MLDELARUELLE

Tim,
Thanks for theses explanations. [8D]
I will order the retracts when TH will have them in stock !
Best regards
ML

camdyson

& thanks on the response re the fuelproofing. Needless to say, I couldn't possibly leave them wood-coloured now anyway....

I'm having the same dilemma as others finding schemes with the white fuz stripes other than Executive Sweet. Be pleased to hear from anyone who had success in this.

Cam

Jon Wise

The only other one I've seen is Barbie III, but it's an H model. I'm sure there is others just haven't found them yet. I've got a dozen books on B-25's and none have a pic or info of one with the stripes. later Jon

iflyf4u1a

My Feedback: (1)

See krproton - a couple of more reasons to make an ARC version of this plane [sm=wink_smile.gif]

krproton

Hi Butch.

I need to be more descriptive. I never said the B-25 weighs 21 to 22 lbs. I was providing the weight of a leftover prototype that was given to Greg Hahn. I was illustrating that the Robart retracts have been performing fine in a B-25 that came out even heavier than the gear was intended for. Greg modified his B-25, finished it in glass cloth and resin, then painted it and converted it to electric. Hence, the increased weight. The Top Flite B-25 ARF, as supplied to customers, built according to the instructions, will weigh between 17 to 19 lbs. It was never intended to loop and roll. It's a scale model of a WWII bomber. However, when Greg took our show model to a few events last summer and handed the sticks over to other modelers, they did roll it, but I don't know about loops. I understand you want your model to have "extra" power which it does with the O.S. .70 Surpasses. Just go to the beginning of this thread where I describe how the model files with those engines. Also, I commented how the model flies in another thread on the B-25 started by someone else a long time ago. You'll have to search for that one though.

On second though, there's a link to that first thread [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6401521[/link]

I hope this answers your questions and please let me know if you need more clarification or have another question.


Tim

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Just to answer all the questions that have been asked, "YES, it will loop and roll".

The roll was a military style and the loop was pretty large with a dive beforehand.

I only did one of each during the testing, just to be able to answer that question truthfully.

The full product review will be in the February Issue of R/C REPORT Magazine with me and the plane on the cover.

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Finally into the build fullbore and have come across a few things that may be of interest to those in the build cycle as well. I opted for the Robart treaded tires and noted that small spacers are required for the tire to clear the Torque links mounted to the strut assembly. If you don't want your tires to bind upon landing you should check this. Secondly, when assembling the gear doors I found that the Ball links were binding just a touch. Turns out that when you trim the Ball links as instructed the screw holding the Ball link to the Door hinges are a little long. The screw can rub on the ball causing it to bind. I first thought the plastic ball link was tight on the metal ball but found otherwise. Just clip the tip of the screw and that will free up the action. Just thought I'd pass this along..

Bosco2

My Feedback: (42)

Many Thanks Tim and Dick,

In the last two weeks I have been looking into a nice twin engine war bird above and be on the B 25 and other model company's as well,
I have found after reading this forum and others of deferent models there is no question in my mind that TF B 25 is the best twin engine war bird made today.

I will be looking forward to the review of this magnificent model in your magazine.

Many Thanks for your help.

norm

Hello Dick,

We are all looking forward to your review. I personally am looking forward to read your review, "judging" on your interest and the pride you take to announce the cover apperance, this review will certainly be impressive. BTW nothing stops you to give us somre insights.

I still say now this is the best ARF I've put together.

thank you Normand

krproton

Hi Jon.

I was just doing a little research on my own B-25 I have upstairs in my "shop" (which is really a small, spare bedroom!) so I could answer your questions:

1. Air fitting on back of front air cylinder - I wonder if your air cylinder was mounted in your nose gear retract upside-down. On mine, the air fitting comes out the back of the air cylinder, but it's not in the center, it's nearest the top of the cylinder--toward the top of the model. If your air cylinder is upside-down, that would position the fitting closer to the oleo or scissors. I disconnected the nose gear door pushrod from mine and cycled the gear by had a few times to see where the scissors contacts the air line. It just barely touches the line about 1/2" from the end of the cylinder--it's hardly rubbing the line. There are no wear marks on the line what-so-ever. On my model, I drilled a hole in the radio tray for the air line coming off the rear air fitting. The hole is immediately to the side of the fitting about 1" away. This way, the line bends away from the scissors. Maybe this will help your situation. In any regard, I can't see how the scissors would cut the air line.

2. Wing slop - can you be more specific? If there is free play from side-to-side, you could rotate the small aluminum tubes that the 4-40 bolts go through and re drill your holes. Only this time, when drilling the second set of holes on one side (in either the right or left wing), have an assistant squeeze the wings together so they are pressing tightly against the fuselage. That should remove your free play.

3. Yes, I know. The nose steering servo is a little "buried" down there in the fuselage. If you mounted it before mounting the air cylinder it should be no problem. If you mounted your air cylinder first, then the servo is REALLY a pain to get to. But unless your nose steering servo ever fails, you shouldn't have to get down there ever again.

4. I don't know why your large air cylinder wouldn't fit. I'll have to look into that one from work because I don't have a large air cylinder here at home.

5. White fuselage stripes - I understand your suggestion. I'm a little surprised the stripes were difficult to remove. Usually, if you carefully peel them off they come off okay. If any white pigment was left behind you can clean it off with CA debonder. As for the painted stripes on the waist gun windows, well I guess you'll just have to paint over those. I would sand them first.

On the other hand, if we would have left the stripes as decals, I think we would have MANY MORE complaints from modelers having to add them. And I can't imagine any stripes that would adhere to the windows. I think paint is the only way to go for the windows.


Well, I hope this helps you a little.

Tim

krproton

Hi europatc74.

That's a strange one about the screws for the ball links being too long. I understand what you are saying. Is it possible you forgot the #2 flat washers and lock washers that go under each screw?

Tim

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Krproton.
The lock washer and flat washer were utilized. I had to trim the plastic Ball links a little more than in the instructions in order to get the assembly to sit flat for glueing. Not all were binding. Just those that needed a little more cutting...

diverdon

Tim,
(Krproton)

Did you get my E-Mail concerning the decals(Graphics)?

Don

krproton

Hi Don.

I accidentally deleted your message, but I retrieved it from my trash and just sent you a reply.

Thanks.

Tim

diverdon

Tim,

I received your E-Mail. Many thanks and good luck back at work.

Don

Jon Wise

Tim, thanks for the reply.
The wing tube has about 1/32 slop up and down and front to back. Doesn't sound like much , but by the time it gets out to the end of the tube it looks like a lot. The rotation pins are ok, although I do have movement at the trailing edge of the wing back and forth, away from the fuse about 3/32 inch. I'll take it apart and fix it before I'm done.
I looked at my front gear, the fitting is positioned in the correct manner as you describe. Looks close to me and does hit at times. I'll have to watch it and see if it becomes a problem.
Thanks Jon

danrc2

did anyone else get the bomb system from wingspanmodels.com? i got the six bomb release system and so far it seems pretty good. i didnt do the bomb bay doors yet. hopefully that will be this weekend.

dan

diverdon

Dan,
I'm looking at it real hard.

What are the actual dimensions of the bombs?

Thanks,

Don

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

i ran out of riveting material so more is on the way. I drilled holes for the dudz fasteners in the cowl and nacelle being careful not to drill into any wire. i plan on testing this bird with the outer panels off that way i cant fly if something is the least but off. I also want to put pigtails on my batts to charge them in the plane. Ive never had a fire issue and taking them out every time is a pain

danrc2

diverdon,
right now im at work. so i dont remember the size of each bomb. if i had to guess i would say about 6" or so. i will measure them when i get home tonight. very scale!! im out of channels so i am gonna use the servo delay on the system to open the doors then drop them in sequential order. should look great watching each bomb come out one at a time. its a little pricey but for a plane like this its nothing. even more so if you put bomb bay doors on it. why wouldnt you want something like this!!!
you do need another 6V battery to run the system. i missed that when i first read it. they call for at least a 2400mah 6V battery just for that.
i am running the plane on a 2400mah lithium ion regulated down to 6V, i also have the twin on-board glow driver by sullivan which i have a 1400mah 6V battery for. im gonna make them all ion in the future. cash getting low. i had those NiCads already. so that saved me for now.

dan

diverdon

Dan,
Many thanks. That would be appreciated.

Mine is electric but I have a seperate Rx battery( DeWalt 2 cell A-123 2300)
There is no reason you can't use a "Y" and run both items off the same battery.
Give that a thought.

Don

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Here's another FYI for those about to get into the build. Page 16 Bellcrank lever. There has been some talk about the bellcrank binding after installation. Some say to eliminate the plastic washer. The real problem is that the bushing is too short and does not extend out past the lever. If you want the Bellcrank to float as it should you will need to reduce the width of the Bellcrank since you'll not be able to increase the depth of the bushing. Also, I would start with a slightly smaller size drill bit than the 3/32" as you can easily strip the wood even if you CA the hole. Just another FYI as I go along.

diverdon

I just reversed the bushing so the spacer portion was against the wood and it clears just fine.

I do agree with starting with a smaller drill.

I also used the metal replacement cams that Mike sells.
They are great.

Don

krproton

Hi again Jon.

I was doing a little more research on your air tank problem. I tested a large tank in a fuselage with the plywood mounts. I did find that the tabs of the mounts (the parts that key into the top, middle stringer) may not be long enough if you push the mounts all the way up to the sheeting over the top of the fuselage. The top, inner edge of the formers encroach slightly into the hole in each tab for the air tank. All one would have to do is use a Dremel or a hobby knife to shave about 1/16" from the former to open up the holes the rest of the way--or, if you notice this problem before gluing in the tabs, just don't push them all the way down (up) to the sheeting.

The tabs should be glued to the second and third formers behind the former at the back of the cockpit (as shown in the Tech Notice on the B-25 page on the Top Flite web site).

Otherwise, I can't see where you would run into a problem. I was able to fit the large air tank into the tabs nicely--just exactly as depicted in the Tech Notice.

Well, it sounds like you have it solved anyway, but I just wanted to check.

I attached a photo of the air tank in the fuselage I tested just now.

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Diverdon,
It's not a clearance issue but one of binding. Reversing the bushing would not eliminate the problem unless the bushing were extended out past the lever. What were trying to achieve is to fix the bushing so that the lever spins on the bushing and not the bushing on the screw. Difficult to see if the bushing is actually fixed or spinning unless one marks the bushing. If the bushing Is spinning then in time the screw will come loose. I too have the metal levers from mike and would highly recommend them. Nice Job Mike. Thanks.