CARF Ultra Flash Evo build thread +
#76
My Feedback: (4)
Welcome back! How was the light install? I thought about doing something like that but was concerned about routing wires from the wingtip.
Also... 22 lbs? Holy smokes! I weighed mine and it came in a 25 on the nose. I didn't build mine, got it off a friend and maybe there is a difference in layups (though I'd be surprised) between first off the boat and now... but that's a big difference. Mine does have a K160 in it and it's just got stupid speed. Makes a howl when above a certain speed that makes even the "I only fly scale jets" crowd quiver.
Tom M
Also... 22 lbs? Holy smokes! I weighed mine and it came in a 25 on the nose. I didn't build mine, got it off a friend and maybe there is a difference in layups (though I'd be surprised) between first off the boat and now... but that's a big difference. Mine does have a K160 in it and it's just got stupid speed. Makes a howl when above a certain speed that makes even the "I only fly scale jets" crowd quiver.
Tom M
#77
Thanks! The light install was really simple. Routing is a direct shot from the wing tip to the access panel if you keep the wire bundle in front of the leading edge. There were only three ribs to pass through if memory serves.
I think the EVO is a bit lighter due to lack of bypass ducting (which might slow it down a little too). I also used the power bus system from my previous airplane, which added a bit of weight and complexity which wasn't really necessary... but I had it on hand and it worked well, so I threw it in. A friend of mine has the standard UF with full ducting, and his definitely has more of a howl than mine. I think the 160-200 is ideal :-D. Especially in the un-ducted version.
Colin
I think the EVO is a bit lighter due to lack of bypass ducting (which might slow it down a little too). I also used the power bus system from my previous airplane, which added a bit of weight and complexity which wasn't really necessary... but I had it on hand and it worked well, so I threw it in. A friend of mine has the standard UF with full ducting, and his definitely has more of a howl than mine. I think the 160-200 is ideal :-D. Especially in the un-ducted version.
Colin
#78
My Feedback: (4)
Mine is the EVO as well. It was brought over by the CARF team for the auction at Best in The West a couple years back, if it wasn't the first EVO in the states it was certainly one of the first as they had just announced it. Friend of mine got it in the auction, built it and flew it a bit. When I had a bit of bad luck in 2019 and was without a flyable airplane at that years BITW, he made me a killer deal. Great plane, even better friend.
Anyway, because of where I moved the batteries to get the balance right, I've often wondered if there was some rogue chunk of lead somewhere. But mine is pretty simple equipment wise, the 160 is the only thing remotely overkill, and like all EVOs, no ducting. With enough speed, the EVO howls like nothing else. At least mine does.
A light system would be cool though. Have to think on that.
Tom M
Anyway, because of where I moved the batteries to get the balance right, I've often wondered if there was some rogue chunk of lead somewhere. But mine is pretty simple equipment wise, the 160 is the only thing remotely overkill, and like all EVOs, no ducting. With enough speed, the EVO howls like nothing else. At least mine does.
A light system would be cool though. Have to think on that.
Tom M
#79
Interesting. I guess I just need to go faster for the howl lol. Eventually I'll put a bigger turbine in it, I like that the larger kingtechs share the same mounting footprint.
I'm using two 2500mah 2S lipos for the rx and one 2100 LIFE for the ECU. I weighed it with a bathroom scale, so it may not be super accurate. Now you have me wondering.. I'll weigh the wing and fuse separately on a more accurate scale and see where it comes in at with the lights.
Colin
I'm using two 2500mah 2S lipos for the rx and one 2100 LIFE for the ECU. I weighed it with a bathroom scale, so it may not be super accurate. Now you have me wondering.. I'll weigh the wing and fuse separately on a more accurate scale and see where it comes in at with the lights.
Colin
#80
Thread Starter
My std full duct Ultra Flash is under 23lb with an old style JetCat 160. The Evo i’m building I expect to be less! It has the JetCat 130Rx that saves 3/4 lb and is still 155N.
Bathroom scales are really inaccurate at low weights...
Bathroom scales are really inaccurate at low weights...
#82
Thread Starter
Sounds about right and still a good weight. The heaviest UF I flew was 32lb dry! Still flew OK. Next was 30lb with lights, smoke, gizmos etc and again, was OK. Most UF are in the 25-26lb range and they are nice aeroplanes. My UF with the 160 I can ‘walk past’ the pilots box apply full power and as it kicks in pull 90 degrees...you can watch it accelerate vertically for 300’ and it keeps going forever 🙂
The guys call it Saturn 5 😄
The guys call it Saturn 5 😄
#83
Sounds about right and still a good weight. The heaviest UF I flew was 32lb dry! Still flew OK. Next was 30lb with lights, smoke, gizmos etc and again, was OK. Most UF are in the 25-26lb range and they are nice aeroplanes. My UF with the 160 I can ‘walk past’ the pilots box apply full power and as it kicks in pull 90 degrees...you can watch it accelerate vertically for 300’ and it keeps going forever 🙂
The guys call it Saturn 5 😄
The guys call it Saturn 5 😄
#88
Thread Starter
Managed to get the gear in and servo plates fixed down. Used my usual method of tapping the ply mounts M4. I used CSK screws to ensure clearance on the rear screws. I use a wooden coffee stick to add pressure to the unit while the first hole is drilled and tapped. To ensure the holes are centred I use a drill the same dia as the lug mounting holes to slightly countersink the plywood. I then drill 3.2mm and tap with a sharp M4 tap I only use for wood.
Setting up the flaps I pre set the servo arm positions and movement with the radio while the two servo plates are away from the wing. Full flap has the arms pointing at the trailing edge. I install one plate, make sure I get the full flap I want by adjusting the pushrod length. Take off and fully up is adjusted on the Tx (easy when you use a PB Core). Once the first side is done i tape the other plate in position and check the full flap angle is matched and adjust the pushrod length to suit. Again matching the take off and clean position with radio adjustments.
Once everything is set i wick thin ca into the clevis thread rather than use a lock nut.
Setting up the flaps I pre set the servo arm positions and movement with the radio while the two servo plates are away from the wing. Full flap has the arms pointing at the trailing edge. I install one plate, make sure I get the full flap I want by adjusting the pushrod length. Take off and fully up is adjusted on the Tx (easy when you use a PB Core). Once the first side is done i tape the other plate in position and check the full flap angle is matched and adjust the pushrod length to suit. Again matching the take off and clean position with radio adjustments.
Once everything is set i wick thin ca into the clevis thread rather than use a lock nut.
#89
Thread Starter
Fuselage to finish. All the wood parts have been coated with 1-2 coats of PT-40 Finishing resin. Rather than paint all of the inside with my weight obsession I decided to paint the visible wood parts in the wing seat and light grey prime with texture paint straight over just the visible top part of the cockpit. Masking took a while!
Pics!
Pics!
Last edited by Dave Wilshere; 01-13-2021 at 09:59 AM.
#90
Senior Member
Nice finish the texture paint.
#94
The textured finish inside looks great! Is this your first UF with the JP gear? My wheels needed a bit of shimming for the magnets to grab at exactly the same time. Otherwise I'm very happy, they are beefy and have remained pretty slop-free.
#95
Thread Starter
First UF yes. I have tested my brakes and they are very even from the box. My Joker required the wheel spacing to be played with, but these see, good.
Dave
Dave
#96
Good to hear. Shimming was an easy 5 min job, I fly mostly off grass and it's not often I use the brakes other than during taxi anyway. Now that I've got my 10 posts in, here are a few pics of the light kit install, and a shot of it during it's maiden
#99
If you're using the gear doors definitely fix them with one or two small screws as Dave recommended. I lost one of mine a while ago, and am just getting around to making the new one now.