TA152

Hi. It's a Menz propeller

splais

My Feedback: (25)

thanks much. That looks like a super product. [X(]

kahloq

Think I might take a look at those connectors too

Redback

If you are confident with soldering you can use a 15 pin D type connection. This is what I have done with my ESM 72" 109. Velcro on the connector and the side of the fuse stops it bouncing around in flight.

Terry

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

Nice connector. should save a lot of finicky connections. Thanks for the hint.

Here's the link for anyone who likes it too



http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...ndex&cPath=153

ptdan

Hi
I am about to maiden my BF, what is the best cg.. The manuel says 143mm, is that correct???
Regards Dan

eyadoo2

Hello Ramstein44

how the motor worked after modification ( dle55)
is their any problem and did you recommend this modification

if you have a video to show how the motor worked I will be very reconnaissance if you can show that

regards

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

What modification?

eyadoo2

This modification page 10 Post #234

Ramstein44

My Feedback: (157)

That mod was only a consideration... Not seriously realistic as noted further in the thread. Since then; as I'm sure you know, the Dle55RA is/was the solution to this method. That is what I would suggest.

96TT

My ESM 50cc BF-109 has flown. The honors for the maiden went to a fellow club member who's a much better pilot as I am with a lot of big scale experience. Since this is my first big scale plane I didn't trust myself enough to do the maiden myself. It flies pretty stable but we are not there yet. Still some teething problems. It has a DLE 55RA for power and the AUW is about 13,5kg, thats roughly 30 pounds. I've got the CofG somewhere between 120 and 125mm form the leading edge. It needed a lot of up-trim to fly level. The landing during the first flight was done without flaps. Just after lift of during the third flight the plane suddenly dipped severely. My test pilot could recover but not avoiding the landing gear slamming on the ground. Luckily the plane didn't nosed over and flew further. After this contact both wheels had a severe tow out orientation so we didn't retracted the landing gear. The landing went well without a nose over. After inspection we saw that the struts of my sierra landing gear were bent. Bugger! I also uploaded a film of the first flight although it isn't much to look at.

My Swiss Bf-109G6 ready for its first sortie.



The bent strut of my Sierra gear. The other strut is also bent, but less severe.



The first flight.

<font size="2"><span style="font-family:arial;"> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aB0lSnFgBtA&amp;feature=youtu.be greetings kjel

eyadoo2

hello
How did you fix the wing i see in my kit that their is no fixation to hold the wing
any one can help and show some images how we can assembly the wing with the airplane

regards

96TT

Hi eyadoo2,

Approximately in middle of the endrip of the wing there is blind nut. With help of the riptemplate, which you use also to drill the holes for the anti rotationpins, you can drill the hole in the fuselage for the wingbolts. The wingbolts are not included with the kit. You Will need M6 bolts.

greetings kjel

eyadoo2

Thanks 96TT for the information

do you have time to make some pictures

Trig302

G'day everyone,

After some 18 months following your wonderful thread here as a non-member, I recently bought this ESM 50cc 109 kit based on what I had viewed and read here on this forum. I became a member last night (better late than never they say)

Much kudos to those who added incredible scale detail to their aircraft, the results are sensational to say the very least..thank you for sharing ideas, tips and results.

I'm still organising a suitable build space here in my office - need to cull a heap of stored items in it...

Cheers,

kahloq

"Winter is coming". Now that flying weather is getting more scarce due to the impeding cold descending from the north, I'll have more time to work on the various planes in queue including this me-109g as well.

Katniss

Adding subscription for later reference.

HoundDog

My Feedback: (49)

That's the reason GOD made Arizona and Retirement ... hang in there U'll make it someday. U can only hope.
O'l Gezzers Rule.



<------ 6 months here ... 6 in Apache Junction AZ

Katniss

Um k?

deadstick79

are these the wheels suggested a while back?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWAB4&P=SM



Sorry, this post was meant for another thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

kahloq

No...those are WWI wheels.
However...these here would be ok for the 109. But...you need to put some foam inserts inside the rubber tire or they will flatten out real quick.
http://www.activepowersports.com/wil...-522-diameter/

I used the 3 1/2" size on a CMP me-109 and while they look good....they don't handle side load well at all.
Aside from Glenns....the ESM 4.5" aluminum hub wheels look decent enough...and I don't mean the newer lightweight aluminum hubbed ones.

These are what im talking about:
http://www.bigplanes.nl/contents/en-uk/p1088.html

Arfpros.com may still have some in stock. Send them an email if you like the wheels. Otherwise....Williams bros balloon style may work

Katniss

Hello...

This is my first time documenting a build process for any plane on a forum. Please bare with me as some things I may feel like I need to elaborate on or explain why I did something the way I have.

To start off...as anyone that has been part of the esm 50cc me-109 thread knows, the plane has a tubular fiberglass motor mount. The walls of this cylinder are VERY thin in my opinion. Initially, after pulling the plane out of the box, I had intended not to use the cylinder as I was not confident it was strong enough.
There are only two locations inside the nose that the cylinder even touches for a glue joint and both former(very thin) and forward internal nose only provided a total of about 1" width wise(in a circular fashion around the motor tube) for a glue joint. This just boggles my mind and I didn't feel there was any where near enough surface contact to keep the motor tube in place with a large motor pulling on it...either gas or electric(as I am doing).

After thinking about it for awhile....I decided to try and make it work and modify things as I go.
First problem I ran into was that the motor mount plate for the rimfire 65cc outrunner is more wide then high...so not a square or X pattern. This caused a problem because the motor tube is only so big and I couldn't get the motor shaft to like up centered in the cowl and still have all 4 motor mount standoffs solidly on the motor tube.
To get around this, I opted to cut the motor tube down by 1 1/4" and then build a wood box on top of the motor tube that's big enough to accommodate the standoff spacing.
This is a positive in that the thin walled fiberglass motor tube is now shorter and now there is less available area to break or fracture under stress.

The wood box I affixed to the end of the motor tube is made out of some wood plates and 1/2' stick wood in a sandwich format. The bottom wood plate is glued AND bolted using blind nuts to the front of the fiberglass motor cylinder tube. The top plate is then glued to the wood stick spacers and then ALSO bolted all the way through to the motor tube again with bolts/blind nuts.
The standoffs and rimfire65's motor mount plate is bolted to the front wood plate through the standoffs with 4 bolts/blind nuts as well. This whole box/motor setup is not going anywhere.

I was still concerned about the fragility of the fiberglass motor tube both outside(ahead of the front of the fiberglass fuselage) and internally. I felt that in the event of a nose over or hard landing, the thin walled motor tube could crack or crush/fail pretty badly over time. Maybe Im being overly cautious, but to prevent any such failure, I glued some 1/2" pine wood sticks to the outside of the motor tube up front and inside the tube as well in an effort to stiffen it up. This also gives a lot more surface area for glue joints so the tube itself cant simply pull out of the plane due to lack of surface area adhesion. See pictures.

Were I to install a gas motor, I would have done the same...especially since there seems to be a lot of vibration from gas engines.

I've also made sure there was a slight bit of right thrust present. The motor tube provided MORE then needed...probably 4 degrees, so I shimmed the right side standoffs to push the motors output shaft left a bit. Ultimately, there is still about 2 degrees of right thrust. See picture please.

The images I am attaching both show before and after extra wood has been added for strengthening purposes. This I hope is to show why I did what I did.

thunder21

My Feedback: (2)

Katniss, I think if I were going to convert this model to electric, I'd have just cut the whole front of the fuselage off and made new formers and motor mounts which would accommodate getting the batteries as far forward as I could. Have you tried to balance the model with your batteries installed yet?

deadstick79

What I would do is get a tube of Silicone caulk for exterior windows and doors and tool a nice thick bead where the cylinder meets the firewall. I would also smutz some around the inside of the fuse also, by putting some on my finger and tooling it in there. Smooth it in good by using a wet finger tip of spit! Yes, I said spit... water doesn't work!
Been doing siding and windows for 41 years
Make sure the silicone is 100 percent... none of this acrylic stuff
just my dos pesos ;-)
Dan
Edit.... check out these batts... gotta love the length compared to turnigy nanos' http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...6S1P_30C_.html

kahloq

That shouldn't be necessary. When I built the smaller CMP me-109....the flight batteries sat right over the wing saddle. I don't think Katniss is going to have any problems balancing this plane. It also looks like she's put a good amount of wood beams and slathered in some gorilla glue in the nose. From what I see, she's done a pretty darn good job.