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When the trailer pin connects with the coupler, the coupler switch is depressed. The coupling sound is heard and the ESC is switched to towing mode. This mode increases the 1st and 2nd gear speeds, 3rd gears stays the same.

Lunchboxer

Definitely a cool project when there's time... that's way cool.. in a different kind of way.. (I am usually more into the mechanical modification, but this one will require more attention to details on the paint, etc. as well!)

Lunchboxer

So it is actually faster when towing?!?

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The CH3 servo controls latching/unlatching/raising legs/lowering legs. I will get into depth about this process later, but before we mount the coupler here is what the latching process looks like.

This is a view from the underside.

A connecting rod is attached to the brass ball connector. When the right stick is moved in the full forward position in the "coupling mode" the latch is opened allowing the trailer to be hitched. Once the coupling sound is heard, releasing the right stick to neutral locks the trailer pin.

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Well, yes. Only in 1st and 2nd gear. The ESC regulates the speed when not towing so the speed is about half of the towing speed.

When we meet up again, we'll have more time and I can show you more of the details.

Lunchboxer

That's pretty strange.. I'd have guessed that when towing, it is supposed to be slower! (more realistic, no?!)

Yeah, hopefully before the next meet, I will have my TLT extended... hee hee.. !!

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The coupler is mounted to the coupling plate and then mounted to the chassis. The coupler switch wire should be ran along the other wires already in place. you can easily open the tamiya clamps to add the wire or you can zip tie it in. I used the tamiya clamps.

Once this has been completed we can mount the servo. We are going to use the servo as a secondary point to secure the braid of wires inside the frame rail.

Here is the servo mounted on the suplied steel plate with supplied horn.

Note the placement of the servo cable, this is how it will be positioned while installing servo. Again, this keeps all the wires together.

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Don't forget to label the servo cable...

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The full set up with connecting rod...

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OK, NOW it's time to mount the speaker box. I used two layers of velcro to secure the MFU instead of the supplied dbl stick tape. It is a weak think antivibration tape. Plus, the speakerbox must be removed to access the transmission and other parts so the velcro makes for easy removal.

The box on the upper left is the vibration unit. Much like on a cell phone, just much larger scale[8D].

The Rx has velcro too.

There are three through way holes in the base plate. The main set of wires, as you can see, have been run through the center. I also ran the antenna wire underneath.

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Another view of what may be intimidating to some. Relax, they are all labeled.

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MFU in place with a bit of added foam for support...

Lunchboxer

That's a lot of wires going on there........

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Ok, first step is to attach the servo leads to the MFU.

*NOTE DIRECTION OF TAB!! DIRECTION OF TAB IS NOT STATED IN MANUAL*

If they are reversed, none of the servos will work.

In the manual for the MFU there is a main diagram to show where all the connections go including the servo leads.

The multi colored harness to the right is from the control panel.

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It gets worse....

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OK, so now we need to connect all the chassis wires.

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Next to be connected is the body lights and harness. At this point there is no room for fingers so I used a small flat tipped screwdriver.

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Pheeew! Ok, we got all the wires connected. Now we need to set up the MFU. Connect the battery, turn on the Tx and then switch on the control panel. The truck will come to life with the start up sounds.

At this point the manual describes what to do next.

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With that complete we can mount the body!! This is where it gets tricky when you do it for the first time. THis is when you'll be glad you tucked away as many wires as you could.

Here you can see the spare tire I mounted using one of the supplied front wheels. The screw does not protrude past the nut on the back so it does not interfere with any wiring. I saw this mod on a website and thought it added to the scale look.

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Carefully tuck in all the wires and secure the body with mounting screws. There are six total, two on each side and two in the back.

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I spray painted the body and trailer panels with auto paint from the local autoparts store. I painted about 6 coats of base coat and 3 coats of clear coat. The clear coats wasn't so great and probably could've gotten a better shine from a model paint clear coat.

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Here are some shots of the finished body.

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Scale details on the chassis.

Bizket

WOW, I personally am not really into R/C's like that(Im more into bashing and speed[>:]), but that thing is awsome! Looks like it is a very tedious process, which I dont think I have enough patience for. Lots, and lots of wires, but looks like its gonna be pretty cool whens its all said, and done. How big is it by the way?

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The tractor is 25" and with box trailer it stretches to 52"

It's alot of fun and I have the patience for it. It definitely keeps your interests!