Welcome to Club SAITO !
#8476
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
overbuild.......................regarding your right angle adapter for your Saito......I was at my local hobby store this morning, and I noticed that they had some Saito's right angle adapters, not sure what size though, but if I'm not mistaking it was either for the Saito 120 or Saito 125, plus for other Saito's engine sizes. Check their web site, www.hobbyhobby.com ( this store is located in Ontario Canada), and check their web site or get in touch with them. Unless you have already ordered one from Horizon Hobby.
Hope this will be of some help to you.
Charles.
Hope this will be of some help to you.
Charles.
#8478
My Feedback: (16)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Send it to Clarence Lee. He will put a bushing in it?
Lee, Clarence F.
10112 Woodward Ave
Sunland, CA 91040-3342
(818) 352-3766
(818) 353-7356
[email protected]
Lee, Clarence F.
10112 Woodward Ave
Sunland, CA 91040-3342
(818) 352-3766
(818) 353-7356
[email protected]
#8479
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
There is only one velocity stack for the medium Saito's. One size fits all . . .
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI50GK93
There is only one velocity stack for the medium Saito's. One size fits all . . .
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI50GK93
Will this fit a Saito 100? can't seem to find info if it will or not anywhere???
#8483
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hello, I'm having a hard time getting my Saito 125A to run right. I have no problem with the top end I just can't get it to idle reliably? Does anyone know how many turns in or out I should start my low idle screw at? The manual tells you where to start at for the high ldle screw but not the low? thanks Wayne
#8485
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
You know. You think you have it one day, and the next day you realize you're just not there yet. Had the Citabria out again this weekend. I still don't have the 91 dialed in right. I want to run this by the experts here before I start turning screws.
With the onboard glow. I get a really nice, low idle that will last until the tank runs dry. I have my landing gear switch on the radio set up to bump the rpms up high enough to get me off the onboard glow, but still maintain a decent idle. When I am flying, I flip this switch so I am not using the glow in the air. When I am setup for final, I'll flip the switch just as I would to drop the gear, but in this case to drop the idle. The problem I am having still relates to transitioning off the onboard glow. If I jump on the throttle from the low idle with glow, the engine will likely die or pause enough to start running backwards. If I flip the gear switch, the engine will generally transition off the glow to the higher rpm without problem. From there I can jump on the throttle every time without the engine stalling. It belches a lot of oily smoke as it transitions to high rpms, but it doesn't hesitate.
Is the engine stalling when I advance the throttle rapidly when coming off the glow due to too much fuel or too little fuel? This is the only plane I have with onboard glow. The onboard glow is mechanical and engages based on the servo position. I would set the glow to stay on longer, but then it would be on much of the time while I am flying, and I would end up with a dead glow battery after a couple of flights.
Ken
With the onboard glow. I get a really nice, low idle that will last until the tank runs dry. I have my landing gear switch on the radio set up to bump the rpms up high enough to get me off the onboard glow, but still maintain a decent idle. When I am flying, I flip this switch so I am not using the glow in the air. When I am setup for final, I'll flip the switch just as I would to drop the gear, but in this case to drop the idle. The problem I am having still relates to transitioning off the onboard glow. If I jump on the throttle from the low idle with glow, the engine will likely die or pause enough to start running backwards. If I flip the gear switch, the engine will generally transition off the glow to the higher rpm without problem. From there I can jump on the throttle every time without the engine stalling. It belches a lot of oily smoke as it transitions to high rpms, but it doesn't hesitate.
Is the engine stalling when I advance the throttle rapidly when coming off the glow due to too much fuel or too little fuel? This is the only plane I have with onboard glow. The onboard glow is mechanical and engages based on the servo position. I would set the glow to stay on longer, but then it would be on much of the time while I am flying, and I would end up with a dead glow battery after a couple of flights.
Ken
ORIGINAL: iflyfisher
Got the Saito .91 in the Citabria working again. I had adjusted the valve clearance, fueled up with fresh Omega 15%, and the blasted engine kept dying coming off the glow. I tweaked the low speed idle, and still couldn't get it working, so I decided to change glow plugs. When I pop the head lock off my plug, I saw I had one of those stupid McCoy plugs in there. I usually only run OS Type F. I don't know why that plug was in there. I know I ran out of Type F plugs at one point last year, and must have used one of the McCoys I had sitting around. I felt like kicking myself. I swapped out the plug with a new Type F, and wallah! Problem gone. I think I had my low end a little lean as there was a slight delay in the rpm drop to idle from full power. I opened the low speed idle about a 1/4 turn, reset the high speed idle, and the idle down pause seemed to have gone, and the plane rev'd up just great from idle.
Go figger! Thanks for all your input.
Ken
Got the Saito .91 in the Citabria working again. I had adjusted the valve clearance, fueled up with fresh Omega 15%, and the blasted engine kept dying coming off the glow. I tweaked the low speed idle, and still couldn't get it working, so I decided to change glow plugs. When I pop the head lock off my plug, I saw I had one of those stupid McCoy plugs in there. I usually only run OS Type F. I don't know why that plug was in there. I know I ran out of Type F plugs at one point last year, and must have used one of the McCoys I had sitting around. I felt like kicking myself. I swapped out the plug with a new Type F, and wallah! Problem gone. I think I had my low end a little lean as there was a slight delay in the rpm drop to idle from full power. I opened the low speed idle about a 1/4 turn, reset the high speed idle, and the idle down pause seemed to have gone, and the plane rev'd up just great from idle.
Go figger! Thanks for all your input.
Ken
#8486
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Sounds to me like you just have your idle set a bit too low. Did you have a particular reason for using onboard glow?
ORIGINAL: iflyfisher
You know. You think you have it one day, and the next day you realize you're just not there yet. Had the Citabria out again this weekend. I still don't have the 91 dialed in right. I want to run this by the experts here before I start turning screws.
With the onboard glow. I get a really nice, low idle that will last until the tank runs dry. I have my landing gear switch on the radio set up to bump the rpms up high enough to get me off the onboard glow, but still maintain a decent idle. When I am flying, I flip this switch so I am not using the glow in the air. When I am setup for final, I'll flip the switch just as I would to drop the gear, but in this case to drop the idle. The problem I am having still relates to transitioning off the onboard glow. If I jump on the throttle from the low idle with glow, the engine will likely die or pause enough to start running backwards. If I flip the gear switch, the engine will generally transition off the glow to the higher rpm without problem. From there I can jump on the throttle every time without the engine stalling. It belches a lot of oily smoke as it transitions to high rpms, but it doesn't hesitate.
Is the engine stalling when I advance the throttle rapidly when coming off the glow due to too much fuel or too little fuel? This is the only plane I have with onboard glow. The onboard glow is mechanical and engages based on the servo position. I would set the glow to stay on longer, but then it would be on much of the time while I am flying, and I would end up with a dead glow battery after a couple of flights.
Ken
You know. You think you have it one day, and the next day you realize you're just not there yet. Had the Citabria out again this weekend. I still don't have the 91 dialed in right. I want to run this by the experts here before I start turning screws.
With the onboard glow. I get a really nice, low idle that will last until the tank runs dry. I have my landing gear switch on the radio set up to bump the rpms up high enough to get me off the onboard glow, but still maintain a decent idle. When I am flying, I flip this switch so I am not using the glow in the air. When I am setup for final, I'll flip the switch just as I would to drop the gear, but in this case to drop the idle. The problem I am having still relates to transitioning off the onboard glow. If I jump on the throttle from the low idle with glow, the engine will likely die or pause enough to start running backwards. If I flip the gear switch, the engine will generally transition off the glow to the higher rpm without problem. From there I can jump on the throttle every time without the engine stalling. It belches a lot of oily smoke as it transitions to high rpms, but it doesn't hesitate.
Is the engine stalling when I advance the throttle rapidly when coming off the glow due to too much fuel or too little fuel? This is the only plane I have with onboard glow. The onboard glow is mechanical and engages based on the servo position. I would set the glow to stay on longer, but then it would be on much of the time while I am flying, and I would end up with a dead glow battery after a couple of flights.
Ken
ORIGINAL: iflyfisher
Got the Saito .91 in the Citabria working again. I had adjusted the valve clearance, fueled up with fresh Omega 15%, and the blasted engine kept dying coming off the glow. I tweaked the low speed idle, and still couldn't get it working, so I decided to change glow plugs. When I pop the head lock off my plug, I saw I had one of those stupid McCoy plugs in there. I usually only run OS Type F. I don't know why that plug was in there. I know I ran out of Type F plugs at one point last year, and must have used one of the McCoys I had sitting around. I felt like kicking myself. I swapped out the plug with a new Type F, and wallah! Problem gone. I think I had my low end a little lean as there was a slight delay in the rpm drop to idle from full power. I opened the low speed idle about a 1/4 turn, reset the high speed idle, and the idle down pause seemed to have gone, and the plane rev'd up just great from idle.
Go figger! Thanks for all your input.
Ken
Got the Saito .91 in the Citabria working again. I had adjusted the valve clearance, fueled up with fresh Omega 15%, and the blasted engine kept dying coming off the glow. I tweaked the low speed idle, and still couldn't get it working, so I decided to change glow plugs. When I pop the head lock off my plug, I saw I had one of those stupid McCoy plugs in there. I usually only run OS Type F. I don't know why that plug was in there. I know I ran out of Type F plugs at one point last year, and must have used one of the McCoys I had sitting around. I felt like kicking myself. I swapped out the plug with a new Type F, and wallah! Problem gone. I think I had my low end a little lean as there was a slight delay in the rpm drop to idle from full power. I opened the low speed idle about a 1/4 turn, reset the high speed idle, and the idle down pause seemed to have gone, and the plane rev'd up just great from idle.
Go figger! Thanks for all your input.
Ken
#8487
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
It sounds to me like you are rich but it is really irrelevant. What you need to do is tune the engine to run without the glow. You should not and do not need onboard glow for an engine that is tuned right. First turn the LS in or out a 1/2 turn. You do this to make a big enough change to determine where you are. Start with the glow on and let it idle. If it will not idle and all reverse the adjustment plus 1/2 turn in the opposite direction. With it idling hammer the throttle. If it dies it is to lean. If it stumbles and then accelerates it is rich. Now tune it a quarter turn at a time until you got to far. Use the same procedure each time; hammer the throttle with the glow on. After you get it real close doing this take the glow off and repeat the process. Use 1/8 turn adjustments to get if fine tuned. This is no cake walk and will take time and many re-starts to get is right.
Anybody can do the HS needle only a few can get the LS right!
Anybody can do the HS needle only a few can get the LS right!
#8488
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
The only reason I have onboard glow is that the engine is largely enclosed in the cowl. I can't get at the glow plug with the cowl on. Rather than install a remote glow, I set up an onboard glow. I only want the on board glow to start the engine. After that, the intent is to flip my gear switch and raise the idle to the point it will idle nice and stable without the help of the glow. I have a .91S in my Aeromaster, which idles just fine without the glow, and frankly this one idles well without the glow. I just need it for starting. I could raise my rpms while using the glow, but as I don't want to use the glow while flying, I'd have to set my no-glow idle even higher.
I'll do a little more tweaking with the LS using your suggestions Kimhoff.
Thanks.
I'll do a little more tweaking with the LS using your suggestions Kimhoff.
Thanks.
#8489
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
The APC prop I bought for my Saito FA-100 is so thin (where the shaft goes through the prop) that the prop nut can't be tightened down because it runs out of threads. In other words, the non threaded part of the engine shaft is about 1/2 inch long but the prop is only about 3/8 inches thick. I need an aluminium washer about 1/4 inch thick I guess. But, it would have to be a flat washer or spacer, not the tapered kind I see on Tower because I have a Higley spinner nut that would go in the end of the shaft so I can use my electric starter. Any ideas? It is a 15 X 4W prop.
#8490
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Yep, that is a problem with the wide apc props. Most just use a couple of aluminum washers to make up the difference. Or, they switch to Xoar props. The 15x6 is a good 3D prop for the 100.
#8491
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Most just use a couple of aluminum washers to make up the difference.
I suppose those washers need to be just the right size (centered hole) to avoid vibration -- where might I find those?
#8493
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Send it to Clarence Lee. He will put a bushing in it?
Lee, Clarence F.
10112 Woodward Ave
Sunland, CA 91040-3342
(818) 352-3766
(818) 353-7356
[email protected]
Send it to Clarence Lee. He will put a bushing in it?
Lee, Clarence F.
10112 Woodward Ave
Sunland, CA 91040-3342
(818) 352-3766
(818) 353-7356
[email protected]
Has anyone else had this installed? Do you have any pictures and does it reinforce this area?
#8495
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi Folks, Reading this promted me to ask you guys a question of my own. My inverted Saito 150 runs pretty good. However when I am running at full throttle then suddenly switch to low, the engine will slow down nearly shutting off for about 2 seconds, then revs up to my set idle I trimmed it to. The result is having to set my trim to a higher idle (pretty high) in order to have that unwanted slowdown not reach the point of shutting off. In my last attempt to remedy this, I added an onbord glow driver which helped in getting a lower idle without shut down, but the problem is still there. Anyone experience something similar? I am running 30% coolpower heli fuel with an 18x6.
#8496
My Feedback: (16)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I've noticed some of my Saito's will tend to do this and I only assume that the mixture is suddenly too lean at idle.
If you are more slow about reducing the throttle you will not experience this phenomena.
These engines will also eventually quit when you wing the throttle repeatedly.
Under other mixture combinations, a Saito will not slow all the way down to idle initially but will slowly go down to idle after you have reduced the throttle suddenly.
If you are more slow about reducing the throttle you will not experience this phenomena.
These engines will also eventually quit when you wing the throttle repeatedly.
Under other mixture combinations, a Saito will not slow all the way down to idle initially but will slowly go down to idle after you have reduced the throttle suddenly.
#8497
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi
Guys, I really love the Saito thread and all the great recommendations. I do have a question, does anyone have an old Saito 120 they want to sell. I have a saito 120 that I want to rebuild and I am looking for a engine to use for parts... you can email me at [email protected].
Thanks
Henry
Guys, I really love the Saito thread and all the great recommendations. I do have a question, does anyone have an old Saito 120 they want to sell. I have a saito 120 that I want to rebuild and I am looking for a engine to use for parts... you can email me at [email protected].
Thanks
Henry
#8498
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: edberg
Has anyone else had this installed? Do you have any pictures and does it reinforce this area?
Has anyone else had this installed? Do you have any pictures and does it reinforce this area?
#8499
My Feedback: (16)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Henry, be careful about which Saito 120 You get. There are several different ones over the years.
The biggest change is between the 120 and the 120S.
But there are even two different S models. There's the ones with the tubular intakes and the ones with the compression nut fastening on a cast intake manifold.
The old 120 had several changes in the carbs over the years.
Some combinations will interchange. And then there are some conditional interchanges.
Which one do you have?
The biggest change is between the 120 and the 120S.
But there are even two different S models. There's the ones with the tubular intakes and the ones with the compression nut fastening on a cast intake manifold.
The old 120 had several changes in the carbs over the years.
Some combinations will interchange. And then there are some conditional interchanges.
Which one do you have?
#8500
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi Guys,
I have an older Saito 80 I am putting a gasket kit through and I have a question. The cylinder bore is super shiny inside and has no visible remnants of any hone marks or cross hatching left. When I had the motor together, it had awesome compression, so I'm not too worried about that.. but should I do something to the bore before reassembly or just whack it together again and fly?
Cheers
I have an older Saito 80 I am putting a gasket kit through and I have a question. The cylinder bore is super shiny inside and has no visible remnants of any hone marks or cross hatching left. When I had the motor together, it had awesome compression, so I'm not too worried about that.. but should I do something to the bore before reassembly or just whack it together again and fly?
Cheers