dragnse7en

I couldn't find em in 24mm years ago, otherwise I would've gotten them Oh well, they still work as long as you sand the end of the ball cup flat and just enough to clear the tire. This is with 0mm offset rims. Have you tried adding spacers in front of the wheel hex? My car came w/ two shims for ea wheel, 1.5mm total I think. Otherwise a 3mm offset wheel should clear the links.

gundermanm

mine didn't, but i sometimes use a pair of 24mm tires, so i'm not too worried about it

dragnse7en

Right now I use Tamiya's Type B3 24mm tires on their medium narrow dish wheels, and I also use Jaco blue dot 24mm pre-mounted tires and Sweep Racing QTS32 pre-mounted 24mm tires.

gundermanm

k. do u think there is much of an advantage of different treads, as long as u use the same compound?

dragnse7en

I think there's a difference between treads. Some let the car slide more than others. The more tread, the more traction on asphalt. Just like a real car

xxCARLOSxx

So a few weeks back, I upgraded to lipo on my ifs-r and I stopped using it because I noticed there was some problem with the movement of the rear differential. I bought ball diff grease and anti-wear grease thinking that it just needed some cleaning and grease replacement. I had some free time today and decided to take a look at the rear pulley, and as it turns out, its been completely destroyed where the balls go... Then I thought that the power from the lipo might have caused this.

Now I obviously have to buy a replacement, but what can I adjust to avoid this in the future?

Edit: I just noticed that the diff joints are slightly melted on the part that touches the metal, should I change those too?

dragnse7en

I would highly recommend switching to an RSpec gear diff, or better yet, Tamiya's TA05 gear diff. Since your IFS-R has a 37T pulley, either gear diff will work and should be bulletproof against a BL motor, as long as either one is assembled correctly.

My Exotek TA05 ver.IIR with two of Tamiya's TA05 gear diffs; 10,000 cSt Team Associated diff fluid in the front gear diff, and the supplied 1,000 weight Tamiya silicone damper oil for the rear.



They work fantastic I painted a blue dot on the front diff case and a red dot for the rear diff case, so that I can tell them apart if I take the car apart. (Red for rear and blue for bumper).

DriftingFast

What is the difference between the TA05 v2 chassis kit vs a normal TA05 v2 kit?

dragnse7en

Do you mean the R version? The R version comes with about 36 TRF parts, and has CVDs, sway bars, and full body alloy shocks, and a lot more goodies. The plain jane TA05 V2 doesn't come with anything like that at all. But The R version does not come with a motor, body or tires or foam inserts for the tires.

xxCARLOSxx

Can you send me links or the part numbers for both gear diffs please? I don't wanna end up buying the wrong one lol

dragnse7en

Sure thing - no problem

Spec R Gear Diff 37T (for TA05) part # SPR009-TA
web site:
www.spec-r.com/default/index.php

TQ Racing here in the states:
www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp

Tamiya TA05 Gear Differential Unit # 54312
www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php

Tower Hobbies has some in stock:
www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P

The Tamiya's gear diff comes with 1000 weight silicone oil, but you'll have to buy oil seperately for the Spec R diff, as it doesn't include any.

gundermanm

My brother has problems with his Losi XXX-S...some teeth on the belt are getting ripped off, and i assumed it is because the motor takes TONS of force to move (without power). so i assumed it was to much strain. am i right?</p>

dragnse7en

Sounds to me like something is binding up the drivetrain and/ or tranny somewhere. Ask him to take the pinion off, and roll the wheels. If they do not spin free for a bit and then stop, then there's something binding or dragging against the tranny and/ or drivetrain.

If so, then:

1. Check both belts for the proper tension, listed in his manual.

If that's not the problem, then:

2. He's going to have to take both belts off, and test the front and rear drivetrains to see if they roll properly.

3. Also, ask him to check to see if the spur gear screws aren't sticking out and rubbing into anything.

Good luck

gundermanm

k, though it's a 4wd single belt car, and the other thing is that it goes through 1or 2 tight pulleys so that may have something to do with it....

dragnse7en

Yeah - that's like the belt tension is too tight. When you push your finger down on the belt, it should have about a finger's width of deflection.

gundermanm

k. also, do u know if Brushless ESCs usually work with motors from different companies? My Xcelorin ESC just died and I'm looking towards a replacement. A lot of people talk about castle, so i don't really know... Thnx.

dragnse7en

They should work just fine. I've used LRP Vector X-12 17.5T motors with my MMPs with no problems. If your old motor is sensored, get a new sensored motor, and if it sensorless, get a new sensorless one.

gundermanm

alright, so do you have some suggestions? (sensorless) I'm also on a budget, so keep that in mind thnx

dragnse7en

Well, if you're on a budget, then I could suggest this:

www.hobbypartz.com/ta****r1rcca.html

gundermanm

I don't know... my motor is (to my knowledge...hopefully) fine....my ESC refuses to start, however. I'd like a good, but not extreemely expensive ESC that supports Nimh and lipo power. Also have good programability.... i was thinking mabye a sidewinder (besides the fact that it doesnt support NIMH)....so i dont know....

dragnse7en

D'oh! My bad! I thought you were talking about the motor! Okay.

The sidewinder from CC is good for a sportsman's esc.

Try out this link:

www.hobbypartz.com/elspcoforrcc.html

Look for the Hobbywing EZ Run 35A esc - you can't beat that price

If you run a hotter motor, look for the 60A esc or look at the specs for the 45A esc. That site has wicked awesome prices on lipos too - I didn't check that part of the site, a few months ago they sold out they're so cheap!

gundermanm

On the 60A E-Z run ESC, it talks about 'suitable motors', and says up to 5.5 turns.... though I know there is no actual conversion, would my 7500kv motor probably work?

dragnse7en

Your 7500Kv motor is right around the same mark as the max that esc will take. If you do get it, watch your gearing and temperatures

gundermanm

k. planning on getting it

gundermanm

I ended up getting a Mamba Max..... the Instructions say specifically not to cut my motor wires. I must do either that or unsolder them...do u know anything about that?</p>