Aerofoam T-45
01-09-2022, 04:16 AM
#78
Member
Ok, I finally was able to connect to Gaspar and basically, that unit is not set up for JP retracts systems so I had to modify the servo cable connections supporting the gear outputs from the LG-15 unit to the gear by reversing the red and white cable connections. Now the unit works flawlessly!
Andrew
Andrew
01-10-2022, 05:34 AM
#80
Member
Thanks for your reply but isn't this a little risky? If the starting number is too low then the gear may not operate in flight. I was hoping to find someone who had already been down this trail and has the actual Xicoy settings.
01-10-2022, 07:31 PM
#82
Member
I have watched a couple of videos where the owner did set it on the ground and it worked fine. In the air it failed, possibly because of wind resistance? I'm sure trial and error would sort it out but I would like to avoid a failure in the air on the maiden if someone else has already figured this out.
01-13-2022, 02:59 AM
#83
Join Date: Mar 2007
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Edf version vs Turbine version
Can anybody articulate the differences between an EDF version and a Turbine version? In respect that I’ve purchased an EDF version, but now wish to upgrade it.
cheers
cheers
01-14-2022, 07:56 PM
#84
Member
Does anybody know who the manufacturer is for the retracts that come with the Aero Foam T45 and possibly what model number the retracts are? Or are they marked somehow so I can check them. I think they may be JP Hobby ER-120s but I am really not sure. Thanks for any info!!
01-15-2022, 09:36 AM
#86
Member
Thanks for the reply. Yes - I saw them under spare parts. What I am looking for is who actually makes these for Banana Hobby and what the OEMs part number is. Do you happen to know?
01-17-2022, 05:56 PM
#88
Member
Thanks for the reply. I am not familiar with a 150 controller? I am also confused how insignificant amps are the catalyst turn off a motor- normally excessive amps turn of a motor?
02-02-2022, 05:37 AM
#91
Member
I am trying to find a small, very simple blinking led module that you add between the existing lights control box and the LED to make it blink. I see the full control boxes and have tried the one from Pilot-RC but it does not work. Does anyone know of a source for an inline add in that changes a full on LED to a blinking LED?
02-02-2022, 05:43 AM
#92
Member
I have asked Banana Hobby what the max amp rating is for their retracts that come with the T-45 but have gotten no reply. Does anyone know what the amp rating is - I am trying to setup my Xicoy LG15 and I need to know for the setup?
02-02-2022, 06:11 AM
#93
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You might consider the DELight module from Dimension Engineering. It’s programmable and would replace the stock module that came in the plane.
https://www.gravesrc.com/dimensionen...ontroller.html
https://www.gravesrc.com/dimensionen...ontroller.html
02-02-2022, 06:34 AM
#94
Member
You might consider the DELight module from Dimension Engineering. It’s programmable and would replace the stock module that came in the plane.
https://www.gravesrc.com/dimensionen...ontroller.html
https://www.gravesrc.com/dimensionen...ontroller.html
02-02-2022, 07:41 AM
#95
I started with a low setting on the current cutoff and cycled the gear. With a low setting it will probably "hang" before it goes all the way up. I then increased it a little at a time until the gear cycled properly on the ground. I went up 0.1 Amps from that, and flew it. The gear cycled OK in the air, so I stayed at that setting. If it had hung in the air, I'd have increased it and tried again.
Also, be sure to set the "backoff" time correctly. You want the jack screw to loosen some to take the pressure off, but not so much that the gear unlocks.
Bob
02-02-2022, 07:47 AM
#96
Member
I set mine up on a Xicoy LGC-13. I think mine is set at 0.8 Amps for cutoff, but I'm not 100% sure.
I started with a low setting on the current cutoff and cycled the gear. With a low setting it will probably "hang" before it goes all the way up. I then increased it a little at a time until the gear cycled properly on the ground. I went up 0.1 Amps from that, and flew it. The gear cycled OK in the air, so I stayed at that setting. If it had hung in the air, I'd have increased it and tried again.
Also, be sure to set the "backoff" time correctly. You want the jack screw to loosen some to take the pressure off, but not so much that the gear unlocks.
Bob
I started with a low setting on the current cutoff and cycled the gear. With a low setting it will probably "hang" before it goes all the way up. I then increased it a little at a time until the gear cycled properly on the ground. I went up 0.1 Amps from that, and flew it. The gear cycled OK in the air, so I stayed at that setting. If it had hung in the air, I'd have increased it and tried again.
Also, be sure to set the "backoff" time correctly. You want the jack screw to loosen some to take the pressure off, but not so much that the gear unlocks.
Bob
02-02-2022, 08:06 AM
#97
Member
OK, so after some examination and thinking, here's what I don't like and the plans to fix it:
- the "bubble trap" is of unknown (to me anyway) effectiveness and is buried under the receiver plate so it can't be seen.
solution: use a real UAT mounted vertically at the back of the space next to the fuel tanks with a clearance opening in the receiver plate so that it can sit on the bottom of the fuselage.
- the gear and brake controllers are seperate and several users have reported problems with the gear not fully retracting during flight. This is caused not primarily because the actuation voltage is too low, but because the cutoff current is too low - and can't be adjusted with the current retract controller. Also, there are 11 total gear doors, but it turns out that there are really only 3 servos for the gear doors - one each for the mains and nose gear.
solution: replace the supplied gear controller with a Xicoy LCG13 gear controller. This gear controller allows the cutoff current for each gear to be adjusted seperately as well as the position and timing for the gear doors for the "gear down," "gear moving," and "gear up" positions. In addition to fixing the gear not retracted problem, it will allow the nose and main landing gear doors to be set to close with the gear down - as is the operation on the full-scale T-45.
- the light controller simply powers all of the lights all of the time - the red beacons don't pulse and the white lights don't strobe. Also, the landing light on the gear stays on even when the gear is retracts - which at a minimum, drains the light battery more quickly.
solution: I'll use one of my own light controllers to blink the beacons, strobe the strobes, and turn off the landing light when the gear is retracted...
Parts are on order...
Bob
- the "bubble trap" is of unknown (to me anyway) effectiveness and is buried under the receiver plate so it can't be seen.
solution: use a real UAT mounted vertically at the back of the space next to the fuel tanks with a clearance opening in the receiver plate so that it can sit on the bottom of the fuselage.
- the gear and brake controllers are seperate and several users have reported problems with the gear not fully retracting during flight. This is caused not primarily because the actuation voltage is too low, but because the cutoff current is too low - and can't be adjusted with the current retract controller. Also, there are 11 total gear doors, but it turns out that there are really only 3 servos for the gear doors - one each for the mains and nose gear.
solution: replace the supplied gear controller with a Xicoy LCG13 gear controller. This gear controller allows the cutoff current for each gear to be adjusted seperately as well as the position and timing for the gear doors for the "gear down," "gear moving," and "gear up" positions. In addition to fixing the gear not retracted problem, it will allow the nose and main landing gear doors to be set to close with the gear down - as is the operation on the full-scale T-45.
- the light controller simply powers all of the lights all of the time - the red beacons don't pulse and the white lights don't strobe. Also, the landing light on the gear stays on even when the gear is retracts - which at a minimum, drains the light battery more quickly.
solution: I'll use one of my own light controllers to blink the beacons, strobe the strobes, and turn off the landing light when the gear is retracted...
Parts are on order...
Bob
02-02-2022, 08:31 AM
#98
Member
Has anyone had any issues with the wing slats servo arms? On mine the right outboard is a three hole arm and the right inboard is a two hole arm. The left outboard is a two hole arm and the left inboard is a three hole arm. In both locations the three hole arms hit the servo cover. Also, since the arms are different lengths, the slats do not deploy evenly but deploy further out where the three hole arms are used. Give the locations of the longer arms, the slats deploy more at the right wing tip and more at the left wing root. I know on a full scale plane this would induce a roll to the left. Is this the same setup everyone has or are the servo arms all supposed to be two hole in length?
02-02-2022, 06:57 PM
#99
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I bought a kit that didn’t have electronics but bought some used electronics from a decommissioned Hawk. I think you should have the same servo horns and hole placement for each servo. I ended up going with a Z-bend on the servo horn and ball link on the slat. Seems to work fine.
02-08-2022, 08:08 AM
#100
Member
I finally got around to completing and flying mine which I have put about 9 flights on her. My nose gear door struggles to open up all the way so and takes several cycles in the air to get it to retract so I had no choice but to take off the nose gear doors today while looking her over. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the nose gear door servo with the dual-arm I noticed that one part of the arm where the push rod goes through finally split and I'm sure this happened due to the jet builder made the servo arm hole slightly bigger than what was needed so the arm split down the middle.
