pmacpictures

You have to post final pictures. I am intrigued.

I would alos love it if you could post all the parts required for the conversion as well as dimensions of the motor mount!

alex_geforce

Yes, no problems for the pictures, but I'll post them, when the black matte paint is cured, now its drying behind me, over the wardrobe.
About the specs of the motormount... nothing special here, I've only used the original 4screw holes from the nitro engine on the chassiss, and the holes for the motor - 3 here. The other ones, are with no specialmeasure or something else, thats abosolutely up to you.
The material is duralumin, 4 mm, the strongest conssistension, 74 was, if I'm not wrong, and the only one, I've had around me. The vertical part is from 2 plates, just glued in between, for the 4 fitting screws, guess you can see them - 2 at the top, and 3 at the bottom, becouse of the 2 holding screws. And every one of them is locked with thread lock TL-242.

Also I'v made last night, front lights, mounted in the 4 holes in the bumper, and the final result is just great. Also will be rear lights, mouted in the lower susp. armholes, they will be 3 in paralel on every side., all 10 LED's will be switchable, by the 3rd channel, with servo, just for contact. Thiss system is tested on my 1:10 buggy, and works fust perfect.
Probably, tomorrow I'll finish this installation, so be prepaired

Well, ok, here ar some pics, I made few hours ago:
here, it's ready for paint:








now, the only difference is, that it's black matte, pictures tomorrow, that's for today </p>

alex_geforce

Hi, the motor mount is set and it looks great with the motor on it. Last night i made switchable from the third chanelfront and rear lights on the front bumper and on the rear lower arms wtih fewLED's, resistors, spare bateries - 2x1.2v recharable and a servo.
Also there is a li-pobatery holder, with 4mm duralumin again, and probably it will be replaced with 3mm, for lees weight. In total it will be ~5,7 kg, so few grams less will be good anywhere to save.
I'll upload pics later, so stay tuned

-Goat-

Hey Alex, how is your project comin? Just curious on how you mounted battery &amp; esc. Been lookin at my Nitrage for this conversion and just tryin not to reinvent the wheel. Any pointers and pics would be appreciated.</p>

</p>

-Goat-</p>

alex_geforce

Hi, Goat,
well, I've got some stuff to do, but the changes to the chassis may be finished, at this point. I've made also a wheelie bar at the back, again from dural. 3 and 4 mm, few screws and some thred lock and 2 super strong axles, from CD drive (the lens are moving on them). It's matt black, and for me, the back is already finished. (it's strange, that Tamiya didn't made wheelie, but anyone can try to make one)
Front lights aren't the brightest, but that can be changed (now using sony rechargeable 2x 1,2v 1050 mah), probably with other batteries - standart 2x 1.5V.
here are some pic's, where you can see the changes and the wheelie:
after few days, I'll have better camera, so the pictures also will be better.

-Goat-

Thanks Alex, those lights look sick. Actually, the entire project is comin along rather cool. I've already put lights in the nose of the body but I like how you placed yours on the chassis (might have to relocate mine). I have mine switched via my channel 3 button as I have a Flysky GT3C controller and powered via the onboard battery. Tks again. BTW, where did you get the boots for your axles?-Goat-

alex_geforce

Hi, I'm glad you like the project, soon I'llpost more updates
The boots arefrom onelocal hobby shop, they are for thunder tiger, but they fit on tamiya too.</p>

alex_geforce

So, it's time for the next update of my project "Nitrageelectro conversion"
Today I received my battery - TURNIGY 5.0A 20-30C Hardcase. After I got myself prepraired for the stuff I need to do, I got ouside, and began with cutting and drilling. There was little modification on the black plate for the battery - it's littleexpanded, and with another part, it's connected to the holding post near the diff, as you will see below. After that I try to make upper holder by trying few fittngs, but only one fit perfect. Again I've taken my imagenation to work, and that is what I made for a few hours work:



Here's how it everything mounted:


Also, I already have a servo XQ-Power 21.8 kg :


And becouse of not well fitted body, i found a way to stop the moving of the body, on the posts:
The front and the back:



Thats all for now, next week I'll have charger - I-max B6, and I guess in week or thwo after that, I'll have and the last part - the ESC, wich will be 150A, becouse 120A will be on the limit of the motors spec's. Also the overall weight of the model with battry onboard isonly 4.9 kg., that seems to be good news for now.</p>

-Goat-

Lookin great Alex, keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the finished product.</p>

</p>

-Goat-</p>

alex_geforce

Well, today was a BIG day, becouse, my Nitrage got it's first run ... aannddd it was the coolest thing ever !!!
The ESC is Hobbywing 150A, with stock settings, I'll buy program card, but when it's available at my lockal RC Shop.
I've removed the lights, from the rear, becouse there will be different positions for the different surface, so I'll reposition them soon.
Heres the video, it's still "hot" made before 1h 15 min.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXRcOqwOSE4

p.s. sorry for the hooked picture, but I was driving and recording at the same time, and it wasn't very easy to watch 2 things, butI guess you can see how the Electro Nitrage performs on it's first run. </p>

alex_geforce

Here are few actual photos of the truggy, where I installed light car system for 1:10 scale, made from hobbyking. The turn sighals, are not used, just there is no space for them and I dont nned them at least for now. I'm thinking for a proper place for the quick blinking leds, but for now they are not connected ot palced on the chasiss. Everything is placed in the box - receiver, led's contorler and the "BEC" made from 4 1.5V batteries, becouse esc's bec wasn't powerfull enough to power the servo and the light's.
The box isn.t opened, becouse the cover was forced to close and clamped and <span class="hps">It took</span> <span class="hps">me a few</span> <span class="hps">hours to</span> <span class="hps">find</span> <span class="hps">the optimal configuration</span> <span class="hps">of components inside.
Now everything works perfect if we doesnt count one little accident this morning, when I wasn't fully awake and somehow I've pushed the trigger and the truck almost ran over me and <span class="hps">chafed my <span class="hps">cheekbone. After this I was already awaken I was stupid event, but that proves, that this configuration have realy giant amount of power when it climb my leg, when it was almost vertical...
Few fresh pics of my monster truggy:






Now I'm thinking for changing the shock's and diff's oil, but dont know what number to use, any suggestions ? Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKVbz9ylvP8 here is how the lights work</span></span></span></p>

alex_geforce

Hello everybody, my nitrage has some major improvements these days (staying almost a week dissassembled on the floor of my room) but I've put new bearings on the wheel shafts, and in the gear box from AVID . Also the middle diff is filled with oil, becouse when i opened it there was none oil left, so now there is 5000 cps, may be I'll put thicker soon</p>

Also i decided to put an 1:10 onroad body, just to save the original for show-off's </p>

The body had some cuts, but nothing serious, to change it's regular form - little cut in the front wheel arches and a bit more at the back, and cut for the wing and for the body posts, but after all, it looks pretty good in this combination. Btw, the body is bit more soft, than needed, but its not that rare like the original.</p>

also I've added extra stickers, just for it's sporty vision.</p>

And new shock oil, i bought 650 cps shock oil and 5k for the diffs, but it was like the old one - too soft, so i decided to refill the shocks with diff oil. There is a BIG difference between before and now. The chassis cant touch the ground, when it falls, from 2-3 feet.</p>

there is one picture of the truggy:</p>

</p>

the last impovement is that last two days, I was working on a skid plates at the front and at the back, new a bit longer screws and it looks realy good now. pictures will be uploaded tomorrow</p>

</p>

</p>P.S. I'm sorry for the mess around the truck, but it was done at 3 a.m. and I was dying for some sleep...Here are the pictures: http://mishka1675.snimka.bg/hobby/ta...42798.30852648

alex_geforce

Hello, guys, last weekend, I've visit another track in the mountines near my city (about 135 km away), wich was new for me, and there was 1 realy high jump. It was awsome, to see an RC flying over 2,5 meters, over the ground, but it had its consequences over the front lower arms on my nitrage. They got a bit curvy, and one of them just broke around the 4mm pin. I couldn't find any spares left in ebay, so here is my last hope, before going to a spinner, to make them from alluminium, but this the last thing to do with this part. So, does anyone have 2 spare lower arms to sell me (contact me on PM) ??? ( if im not in violation if some rules here) please help me ...

coalminer

A long time since anyone posted on this Thread. Have you all gone ?? I still have my two Nitrages. I fired one up only last week. started after around 5 seconds, not bad to say shes been standing for quite a while, ran her and didnt even need a tune up. great run, so very pleased I hung onto them.

alex_geforce

Hello, well, I'm not gone. Still rolling the truck, also got some upgrades on it. in a few hrs I'll upload pics
Nice to see someone here

alex_geforce

here are the pics, with the upgrades I've installed recently - new Frankenstein-alike body - from Kyosho and HPI, wich happened to be like a wagon, and looks pretty cool, atleast for me. New position of the battery, for better weight distribution, new bumpers, from Thunder Tiger's MTA monster, with installed LED's, who soon will be lighted up, for a test-drive.
4 Kyosho 6mm offset hexes 17mm and 4 HPI Dirt Bonz wheels, with realy good traction on asphalt and dirt.
Here, you can take a look, also I had a chance to drive in snow, in the 2 days, we had snow around here, but it was unstoppable :

coalminer

Nice looking car there Alex. I am pleased I still have my two Nitrages. Although they are all original with the 5.2 nitro engines, they still run great and I have absolutely lots and lots of spares and two brand new Tamiya 5.2 engines for spares, so I will still be running these in many more years to come. However most of my time these days is spent with my 1/5 scale gas powered HPI Baja 5b....lots of noise and speed. The nitro smoke still smells damn good though !!

etopsflight

Guys

Like coalminer not been here in ages but pulled out my Nitrage and all my other cars out the past week. My Nitrage Air Filter requires replacement due to turned into mush. Can't find Tamiya Air Filters, P/N: 41064. Anyone suggest an alternative that will fit the filter housing? Pretty dirty from the last run and the carb slider still looks shiny so hope she starts and runs ok.

The beginning of this week have played with my Losi Ten-T, HPI Savage XL and this afternoon have got the Traxxas Revo 3.3 ready for a spin. Unfortunately the weekend is coming up which means quality time with the wife. Next week looks like rainy weather here so there won't be much chance to take the 5.2 out. That will give me time to do a little overhaul on first purchase in this line of nitro trucks. Tyres were bald but luckily I bought an extra set way back. Hope I can save the rims. Pulled most of the rubber off the grooves so will give it the hot water treatment.

Can't wait to hear that 5.2 engine and JP-4 tune sing again!

Marciatelli

Sup guys,

I will put some life into this thread by posting what I've been up to lately with my Nitrage.

About a month ago I was going through the loft and found my Nitrage there, I havent used it for about 3 years because I bought it off eBay used and the engine condition wasnt too good. Soon after running few litres of fuel it simply failed on me. I put it away for some later time and since its summer holiday (for me) and I had some motivation and cash, here what I went through.

The truggy itself was in a pretty good shape but the engine itself just was pretty much dead. The bearing was leaking, so was the carb. The cylinder head where the glow plug is usually, got blown off with its last run. There was pretty much no threading there.

My plan of action was to tear the truggy apart, and I mean every single part including the engine. Inspect, fix or replace the damaged parts as well as regrease and re-oil the mechanical parts.

So I got few pics of what I was doing here, not every step but few.

1. I tore down everything, and I mean everything. Here are the pics of it, its really easy to lose yourself without the diagrams in the manual!

Yes the engine was somewhat still intact there, but it was torn apart later. I couldnt get the mounts off the chassis, they possibly are welded there. I tried applying heat, freezing, WD-40 and other penetrative oils. As my last call of desperation I made a slot in the screws so I can get flathead screwdriver in there, after lots of sweat and torque the screws are going nowhere. At least they wont get loose when I bash, right?

2. Next step, purchase all the nessesary parts.
- Ofna Force 32 head button/cylinder head
- Outside bearing, the stock one was just absolutely demolished by dirt and rust. You could see the rubber seal being pushed away by rust... Just not a nice view

I purchased the bearing of my choice, of course rubber sealed metal bearing. Im childish and I found it slightly funny that the brand of the bearing was "FAG" but oh well. I also went for the Ofna Force 32 cylinder head rather than Tamiya FR-32 FX because the Tamiya engine is 1:1 rebranded clone of the Force 32 and the ofna parts are available at pretty low price.

Here is a pic of the new bearing in the case, I went for the the freeze/bake method. It didnt smell delicious, thats for sure.
Words cant explain how hot the part felt, but at least it was a nice fit.

I have inspected every part of the engine (I dont have pictures), and honestly it was in a good shape. The piston and sleeve were top notch but had a small scratched area (probably some garbage fell in), still some nice, tight and healthy compression. There was not much wear on the con-rod "bearing" where it connects to the crank. Overall really nice, just slight discolouration here and there (I guess from the oil?). The inside bearing was really nice and smooth so no need for replacement. I was pleased.

Here is the assembled engine and exhaust (nice and shiny).


I have also upgraded the receiver and transmitter from 27mHz to 2.4 gHz for the fact that it was time for an update and the 27mHz system was malfunctioning. I went budget wise so FlySky GT-2B was my choice. I bought it because it was powered by a single recharable 3.7 li-ion which you can plug in into the computer with cable and charge, that means goodbye AA batteries... I wont miss those for sure!
Its amazing how small the anthena of the tx (last picture) and the rx is + look how tiny the receiver is! I mounted it on the top of the electronics box.


I had a small crash back in the day which broke off one side of the servo arm, so here is a DIY temporary fix (im going to change the servo anyway). This is previous owners servo, it works well, altho its crappy (TowerPro MG995... Eugh...)


And here is the finished car itself, just waiting for diff and shock oil. I went for the 15 - 50 - 7 diff setup (all measurements are in x1000 cSt) just so I get a stiff centre and more power transfer to the back. The shocks are fitted with 500 cSt ~ 41 wt.
I am planning to bash this thing so any tips would be greatly appreciated.


I managed to run the engine, it runs really nice! Fixed all the problems with it, while assembling the engine I used silicone gasket where the seals are and gleen slime where the needles are. I have checked for leaks and none are present!
I havent run the chassis itself yet since I need to get the diff and shock oil. I will regrease all the gears inside with Moly grease. For dogbones outside I will not lube at all, the Anti-Wear grease or anything different will just create a grinding paste after few dusty runs.

Here is a list of parts I am going to replace (since its bashing, I went for the best/most reliable for price)
- Steering servo. TrackStar TS-900 (budget as well as metal hear, heavy duty aluminum case) - 15.8kg and 0.11s (im running hump pack - 6.0V)
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...g_0_09sec.html

- Throttle servo. TrackStar TS-400MG (budget, metal gear, pretty fast) 9.45kg and 0.11
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...g_0_11sec.html

- Alternative engine, I really like the FR-32 FX but its a real fuel consumer and its a shame to kill it by bashing. TrackStar SEG H-21 (cheap, .21, parts are cheap and easily accessable).
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...e_For_Car.html

- 3 shoe clutch for the engine, I have no idea which one yet, any ideas?

- Body shell. I can find a clear Nitrage body shell but no stickers/decals. Do you guys know what shells fit the nitrage?

- Rims. I am going to go with the Maximizer 14mm Zero offset beadlock and then dye them black. They are 3.2" so same as the original Nitrage dishes, but these are beadlock (no glue).
http://www.maximizerproducts.com/mod...air_P67060.cfm

- Tires. The original tires are getting old and really hard. I see cracking occuring and the tire dropping ash, has to be replaced soon. I will go with the truggy look where the tire won't go much wider than the rim. Panther Boa 3.2" it is!
http://www.panthertires.com/store/in...product_id=137

- Servo saver. The original savo server is garbage, way too soft. I tried rearranging the metal rings but its not doing it. Wheels wont turn when truggy is on the floor and at smaller bumps the wheels start to turn randomly. Do you know any 1/8 servo savers?

- Pipe. Not necessary but the composite original pipe just... well an upgrade would be nice.

So let me know what you think, if you got suggestions let me know!

Mark

+ I forgot to add that I want to change the shock springs too since they are too soft. I was hunting for TNX 5.2r springs but I cant find any! Do you guys know any alternative?

FDavee

Hy!
Sorry I dont speak english just little
I buy truggy and i don know battery..... 2 cel lipos usage first owner... My reciver is a http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2Ch_Tx_Rx.html
I use 2 cell lipo or not? Thank help
Davee

Marciatelli

Sup Dave,

I wouldnt use LiPo because a fully charged cell will have voltage of 4.20V, that would make it 8.4V for the battery.
The operating voltage of the receiver is "Power: 4.5~6V DC" which means from 4.5V to 6V direct current.

Giving the receiver 8.4V would make a firecracker out of it.
Get either 6V 4xAA or even better, a 6V hump pack.
Hump pack:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Hump_Pack.html
Battery tray:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Rx_Pack_.html

My last FS-GR3F (technically same receiver as yours) burned on a fully charged hump pack (1.45V x 5 = 7.25V) so they dont take higher voltages well.

Mark

FDavee

Hy!
Thanks quick replay! Lipo is dead last tank...... There was no radio signal and the model flew into the wall .... but the car did not have any problems fortunately . :S
I buy the battery thanks!
Davee

Marciatelli

Dont these receivers come with built-in fail safe? The singnal loss happens before the battery has enough juice to move the throttle servo.
Maybe something else failed, no idea.

Hump pack is pretty much the best solution when it comes to money, operational time and safety imo.
I crashed my car multiple times into hard objects and other cars and so far no damage or what so ever haha.

FDavee

It was not a set of fail safe , but the lipo battey after driving voltage of 0 volts dropped . So the power went out. And glow plug broken

Marciatelli

Yeah, so once you discharge LiPo below 3.0V per cell, you damage it. So I guess LiPo is now dead.
Now you dont have to worry about discharging, and set that damned failsafe :P