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are these blades any good for cp pro?

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are these blades any good for cp pro?

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Old 07-24-2009, 08:04 PM
  #8651  
evdreamer
 
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

Here are some pics of a mockup of the motor mount made out of cardboard. I also figured out how to fix my existing airframe and made cardboard parts for those. Tomorrow I will try and find some wood and fix the 540. I might also get covering and maybe finish it up.
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Old 07-24-2009, 08:26 PM
  #8652  
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[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmoE8-3_yf8&feature=player_embedded
[/youtube]
Old 07-24-2009, 08:51 PM
  #8653  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

NICK,

That is interesting on the DX7. But due to the button loaction on the x7 as we discussed I'd rather use the Dx6i for "ease" and control and for the spring loaded switch to a buddy box. But that is not to say there is some interesting stuff there on the two to three way the DX7 switch can work.

Thanks JPEE
Old 07-24-2009, 08:58 PM
  #8654  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

JPEE,

I am surprised how well that new E-Flite heli performs. If only it could go inverted.

Nick
Old 07-24-2009, 09:42 PM
  #8655  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

Nick ~

Great mockups with the cardboard ! I'am glad to hear ya found a way to repair the existing fuse. If you ever need or want to fiddle with fiberglass its a no-brainer ya know. You can even just go to Walmart and get a small can in the auto-dept I think it is, and there is also some fiberglass cloth in a small package, all for pretty cheap. A small tube of catalayst that you mix with the resin, and it "kicks" or activates the resin making it active and in the process of hardening up combined in conjunction with using the mat or roving material.

Acetone is great for clean-up of any small brushes or tools used. Yogurt containers or popsicle sticks are great to use also for mixing up small amounts. The warmer it is, the least amount of catalyst you'll use, as it will kick faster and also depending on humidity. If you use to much, it may set-off to soon, and sometimes even crackle or throw up a blue flame. Then grab the marshmallows.... Also don't breathe the fumes !

I'am lucky to have a bunch of supplies that I got from my parents. They buy the resin in 55 gallon containers, and the fiberglass cloth in rolls. But the stuff from like even Walmart works fine, and will probably even last you awhile. So great for small fix-its sometimes for anything. Just a thought.... You would like the stuff.

I enforced my Funtana a bit with some small pieces of fiberglass roving layed out making small criss-cross braces, and then applied the resin and worked out the airbubbles. Nothing pretty, but needing a bit of strength in that landing gear area. Boy, to me the whole thing is weak ! LMAO... But designed so it can fly good I suppose. I could have just kept going, but then she'd be heavy as a rock ! So your idea of a Carbon-Fiber airframe or at least key portions, is superb ! [8D] Especially that motor mount area, as I heard that guys upgrading to bigger motors have tweaked that box mount from the torque of the motor that was most likely overkill. Sounds like something I'd do....



Take care guys !

~ Jeff



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Old 07-24-2009, 09:43 PM
  #8656  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

JPEE ~


I guess it really never does end huh ?! I love that heli !
Old 07-24-2009, 09:57 PM
  #8657  
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Jeff,

I might mess with Fiberglass some day. There are some talented people at my club that have made some cool stuff out of it. There are a couple of fiberglass and carbon fiber planes and a few scale planes with custom made fiberglass parts.

I hope that fiberglass works out good for you. When I didn't have the prop on I went to full throttle and I could see the whole plane rotate in the opposite direction like a heli would without the tail rotor.

Nick
Old 07-25-2009, 12:21 AM
  #8658  
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Nick ~

That's interesting about some planes having already fiberglass and CF parts or pieces. I just recently was on a thread also of guys with these huge planes fiberglassing it, and then painting the craft. Cool... Yeah I can't wait to at least fire up the motor to hear what it sounds like compared to a heli.
Old 07-25-2009, 04:28 PM
  #8659  
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Jeff,

I stopped by my LHS and got a covering iron, covering, and a throw gauge. They only had to two small shelves of airplane parts and no wood. Luckily there was a Michaels near the LHS and they had a small selection of wood that I could use. Maybe I can fix this up by tonight and enter in a pattern(aerobatic for airplane) contest tomorrow. I looked at the moves in the novice category and I can do those.

Nick
Old 07-25-2009, 05:08 PM
  #8660  
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NICK,

I was right.....Michaels did have some wood.....cool. I hope you getter up tonight so you can try out tomorrow.




JPEE
Old 07-25-2009, 07:56 PM
  #8661  
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JPEE,

I got my landing gear supports in and I glued the nuts onto the landing gear brace. I made those out of 1/8th plywood. I don't think those are going to have a problem handling the stress. I am thinking it might take me an hour or two to finish all the wood work up. Once that is done I will take some pics before I cover it.

Nick
Old 07-25-2009, 08:42 PM
  #8662  
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COOL NICK I CAN'T WAIT

JPEE
Old 07-25-2009, 10:03 PM
  #8663  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

JPEE,

Here is pretty much the finish product. I just need to put in solid pieces of plywood between the landing gear supports and sand the outside down. Then onto covering and electronic install.

Nick
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Old 07-25-2009, 10:18 PM
  #8664  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

Nick,

Looks like a nice job there!!!

I would never make it with planes...not wooden ones anyways....everything I have ever tried to make from wood has been a disaster....LOL

I'm better with nuts and bolts, thank you!!

Good job! Hope you can get some covering on it, and go flying soon!

Not much new here, Rob sent me an email, a friend of his is selling a Raptor .50 ....for a nice price! But, I just don't think I'm quite ready for that just yet...for one thing, it would be a problem to even find a place to fly it other than my very plane oriented club field...the baseball fields might work, but then there is the noise factor...and neighbors, etc...so I think I'm going to pass...

Don't the Raptors use mCCPM? I have read that it's actually a better setup from a geometric standpoint, but it sure seems weird looking at it...[X(]

Glenn
Old 07-25-2009, 10:23 PM
  #8665  
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ORIGINAL: evdreamer

JPEE,

Here is pretty much the finish product. I just need to put in solid pieces of plywood between the landing gear supports and sand the outside down. Then onto covering and electronic install.

Nick
WOW Nick, that was some work! CLEAN job! You eye balls must be strained after this, that looks like some realy tight work and better than new.

PS: Why we use Dremels and small cutters Glenn's got a 1/2 impact driver in his hand with 200 PSI and ready to go saying; where do we start? ..............Love ya man just had to take a poke...you opened the door. LOL

JPEE
Old 07-26-2009, 01:30 AM
  #8666  
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Thanks guys. I just finished covering the plane. I don't think I did too bad for my first time. I will put up some pics tomorrow. I also installed the landing gear and motor. I don't think I will finish it by tonight, so I can't enter in the contest tomorrow. However, I should be able to finish it some time tomorrow.

Glenn,

Yeah the Raptors use mechanical mixing. Yeah it just seems more complex with all the extra links and levers compared to the eCCPM helis. I don't know if the 50 size has this, but on the 30 size the rudder uses a two piece pushrod with some locking collars to hold them together. The guy that owned the 30 said he didn't like that rudder design very much.

Nick

Old 07-26-2009, 01:38 AM
  #8667  
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Nick ~


Yeah way to go ! It looks great in fact... Its funny, but sometimes a patch ends up being stronger than what the original piece was. Lol... Yeah I was just wondering how hard it was to cover a plane a few minutes ago, as I was staring at my Funtana in the hobby room. That's good to hear then that its not horribly hard to do then.
Old 07-26-2009, 02:12 AM
  #8668  
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Jeff,

What I found out covering was try and use the biggest pieces you can. Then use the covering iron and start in the center and work your way to the ends. Pull on the ends of the covering while doing that. Then I used a heat gun and that smoothed things out great. However, the heat gun makes small patch jobs really wringled. That is what happened to me near the rudder and elevator.

Nick
Old 07-26-2009, 05:57 AM
  #8669  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

well gusy some sad news today lol

My cp pro 2 is getting sold

and

and

a new helicopter to the fleet will be coming in 2 days

T-rex 250
Old 07-26-2009, 07:44 AM
  #8670  
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HeliStyle,


CONGRADULATIONS................your getting a real high end, high quality and great heli!


Nick, good job it sounds like on the plane!



JPEE
Old 07-26-2009, 09:33 AM
  #8671  
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Hi there, just checking in...

Nick, awesome new talents you are gaining... I looked at that kit in the LHS the other day and it's bigger than it looks in the pictures... told the guy you were patterning your own spares for repair as they weren't available yet and he did't seem to be aware of that. Oh, I remember when I was asking about the pitch on the 450se v2 head that I put on the belt?? Why it was so negative at zero throttle.... well, ddddoh..... I just figured out that I hadn't ever changed the pitch curve in normal flight mode to about -2 degree starting point at zero throttle on the dx7... I said huh, that's a neat trick. It all makes better sense all the time.... go figure.

jEEZ .. helistyle is getting rid of his cpp2 already, I'm jealous, as I'm still trying to dig a grave for mine everytime I fly it.

Do I try and use the cushions and bushing mounts with the jr 285's on the 450 build or do I get screws without such a long shank and use the servos without the cushions?? The screw supplied bottom out on the shank before the servo tightens up if you don't use the rubber bushings.

Later on all
fly tight

helicorpse
Old 07-26-2009, 09:54 AM
  #8672  
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JPEE,

I was up to 3 trying to finish this plane, but I just couldn't get it all done to compete today. They would be starting in 15min. I just need to drill the servo holes and drill into the rudder for the control arm. Then I need to make a wood mount for the electronics.

Peter,

I might have been able to buy the fuse direct from Great Planes at full retail of $75, since all the online stores are out of stock until September. If I had all the tools needed it only would have cost $5 to fix what happened. If I can keep doing that it will be a lot cheaper to fix than helis. Cool to hear your pitch issue is fixed. I will say how I mounted my ds285's a little later today, since I have to do some running around now.

Nick
Old 07-26-2009, 10:31 AM
  #8673  
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Peter,

I didn't use the rubber servo parts. I just had the head of the screw on the side of the servo. Then I used the plastic "locking nuts" on the other side of the frame and that held the servo pretty good.

Nick
Old 07-26-2009, 12:34 PM
  #8674  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

Hey guys,

Nick,

Sounds like the covering went well...sorry you didn't make it in time for the competition, that would probably have been fun...oh well, there's always next time...

Yeah, I'm not so sold on the Thunder Tiger stuff...that does sound pretty bogus on the tail control rod setup, and the mechanical mixing sounds like a hassle...

I'm still in a bit of confusion between the Raptor .30 and the .50....apparently they are basically the same, with just a bit of difference in rotor diameter, and engine size? The basic heli seems to share most parts...oh well, I am definitely not getting it anyways, so it's no big deal...

Heli,

WOW, that will be cool!! I have never flown a Trex 250, but have seen and held one, up close, very cool, just like a tiny Trex 450...and they fly pretty well, if you can get the tail nailed down correctly...there were some early issues, but I think they have mostly been resolved...I would research the HF forums closely...

My friend at the club, Rob has one, and I saw him fly it in some very strong winds, and it did quite well...at least it did in his experienced hands!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10cocQZJrzk

Enjoy! And keep us posted! How's the EP 200 going?


Peter,

I chose the other method from Nick, I did use the rubber mounts and eyelets on my B400...and the servos are mounted sturdily, but not ROCK solid to the frame...whether or not this bit of flex is an issue or not, I can't tell ya...but it might give the servos a little cushion on heavy impacts...

On the other hand, it might take away from the "precision" of the servos as well...[]

I think whichever way you do it will be fine...it's more a personal choice I would think...

Good luck with it!

Glenn

Old 07-26-2009, 12:43 PM
  #8675  
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Default RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?

Glenn,

I just finished up the 540. The only thing left to do is balance it. I put the rudder servo in the back, so it has a metal pushrod. Before it was in the center of the fuse with strings attaching to the rudder. I didn't really like that system and there was slop because of the string. Then I put the receiver and regulator on a piece of wood where the rudder servo used to go. It looks a lot better now. I will get some pics soon.

Nick


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