeds. That is the theory anyway.

At the same time I will admit I have mitered all the control surface hinge lines to handle 50° of deflection just to see where all of this will take us. The three of us that will fly these have completely different flying disciplines and it will be interesting to see what we get out of these planes.

At the very minimum they will be a blast.

Going to try and get more building done today.

Later,
Rick

Dead eyes

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What prop do you plan on using ?

DMehalko

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probably the apc 12.25x3.75, those are sweet

RICKSTUBBZ

I’ll keep the 12.25X3.75 APC props in mind. But what I plan to use after getting the engines broke in is the APC 13X4 wide props. I have tested these on my engine stand (with scale) and they pulled around 7lbs of static thrust with one of my other Super Tigre 51’s.

I’ve posted a few pics of the finished ailerons. Not much to write about that I have not wrote already. I pretty much did all the same stuff as I did when building the tail feathers. It sure feels good to have them done I can guarantee it.

Dead eyes

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I didnt get to start on my UProar today, putting up Christmas lights...Thanks, I used to go with 10x6 or 11x5.

RICKSTUBBZ

If I have learned nothing else here of late, I have learned that my memory sometimes ain’t so good[].

Anyway, while at the flying field today I was going through my notes and this picture is of what I have on the prop test with a Super Tigre 51.

I have no idea where or what I was thinking 7lbs of thrust. But also it was a Zinger 13X4 I tested and not an APC wide.[X(]

RICKSTUBBZ

I managed to get all three rib sets punched out and most if not all of the spar channels cleaned up. I weighed all the ribs together to get an overall weight, 275 grams, to compare after I have punched some holes in all the ribs a little bit later.

DMehalko

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Nice work! How did you get those ribs cut so nicely?

Anyways, got the tail covered, and the elevator hinged, doing clear control surfaces again (did this on the one i built years ago and liked it)

All thats left is bevel the ailerons and hing them along with the rudder, then install my gear

RICKSTUBBZ

DM,
The clear covering on your control surfaces adds a nice touch to the looks. I noticed that in the pictures you posted of the older one as well. Man, I’m not sure what to say on the ribs. They were die cut pretty clean.

After a week of being out of pocket I was able to get back to working on my Uproar project. I have to say this current mod has me questioning my sanity.

In the pictures it is a little hard to see the patterns on the paper. But, they are there. I made a little fixture using a piece of 3/8 birch plywood I had laying around and one of the drop pieces from the die cut ribs.

Using a forstner bit I set up to drill one hole at a time by clamping the fixture to my drill press table. I drill all the ribs and for that hole and then adjust for the next hole and again cycle through all the ribs until done.

My camera is giving me fits and I still have to clean all the ribs up from punching holes. So, I will get some more pictures soon.

mclina

I admire your determination, but I think you may be a little bit crazy on this one. Seems like a lot of work to shave a couple of grams. I also think that drilling one large hole, maybe 3/4", in the center of all those little holes would have removed as much weight in one stroke.

I can't wait to see what your ribs weigh after the drilling. My guess is that you are removing about 5% of the rib, so you will lose about 14 grams total. Divide that by three airplanes, and it's about 5 grams per plane. That works out to about 0.17 ounces per plane.

I am enjoying these builds. Keep up the great work.


Edit: My mistake. I was looking at the holes you have already drilled, not your pattern for ALL of the holes you intend to drill. You may be up closer to 25% of the rib material. That would be more like 70 grams total, or 23 grams (0.8 ounces) per plane. Still a bit crazy but at least you are having fun.

Good luck

glowboy

I'm watching your progress also. I'm ordering a pair of these also, It will be my first kit build.. They have a little discount for 2 kits. I hate to copy you too much but I like the clear blue on the wings. I will go on the light weight side with an EVO 36. I know that these need a lot of tail weight with 46-52 engines so it should balance out and be a fuel mizer. Only thing I'm worried about is my covering skills. I have none. Keep up the good work!

Gray Beard

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You will have after building two of these. They aren't very hard to cover and they will be a great learning tool for you. They also don't require a lot of engine so you should be good there too.

Daddyo57

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Looking good guys!!! I have quietly been building my second Uproar with the mods I mentioned, BTW no tail weight needed with the GMS.47. I really enjoy building these great airplanes except for my troubles with the provided wing sheeting...[:@] my fault for using it. I am going to paint about 3/4 of the canopy black and leave the front half clear so my Felix the Cat pilot will be visible. I did a version of the colorful Splat scheme as I really like it on the Uproar. I could fly her this weekend but not sure the canopy will be dry... thanks for the motivation guys! BTW I do ok with Monokote but not an expert by any stretch, but I cut 5/16 to 3/8 wide strips to do the area where the wing joins the fuselage, this way you can manipulate it very well with heat to cover that area so you dont have to be quite so precise on the bigger pieces on the fuseage and wings. It is a little rougher covering these one piece airplanes and I get tired of banging it on my bench and everything else around me it seems (need a third hand). I also was reading with interest in another thread where the guys are having problems with Monokote brand covering, I did have some problems with the white for sure it seems but I havent done a covering job in awhile either.