Welcome to Club SAITO !
#951
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
WELL just went threw 37 pages on this thread took awhile[ LOL].
I HAVE A SAITO 100 in my H9 Corsair I know that after buying the 100
I got to have more& more saitos, selling 2cycles to replace in my others
with saito 4strokes. man I love them 4bangers
Would be greatfull to be a member of your saito club if I may?
I HAVE A SAITO 100 in my H9 Corsair I know that after buying the 100
I got to have more& more saitos, selling 2cycles to replace in my others
with saito 4strokes. man I love them 4bangers
Would be greatfull to be a member of your saito club if I may?
#953
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have purchased a Kyosho Oxalys 50 and intend to use a Saito 82a in same
The preferred position of the fuel tank is on the CofG to minimise trim change as tank empties. This is too far back to rely on fuel draw.I seem to recall Bill Robinson ( THE Saito Guru ) mention someplace that a perry pump can be used to feed - excuse my ignorance but do these work on crancase pressure or what. I seem to recall that they were traditionally used with 2 strokes that had 'sealed' crankcases. How do they work with a 4 stroke and can anyone recomend a part or model number
The preferred position of the fuel tank is on the CofG to minimise trim change as tank empties. This is too far back to rely on fuel draw.I seem to recall Bill Robinson ( THE Saito Guru ) mention someplace that a perry pump can be used to feed - excuse my ignorance but do these work on crancase pressure or what. I seem to recall that they were traditionally used with 2 strokes that had 'sealed' crankcases. How do they work with a 4 stroke and can anyone recomend a part or model number
#954
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have two types of Perry. One in my old OS Gemini twin which uses crankcase pressure. The other I had bought (but do not use) is for a single cylinder engine and relies on vibration to oscilate the pump. Very specific mounting ijnstructions for best results. The pressure pump is a "30" type I think and the vibration one a "20". I am at work so will have to check the actual numbers for you, unless someone else here can help in teh short term.
Cheers,
TC
Cheers,
TC
#955
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I flew my RCM 40 yesterday with one of the last Saito .50s available, I was using S&W 15% Hi Rev fuel and a 12x7 ProZinger. What a combo for economy, I flew my usual 12 minutes with the radio timer set and took my good ole time landing. I had used less than a third of the tank of fuel, I flew another 12 minutes and still didn't use it down to half. The .50 is a winner in every way. Take offs using the 12x7 were very short affairs. The RCM is surprisingly fast set up this way.
Ernie, I just saw your comment about the .50, Jim answered your question, I didn't see it til now. Now that I have tried the 12x7 ProZinger on the .56 I think it is too much prop for both the .50 and .56. I guess the 12x7 was like overdrive, hence the economy.
Ernie, I just saw your comment about the .50, Jim answered your question, I didn't see it til now. Now that I have tried the 12x7 ProZinger on the .56 I think it is too much prop for both the .50 and .56. I guess the 12x7 was like overdrive, hence the economy.
#956
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Thunderchild and Evansh you are both right on the PERRY PUMPS the VP-30 is the 3 line pulse pump usaully used on 2 strokes, but if set up right works very well on a 4 stroke. Place a 1in tube onto the case vent then a T. Out of the T one end should be over 3-4in to vent case and the other a 1in end goes to pump pulse line.
The VP-20 is the 2 line Vibration pump and goes in line before your main needle valve, The trick on those is to NOT mount them with fuel outlets up and down, always side to side and at least 1.5in off the crank center line. I usaully bolt them hanging off the bottom of the fire wall to get the best pumping action. This may differ from the VP-20 instruction but that advise came from Perry directly.
If I need to really draw fuel, say from a tank on CG set up then I go with the VP-30, If I just want a nice light positive fuel pressure then I run the VP-20
The VP-20 is the 2 line Vibration pump and goes in line before your main needle valve, The trick on those is to NOT mount them with fuel outlets up and down, always side to side and at least 1.5in off the crank center line. I usaully bolt them hanging off the bottom of the fire wall to get the best pumping action. This may differ from the VP-20 instruction but that advise came from Perry directly.
If I need to really draw fuel, say from a tank on CG set up then I go with the VP-30, If I just want a nice light positive fuel pressure then I run the VP-20
#957
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hi guys, great forum, I just found it. I need to be a member. I have a 56, 82, 3 100, 150, 2 180's and I am interested in the twins and radial. The problem is info from Horizon is minimal. Where can I get info on the twins and radials, thanks, Hawkeye
#958
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Hello,
Is there a velocity stack available for the 82? The engine is mounted sideways in a Funtana 40 and it gets pretty wet inside the cowl. I'm not seeing any fuel or crankcase pressure leaks and the crancase vent is routed outside of the cowl. I'm thinking that the carb is causing the wetness by excess fuel spray.
RFan #100
Is there a velocity stack available for the 82? The engine is mounted sideways in a Funtana 40 and it gets pretty wet inside the cowl. I'm not seeing any fuel or crankcase pressure leaks and the crancase vent is routed outside of the cowl. I'm thinking that the carb is causing the wetness by excess fuel spray.
RFan #100
#960
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: rfan_1
Hello,
Is there a velocity stack available for the 82? The engine is mounted sideways in a Funtana 40 and it gets pretty wet inside the cowl. I'm not seeing any fuel or crankcase pressure leaks and the crancase vent is routed outside of the cowl. I'm thinking that the carb is causing the wetness by excess fuel spray.
RFan #100
Hello,
Is there a velocity stack available for the 82? The engine is mounted sideways in a Funtana 40 and it gets pretty wet inside the cowl. I'm not seeing any fuel or crankcase pressure leaks and the crancase vent is routed outside of the cowl. I'm thinking that the carb is causing the wetness by excess fuel spray.
RFan #100
Look here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3346422
#962
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: w8ye
I'm wrong. They are in stock again...
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...odID=SAI50GK93
Enjoy,
Jim
I'm wrong. They are in stock again...
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...odID=SAI50GK93
Enjoy,
Jim
#963
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
All:
Sorry, I've been occupied with other things, I've let this get head of me. I'll catch up on questions next.
Here are some new members, and two prospects.
130 fredscz
131 kevhunt
132 skypupmut
133 Lowlevlflyer
134 John Hanske
135 PROP-WASH
136 evansh
137 Hawkeye438
-----------
larksrc and rpmrpm:
Are you Saito fliers? Tell me yes and I'll add you to the list.
Bill.
Sorry, I've been occupied with other things, I've let this get head of me. I'll catch up on questions next.
Here are some new members, and two prospects.
130 fredscz
131 kevhunt
132 skypupmut
133 Lowlevlflyer
134 John Hanske
135 PROP-WASH
136 evansh
137 Hawkeye438
-----------
larksrc and rpmrpm:
Are you Saito fliers? Tell me yes and I'll add you to the list.
Bill.
#966
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
rfan_1:
You are indeed. Thanks for catching my error, and please excuse it. It now has been corrected.
Bill.
I am already number 100 on the List.
Bill.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
So, if you are having problems with the 82, then would the same thing might happen with MY Funtana with a Saito 100. Is my cowl going to be filled with fuel?
Now, this velocity stack, you just put that over the carb, and it will prevent from the fuel fill up in the carb?
Thanks
~Michael~
Now, this velocity stack, you just put that over the carb, and it will prevent from the fuel fill up in the carb?
Thanks
~Michael~
#971
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
The velocity stack keeps the fuel mist that's ju8st outside your carb when running from blowing all over the engine and the engine compart.
If you have fuel running out of your carb when the engine is not running the velocity stack will not help you. You will need to lower your tank.
Enjoy,
Jim
If you have fuel running out of your carb when the engine is not running the velocity stack will not help you. You will need to lower your tank.
Enjoy,
Jim
#973
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
William Robison;
Thank you for the analysis of the 325R3 on the other thread. I assumed since the pistons were the same for the 65 and the 325 that it would have been made from the 65 with the same stroke. Lately sometimes I have been wrong tho.
I have the old 325 but wonder what the difference is between that and the 325R3D?
Please add me to your list of Satisified Owners..
Thank you for the analysis of the 325R3 on the other thread. I assumed since the pistons were the same for the 65 and the 325 that it would have been made from the 65 with the same stroke. Lately sometimes I have been wrong tho.
I have the old 325 but wonder what the difference is between that and the 325R3D?
Please add me to your list of Satisified Owners..
#974
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Mr Robison :::: First off many thanks from I and the rest of the Club Saaeeettoo family for the remedies and information, but I have one more that I am uncertain of, I noticed in a couple of threads that you mention the valve setting to be .002, is this correct ? Always thought it was in the .003 range, maybe someone else is interested in this also, thanks again for a great job for us novices......
#975
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
OK, let’s try to do a lilttle catch-up.
First, there was a question about the crankcase for the FA-120.The newest case will still fit the oldest engine, provided the rear crankshaft bearing is replaced. The early engines had a smaller outside diameter on the rear bearing. Production code letter on the mounting lug doesn’t help to ID, I have two otherwise identical FA-120 engines, same code letter, and one has the smaller bearing, the other has the big one.
--------------------
Tom:
Using a flat jeweler’s file clean the top end of your valve stems, you’ll find they slide right in with no resistance afterward. You DO have the ridges, else they would already slide all the way freely.
Metric “C” clips? Well, the clips in the Saito aren’t really C clips, that’s just a convenient name to use. I don’t think a real C clip would work. If it fits the groove it will be too small on its OD, and probably too thin anyway.
Glad you found the air bleed post.
---------------------
Michael:
We’ve been back and forth on the oil too many times to spend much more time on it, but pure synthetic doesn’t lubricate the cam lobes as well as castor, when I see a basdly worn cam I know it’s been run on all synthetic.
-------------------
GSNut:
Good trick on holding the cam for installation, I just use an Xacto knife.
---------------------
Hawkeye:
We haven’t discussed the twins and radials here, but there are several other threads that get pretty deep into them – all in “Glow Engines” forum.
-----------------
Rfan:
For maximum benefit with the intake stack be sure it is at least relatively air tight where it meets the carb, and then add a Bru-Line fine mesh air filter. This will catch the last of the “Back flow” fuel in addition to giving the protection of an air filter. I’ve not noticed any performance loss, if you’re worried about that.
------------------
Old Roy Pilot:
The only difference between the early FA-325R5 and the later supplied engines is the later ones got the hot cams when the single cylinder engines did; about ten years ago. The FA-325R5D (not R3D) is the latest version, instead of the single plugs on the older engines the R5D has two plugs in each cylinder.
--------------------
John:
Running the valve clearance as tight as you can has two advantages. Decreasing the clearance bu 0.002” obviously gives that much more lift, not enough to make any difference. But at the same time it also gives the valves more open time, and this adds power that can be felt. That same 0.002” decrease also gives you eight degrees more duration. And this is eight degrees on both valves, a total of 16 degrees more breathing time for the engine.
And it’s a lot easier on the valve gear; greatly decreasing the hammering. Let’s consider an airstrip that is level for the first half, and then all of a sudden curves up at a 45 degree angle. Now consider your landing speed to be so high that the plane goes all the way up this slope, stopping at the top where it levels out. For a smooth landing with the least stress on the plane you would want to touch down on the first level part, rolling gently into the slope. The other way to land there is to fly level over the low part of the runway five feet off the ground, and hit the 45 degree slope. At the very least you’ll bend the nose gear, maybe break the prop, and certainly give the plane a real shock.
So what does this have to do with valve adjustment? You’ve already figures it out, but I’ll say it anyway. When the cam turns the base circle is that lower level part of the runway, and the tappet is your plane. Running minimum clearance we’re landing on the lower level area, but with loose adjustment you’re smacking your nose (and the tappet) on the side of the hill, or the ramp of the cam lobe.
The late Saito cams have a “Quieting” ramp leading into the true ramp of the cam, this quieting ramp is intended to take up all the free play in the valve gear, they are 0.002” high. By setting the clearance at that same 0.002” you have eliminated all hammering, and are getting maximum duration.
The older Saito cams do not have the quieting ramp, they can be set at 0.0005” clearance and run fine. If you want to try the 0.0005” clearance you wont hurt anything, but if the engine has the quieting ramp the power will be down – just go back to the 0.002” setting. If there’s no ramp you will again have a power gain over the 0.002” setting.
---------------------
If I’ve missed anything, please ask again.
Bill.
First, there was a question about the crankcase for the FA-120.The newest case will still fit the oldest engine, provided the rear crankshaft bearing is replaced. The early engines had a smaller outside diameter on the rear bearing. Production code letter on the mounting lug doesn’t help to ID, I have two otherwise identical FA-120 engines, same code letter, and one has the smaller bearing, the other has the big one.
--------------------
Tom:
Using a flat jeweler’s file clean the top end of your valve stems, you’ll find they slide right in with no resistance afterward. You DO have the ridges, else they would already slide all the way freely.
Metric “C” clips? Well, the clips in the Saito aren’t really C clips, that’s just a convenient name to use. I don’t think a real C clip would work. If it fits the groove it will be too small on its OD, and probably too thin anyway.
Glad you found the air bleed post.
---------------------
Michael:
We’ve been back and forth on the oil too many times to spend much more time on it, but pure synthetic doesn’t lubricate the cam lobes as well as castor, when I see a basdly worn cam I know it’s been run on all synthetic.
-------------------
GSNut:
Good trick on holding the cam for installation, I just use an Xacto knife.
---------------------
Hawkeye:
We haven’t discussed the twins and radials here, but there are several other threads that get pretty deep into them – all in “Glow Engines” forum.
-----------------
Rfan:
For maximum benefit with the intake stack be sure it is at least relatively air tight where it meets the carb, and then add a Bru-Line fine mesh air filter. This will catch the last of the “Back flow” fuel in addition to giving the protection of an air filter. I’ve not noticed any performance loss, if you’re worried about that.
------------------
Old Roy Pilot:
The only difference between the early FA-325R5 and the later supplied engines is the later ones got the hot cams when the single cylinder engines did; about ten years ago. The FA-325R5D (not R3D) is the latest version, instead of the single plugs on the older engines the R5D has two plugs in each cylinder.
--------------------
John:
Running the valve clearance as tight as you can has two advantages. Decreasing the clearance bu 0.002” obviously gives that much more lift, not enough to make any difference. But at the same time it also gives the valves more open time, and this adds power that can be felt. That same 0.002” decrease also gives you eight degrees more duration. And this is eight degrees on both valves, a total of 16 degrees more breathing time for the engine.
And it’s a lot easier on the valve gear; greatly decreasing the hammering. Let’s consider an airstrip that is level for the first half, and then all of a sudden curves up at a 45 degree angle. Now consider your landing speed to be so high that the plane goes all the way up this slope, stopping at the top where it levels out. For a smooth landing with the least stress on the plane you would want to touch down on the first level part, rolling gently into the slope. The other way to land there is to fly level over the low part of the runway five feet off the ground, and hit the 45 degree slope. At the very least you’ll bend the nose gear, maybe break the prop, and certainly give the plane a real shock.
So what does this have to do with valve adjustment? You’ve already figures it out, but I’ll say it anyway. When the cam turns the base circle is that lower level part of the runway, and the tappet is your plane. Running minimum clearance we’re landing on the lower level area, but with loose adjustment you’re smacking your nose (and the tappet) on the side of the hill, or the ramp of the cam lobe.
The late Saito cams have a “Quieting” ramp leading into the true ramp of the cam, this quieting ramp is intended to take up all the free play in the valve gear, they are 0.002” high. By setting the clearance at that same 0.002” you have eliminated all hammering, and are getting maximum duration.
The older Saito cams do not have the quieting ramp, they can be set at 0.0005” clearance and run fine. If you want to try the 0.0005” clearance you wont hurt anything, but if the engine has the quieting ramp the power will be down – just go back to the 0.002” setting. If there’s no ramp you will again have a power gain over the 0.002” setting.
---------------------
If I’ve missed anything, please ask again.
Bill.