Welcome to Club SAITO !
#7476
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Ernie Misner
EJ, don't turn the engine backwards. In doing that, it will be blowing out through the carb, like it blows out through the exhaust when turning forewards.
Ernie
EJ, don't turn the engine backwards. In doing that, it will be blowing out through the carb, like it blows out through the exhaust when turning forewards.
Ernie
#7477
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Just make sure the crankshaft is at top dead center, and use a single edge razor blade against the bottom of the cam cover, and between the teeth, to hold the cam gear (with the dot straight down) in place while setting the cam cover down. Also, I find it to be easier if I stick the gasket to the cam cover first with a little oil. When the crankshaft is at top dead center, the dot on the cam gear should be straight down.
#7478
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi everyone!
I am 25 and live in Columbus, Ohio. I started flying when I was 10 and flew until I was 15 when I crashed a 30% Carden Extra 300. About 3 months ago I purchased 2 engines (SAITO of course!) and I need some help with my 1.25a. I would like to join club Saito so let me know if having a 1.25 and a 1.50 can qualify me =) Anyway I have my 1.25a bolted on a Funtana X 100 with Hitec 625's all around. After a gallon of fuel I am turning a safe 9250 on a 16x4w APC prop using 10% Byron 4-cycle fuel. My funtana is not pulling out well at all now. I can't learn 3-D if I cant pull out. What is the best fuel for this engine? I am tempted to go to 30% Helimax with 18% oil content but it says "Lubrication Package by Klotz" and does not say how it is blended. Is this a good fuel for this engine? I would imagine I should get much more performance going from 10% to 30%. Can someone give me some RPM numbers I should expect with 10-30% fuel with that prop? Its a great engine. I ran 3 tanks through it nice and slow to break it in. Also is 16X4W the best prop for hover and straight up out of it? I can pull up and go pretty far up....but if I let off the throttle the plane will not pull out. Any feedback is appreciated! Sorry so long but I have a lot of questions. Thanks for taking the time to read.
Sean Block
I am 25 and live in Columbus, Ohio. I started flying when I was 10 and flew until I was 15 when I crashed a 30% Carden Extra 300. About 3 months ago I purchased 2 engines (SAITO of course!) and I need some help with my 1.25a. I would like to join club Saito so let me know if having a 1.25 and a 1.50 can qualify me =) Anyway I have my 1.25a bolted on a Funtana X 100 with Hitec 625's all around. After a gallon of fuel I am turning a safe 9250 on a 16x4w APC prop using 10% Byron 4-cycle fuel. My funtana is not pulling out well at all now. I can't learn 3-D if I cant pull out. What is the best fuel for this engine? I am tempted to go to 30% Helimax with 18% oil content but it says "Lubrication Package by Klotz" and does not say how it is blended. Is this a good fuel for this engine? I would imagine I should get much more performance going from 10% to 30%. Can someone give me some RPM numbers I should expect with 10-30% fuel with that prop? Its a great engine. I ran 3 tanks through it nice and slow to break it in. Also is 16X4W the best prop for hover and straight up out of it? I can pull up and go pretty far up....but if I let off the throttle the plane will not pull out. Any feedback is appreciated! Sorry so long but I have a lot of questions. Thanks for taking the time to read.
Sean Block
#7480
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
RC Specialties reminded me of my days at A&P school..
As a 2nd phase project in Mr. Hamm's "primary engines" class we had to make a feeler guage for one of the big radial engines...it was .187" thick! (I remember being astonished at the amount of clearance required when cold )
That's right, 3/16" valve lash cold, so that when the engine got up to normal running temp. the valves would be at their proper clearances.
IIRC it was for the P&W R-1830 but I would have to go into the attic and drag out my notebooks to be sure...
As a 2nd phase project in Mr. Hamm's "primary engines" class we had to make a feeler guage for one of the big radial engines...it was .187" thick! (I remember being astonished at the amount of clearance required when cold )
That's right, 3/16" valve lash cold, so that when the engine got up to normal running temp. the valves would be at their proper clearances.
IIRC it was for the P&W R-1830 but I would have to go into the attic and drag out my notebooks to be sure...
#7481
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I always understood that the aluminum case expands more than the steel components, which lifts the rocker arm assembly, increasing the valve clearance?????
#7482
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
It seems like it would be a simple task to take a Saito and check the valve lash cold, then run it up to normal operating temp and check it again.
#7483
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
rlmcnii is right, you can not have a check valve in a pressure line without a regulator, it just ends up building up too much pressure and forces it out the point of least resistant (ie carb or vent)
#7485
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I use a regulator because it allows me to put the fuel tank over the CG on my planes, and also keeps the mixture from changing during flight as the tank empties.
ORIGINAL: freeonthree
I've been a mechanic for 35 years, and been flyin RC since 2002, and I don't see the point in any of this pressure hose needing a check valve, regulator, or being routed to a clunk instead of the vent anyway.
I've been a mechanic for 35 years, and been flyin RC since 2002, and I don't see the point in any of this pressure hose needing a check valve, regulator, or being routed to a clunk instead of the vent anyway.
#7487
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi Folks! Is anyone reading this forum because I have several questions regarding a Saito 125 that I'm installing in a G.P. P6E Hawk. Yeah, the ARF. I kinda need advise on how big to cut the cooling holes in the cowel, how long should I break-in the motor before goin' aviatin' with this new model. Any advise would be very much appreciated. Thanx! Dave Bryer
#7488
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
After reading comments about plastic spinners I think I should purchase a metal one. I have a 72 that is not yet mounted on a Sig 4*40. There is no cowl to match so any recommendations as far as spinner size?
#7490
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Proptop,
I too, learned this in A&P school a long time ago. Alot of valves have been adjusted since then. As in the big engines they should be adjusted to specifications.
Jim
I too, learned this in A&P school a long time ago. Alot of valves have been adjusted since then. As in the big engines they should be adjusted to specifications.
Jim
#7491
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Join Date: Dec 2001
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Here is the new home for my Saito 1.00, I learned the other day that the Airplane Factory, (maker of the Kombat Airmadillo line), had been completely destroyed by Katrina. I ordered up the last one Bobby had at Apex Hobbies. I'll finish it tomorrow. The tail pipe on the TurboHeader is strictly for looks. My wife says that I can mess up a work better than anybody. Hmmmm.
#7492
My Feedback: (8)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: RC Specialties
Proptop,
I too, learned this in A&P school a long time ago. Alot of valves have been adjusted since then. As in the big engines they should be adjusted to specifications.
Jim
Proptop,
I too, learned this in A&P school a long time ago. Alot of valves have been adjusted since then. As in the big engines they should be adjusted to specifications.
Jim
[sm=thumbup.gif]
I think Bill (Robison ) mentioned that not all Saitos had the quietening ramps...and the ones that do, need to have a little more lash...like closer to the big end of the range.
Question is...which ones can you run "tight" and which ones do you need to run looser?
When I adjust valves on a model engine, I don't usually use a feeler guage...I just go by feel with my fingertips...and adjust them to have just a barely perceptable amount of clearance.
If you clean all the oil off from between the valve tip and the end of the rocker by sliding a piece of paper towel through, then adjust the rockers by placing your index finger on one side and your middle finger on the other side of the rocker fulcrum, all you ned to do is wiggle the rocker until you just barely feel some clearance.
Out of curiosity, testing with a feeler guage afterwards, I have found that the actual measurement usually is right about .002"
#7494
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
>>> I always understood that the aluminum case expands more than the steel components, which lifts the rocker arm assembly, increasing the valve clearance????? >>>
Keep in mind that some bits of information relate more to larger, gasoline engines. There are some differences with the small methanol burning 4-strokes like the max temperature of the exhaust valve, tiny length of the pushrods, aluminum cylinder, amount of cooling oil going past, etc. It is possible in theory at least for the little glow jobs to actually gain clearance at temperature as compared to the gas engines that always loose clearance.
Ernie
Keep in mind that some bits of information relate more to larger, gasoline engines. There are some differences with the small methanol burning 4-strokes like the max temperature of the exhaust valve, tiny length of the pushrods, aluminum cylinder, amount of cooling oil going past, etc. It is possible in theory at least for the little glow jobs to actually gain clearance at temperature as compared to the gas engines that always loose clearance.
Ernie
#7495
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
In the Feeler Guage thread there is some good information that has come around once again about NOT setting the valves clearance with the piston at TDC. (find the point where the valve is fully open, and then turn the prop one full turn from that point.... then set the clearance) This will put the lifter fully on the heel of the cam or 180 degrees opposite on the cam from the high poing on the lobe.
Up until now I had always been using the TDC method, just an old habit I guess. I am curious, how many of you are using the TDC method and how many use this "180 opposite" method, or other methods?
Thanks,
Ernie
Up until now I had always been using the TDC method, just an old habit I guess. I am curious, how many of you are using the TDC method and how many use this "180 opposite" method, or other methods?
Thanks,
Ernie
#7497
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: proptop
Roger that
[sm=thumbup.gif]
I think Bill (Robison ) mentioned that not all Saitos had the quietening ramps...and the ones that do, need to have a little more lash...like closer to the big end of the range.
Question is...which ones can you run "tight" and which ones do you need to run looser?
When I adjust valves on a model engine, I don't usually use a feeler guage...I just go by feel with my fingertips...and adjust them to have just a barely perceptable amount of clearance.
If you clean all the oil off from between the valve tip and the end of the rocker by sliding a piece of paper towel through, then adjust the rockers by placing your index finger on one side and your middle finger on the other side of the rocker fulcrum, all you ned to do is wiggle the rocker until you just barely feel some clearance.
Out of curiosity, testing with a feeler guage afterwards, I have found that the actual measurement usually is right about .002"
ORIGINAL: RC Specialties
Proptop,
I too, learned this in A&P school a long time ago. Alot of valves have been adjusted since then. As in the big engines they should be adjusted to specifications.
Jim
Proptop,
I too, learned this in A&P school a long time ago. Alot of valves have been adjusted since then. As in the big engines they should be adjusted to specifications.
Jim
[sm=thumbup.gif]
I think Bill (Robison ) mentioned that not all Saitos had the quietening ramps...and the ones that do, need to have a little more lash...like closer to the big end of the range.
Question is...which ones can you run "tight" and which ones do you need to run looser?
When I adjust valves on a model engine, I don't usually use a feeler guage...I just go by feel with my fingertips...and adjust them to have just a barely perceptable amount of clearance.
If you clean all the oil off from between the valve tip and the end of the rocker by sliding a piece of paper towel through, then adjust the rockers by placing your index finger on one side and your middle finger on the other side of the rocker fulcrum, all you ned to do is wiggle the rocker until you just barely feel some clearance.
Out of curiosity, testing with a feeler guage afterwards, I have found that the actual measurement usually is right about .002"
--------------
That is how I adjust my model engine valves too. No need for worrying with feeler gauges once your fingers have learned the "feel" of correct lash.
Ed Cregger
#7498
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi all, I have a FA-62A comming from Horizon and I ordered a Velocity Stack. My question is what did you use to seal the gap between the stack and the carb ? If it's a O-Ring where did you purchase it. Thank you for any info on this subject.
Jim R
Jim R
#7500
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I would still like to know an approximate size for a spinner on a Saito 72. It does not have to match up to anything I just want to make sure it’s large enough for a 13x6 prop. Also, what is the shat size for the 72?
Thanks.
Thanks.