timothy thompson

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this isnt turning into a flame war you do what you want and ill do my thing. I like the fact there is no mess and scale detailing is much better. yes ive lost a motor on my 310 last year a wire came loose. i dead sticked her in. The problem is fly the plane and not panic or overcontrol. electric is the future like it or not and the chance of a nichrome plug element going out is greater than an e problem esp. if you take care of the batts and the system.


have you heard the new sound systems that work on throttle settings very real. screaming glow engines dont sound right either. they record the sound of the exact plane you are working on. i am running opto escs so i have a seperate rx batt to run the servos if i lose the motors i dead stick in. not difficult if you know what your doing. take off is the one time any twin would go in if you lost power unless you got the nose down and went straight ahead

skubacb

Mike,
I have a pair of almost new Saito 72s. My aircraft will have the Robart retracts and not much else added. I 'thought' that since the prototype flew on the OS 70s that I would be just about the same with the Saitos. Do you have any thoughts?

I notice the scale spinners on some of the pictures. Where and what part are these?

shanksow

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Hi there Tim!

In point of fact, a lot of airplanes have only four bolts holding their wings on. A lot of general aviation. For example, I helped out with a rebuild of a Piper 140 and discovered that fact.

As for the B-25, I am surprise that I didn't even think to check the ARF forum until now for a TF B-25 thread. I've been checking the Twin and Warbird forums for anything on the TF B-25. Bombay, cockpit, etc details all look great. Keep up the great work. My B-25 still sits in its box taking up the couch in the living room (one of the benefits of being a bachlor and able to use yoru entire house as a workshop).

mike-rc

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Have fun trying to clean the oil off this plane, escpecially inside the wheel wells!

krproton

Cleaning off oily exhaust residue isn't TOO big of a deal--I'm running O.S. .70 Surpases and the only parts that get oil are the gear doors and part of the nacelles on the exhaust side--the other doors and the rest ot the nacelles don't get much oil on them. And I don't get any oil inside the nacelles. However, if flying (or taxiing) over grass, the propeller will deposit lots of grass fragments on the sides of the fuse and on the inside of the nose gear door.

mike-rc

My Feedback: (142)

I fly on a polo field where they cut the grass like every day. I always have little mounds of grass in my car from the clippings that fall out of my wheel pants. I know I am going to have to use my compressor to blow the grass out!
By the way Tim, nice article in Sport Flyer on the electric VenusII. I just submitted an article to them about a Hirobo CH-47 Chinook I converted to electric power.
Mike

norm

I'm not getting involved in this glow vs e-power thing!!! I am just not getting involved because my opinion is only favorable to glow engine.

mike-rc

My Feedback: (142)

Different strokes for different folks!

norm

That is right Mike, In my case it is 2 strokes or 4 strokes! One thing I know we all like this hobby... al lot.

mike-rc

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I had a feeling you would say something like that. That's what makes this such a great hobby. We all have the same interest in aviation right down to a particular aircraft, but there are many different ways of constructing and powering our models. In the end we will all be standing with a transmitter in our hands watching our B-25s fly with big smiles on our faces!

timothy thompson

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thats right but the way he said it wasnt really nice. ive been glow my entire rc career and had to endure the mess and the finger cuts ect! with e power just plug in the batts and fly . The sound generated by the prop tips is impressive. I started my engines witha smaller pack and had the bookshelf about to blow over.that was 3s imaging fully charged 6s 2P thats 10,000mah id blow a wall down.
Hey you can find a wife like mine that lets me use the entire house as a workshop. She says she knows where im at and even helps me hold the mag lite so i can see. Wait till she has to rivit the thing (she doesnt know this yet) She has no interest in flying but lets me do my thing. Go back a few pages and i posted her pic and my daughter and her hubby who just got a promotion from the army. They will be up here on the 24th

mike-rc

My Feedback: (142)

You are a lucky man Tim! By the way I'm with you on the electric thing. Once you go to electric theres no going back, but I can understand that some people like their glow engines. Someone has to keep Saito and OS in business.

diverdon

Tim,

I have decided to put a modified bomb bay in mine so I have 2 questions.

Did your front cut for the bomb bay hit the location of the nose wheel servo?

Second, In your post #134, picture #2 (view of rear fuslage after cut)
Can you give me the dimension from the center at the bottom to the top of your cut ( the area you removed)
Trying to find out how DEEP a peice has to be removed.

Thanks
Don

timothy thompson

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god i just tore out the servo holder and put a new one in thru the cockpit i have some pics here for you. the radio is the one i got for 100 cause the man died. i still feel bad its a futaba FP-7UAF SUPER can anyone tell me how old this is and where i can get a programming manual.
forst pic is my scale radio stack second shows servos the first up by the bulkhead operates the bay the second is the nose steering. DO NOT USE THAT BRAIDED CABLE GET SOME DIAL CORD FROM A OLD RADIO REPAIR SHOP AS IT WONT HANG UP ON RETRACTION

timothy thompson

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ok i looked at the pic. what i did was measure the area of the bomb bay and surround that in 3 layers of blue masking tape, the end cuts were made using a zona saw and the long side cuts were with a SHARP 11 blade. Now a used a smaller saw to cut through the formers and it fell out just like that. I didnt modify that pic. Use a torpedo level and find out where you need to shim for a flat floor ill pm you my number call me and ill talk you through this

timothy thompson

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I FOUND THE RADIO MANUAL ON A PDF FILE AND HAVE IT. I WOULD STILL LIKE TO KNOW THE YEAR OF MANUFACTURE

Jon Wise

Tim, You can download the manual from Futabas website. later Jon

beat098

what pipe did you use for the muffler.

timothy thompson

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no muffler e power

iflyf4u1a

My Feedback: (1)

Tim - beat098 was asking normandouellette about the muffler not you. We know e power uses no muffler. That's why e-power doesn't sound as nice as a couple of good 4 strokes on a great bird like this

krproton - when is Top Flite coming out with their ARC version of this plane like they did with the Giant Mustang? I want to do some kitbashing without taking the time to remove all that covering and paint.

norm

Hello Beat098,

The pipes I used are the 30 degree angle pipes that comes stock with the engine and cut it 1/4 inch out of the cowl in a 45 to follow the round of the cowl. If you do that you have to install the fuel pump. The VP30's only will work. Use the crankcase vent to activate the pump and make a t to drain the crankcase. Ask me some more if you need guidance on how to do this. You may look in previous postings around page 20 or so...Sorry just landed here. You may see how I set up the pumps and the pipe. It makes a neat job (messy when it works but the clean up is all worthed)

Normand

krproton

Hi "ifly."

ARC version of the B-25? Hey, I hear ya. I wish we would do one, but right now, I don't know of any plans to do so. What may help is if the company felt there would be enough demand for it. You need to contact Top Flite and let your feelings be known. You could write a letter, send an email, tell them in-person at a trade show or flying event, etc. If they heard from enough people that might do the trick.

I don't know, maybe you could start a thread with one of those polls asking how many would be interested in an ARC B-25.

I think some of the resistance comes from the additional spare parts we would have to carry in our inventory--first you have all the spares for the ARF version, then you have to double it for the ARC version. Seems like you (we) could do a one-time run where it's announced that no ARC spare parts would be available--if you had a crash and needed an outer wing panel or a horizontal stab for your ARC, you would have to buy the ARF one with the olive and gray MonoKote.

I can make that suggestion, but don't hold your breath.

But hey, we can try!

iflyf4u1a

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I have already emailed them about this and called. They told me the same thing you did that there were no plans for an ARC version [&o]. I was hoping you would have more current information and say "Yes, they are coming out with an ARC version of this plane!". Well, maybe they'll change their minds. I wouldn't be getting it for six months anyway because I have other projects in the works. But I was hoping ...

MLDELARUELLE

Hi all,

I just received mine today ! Very nice for christmas !
But I would like to have more info about the recommanded retracts at Tower Hobbies.
What is the diameter of the legs ? 3/16 ? More ?
I saw in the thread that someone break to leading retract. Does it happen to someone else ?

I think, 3/16 is good for 5 kilogram aicraft. But for a heavier one, it should be more.
Does anyone tried the Eurokit retracts ? One can ask them to drill the holes of the retracts for any diameter.

In my club, the runway is path of grass.

Thanks for any advice.
ML

timothy thompson

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have you heard outrunners with prop noise. sounds great also dont forget digital sound systems. Glow is messy and cranky. I should know i had all glow and when axis came out I converted all over to e . Only gas planes are my large zenoahs as they start every time and a stearman and lancair with saitos that run ok. I have a p-47 with a saito 80 and it takes forever to start . Once it does it runs very well at all power setting. But think of going to a field and just plugging a batt. NO cowl holes or ugly mufflers.

rc ken stated in the beginning this wasnt going to be a debate lets keep it that way. To each his own