Top RC Models MkIV full Composite Spitfire-a game changer
#776
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Just East of Cleveland Ohio
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Check out https://ecalc.ch/motorcalc.php
I used a 160 motor (245kv) with 18x10 prop on 10s and had good power.
I ran my servos with a dual battery redundant powerboard from HK, like this one, but the higher end black version which they no longer stock...(https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...ucts_analytics)
Then ran the retract controller off a separate battery.
Good luck!
I used a 160 motor (245kv) with 18x10 prop on 10s and had good power.
I ran my servos with a dual battery redundant powerboard from HK, like this one, but the higher end black version which they no longer stock...(https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...ucts_analytics)
Then ran the retract controller off a separate battery.
Good luck!
#777
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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Burnaby,
BC, CANADA
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I am using a Dualsky GA4000 (180kv) motor, CC160HV esc swinging a 21x12 prop. 2 x ChinaHobbyLine 6s 70c 5000mah, 2 x 2s 1300mah battery for receiver with redundancy and 2s 1300mah for the Robart retracts controller in the front. I still had to add +/- 3lb lead in the front to achieve 130mm CG. AUW is about 23lb.
I suggest you to have separate batteries for receiver and retracts. I lost my first one 4 years ago during the 2nd flight take off. I used only 2 x 2s as one battery with redundancy to power the receiver and retracts at the same time. But I lost signal for the time when the retracts were going up. Actually the same thing happened for the maiden flight but I saved it. I tried to find out what happened after landing but could not find anything wrong. So I took off for the second flight. But I could not save it this time. I could not figure out what was the reason for the failure. The only common thing I could think of between these two flights was I lost signal during the retracts were going up. Signal came back after the retracts finished going up.
I bought the second one and same set up. This one I have separate batteries to power the receiver and retracts separately. Since then everything is fine. Very nice flying plane.
I suggest you to have separate batteries for receiver and retracts. I lost my first one 4 years ago during the 2nd flight take off. I used only 2 x 2s as one battery with redundancy to power the receiver and retracts at the same time. But I lost signal for the time when the retracts were going up. Actually the same thing happened for the maiden flight but I saved it. I tried to find out what happened after landing but could not find anything wrong. So I took off for the second flight. But I could not save it this time. I could not figure out what was the reason for the failure. The only common thing I could think of between these two flights was I lost signal during the retracts were going up. Signal came back after the retracts finished going up.
I bought the second one and same set up. This one I have separate batteries to power the receiver and retracts separately. Since then everything is fine. Very nice flying plane.
Last edited by paphman; 02-16-2022 at 06:55 PM.
#778
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Join Date: Feb 2022
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Thanks everyone for the excellent detail. It’s unanimous I’ll need 2 x 2S for servos/receiver and retracts. The prop/motor calculator recommended by @Dsa44 is pretty amazing. It will take some time to get through and well worth it for now and in the future. I already have the 190KV motor so I expect the calculator will lead me to a 19x10 or 20x10 with some loss of ground clearance.
#780
Senior Member
Just a heads up if you do buy them. Treat the eflite programmer like its made of eggshells if its an eflg-1000 (look at back of it) If it is, e-flite has discontinued it so getting a replacement will be impossible.
The good news: eflite retracts use a standard wiring set up, two pin power and ground. Aftermarket controllers work. Example would be the Xicoy LG15 which is the controller and programmer in one unit but similar ones would work.
Best thing: avoid E-flite until they market a replacement for the eflg-1000.
#781
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TopRC Spitfire Version 1
I have a TopRC version 1 Spitfire that I will never get to. I have offered it up for sale. The last guy I offered it to tells me that the version 1 had too many structural failures. I have not read this anywhere, so can someone here tell me what structural failures he was talking about?Thanks for your input.
#782
My Feedback: (2)
I have a TopRC version 1 Spitfire that I will never get to. I have offered it up for sale. The last guy I offered it to tells me that the version 1 had too many structural failures. I have not read this anywhere, so can someone here tell me what structural failures he was talking about?Thanks for your input.
#783
Senior Member
Thanks everyone for the excellent detail. It’s unanimous I’ll need 2 x 2S for servos/receiver and retracts. The prop/motor calculator recommended by @Dsa44 is pretty amazing. It will take some time to get through and well worth it for now and in the future. I already have the 190KV motor so I expect the calculator will lead me to a 19x10 or 20x10 with some loss of ground clearance.
#785
Anyone. Can you provide a photo of the plans, nose section so I can figure which motor to use. Like to do a Saito 300 twin FA, just not sure it will fit. If a photo I can print and scale up to fit. Need photo and height of bulkhead.
thanks!
thanks!
#786
Whole manual available here. https://www.toprcmodel-usa.com/spitfire.html
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thefastfred (11-21-2023)
#788
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: riverview,
FL
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Hello Nice plane. I was just given one by an old friend that had to get out of the hobby. It was a nice gift for sure. The only issue is it came with no instruction manual. I did print the on on line however it does not have the control srface throws. Did your instructions have them?
#789
My Feedback: (43)
Just received my Spitfire today. First let me say I'm very impressed with the shipping container! Designed like a wood shipping crate only out of very heavy duty corrugated stock.
I was going to go gas but after reading this thread and seeing the pictures I just can't bring myself to hack up the cowl and make all the necessary mods.
Going electric with a Spektrum Avian 8085-160Kv motor, Castle Creations PHX Edge 160HVF with Cooling Fan ESC, 12S batteries.
Scale exhaust on order. Scale instrument panel and cockpit accessories next.
My RAF pilot is standing by waiting for sortie instructions!
I was going to go gas but after reading this thread and seeing the pictures I just can't bring myself to hack up the cowl and make all the necessary mods.
Going electric with a Spektrum Avian 8085-160Kv motor, Castle Creations PHX Edge 160HVF with Cooling Fan ESC, 12S batteries.
Scale exhaust on order. Scale instrument panel and cockpit accessories next.
My RAF pilot is standing by waiting for sortie instructions!
#791
My Feedback: (43)
Yes, I plan on sharing the build. Thanks for asking! Waiting on all the bits and pieces to arrive before getting started.
Back in the 90's I built a Mk IX Spitfire done up in Johnnie Johnson's paint scheme like this one. It was scratch built, covered in fiberglass, with rivets, panel lines and lots of scale details.
On the maiden flight there was only one other guy flying; a club member practicing IMAC maneuvers. I was flying the pattern and he did a big loop and came down and cut my tail off.
Both planes augered in! Been wanting another one ever since but scratch building is very time consuming.