are these blades any good for cp pro?
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hey guys
been a while since i said anything just been reading and out flying as much as possible. learning alot i do have a question.
do you need symetrical blades to try flips and loops and such just some basic 3d or can i still use my flat bottom blades.
any input would be appreciated also what is the easy to learn flips or rolls
thanks in advance
Jeremy
ps thanks for all the help you gave me a few months ago glen you really got me going i love this stuff
been a while since i said anything just been reading and out flying as much as possible. learning alot i do have a question.
do you need symetrical blades to try flips and loops and such just some basic 3d or can i still use my flat bottom blades.
any input would be appreciated also what is the easy to learn flips or rolls
thanks in advance
Jeremy
ps thanks for all the help you gave me a few months ago glen you really got me going i love this stuff
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Hey Jeremy,
Long time no chat!
I thought you may have gotten discouraged and given up! [
]
Glad to hear you are still flying, and enjoying it!
Nope, the flat bottoms have to go if you are going to try any type of flips or rolls, they have no lift when inverted, it's just asking for trouble, and it would be much more difficult to perform any 3D type stuff....maybe not impossible to do a fast loop, but the symmetricals are the way to go.
I used a sim (and still do, religiously) to get started doing backflips...I just practiced over and over the stick movements, and one day, I felt ready to try it, and it went almost exactly like it did on the sim in real life, but scarier!
I would highly suggest a sim to anyone trying to learn/improve on helis, they are the best money I have spent on the hobby, personally.
The sim, while not perfect, will get the basic stick movements and timing down for you to get a start on the flips, rolls, etc....and it sure does save alot of crashes in the meantime, while you are learning new moves!![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
You are welcome for the help getting started, you'll have to post a video so we can see ya flyin' sometime!!
Take care,
Glenn
Long time no chat!
I thought you may have gotten discouraged and given up! [
![Embarrassment](images/smilies/redface.gif)
Glad to hear you are still flying, and enjoying it!
Nope, the flat bottoms have to go if you are going to try any type of flips or rolls, they have no lift when inverted, it's just asking for trouble, and it would be much more difficult to perform any 3D type stuff....maybe not impossible to do a fast loop, but the symmetricals are the way to go.
I used a sim (and still do, religiously) to get started doing backflips...I just practiced over and over the stick movements, and one day, I felt ready to try it, and it went almost exactly like it did on the sim in real life, but scarier!
I would highly suggest a sim to anyone trying to learn/improve on helis, they are the best money I have spent on the hobby, personally.
The sim, while not perfect, will get the basic stick movements and timing down for you to get a start on the flips, rolls, etc....and it sure does save alot of crashes in the meantime, while you are learning new moves!
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
You are welcome for the help getting started, you'll have to post a video so we can see ya flyin' sometime!!
Take care,
Glenn
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I'm gonna jump in here with my thoughts!
First of all - what Heli are you flying?
Secondly my guess is if you have flat bottom blades then your chances of flips etc are pretty slim. Although you need symetrical blades for inverted you also need the ability for your heli to produce negative pitch. Inverted this will pull your heli up or enable you to do these "flips and rolls" you speak of. But that takes tiem and LOTS of practice!
Generally you will need something referred to as "3D capable" although very few of us achive true 3D!! Flying inverted and flips and rolls are not 3D. A "chaos" can be considered 3D beacause of the rotation on all 3 axis.
I digress!
Jon
First of all - what Heli are you flying?
Secondly my guess is if you have flat bottom blades then your chances of flips etc are pretty slim. Although you need symetrical blades for inverted you also need the ability for your heli to produce negative pitch. Inverted this will pull your heli up or enable you to do these "flips and rolls" you speak of. But that takes tiem and LOTS of practice!
Generally you will need something referred to as "3D capable" although very few of us achive true 3D!! Flying inverted and flips and rolls are not 3D. A "chaos" can be considered 3D beacause of the rotation on all 3 axis.
I digress!
Jon
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jon
i have a blade cp pro 2 i have been flying almost every day for about 4 months now i know i will need practice and so forth but i am getting pretty good with the "flat flying" if you will
and i am ready to try some basic "3d" moves thanks for the input
Glen
hey have not given up actually got my buddy flying with me i was smart and started him on a b400 he has done better than i did when i started but he has had me there to help him out but thats ok
i am looking at the phoenix sim isnt that the one you recomended to me before? also how is that turnigy charger holding up we are both looking at getting one as long as you say it has held up prettty good
one more question and this is to all has anyone used and of the fusion pack batteries? was thinking of getting some of them my last batt is just about dead my charger sucks so it has finialy killed my last pack
everyone
how big of a pack can i put in the cpp2 for more flight time but not compromise 3d abbility and how big of a pack can my buddy use in his b400 more for flight time he is not ready for 3d not even close
thanks everyone this form has been a huge help to keep us going we dont talk much cause most of our questions have been anwsered
thanks again everyone
jeremy
i have a blade cp pro 2 i have been flying almost every day for about 4 months now i know i will need practice and so forth but i am getting pretty good with the "flat flying" if you will
and i am ready to try some basic "3d" moves thanks for the input
Glen
hey have not given up actually got my buddy flying with me i was smart and started him on a b400 he has done better than i did when i started but he has had me there to help him out but thats ok
i am looking at the phoenix sim isnt that the one you recomended to me before? also how is that turnigy charger holding up we are both looking at getting one as long as you say it has held up prettty good
one more question and this is to all has anyone used and of the fusion pack batteries? was thinking of getting some of them my last batt is just about dead my charger sucks so it has finialy killed my last pack
everyone
how big of a pack can i put in the cpp2 for more flight time but not compromise 3d abbility and how big of a pack can my buddy use in his b400 more for flight time he is not ready for 3d not even close
thanks everyone this form has been a huge help to keep us going we dont talk much cause most of our questions have been anwsered
thanks again everyone
jeremy
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Jeremy,
I have never heard of a Fusion battery before.
I never did 3D with my CPP, but I got decent flight times doing aerobatics with a 800mAh battery with a high C rating. I was thinking the guys said some where around 2100mAh was the biggest battery they could use on the B400 due to the canopy.
Nick
I have never heard of a Fusion battery before.
I never did 3D with my CPP, but I got decent flight times doing aerobatics with a 800mAh battery with a high C rating. I was thinking the guys said some where around 2100mAh was the biggest battery they could use on the B400 due to the canopy.
Nick
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Hey Jeremy,
Glad to hear you guys are still going at it with the helis...sounds good!
You did your buddy a favor by starting him out on the B400, it's a bit more stable, and easier to learn on, in most people's opinion...and don't worry if it seems like he's making better progress, everyone has their own learning curve, some get it faster than others...I feel like I should have progressed further by now, but I am just going at my own pace...it's different for everyone.
Yeah, I highly recommend Phoenix as a helicopter sim, it's easy on PC resources (although it still requires a decent video card to run WELL) compared to Realflight, and most heli people agree that it is a better sim for helis...and the price has come down, I think it's now $129 last time I looked, it varies on the dollar to pound (British) exchange rate....you can currently only get it from the manufacturer in England, but the shipping is reasonable, and fast....and all updates and upgrades are always FREE with Phoenix. Also, if you do order it, make sure you get the proper adapter for your transmitter, remember, Phoenix does not come with a TX/radio, you have to use your own, which in my opinion, is a GOOD thing...
The packs I am using in my CPP2's are the Outrage 800 mAh, 25C packs...and I get a decent flght time, about 6 minutes, and LOTS of power for those flips, etc. I like them, they are tad lighter than stock, are about the exact same size, and have loads of power. If you want more flight time, you'd have to go with a larger, heavier, higher mAh pack...which will usually reduce performance, due to the extra weight. I think the Outrage packs are a decent compromise.
Good luck with your helis, and get that sim!!!![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
Glenn
Glad to hear you guys are still going at it with the helis...sounds good!
You did your buddy a favor by starting him out on the B400, it's a bit more stable, and easier to learn on, in most people's opinion...and don't worry if it seems like he's making better progress, everyone has their own learning curve, some get it faster than others...I feel like I should have progressed further by now, but I am just going at my own pace...it's different for everyone.
Yeah, I highly recommend Phoenix as a helicopter sim, it's easy on PC resources (although it still requires a decent video card to run WELL) compared to Realflight, and most heli people agree that it is a better sim for helis...and the price has come down, I think it's now $129 last time I looked, it varies on the dollar to pound (British) exchange rate....you can currently only get it from the manufacturer in England, but the shipping is reasonable, and fast....and all updates and upgrades are always FREE with Phoenix. Also, if you do order it, make sure you get the proper adapter for your transmitter, remember, Phoenix does not come with a TX/radio, you have to use your own, which in my opinion, is a GOOD thing...
The packs I am using in my CPP2's are the Outrage 800 mAh, 25C packs...and I get a decent flght time, about 6 minutes, and LOTS of power for those flips, etc. I like them, they are tad lighter than stock, are about the exact same size, and have loads of power. If you want more flight time, you'd have to go with a larger, heavier, higher mAh pack...which will usually reduce performance, due to the extra weight. I think the Outrage packs are a decent compromise.
Good luck with your helis, and get that sim!!!
![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
Glenn
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jon,
Thanks for the correction/clarification on the term "3D" ... I think alot of people, myself included, misuse or misunderstand the definition!
I always considered flying inverted at least "mild" 3D...I guess I stand corrected!
Take care, and keep us posted on your progress, I always read your posts!![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Glenn
Thanks for the correction/clarification on the term "3D" ... I think alot of people, myself included, misuse or misunderstand the definition!
I always considered flying inverted at least "mild" 3D...I guess I stand corrected!
Take care, and keep us posted on your progress, I always read your posts!
![Wink](images/smilies/wink.gif)
Glenn
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hey nick
check out this site and let me know what you think [link]http://fusion-pack.com/default.aspx[/link] its for the batteries they seem ok
glen
thanks for the encourgement i know i am still a better pilot than he is he just hasnt wrecked as much as i did when i started.
you didnt say anything about the charger. how is it doing still charging good?
do you know is there a way to get two cords so me and him could fly to gather on that sim?
have to get some vid when i get back to work and get some of the stuff i need to make it better to fly longer also
later
Jeremy
check out this site and let me know what you think [link]http://fusion-pack.com/default.aspx[/link] its for the batteries they seem ok
glen
thanks for the encourgement i know i am still a better pilot than he is he just hasnt wrecked as much as i did when i started.
you didnt say anything about the charger. how is it doing still charging good?
do you know is there a way to get two cords so me and him could fly to gather on that sim?
have to get some vid when i get back to work and get some of the stuff i need to make it better to fly longer also
later
Jeremy
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Jeremy,
Oh yeah, forgot all about the charger...yeah, it's GREAT...I have the 6S adapter, so I can charge 2 B400 packs at one time! I have nothing but good to say about that charger, it has been one of the best values for the money I have ever spent! I got the larger one the Turnigy 8150 (150 watt), and it wasl like $79...I have chargers that cost almost twice that, that don't do as much!
You won't be able to hook the two transmitters together on the same PC for Phoenix, BUT, you can play online...you all don't even have to be in the same house or room, the online play is pretty good, but has no chat (yet, I think they are working on that in the now Beta version of 2.5). But, as you know, you can use the audio only on Skype, with a headset, and chat while you guys fly online! It's not silky smooth, a bit jittery, and sometimes you might get booted or knocked offline with it... same as with Realflight G4.5...
I'll take a look at those batteries here in a minute...
Hope that helps!
Glenn
Oh yeah, forgot all about the charger...yeah, it's GREAT...I have the 6S adapter, so I can charge 2 B400 packs at one time! I have nothing but good to say about that charger, it has been one of the best values for the money I have ever spent! I got the larger one the Turnigy 8150 (150 watt), and it wasl like $79...I have chargers that cost almost twice that, that don't do as much!
You won't be able to hook the two transmitters together on the same PC for Phoenix, BUT, you can play online...you all don't even have to be in the same house or room, the online play is pretty good, but has no chat (yet, I think they are working on that in the now Beta version of 2.5). But, as you know, you can use the audio only on Skype, with a headset, and chat while you guys fly online! It's not silky smooth, a bit jittery, and sometimes you might get booted or knocked offline with it... same as with Realflight G4.5...
I'll take a look at those batteries here in a minute...
Hope that helps!
Glenn
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Jeremy,
I assume you are talking about this pack?
https://fusion-pack.com/productdetai...?id=219&cat=84
Looks pretty good, just a tad heavier than stock (65 vs. 69 grams)...kinda odd shaped, but it should fit OK, you may want to double check the dimensions, looks a bit shorter and wider than the stock Eflite packs...but it seems like it would fit.
Here are the ones I am using, just for reference;
http://www.helidirect.com/outrage-xp...ama-p-7951.hdx
Either one would be fine, I'm sure and better than the overpriced Efite packs...![EEK!](images/smilies/eek.gif)
Glenn
I assume you are talking about this pack?
https://fusion-pack.com/productdetai...?id=219&cat=84
Looks pretty good, just a tad heavier than stock (65 vs. 69 grams)...kinda odd shaped, but it should fit OK, you may want to double check the dimensions, looks a bit shorter and wider than the stock Eflite packs...but it seems like it would fit.
Here are the ones I am using, just for reference;
http://www.helidirect.com/outrage-xp...ama-p-7951.hdx
Either one would be fine, I'm sure and better than the overpriced Efite packs...
![EEK!](images/smilies/eek.gif)
Glenn
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ORIGINAL: jon6565
Generally you will need something referred to as ''3D capable'' although very few of us achive true 3D!! Flying inverted and flips and rolls are not 3D. A ''chaos'' can be considered 3D beacause of the rotation on all 3 axis.
Jon
Generally you will need something referred to as ''3D capable'' although very few of us achive true 3D!! Flying inverted and flips and rolls are not 3D. A ''chaos'' can be considered 3D beacause of the rotation on all 3 axis.
Jon
Based on the set manoeuvres for the 3D masters a stationary forward and backward flip, Pie dish, and inverted figure 8 circuits are considered 3D and they are a lot easier to do than a Chaos or piro flip.
http://www.fly3dx.com/setManoeuvres.htm
Nick
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glen
thanks for the info on the charger i am going to get one for shure i just looked and they are down to 69 now better yet i just wanted someone who has used it alot to tell me what they
think i know you charge a lot of packs so you would put it thorough a work out
thanks for the info on the charger i am going to get one for shure i just looked and they are down to 69 now better yet i just wanted someone who has used it alot to tell me what they
think i know you charge a lot of packs so you would put it thorough a work out
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Jeremy,
That battery should do just fine. It has the same C rating Glenn's Outrage battery has, so it should have good power and run cooler.
Nick
That battery should do just fine. It has the same C rating Glenn's Outrage battery has, so it should have good power and run cooler.
Nick
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Jeremy,
Yeah, that's what I get for assuming...lol...you know the story behind that one...[X(]
That pack looks like a much better fit, and is lighter too... even than the Outrage packs...looks nice!
That charger is a bargain for $69! As long as you get a good one, I have not had any issues at all with mine so far at all...it actually seems to be very well built, nice and heavy, and a nice cooling fan that runs when it's charging too...
Glenn
Yeah, that's what I get for assuming...lol...you know the story behind that one...[X(]
That pack looks like a much better fit, and is lighter too... even than the Outrage packs...looks nice!
That charger is a bargain for $69! As long as you get a good one, I have not had any issues at all with mine so far at all...it actually seems to be very well built, nice and heavy, and a nice cooling fan that runs when it's charging too...
Glenn
#8566
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Jeremy ~
One pack that gives me to much flight time for the CPP is one of these Thunder Power 3s 1320 mah 13c lipo's. This one with the velcro weighs 89 grams w/EC3 connectors. This CP-Pro is stock except for CF blades and so I can get three 9 minute runs out of this battery. I also have a couple stock E-Flite 800 mah's 10c batts, but there lame... But they work.
I wish I had a few 800-900 mah 25c or 35c Outrage batts for my CPP's ! Then I would be happier... ![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I just use industrial strength velcro to attach the battery to the tray. You don't need much as its pretty tacky and can be a booger to pry the battery off. Its all plug and play for the CPP's that way. Flip the bird over, install the pack, or remove in seconds with no canopy hassle. Cutting the canopy to fit the batts just makes it so much nicer. Many, many wrecks and the battery has never ejected from the heli. In any of my heli's for that matter... I always use packing tape then on all the seams inside the plastic canopy for added strength. Also behind the grommet holes to keep it from tearing in a crash. This canopy already has seen 3 good wrecks in a week ! only 9 grams from its stock 13 gram weight, and operates now much more effecient by ventilation, added strength, and lighter weight.
Ok... Enough rambling... (LMAO)...![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
This CPP is gutted like a pig for reduced weight in all areas including the rotor head area. The stock weight of a CPP with the batt is 298 grams compared to the CPP2 which they say is 325 grams. So RTF weight without any battery is 221 grams. With the stock battery it comes in at 285 grams. And then of course with the heavier 1320 TP battery it rests then at 307 grams.
It flies really good once I removed the inner weights that secure the flybar, and also reduced the 4 gram paddles to 3 gram paddles. Its amazing how quiet it is now. Me likey.....![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
Here's a video with this CPP and this 1320 mah battery from 15 days ago at the field... This was before I modded out the heli some more. Can't wait to take it back out and try it out at the field instead of just flying around my yard.![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
http://exposureroom.com/members/J-MI...f14216dcf7b36/
Cheers,
~ Jeff
![](http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t285/jeffreymichael2/July1409022.jpg?t=1247613523)
One pack that gives me to much flight time for the CPP is one of these Thunder Power 3s 1320 mah 13c lipo's. This one with the velcro weighs 89 grams w/EC3 connectors. This CP-Pro is stock except for CF blades and so I can get three 9 minute runs out of this battery. I also have a couple stock E-Flite 800 mah's 10c batts, but there lame... But they work.
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I just use industrial strength velcro to attach the battery to the tray. You don't need much as its pretty tacky and can be a booger to pry the battery off. Its all plug and play for the CPP's that way. Flip the bird over, install the pack, or remove in seconds with no canopy hassle. Cutting the canopy to fit the batts just makes it so much nicer. Many, many wrecks and the battery has never ejected from the heli. In any of my heli's for that matter... I always use packing tape then on all the seams inside the plastic canopy for added strength. Also behind the grommet holes to keep it from tearing in a crash. This canopy already has seen 3 good wrecks in a week ! only 9 grams from its stock 13 gram weight, and operates now much more effecient by ventilation, added strength, and lighter weight.
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
This CPP is gutted like a pig for reduced weight in all areas including the rotor head area. The stock weight of a CPP with the batt is 298 grams compared to the CPP2 which they say is 325 grams. So RTF weight without any battery is 221 grams. With the stock battery it comes in at 285 grams. And then of course with the heavier 1320 TP battery it rests then at 307 grams.
It flies really good once I removed the inner weights that secure the flybar, and also reduced the 4 gram paddles to 3 gram paddles. Its amazing how quiet it is now. Me likey.....
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
Here's a video with this CPP and this 1320 mah battery from 15 days ago at the field... This was before I modded out the heli some more. Can't wait to take it back out and try it out at the field instead of just flying around my yard.
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
http://exposureroom.com/members/J-MI...f14216dcf7b36/
Cheers,
~ Jeff
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Hey Guys,
Nick,
A radiator, I like it!
Been busy with home repairs and maintenance. Found signs of mice in our other house yesterday. I set a plan in moton this morning and the little buggers are "mine". I just may sell their pelts here on line for canopy covers euuuuuuuu! LOL
Rebuilt 401 again last night and she is back from the Sunday video crash. I started this afternoon to rebuild the wing servo on the T-28 and found once again the LHS tried their best but gave me the wrong replacement gears. And when did I find this out? Only after I tore open the bag beyond repair for a return. It was only $2.50 but its the PITA to go now to another shop to see if they have the "right" ones.
Nick, I weighed my plane and it is like 95 grams or 4.5 oz over weight with all of the glue, scotch tape and Gorilla tape but she has really gotten slugish. So much I can't keep up with my buddy. Now the LHS said while the plane is overweight it should not cut is power by 1/3 which it is right now in my opinion. So I bought a new fuse, main wing, elev to nearly rebuilt it like new. I still come in $85.00 under a new plane in the box. My fear is...if my motor "is" worn out after my 35 flights I am screwed as a new motor is $60.00 YIKES, so we will see. I plan to remove as much tape as possible and repair the servo and take her up. If I can get most my lost power back I'll fly it until she goes down again and then toss the plane less the electrics and put them in my new fuse and such. I would like to beaf up the motor but then I would a new ESC and it is never over, I am kind of a "turn key" type.
I did get two flights in the morning on the 401 and she was great, but I do miss the CF blades. The heli has a whole different fell without them. Well over 100 day after day so we fly as you all know (late sleepers lol) at 5:30 to a quarter to 6 when sun comes up.
Smiles JPEE
Nick,
A radiator, I like it!
Been busy with home repairs and maintenance. Found signs of mice in our other house yesterday. I set a plan in moton this morning and the little buggers are "mine". I just may sell their pelts here on line for canopy covers euuuuuuuu! LOL
Rebuilt 401 again last night and she is back from the Sunday video crash. I started this afternoon to rebuild the wing servo on the T-28 and found once again the LHS tried their best but gave me the wrong replacement gears. And when did I find this out? Only after I tore open the bag beyond repair for a return. It was only $2.50 but its the PITA to go now to another shop to see if they have the "right" ones.
Nick, I weighed my plane and it is like 95 grams or 4.5 oz over weight with all of the glue, scotch tape and Gorilla tape but she has really gotten slugish. So much I can't keep up with my buddy. Now the LHS said while the plane is overweight it should not cut is power by 1/3 which it is right now in my opinion. So I bought a new fuse, main wing, elev to nearly rebuilt it like new. I still come in $85.00 under a new plane in the box. My fear is...if my motor "is" worn out after my 35 flights I am screwed as a new motor is $60.00 YIKES, so we will see. I plan to remove as much tape as possible and repair the servo and take her up. If I can get most my lost power back I'll fly it until she goes down again and then toss the plane less the electrics and put them in my new fuse and such. I would like to beaf up the motor but then I would a new ESC and it is never over, I am kind of a "turn key" type.
I did get two flights in the morning on the 401 and she was great, but I do miss the CF blades. The heli has a whole different fell without them. Well over 100 day after day so we fly as you all know (late sleepers lol) at 5:30 to a quarter to 6 when sun comes up.
Smiles JPEE
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JPEE,
Sorry to hear about the gears.
Are you flying with old or new batteries in the plane? Doesn't your plane use a brushless motor? The motor shouldn't go bad, but you could check the bearings. If you wanted more speed you could try using a little smaller prop with more pitch in it.
Nick
Sorry to hear about the gears.
Are you flying with old or new batteries in the plane? Doesn't your plane use a brushless motor? The motor shouldn't go bad, but you could check the bearings. If you wanted more speed you could try using a little smaller prop with more pitch in it.
Nick
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jeff
that was a nice vid. what did you do diffrent to to landing gear and is that a stock canopy i like the idea of cutting out the bottom of the canopy i will have to do that my canopy is a little crashed all ready i have gotten it up side not unintentionaly(spelling) and did not no what to do never in stunt mode when it happens so i guess there is nothing to do. anyways did you just drill out the flybar paddles to loose weight. what other mods have you done to it i like moding
jeremy
that was a nice vid. what did you do diffrent to to landing gear and is that a stock canopy i like the idea of cutting out the bottom of the canopy i will have to do that my canopy is a little crashed all ready i have gotten it up side not unintentionaly(spelling) and did not no what to do never in stunt mode when it happens so i guess there is nothing to do. anyways did you just drill out the flybar paddles to loose weight. what other mods have you done to it i like moding
jeremy
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Hi Nick,
I am using my new 2150's 20C Rhinos. Yes it is a brushless motor. I never understood about props/pitch and diameters, but it does make very good sense now that you bring it up. I'll see how she flies and then go from there.
As always thanks for the tips!
JPEE
I am using my new 2150's 20C Rhinos. Yes it is a brushless motor. I never understood about props/pitch and diameters, but it does make very good sense now that you bring it up. I'll see how she flies and then go from there.
As always thanks for the tips!
JPEE
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JPEE,
From the little bit that I understand the bigger the prop the more thrust it makes and the more pitch the faster the plane will go. I read that 3D planes use big props with little pitch and other planes use a combo of both. Other than that I have no idea on what prop size/pitch would be good for a plane.
Nick
From the little bit that I understand the bigger the prop the more thrust it makes and the more pitch the faster the plane will go. I read that 3D planes use big props with little pitch and other planes use a combo of both. Other than that I have no idea on what prop size/pitch would be good for a plane.
Nick
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I just got done filling out the return form for my ESC, so I was just browsing CC website and they have a water cooled ESC that is capable of 240A and 16HP. There is a nice price tag of $540 too.
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howdy all... lots going on and hard to keep up..
Dankhead... jeremy?? I would love to sell you a turnigy charge just like glenn has... accucel - 8, somehow hobby city has got two of them on the way to me instead of one.. they are on the way now but I didn't notice the confirmed billing amount untill it was too late to change, yuk. Priority flat rate could get it to you pretty fast when it gets to me. I think there was an old selection in my cart and I added another and didn't notice... the bad part is I think they left off the twin lead connector for charging two packs at once that I did want.
Jeff... the cpp looks nice, did you just CA the flybar into the paddle control frame when you removed the flybar weights? you said you took the inside weights off the flybar?.. just noticed horizon has 15% off blade's this week... I've got the cpp but am considering getting a cpp2 for the rx and hh gyro as well as dd tail ... add those mods to a cpp and you might as well bought a new bird it seems.
Nick or anybody... I was screwing around with my belt cp and put aalign design 450se v2 rotor head on the heli that I got dirt cheap and not knowing if I could make it fly. However, it does fly quite well, incredibly stable and responsive after flying the belt with the plastic rotor head and parts it came with. I was following finless bob's videos on ccpm head set up and got it all set up as described at 50% throttle, zero pitch, it seems well set up for forward normal (not inverted) flight. However, I was wondering if it's the design of the head or I'm missing something... because if you have zero pitch @ 50% in normal flight mode then I have negative pitch at zero throttle? I know that seems right went in stunt mode and the throttle is mid stick and throwing pitch both ways but is that right for normal flight modes or is it screwed up? Also, I do need room at zero throttle for full swash plate movement becasue in 3d that's when maximum negitive pitch will be acheived, correct?\
I'm about ready to start my build on the 450se v2 also as I await my last parts order... it looks like the parts collection is:
scorpion 2221-8 motor, scorp commander 45 amp esc, jr ds287 cyclic servos, jr ds 290g tail servo, gy401 gyro, (2) 200g 2200ma 25c batteries... does anyome smell trouble yet??
My flying skills also substancially improving, whipping the cpp around pretty good now however thats when the heavy hitting begins I'm afraid, less crashes but with a higher impact velocity too.. yuk
helicorpse
Peter
Dankhead... jeremy?? I would love to sell you a turnigy charge just like glenn has... accucel - 8, somehow hobby city has got two of them on the way to me instead of one.. they are on the way now but I didn't notice the confirmed billing amount untill it was too late to change, yuk. Priority flat rate could get it to you pretty fast when it gets to me. I think there was an old selection in my cart and I added another and didn't notice... the bad part is I think they left off the twin lead connector for charging two packs at once that I did want.
Jeff... the cpp looks nice, did you just CA the flybar into the paddle control frame when you removed the flybar weights? you said you took the inside weights off the flybar?.. just noticed horizon has 15% off blade's this week... I've got the cpp but am considering getting a cpp2 for the rx and hh gyro as well as dd tail ... add those mods to a cpp and you might as well bought a new bird it seems.
Nick or anybody... I was screwing around with my belt cp and put aalign design 450se v2 rotor head on the heli that I got dirt cheap and not knowing if I could make it fly. However, it does fly quite well, incredibly stable and responsive after flying the belt with the plastic rotor head and parts it came with. I was following finless bob's videos on ccpm head set up and got it all set up as described at 50% throttle, zero pitch, it seems well set up for forward normal (not inverted) flight. However, I was wondering if it's the design of the head or I'm missing something... because if you have zero pitch @ 50% in normal flight mode then I have negative pitch at zero throttle? I know that seems right went in stunt mode and the throttle is mid stick and throwing pitch both ways but is that right for normal flight modes or is it screwed up? Also, I do need room at zero throttle for full swash plate movement becasue in 3d that's when maximum negitive pitch will be acheived, correct?\
I'm about ready to start my build on the 450se v2 also as I await my last parts order... it looks like the parts collection is:
scorpion 2221-8 motor, scorp commander 45 amp esc, jr ds287 cyclic servos, jr ds 290g tail servo, gy401 gyro, (2) 200g 2200ma 25c batteries... does anyome smell trouble yet??
My flying skills also substancially improving, whipping the cpp around pretty good now however thats when the heavy hitting begins I'm afraid, less crashes but with a higher impact velocity too.. yuk
helicorpse
Peter
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helistyle,,....
You spoke of replacing the hub on you cpp the other day and if you've not checked into the helidirct replacement cnc hub you should look.. for 20$ they give you both parts of the hub that are sold separately by eflite that total almost the same amount. I've got that part on my cpp ever since the retaining pin hole crack out the plastic hub and flybar slop got intolerable.
Speaking of which, I guess the slop in the flybar on the cpp's can't be avoided except when in new or perfect condition? Mine has alot as I assume all these heli do after some flying? It doesn't affect my flying at my skill level right now, does it effect yours or is it my many crashes that have made mine sloppy and your's are still good?
helicorpse
You spoke of replacing the hub on you cpp the other day and if you've not checked into the helidirct replacement cnc hub you should look.. for 20$ they give you both parts of the hub that are sold separately by eflite that total almost the same amount. I've got that part on my cpp ever since the retaining pin hole crack out the plastic hub and flybar slop got intolerable.
Speaking of which, I guess the slop in the flybar on the cpp's can't be avoided except when in new or perfect condition? Mine has alot as I assume all these heli do after some flying? It doesn't affect my flying at my skill level right now, does it effect yours or is it my many crashes that have made mine sloppy and your's are still good?
helicorpse