danrc2

fytrjok,
what did you do to weather your 25. it looks great. is it air brushed?

let me know.

thanks
dan

COL J

Normand,

Here is the web site for the Rosie Riveter:

[link]http://www.flitemetal.com[/link]

COL J

Let's try this again.


http://www.flitemetal.com

COL J

[link]http://www.flitemetal.com[/link]

timothy thompson

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you guys will not be sorry order 1/6 strips and remeber the resin is NOT elmurs glue. I made a comparison and elmurs will not work. When ordering ask ed for a photocd of the b-25 he sent me one with 500 pics at no charge. Ed is for real a true gentleman who you can trust! he lives in texas and has access to these birds.
you will need two sets of strips and 3-4 bottles of resin depending if you do the bottom or not. Asjk for a sample of flite metal. its incredible stuff that the jet guys use. it can be polished to a mirror finish or left flat. then rosie is applied. Incredible effects and its all explained on the web site

snoop42

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Does anyone who did bomb bay doors on their B-25 want to do a how-to for the rest of us? It seems a lot of people would like operating doors on their plane but are a little uneasy about cutting into their fuselage. Photos, parts used. measurements, etc. would be great. Also include your bomb release mechanism if you use one.
Thanks guys, excellent thread!

Snoop42

timothy thompson

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start at the beginning and look at how i did it. Im not being a jerk here but if you are an intermediate or below modeler please dont try this. Have a experienced modeler do it. I measured the dimensions and used blue masking tape then the end cuts were made with a new zona saw. the side cuts were made with a sharp #11. you will have formers to sut through so use the razor saw. I scratch all the interior no i didnt vacuform parts and i dont sell kits (should have thought of it though) i dont have a vacuform machine

read the thread as there are a couple of us who did a really nicejob on it. any questions pm me and ill give my number and i can talk you through it

timothy thompson

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more pics

timothy thompson

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heres a better rivet pic. they still are milky and will become x-tal clear

timothy thompson

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man i looked at the outer panels and tf had to provide room for scale landing lights. I cant contain myself two more mini mags! ill buy 3 and keep one

sevans16

Well, this thread and all the pretty pics has turned me. I just got one of these beast on order. I want to build it pretty much stock but I do like the rivet idea!! That looks like a way cool detail. I hope someone starts an index for this thread like I have seen on the TF kit build threads. I am looking for some alum wheels and a few other easy mods. Almost 1000 posts to read through!!!!

timothy thompson

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robart and glennis for wheels pricy



flitemetal.com for rivets (you wont be sorry)

fytrjok

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Thanks guys for all the great comments! It really makes it fun when others enjoy your passion as much as you do! The nosewheel is just a stock Robart 2 3/4" diamond tread wheel. I did paint the hubs silver for a more scale look even though I know the hubs on the mains were 16 spoke on the full scale. My buddy Bruno (Flyingchef) is a skilled builder and has stripped his and is going to do the full tour...glassing, sanding, priming, etc. I don't have to patience or the wherwithall for all of that. I just wanted to enjoy my favorite part of the "build"...the finishing. Weathering was accomplished in a few simple steps. First, I looked at as many pics of full scale examples as I could find to see how and where the aircraft weathered. Then I drew panel lines according to the best threeviews I could find. A finepoint sharpee works great. I then prepared the surface by lightly sanding with 400 grit...this lightened up the monokote a bit and brought out some of the underlying detail, especially in the flight control surfaces. It also helps paint to stick better. Make sure you use front to back strokes when sanding. Application of the Flitemetal on the leading edges and in strategic locations really enhances details. I got the Flightmetal from Dino at Aero-accessories. I like to use the nipple end of a Robart pressure guage to make the rivet indentations. I then oversprayed the Flitemetal with Lustrekote OD green. After it was dry, a light application of emorypaper along the leading edges wears away the paint in a most scalelike manner. Also, a little silver paint applied with a toothpick at panel line joints gives the illusion of underlying aluminum. After all the detailing is done, my Badger 150-1-IL airbrush takes over. I use well thinned Testors Model Master Flat Black to subtly darken panel lines on the downwind sides. Take care here...less is more...subtle hints of darkening add to the illusion. After I'm happy with everything I call my wife down to scrutinize. Her eye often picks up things I have gotten too close to or refuse to see. She keeps me honest. Finally, a very light onceover with steel wool blends things and gets me ready for the Flat Clear Lustrekote. This will yellow under then sun adding to the overall effect...should be spectacular in a couple of years!
Cutting in the bomb bay isn't really that hard. It does take patience and time. Take notice that you'll have to relocate the nosewheel steering servo and mount to a more foreward location (I think the designers should do this on subsequent runs of this model). Scale location can be found in available documentation and is roughly between leading edge of wing and leading edge of inboard flap. Draw it on the Monokote before you cut. I made my initial cuts with a new #11 blade only through the balsa sheeting. A razor saw will cut through the ply bulkheads and stringers. There is a center part of the ply bulkheads that runs top to bottom of each bulkhead and is kind of hard to reach. If you gently pull open the newly cut structure the saw will reach inside to cut the two or three center bulkhead components. Once the bay has been removed it needs to be carefully cut in half, reinforced as needed and hinged. I used 1/64th" ply to cover the inside of the doors and used my Dremel to whittle the holes. Close off internal structure (I used 1/16" balsa sheeting) and add a servo bay. Look at the location pics on this thread for the servo. While Timothy and Bruno used Nelson hinges, I just used the small Dubro piano type hinges, four to a side and epoxied them in. Some trial and error is necessary to make sure nothing is binding before you glue. The geometry of the pushrods and the horns takes some trial and error...do one side at a time. Bomb release is simple...load bombs in bay, close doors, fly, open doors, bombs fall out. Simple. Or you could do some really intricate sequenced Greg Hahn sort of thing...right Bruno?
I hope this answers some of the questions asked. Lots of weathering info can be found on RCU and at rcscalebuilder.com. So much great info out there...get as much as you can and then DIVE IN!!

Doug

camdyson

Thanks Doug - appreciate the details.

All the "bits" have finally got here for mine (shipping from the 'States really slow over Christmas this year - Ebay-ers to blame I suspect!) so can finally start work. Shudder to think what the whole lot adds up to, will have to forget before test-fly day .

One question - maybe "Kryptonite" Tim can answer - are the ply modules in the nacelles fuelproofed? The wood has a funny varnished texture to it, so thought someone may have saved us the trouble.

Happy New Year

Cam

timothy thompson

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well one small air tank pumped to 70 gets me 7 cycles. i got everything installed and all i have to do is shrink wrap two leads and the electronics are done. looks like a chineese fire drill in there thank god for specktrum and no interference. the only thing it i must sequence the gear to the down position and wait a minute before i add air. the air nipple will be hidden in the bomb bay under a scale fitting. now those wing landing lights WHY DID TF MAKE IT SO EASY TO PUT THEM IN IM SICK!

diverdon

Tim,
It's also very easy to add nav lights on the wing tips and the rear strobes and they do make a big difference.

Don

timothy thompson

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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO I HAVE A GOOD WEIGHT SO ILL ASSEMBLE THE PLANE AND SEE WHERE IM AT. IVE GOT THREE LIGHT STOBES IN MY CORSAIR THEY ARE GREAT

diverdon

I'm anxious to see what AUW you come up with.

I think you went the right way with the Rx. I'm going to move mine to the bay and that should save me a lot of extensions.

When I do a low pass over you with the strobes blinking your going to eat your heart out.

BTW:

Happy New Year to ALL!

Don

krproton

Hi Cam.

The nacelles are fuelproofed. They have a thin coat or two of clear paint/epoxy on them, but the coats aren't sanded in between so that's why you get the rough finish. Since little or no fuel or exhaust residue gets in there the nacelles are fine as is. Still, when I was assembling my own, personal B-25, I didn't like the rough finish, so I lightly sanded them using 400-grit sandpaper and used an airbrush to apply a coat of gray LustreKote (sprayed into a container through a tube). It's kind of a waste of time because you can't see the nacelles anyway, but that's the kind of thing I do to make my self sleep better at night! [sm=bananahead.gif]

Tim

timothy thompson

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Tim your missing the outer panels! elecktroplane?? HA HA

MLDELARUELLE

All,

First of all, happy new year ! Health and for sure, many B25 flying around the world !

May maybe "Kryptonite" Tim could give us some explanation about the choice of the retracts .... In fact, I would like Tim's opinion before ordering the retracts.

Thanks
ML

sevans16

Well they sell the Robart retracts that are made just for this plane. I would imagine, that is what will be recommended!!!

krproton

Hi ML.

Here's the story on the retracts. Our company (Hobbico) has a relationship with Robart. When we develop a new kit or ARF, we always provide the option of fixed gear (included in the kit) or retracts. During development Robart sends us a prototype of the retracts which we mount in the model and test while simultaneously testing the design of the plane. This was the case with the B-25. Early on Robart provided retracts and we used them during testing. Our local R/C club where we do our test flying has a paved runway, but it is also surrounded by rough, bumpy grass. So we fly the model both off pavement and the rough grass--landings and takeoffs to see how everything holds up. We also overload the model with additional lead ballast to simulate a "heavy" model, but we keep it within reason and don't expect the gear or the airframe to withstand unreasonable weight or crash landings--bad landings and rough landings okay, but not a crash landing.

If somebody is overloading the plane with many scale extras or many modifications that would make it come out heavier than the specified range noted on the front cover of the manual, just like it says in the manual it is up to the modeler to reinforce stress points. I guess this could include the landing gear.

Well, the formal test model and the retracts (as well as the show model flown in several events and a third prototype flown by Greg Hahn that weighed 21 - 22lbs) withstood all of our test flying with the specified Robart landing gear.

I hope this helps anybody who may have a question about the gear or may be planning on adding many scale details.

Tim

Jon Wise

Tim, Just some thoughts and observations as I assemble this ARF. I have the Robart retracts Topflite recommends for this ARF, but I don't like the way the air fittings are positioned on the front gear. When the gear retracts, the scissor hits the air fitting on the end of the cylinder. I'm afraid it is going to cut the air line over time. Too bad Robart couldn't put a 90 degree fitting on instead of a straight. The plane goes together well, although my wing tube has lots of slop in it. The steering servo is a pain to get to but I managed. I used the 157VRX large air tank kit Robart sells (that's what I had) It has to fit in the top of the fuse behind the cockpit using the mount templates that are included in the addendums. It won't slide in the mounts if you glue the mounts in. The tank is too long, it hits the windscreen as you try to slide it in the mounts. I had to glue the rear mount in and make a removable front mount that was glued to the air tank. It works very nice. Maybe on the next batches they could leave off the stripes on the fuse and just include them as a decal. That way you would have more options on schemes for the plane. I can't find very many schemes that use those stripes, and they are a pain in the butt to remove. I would like to build another with the Apache Princess scheme but don't want to take the stripes off. Thanks for your time and effort on this plane. Later Jon

Bosco2

My Feedback: (42)

Hi Tim,

Im considering to purchase the TF B 25 at the end of this month and Im looking forward to it,
However in your last thread you stated that the B 25 weight is around 21 to 22 LB which is common for a craft of this size and it makes me wonder if a set of OS 70 will be sufficient to power the plane and would it be able to do a loop and a slow roll, Don't get me wrong I do know that this is not a 3D type plane and one is to consider the plane should fly in a scale like maner.

Many Thanks
Butch