jay863fl

Anyone have any updates on the new Jammin? Like when it will be out and what will be changed?

phattracker

My Feedback: (1)

http://www.jamminproducts.com/x1crt.htm

evad1

thanks TURBO the diff is smooth when i turn it by hand. sorry it took so long i am trying to leave germany for good.

i do have a question about the chassis skid plate are the worth buying or are the junk?

Turboprop130

I wouldn't waste my money on skid plates, youre gonna scratch the bottom regardless. I would buy the mud guards if you don't have them already, they definitely keep a lot of crap out of the chassis.

P.S. I miss being drunk and hauling ***** in those german go carts. If you haven't, I recommend doing it before you leave...well, maybe not the drunk part. later bro

McFly505

Definitely run the skid plates.
They WILL extend the life of the chassis.

JB COMP<<<<>>>>The only way I have found to make the CRT turn on a dime is to install a BCE PJX chassis.

What you are describing is called an 'on power push'.

Instead of going into detail on my theories of what will fix it, I suggest you tinker and learn what components have an impact on what the truck does.

Example, the simplest thing to do would be to check ride height. If the front sits higher than the rear when on power, it could cause a push.
Tire tread type/compound plays a major role as well.

I always try to do the simplest thing that will solve the problem.

Just remember that if you add or take away in one area, you may create issues in another area of the trucks handling.

The absolute first thing I recommend doing is making sure every component is in good/proper working order.
If the shocks aren't equal or are leaking/different lengths/mis-matched oil types/weights, that is a problem that needs to be fixed before you can move on. Small things like bent hinge pins which cause a 'sticky' suspension movement, can wreak havoc and leave you scratching your head.
You need to develop your own standard base suspension setup.
Ride height, camber, toe, shock locations, sway bar settings, ackerman, camber link locations, etc.
As for the diffs, thinner oils make the truck easier to drive.
I like to run them as thick as I can.
I feel that thicker oils makes the truck more predictable in the turns, which is where you gain or lose most of your time on the track.

Once you have done these things, experiment with ONE thing at a time and see what the result is.

There is my $.02 worth.
Keep in mind that these are MY opinions and are subject to personal interpretation.

Hope that helps.


Scott

evad1

what is the best diff grease to use? it is the grease the goes on the ring and pinion thanks

jake

Turboprop130

Just so I'm clear on what you're asking... are we talking about diff grease or diff fluid? Also, are you stating where the grease goes or asking? Get back to me.

evad1

i was asking what brand to use on the ring & pinion. sorry for the confusion.

i also asked the same question on a hole new thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7399594/tm.htm

witch i got my answer and now people that did not know can get the answer. thanks i hope this answered you ?

jake

trx2.5maxx

anybody running .21 in their crt i want to get a new motor but need to know if a .21 will push it being heavier then most truggys and what motor recommended?

catkchun

Yup, i've been driving using AXE Rossi Mamba, it's a .21 engine on CRT. I felt it a bit lack of low end, other than that it's a perfect engine. Maybe I need a matching pipe for this engine as currently i'm using a pipe which give high rpm.

savagedan89

for more on power sterring remove front sway away bar

J24gordon

This is my new body before i go and ruin it lol

docphysics

Wow! Looks SWEET!!!

WizkY

I have buy a X1 crt and my engine is in the mail, so wich set up are u using for a lose track. shock and diff plzz

thank

J24gordon

7f,10m,3r shocks 45 front 50 rear

JB COMP

Okay, I need some help with my CRT with set-up.

I need to know how to set up the suspension, and how to get it to turn. My CRT had a turning radius of about 8 feet. I'm getting lock to lock steering.

Here's a short video of the track I run on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxrkSvu7V4Y

My current set-up is 40wt in the rear and 60wt in the front with stock pistons (shocks) the front are in the top middle (tower) and all the way in (arms) and the rear are top middle (tower) and all the way in (arms) I have blue stiff springs on there now (I have a set of red med springs but with those it seemed to bottom really easy)

My front wheels are towed out, and in rear have a 3.5 toe-in plate. I'm running 7k-30k-7k in my diffs (F-C-R)

If anyone can help me with my set-up I would really appreciate it.

J24gordon

Adjust your ackerman, i have mine set to the furthest forword hole and it turns in a 3-4' circle tops, i also run a 2.5 toe in plate @ the rear,if you use a lighter weight oil in the rear it should help with power steering as well 7f-10m-3r

JB COMP

What's the ackerman? (stupid question I'm sure)

J24gordon

here is the ackerman I have mine set all the way forward

JB COMP

Thanks, I'll try that next time I run.

ecocav04

remove all the sway bars run 45 wt in the front 40 in the rear run the diffs 20-30-1 it will give you tons of onpower steering

catkchun

guys, need your help. I have CRT with diff 5-10-3, 55wt front & 40wt rear shock. Using STS 30 engine with Tornado fuel. Question, whenever i came out from a turning, my truggy will run like wigglling, and it's way to hard to control. How to resolve this issue? (btw, i'm using 13T SB). Thanks for your help!

phattracker

My Feedback: (1)

I'd try going up in your oil weights. Like 10-20-7 perhaps. The motor is strong and its spinning the wheels a little to strong I'm guessing. I mix my diff oil using the GE silicone calculator. http://www.gesilicones.com/gesilwiza...ng/fluid2.html What I run ends up being real close to 12.5-20-7. I can drive the heck out of it. lol

catkchun

May I know what engine are run?

catkchun

Does anyone know Front Lower Arm for X2 can fit X1 CRT? I just broke my front arm.[]