IL2mSturmovik

There are 2 companies I recently became aware of, BCE and Innovative RC that make teh extended chassis for teh CRT, which makes it more or less identical to the X2

mrmike4given

hey there i'm new to the truggy. i got a real nice roller from ebay for 230.00. i'm using 2 digital HS5645MG servos. i went ahead and got a real good Tx/Rx, i bought the Spectrum DX 3.0 (2.4ghz). also i bought a OS30VG to power it up. i also bought a JP-3 pipe for exhaling the nitro and am using a 2S lipo battery to power everything up, with a deans connector. i started out using the roto start and have since switched to the pullstart. oh i forgot to mention that the roller is a PRO roller. i wanted to buy the one piece CNC motor mount, but the place i get my stuff was out. then i relized that they make a 2 piece mount made just the same except you don't have to mess with the mesh everytime you pull off the motor. i have broke the motor in, seems like it is real solid. the only thing that actually needed replacing was the center u joints. the front one was slap wore out. so i heck and put both in. i bought an extra center diff, f/r diff, a set of f/r u joints, arms and turnbuckles as it had one bent one and one captured hinge pin was bent. one question for you guys that has had these a while, i seem to excess wheel play, i mean if you grab the tire and wiggle it, just seems to have alot of slop. i've tightened all the hinge bolts and everything but it still has excessive play. another question, i have jacked with the throttle adjustment and i can't seem to get it worked out. and i have come to the conclusion that it is just the way that they have designed it. when you hit the brakes it's all good, let off the brakes and it seems to rev up, now i know its from the spring tension on the linkage but i've tried to get it to quit and it just won't, no matter where i set it. i mean it has to be close enough to open up all the way, and you want the brakes to work properly, i don't know. this one issue is driving me nuts. oh yeah i had to rebuild the shocks because one was leaking when i got it. i fixed it temp, until the kit came in, and then i got it right. other than that i haven't any real trouble with it. once i got the motor dialed in, this thing screams. my first big block and my first truggy. i ahve a revo that screams and is all hopped up. but this CRT will smoke my REVO. anyhow as soon as i get some pics i'll post. well actually i'll work on that just as soon as i get done here. well thanks ya'll. i started looking at this thread, but dern it's 34 pages long. take forever to look thru the whole thing. see ya later.

Turboprop130

A few thimgs come to mind, you might have a problem with the 2 piece engine mount if you use a pull start or roto start. I chose to use a roto start for the simple fact of not having to carry a starter box. The pro kit comes with low profile mounts and the roto start wouldn't fit. I had to get the tall mounts used in the ofna mutilator and I believe the RTR CRT. These mounts work perfect as they are identical to the low profile, just a little taller. As far as your throttle issue, you say you have the DX 3.0 which has end point adjustments, etc. Use those settings to your advantage. Make sure the servo is centered when you put the servo arm on. Then set up your throttle using those end point adjustments and then adjust your brakes by screwing the brake linkages in or out. A photo of your setup would help to see what's wrong. I will post a photo for you to compare yours to mine. Oh, as for the slop in the wheels, mine is the same way. I think it's the bearings and rod ends that are doing it. The longer I've owned it the worse the slop has gotten. Plus I run 15mm wheel extentions which I know doesn't help the situation.

docphysics

yea, mine seems to have alot of front wheel slop as well. Seems to originate from the bell cranks, but never could figure it out.......

Here is a pic of my ride:

sikntired

My Feedback: (5)

Anyone know if the mutilator diffs are a direct fit, im talking the housing and all?!?

Turboprop130

no they have different part numbers, the mutilater has the ofna 9.5 buggy diff case and gears.

sikntired

My Feedback: (5)

Kinda figured the part #'s would be different as they are different trucks all together, I was simply going on looks. The chassis layout on the both seem to be very similar along w/ many other parts as well!? Just looking for an alternative purchasing method! I know w/ my muggy I was able to purchase mayhem st diffs for it!!

mrmike4given

well here is my setup, the linkages. hope this helps you figure it out. mine looks just like yous!!

mrmike4given

here are a few more pics!!!

docphysics

well it looks correct. from the description of your problem, it sounds like the idle speed screw and zero position of the throttle servo are different. Such that when you hit the brakes, its closing the barrel to the idle postion, when you let off the brakes, the linkage is opening up the barrel past idle. Play with the length of the throttle linkage and the throttle trim on the receiver and find a good position for both.

CRF150F

i wish i had a buggy as kool as that

ProRCRacer88

heres my jammin which is for sale on here.



Reason for selling is so it can help fund upgrading my ST-R into a ST-RR. Has Dace shocktowers which will be here next week. Other than that, its stock and comes with everything except engine, controller/reciever. Has stock CRT wheels/tires not in pics. Price set at $215, pm for pics/questions.

REVO X

My Feedback: (10)

I should have gotten this instead of buying a new one... I just bought one few days ago

mrmike4given

does anyone know what kind of head is on one of those mach 427? doesn't nova make one kinda like it and if so do you guys think they make one to fit the OS 30? well thanks Mike.

IL2mSturmovik

I got the RTR CRT mounts and they are not tall enough to clear my 427 rotostart plate

docphysics

I had that problem too. Just put some allen bolts in the top two inner holes, so that that engine mounts sit on top of them. Then screw the engine mounting allen bolts into the two outer holes.

REVO X

My Feedback: (10)

You can use an XTM 247 backplate and XTM one way bearing for you to use the Mach 427 to fit in the truggy, also... you can use an HPI roto start with it.

Turboprop130

I have the LRP .28 with hpi roto start. I used the ofna mutilator engine mounts and it fits perfect. I got them off ebay for like 5 bucks.

dan.revo

just ordered some parts from a main:

Racers Edge Cradock Brake Disks for Kyosho/Hyper/Jammin/Hot Bodies Buggies (2) $8.49
1 x OFN40090 OFNA Shock Seal Rebuild Kit (4) (Jammin X1) $6.99
1 x OFN40636 OFNA Big Bore 15x1mm Shock O-Rings (4) (X1-CR/X1-CRT) $3.39
1 x OFN40637 OFNA Big Bore 13mm Felt Shock Dust Caps (4) (X1-CR/X1-CRT) $1.69
1 x OFN40669 OFNA Truggy Bumper (X1-CRT) $12.99
1 x OFN40676 OFNA Body Posts & Servo Mount (X1-CRT) $8.49
2 x MAX1730 Maximizer Bead Lock 17mm Half Offset (28mm) White Monster Truck Wheels (2) $57.98
2 x PRO113500 Pro-Line Crime Fighter MTR Monster Truck Tires (2) $45.98
1 x ASC5430 Team Associated Silicone Shock Oil (45wt) $2.99
1 x ASC5431 Team Associated Silicone Shock Oil (55wt) $2.99

UG0TB4NN3D

My Feedback: (1)

I love my X1 CRT.

It's amazing.

Close to $1000 invested in it, and I just started the hobby. Haha.

$1000 well spent.

s10paul

any good ideas on breaking in the crt jammin truggy? any help would be great saturdays weather is looking perfect

docphysics

follow the manual. I wish I had good weather this weekend. stupid cold and snow.

phattracker

My Feedback: (1)

What is the stock steering servo and some specs on it?

Fher Raul

Hi people, one question,, what you think is the best engine for a Jammin>>>??? is a O.S. V-Spec a good decition???, thanks

Turboprop130

The O.S. V-Spec is a good motor, but on the expensive side. No doubt O.S. makes a good motor, just got to pay for it. I tried a .21, and then I dropped in a .28. The difference is night and day. Just the other day I ran my CRT against another CRT. I was running the LRP .28 Spec 3 and he had the Axial .28RR. In comparison, the LRP puts out so much more power. I would give the LRP a try. I've got over three gallons through it so far and it only cost $169 vs $300 for the O.S. V spec. If I were going to spend $300, I would throw in another $20 and get the O.S. 28XZ. A .21 is good for a buggy, but a truggy needs a .28 in my opinion.