Welcome to Club SAITO !
#8752
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
you're not going to get a "massive" increase in power going from a ys 63 to saito .82. i contacted ys for the recommended prop; MA 13x5 @ 11,500 rpm (that's what they recommend for 3D). it spools up fast. i'm not going to start a "ys vs. saito debate", they are both fairly comparable. IMO, i think that the saito .82 is just simpler.
jon
jon
#8754
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I'd like to pose a question re. exhaust gas temperature of a Saito 100. What is it likely to be with a well tuned engine?
The reason I'm asking is that I have one and am doing some exhaust system repair (long story) and need to know if silver solder (mp 430C) will hold a steel-to-steel connection, or do I need to braise?
Thanks to anyone who can help.
Ed
The reason I'm asking is that I have one and am doing some exhaust system repair (long story) and need to know if silver solder (mp 430C) will hold a steel-to-steel connection, or do I need to braise?
Thanks to anyone who can help.
Ed
#8756
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Thanks. The "silver" solder that I have has 4% silver, the remainder tin - a product called Stay Brite from one of the major hobby shops - Tower, I think. That may not fit your definition of "true" silver solder. I don't know too much about different solders.
I did spend about an hour trying to find out what a typical 4 stroke engine puts out for EGT without success. Any ideas?
I did spend about an hour trying to find out what a typical 4 stroke engine puts out for EGT without success. Any ideas?
#8757
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Stay Brite is great for soldering landing gear and such, but will melt out of an exhaust system like you are trying to do. Real silver solder takes a torch to melt and is almost as strong and heat resistant as a braise job.
#8758
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hey Chemoman, find a A/C repairman and get a stick of Sil Fos from him it will work on steel to steel and has a tensil strength greater than brazing, it will need flux, but so will the brass....unless you have ready access to brass, which will work........
gud luck
gud luck
#8759
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
A soldering iron or even a propane torch will not melt true silver solder.
A Map Gas or Acetylene torch is required.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas
It takes a Map Gas torch to burn it.
John and Red have the correct information
A Map Gas or Acetylene torch is required.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas
It takes a Map Gas torch to burn it.
John and Red have the correct information
#8760
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
HI All,
It's time to put new bearings in my Saito 82. I've rebuilt many two stoke engines but no four stokes. This Saito 82 will be my first rebuild. Can someone recommend a site or book I can read before I rebuild my 82?
Thanks
Chuck
It's time to put new bearings in my Saito 82. I've rebuilt many two stoke engines but no four stokes. This Saito 82 will be my first rebuild. Can someone recommend a site or book I can read before I rebuild my 82?
Thanks
Chuck
#8761
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
http://saito-engines.info/index.html
The main difference is the valve train
The timing mark goes straight down with the piston at the top. Valves adjust .002" to .004"
You will have to use a puller on the prop drive hub before you can ever get the crank out.
We can help you as questions arise
The main difference is the valve train
The timing mark goes straight down with the piston at the top. Valves adjust .002" to .004"
You will have to use a puller on the prop drive hub before you can ever get the crank out.
We can help you as questions arise
#8762
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Chuck, when I removed the screws on my .82's plastic back plate, I noticed they had been installed using a thread sealer. From past experience with Loctite on aluminum threads, I chased the threads on the screws and in the crankcase before re-assembly using Loctite. I assume this was done at the factory so the screws could be just run up snug without smashing or cracking the back plate.
#8763
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I ran my new .82 today for the 1st time.I used a APC 13X6 today my LHS didn't have a 14x4. The 1st tank was on the ground, rich, and low rpm. The rest, (5-6 flights) were done in the air with no cowling. Motor was never too hot to touch after landing. Power was good. My Edge 540 acts a lot different with the increase in power. I liked it. Only bad thing was fuel consumption. With my YS 63s I had 10 min. of full gas (260ml) now I have 6 min. on same tank with the .82. How far can I lean my HS needle out? What end position do you guys have on your .82 HS needles at after break-in? My .82 is 2 1/4 turns open right now. My YS63 HS needle was always set at 2 1/4 turns open after break in.
#8764
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Man, my 1.25 is really having issues
I have a new tank, new lines, and valves are just right. The problem is my max rpm is super irratic, up down up down at full throttle.
It does it rich or lean. at even a rich setting, it runs rich, then surges lean, then goes back rich. almost like there is an air leak or I am not getting a consistent fuel flow.
I did upgrade the size of fuel line going to the motor also
Thanks for the help
871
I have a new tank, new lines, and valves are just right. The problem is my max rpm is super irratic, up down up down at full throttle.
It does it rich or lean. at even a rich setting, it runs rich, then surges lean, then goes back rich. almost like there is an air leak or I am not getting a consistent fuel flow.
I did upgrade the size of fuel line going to the motor also
Thanks for the help
871
#8766
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: show871
Man, my 1.25 is really having issues
I have a new tank, new lines, and valves are just right. The problem is my max rpm is super irratic, up down up down at full throttle.
It does it rich or lean. at even a rich setting, it runs rich, then surges lean, then goes back rich. almost like there is an air leak or I am not getting a consistent fuel flow.
I did upgrade the size of fuel line going to the motor also
Thanks for the help
871
Man, my 1.25 is really having issues
I have a new tank, new lines, and valves are just right. The problem is my max rpm is super irratic, up down up down at full throttle.
It does it rich or lean. at even a rich setting, it runs rich, then surges lean, then goes back rich. almost like there is an air leak or I am not getting a consistent fuel flow.
I did upgrade the size of fuel line going to the motor also
Thanks for the help
871
ideas? It usually goes lean, then back to rich. is there a typical place it can leak air maybe??? is there some basic fuel line stuff I may have not done that could cause this? If there are bubbles in my fuel line to carb, but my tank is sealed ( brand new tank and lines)?????? if the fuel line is touching fuelsalage, or motor????
thanks
871
#8768
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: blw
It does sound like a leak somewhere.
Fuel lines are easy to nick. Is your manifold seated firmly into the cylinder head? Maybe bad fuel? I would try fuel out of another jug first. Then, look for leaks somewhere.
It does sound like a leak somewhere.
Fuel lines are easy to nick. Is your manifold seated firmly into the cylinder head? Maybe bad fuel? I would try fuel out of another jug first. Then, look for leaks somewhere.
Is it ok to have the fuel line touch the motor. I have seen bubbles in the fuel line into the carb......i am thinking this could be why it surges lean when it hits a bubble. new tank new lines, what could cause the bubbles?
#8770
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Thanks to everyone that commented on my solder question! Sounds like capital advice. I have brazing capability, so I'll try that first.
#8772
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I've had that problem with two strokes. I had the tank mounted to tight and it caused foaming in the tank which gave me bubbles in the fuel line. Check your tank and see if it is foaming. If not, then you still have an air leak somewhere.
When I said torch, I meant welding torch, not propane torch. Some times I know what I am saying, but it doesn't always come out right.
When I said torch, I meant welding torch, not propane torch. Some times I know what I am saying, but it doesn't always come out right.
#8774
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
OK tried the glow forum.........Now gonna see what happens here.
PLEASE READ ENTIRE POST Before offering suggestions?????
So far I get that it's concievable my tank is too high.
I also have low end tuned to a 1/16th of a turn upright (Runs like a top) move it 1/16th turn lean it stumbles and dies/move it 1/16th turn rich it stumbles and Revs.
ALSO why did I get 15-25 flights like a champ then out of the blue have probs?????
I had another club member take it home,disassemble,reassemble,mount and run PERFECT on stand, then remount in plane (inverted) same exact result......... I can Accept tank height but why the sudden change? Also lowering tank will be a pain in the wazoo and I am looking for other alternatives besides side mounting or upright.
Hi all, I have a U-C-D 60 with a Saito 100 that I believe is close to totally broken in, ( probably 25 flights or better).
At first it ran great now after a long while it refuses to run upside down.
Iv'e tried it both with and without Perry pump.
I've removed inspected tank and replaced all fuel lines and clunk.
I've tried to get it to run long enuff to adjust all needles.
I've changed plugs a few times.
I've tried to run it on my 30% heli mix.
I've tried to tune it with glow heat on.
I've checked valve clearance.
I've checked valve timing.
I've removed the (JUNK) easy fueling valve(permanently from all my planes)
BOTTOM LINE............................IT WONT RUN UPSIDE DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Flip it over and it ticks over @ 1850-1900 reliably, and spins a 16x4W APC @ 9600 on 15% wildcat.
Only problem now is it dies under High "G"s and idling vertical dives(I assume caused by low fuel draw at idle).......
HELP!!!!!!??????!!!!!! I know some one knows how to fix this as I've seen too many run inverted just fine.
What am I doing wrong? Is it my tank height? Is this a KNOWN problem with the 100/UCD setup?
Can I install a check valve to aid in the prevention of siphoning?
I really dont want to run it upright unless there is no other way (Dont Even SUGGEST side ways ) too Ugly!!!!
ANY IDEAS ARE welcome..........and before you say it ......I wont give it to you,I wont replace it with a YS (Maybe), Nor will I use it as a remote controlled weed eater.....
Thanks for your help guys. JIMMY
PLEASE READ ENTIRE POST Before offering suggestions?????
So far I get that it's concievable my tank is too high.
I also have low end tuned to a 1/16th of a turn upright (Runs like a top) move it 1/16th turn lean it stumbles and dies/move it 1/16th turn rich it stumbles and Revs.
ALSO why did I get 15-25 flights like a champ then out of the blue have probs?????
I had another club member take it home,disassemble,reassemble,mount and run PERFECT on stand, then remount in plane (inverted) same exact result......... I can Accept tank height but why the sudden change? Also lowering tank will be a pain in the wazoo and I am looking for other alternatives besides side mounting or upright.
Hi all, I have a U-C-D 60 with a Saito 100 that I believe is close to totally broken in, ( probably 25 flights or better).
At first it ran great now after a long while it refuses to run upside down.
Iv'e tried it both with and without Perry pump.
I've removed inspected tank and replaced all fuel lines and clunk.
I've tried to get it to run long enuff to adjust all needles.
I've changed plugs a few times.
I've tried to run it on my 30% heli mix.
I've tried to tune it with glow heat on.
I've checked valve clearance.
I've checked valve timing.
I've removed the (JUNK) easy fueling valve(permanently from all my planes)
BOTTOM LINE............................IT WONT RUN UPSIDE DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Flip it over and it ticks over @ 1850-1900 reliably, and spins a 16x4W APC @ 9600 on 15% wildcat.
Only problem now is it dies under High "G"s and idling vertical dives(I assume caused by low fuel draw at idle).......
HELP!!!!!!??????!!!!!! I know some one knows how to fix this as I've seen too many run inverted just fine.
What am I doing wrong? Is it my tank height? Is this a KNOWN problem with the 100/UCD setup?
Can I install a check valve to aid in the prevention of siphoning?
I really dont want to run it upright unless there is no other way (Dont Even SUGGEST side ways ) too Ugly!!!!
ANY IDEAS ARE welcome..........and before you say it ......I wont give it to you,I wont replace it with a YS (Maybe), Nor will I use it as a remote controlled weed eater.....
Thanks for your help guys. JIMMY