Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
01-03-2008, 03:31 PM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Thanks guys, I'm glad you like the aluminum levers.
If anyone else wants to get them just send $10.00 to my paypal address ([email protected]) and I will mail them to you.
Mike
If anyone else wants to get them just send $10.00 to my paypal address ([email protected]) and I will mail them to you.
Mike
01-03-2008, 03:53 PM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
If you are having clearance issues with the levers check pg 12 post 279. Using a ball on a standoff instead of the clevis solved the problem for me.
Mike
Mike
01-03-2008, 04:26 PM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
About the Aluminium Levers from Mike,
I second that Diverdon, they are a definite improvedment to this ARF.. and should be standard stock. Kudos to Mike.
Service advise:
COWLING TABS
Make certain every one that you use threadlock on those tabs, the cowling loosen up around the ring and on the nacelle attachement (A+B), it is a headache to tighten after because you need to remove the cowling.
SERVO HATCH
Check your servo hatch and add thin ca to all blocks because they break off, mostly the aileron ones (more stress). For added security place a 2 sided foam tape between the servo and the hatch in case the blocks break off, this will retain the servo in place. (both sides blocks broke on my ailerons servo hatch) Do not trust the blocks alone...time will tell (removing them will leave you with one or more loose blocks! that will convince you
Normand.
I second that Diverdon, they are a definite improvedment to this ARF.. and should be standard stock. Kudos to Mike.
Service advise:
COWLING TABS
Make certain every one that you use threadlock on those tabs, the cowling loosen up around the ring and on the nacelle attachement (A+B), it is a headache to tighten after because you need to remove the cowling.
SERVO HATCH
Check your servo hatch and add thin ca to all blocks because they break off, mostly the aileron ones (more stress). For added security place a 2 sided foam tape between the servo and the hatch in case the blocks break off, this will retain the servo in place. (both sides blocks broke on my ailerons servo hatch) Do not trust the blocks alone...time will tell (removing them will leave you with one or more loose blocks! that will convince you
Normand.
01-03-2008, 07:19 PM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
here is my wiring diagram any comments would be appreciated. it is a 6s 10,000mah parallel setup. any ideas as to pigtailing for charging the batts. these are all in the fuse and i would like to keep them there while charging. I know some may say its not safe but ive done this many times just not wiith all the batts in the fuse. if I put a seperate deans on each pos and neg lead on each of the 4 batts and charge them with my electrifly 4 batt charger it looks like ill be running extra current all over the place any ideas. pulling each batt out would be a pain as they are hidden in a compartment in the bomb bay
01-04-2008, 05:03 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
ORIGINAL: krproton
Hi again Jon.
I was doing a little more research on your air tank problem. I tested a large tank in a fuselage with the plywood mounts. I did find that the tabs of the mounts (the parts that key into the top, middle stringer) may not be long enough if you push the mounts all the way up to the sheeting over the top of the fuselage. The top, inner edge of the formers encroach slightly into the hole in each tab for the air tank. All one would have to do is use a Dremel or a hobby knife to shave about 1/16" from the former to open up the holes the rest of the way--or, if you notice this problem before gluing in the tabs, just don't push them all the way down (up) to the sheeting.
The tabs should be glued to the second and third formers behind the former at the back of the cockpit (as shown in the Tech Notice on the B-25 page on the Top Flite web site).
Otherwise, I can't see where you would run into a problem. I was able to fit the large air tank into the tabs nicely--just exactly as depicted in the Tech Notice.
Well, it sounds like you have it solved anyway, but I just wanted to check.
I attached a photo of the air tank in the fuselage I tested just now.
ORIGINAL: Jon Wise
Tim, Just some thoughts and observations as I assemble this ARF...I used the 157VRX large air tank kit Robart sells (that's what I had) It has to fit in the top of the fuse behind the cockpit using the mount templates that are included in the addendums. It won't slide in the mounts if you glue the mounts in. The tank is too long, it hits the windscreen as you try to slide it in the mounts. I had to glue the rear mount in and make a removable front mount that was glued to the air tank. It works very nice...
...Thanks for your time and effort on this plane. Later Jon
Tim, Just some thoughts and observations as I assemble this ARF...I used the 157VRX large air tank kit Robart sells (that's what I had) It has to fit in the top of the fuse behind the cockpit using the mount templates that are included in the addendums. It won't slide in the mounts if you glue the mounts in. The tank is too long, it hits the windscreen as you try to slide it in the mounts. I had to glue the rear mount in and make a removable front mount that was glued to the air tank. It works very nice...
...Thanks for your time and effort on this plane. Later Jon
I was doing a little more research on your air tank problem. I tested a large tank in a fuselage with the plywood mounts. I did find that the tabs of the mounts (the parts that key into the top, middle stringer) may not be long enough if you push the mounts all the way up to the sheeting over the top of the fuselage. The top, inner edge of the formers encroach slightly into the hole in each tab for the air tank. All one would have to do is use a Dremel or a hobby knife to shave about 1/16" from the former to open up the holes the rest of the way--or, if you notice this problem before gluing in the tabs, just don't push them all the way down (up) to the sheeting.
The tabs should be glued to the second and third formers behind the former at the back of the cockpit (as shown in the Tech Notice on the B-25 page on the Top Flite web site).
Otherwise, I can't see where you would run into a problem. I was able to fit the large air tank into the tabs nicely--just exactly as depicted in the Tech Notice.
Well, it sounds like you have it solved anyway, but I just wanted to check.
I attached a photo of the air tank in the fuselage I tested just now.
01-04-2008, 07:52 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Tim,
How are you going to balance the cells during charging? Most battery ignition problems are caused by uneven cell voltages.
Mike
How are you going to balance the cells during charging? Most battery ignition problems are caused by uneven cell voltages.
Mike
01-04-2008, 06:19 PM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
krproton, I want to order another set of cowlings, but I can't find a part number for the cowl rings that glue inside? Are they available seperately or do they come with the cowls? Can you find me a part number? Thanks Jon Wise
01-05-2008, 12:40 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
. Im not charging them on that circuit. i tested the entire system with only 4s2p and blew lots of pics off my wall. wife is really pissed. That was not at the rates 6s2p i will be running. the circuit works nothing is warm.
I thought of a way to charge them with the batts in the plane by making extensions from each pack that i can unplug to charge. they would be hidden under a false fuel tank. every 25s bay was different. i have so many wires there that everytime I would remove the packs i would possibly break a connection. i ordered the 2s 5000mah packs and when they get here ill do a final install.
Tommorow ill install the air valve and shove all the air tubes out of the way that will help. I could fly on what i have now, they are brand new batts and they get stronger as you run them but my flight time would be low 6s 2p gives me 22volts 10,000mah. ill have 10 minutes easy. I only have a 4s charger so too bad if i had a 6s my life would be easy. my balancing leads are accessable thru the bomb bay doors so they will get balanced
I thought of a way to charge them with the batts in the plane by making extensions from each pack that i can unplug to charge. they would be hidden under a false fuel tank. every 25s bay was different. i have so many wires there that everytime I would remove the packs i would possibly break a connection. i ordered the 2s 5000mah packs and when they get here ill do a final install.
Tommorow ill install the air valve and shove all the air tubes out of the way that will help. I could fly on what i have now, they are brand new batts and they get stronger as you run them but my flight time would be low 6s 2p gives me 22volts 10,000mah. ill have 10 minutes easy. I only have a 4s charger so too bad if i had a 6s my life would be easy. my balancing leads are accessable thru the bomb bay doors so they will get balanced
01-05-2008, 01:57 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Tim,
Thunder Power is just coming out with a new 6 cell charger.
LiPo, A-123 + all the other chemistries.
It also says it has a built in balancer but I haven't looked into that.
$129.00 and I may be abel to get a little off of that.
Don
Looked into the TP charger a little more and it's only 80 W so forget that.
Cell Pro is coming out with a 300W 10 cell charger for $189 that looks real good.
Thunder Power is just coming out with a new 6 cell charger.
LiPo, A-123 + all the other chemistries.
It also says it has a built in balancer but I haven't looked into that.
$129.00 and I may be abel to get a little off of that.
Don
Looked into the TP charger a little more and it's only 80 W so forget that.
Cell Pro is coming out with a 300W 10 cell charger for $189 that looks real good.
01-05-2008, 07:41 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
ORIGINAL: timothy thompson
who makes a 6 cell charger close to 5000ma triton?
who makes a 6 cell charger close to 5000ma triton?
Tim are you using a retract servo on your bomb bay doors? I can't get enough travel to close the doors. Later Jon
01-05-2008, 09:21 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
I am haveing a problem with the cables on the nose gear. The cables are tight when the gear is out, but when I retract the gear one of the cables comes of the nose gear. ny ideas on what I can do to stop this?
01-05-2008, 09:51 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
Try this.
Take the cable off and slide a tight piece of shrink tubing over it.
Re-attach and slide the wrap forward and then shrink it.
If you don't have that try fuel tubing.
Of course the real solution is to make the loop a little smaller.
Don
Take the cable off and slide a tight piece of shrink tubing over it.
Re-attach and slide the wrap forward and then shrink it.
If you don't have that try fuel tubing.
Of course the real solution is to make the loop a little smaller.
Don
01-05-2008, 11:40 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
John,
The Multiplex only does up to 5 cells and that's at 5A max.
I think Tim's looking for a 6 cell charger.
Don
The Multiplex only does up to 5 cells and that's at 5A max.
I think Tim's looking for a 6 cell charger.
Don
01-05-2008, 12:34 PM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
ORIGINAL: Jon Wise
krproton, I want to order another set of cowlings, but I can't find a part number for the cowl rings that glue inside? Are they available seperately or do they come with the cowls? Can you find me a part number? Thanks Jon Wise
krproton, I want to order another set of cowlings, but I can't find a part number for the cowl rings that glue inside? Are they available seperately or do they come with the cowls? Can you find me a part number? Thanks Jon Wise
The plywood cowl rings will come with the cowls. I'm at home so I don't have access to our computer that will tell me if the cowls are in stock yet. My guess is that they are not, but I think the spare pars are coming in at the end of this month.
Let me know if you need anything else.
Tim
01-05-2008, 12:38 PM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
ORIGINAL: sgoen
I am haveing a problem with the cables on the nose gear. The cables are tight when the gear is out, but when I retract the gear one of the cables comes of the nose gear. ny ideas on what I can do to stop this?
I am haveing a problem with the cables on the nose gear. The cables are tight when the gear is out, but when I retract the gear one of the cables comes of the nose gear. ny ideas on what I can do to stop this?
Don had it right when he suggested making the loops over the ball links smaller. They should be large enough so you could force them off the ball links if ever necessary, but tight enough so they won't come off by them selves.
Of course, if you've already crimped the swages and cut the wire you can't go back and re do it.
If you need to start over again DuBro makes a really nice set of steel lines and cable swages. I think they have two sizes--one for 4-40 and another for 2-56. Use the smaller ones (2-56).
Tim
01-05-2008, 12:39 PM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
i use a seperate channel for the doors. are you decreasing throw on the spool valve servo , that could be your problem but if you are running a 7 channel set you shuld have a switch just for the bay, now today is gopnna be clean up wire paths and air lines OH BOY!
01-06-2008, 12:23 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
ok electronics all done and tested. This sob pulls 28lbs on 4s! i have 2 2s packs coming. ill describe what you see in order of the pics.
each batt has a 4 inch extension added and they run up through my batt compartment. The wood strip with the 4 deans are my y connectors that make a 4s and 2s a 6s 5000mah. I only have the big 4s packs in as the others are on order.. The center wiring is all over the place and thank god for spektrum. with the hatch on you dont see anything. There is a cover over the 4 deans that will simulate a spare fuel tank. No 2 b-25s were exact and I can get a way with that. I can charge the packs in the plane and balance also as the balance tabs are right at the hatch. the 2s batts are 1/2 inch wide so i shouldnt have trouble getting them in (Ya right it will take a week)
the girl is my daughter after she just got up she and her hubby live at ft polk La and went home yesterday [
][] thtas her dog not hubby!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
each batt has a 4 inch extension added and they run up through my batt compartment. The wood strip with the 4 deans are my y connectors that make a 4s and 2s a 6s 5000mah. I only have the big 4s packs in as the others are on order.. The center wiring is all over the place and thank god for spektrum. with the hatch on you dont see anything. There is a cover over the 4 deans that will simulate a spare fuel tank. No 2 b-25s were exact and I can get a way with that. I can charge the packs in the plane and balance also as the balance tabs are right at the hatch. the 2s batts are 1/2 inch wide so i shouldnt have trouble getting them in (Ya right it will take a week)
the girl is my daughter after she just got up she and her hubby live at ft polk La and went home yesterday [
][] thtas her dog not hubby!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
01-06-2008, 01:32 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
well don it all works! and the fuel tank hatch will be done tomorrow. ill post more pics. thi plane will go like a rocket and who say e power is for parkflyers! nothing got warm in my test. the props were bolted on and the wife held the fish scale and 28 lbs. thats max pull on my 310. im convinced it will fly like this but hell more power never hurts.
do you know they sell presoldered parallel and series harnesses, are people that lazy? if you cant solder you should not be flying (unless you have a disability)
do you know they sell presoldered parallel and series harnesses, are people that lazy? if you cant solder you should not be flying (unless you have a disability)
01-06-2008, 01:35 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
finish well ive got the rivets and screws to install. im out of rivet resin so more is coming ive ordered tru turn hubs and the bats so well see when it gets here.
01-06-2008, 11:37 AM
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RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
let me weigh the beast oh oh 52 lbs (kidding) everything on except the outer wing panels and the 2 small batts im at 18lbs 11.4 oz! right in the pickle barrel. eaqch wing panel with servos probably close to a pound and the batts .5 lbs so 21 lb overall much better than i anticipated. when i get the tru turn hubs and i cut down the props ill do watt readings and get a watt/lb reading.
about 2 years ago i started going to e power and i didnt know a lipo from a poo! now I tudied and talked to lots of great enginner rc pilots and its all coming together.
about 2 years ago i started going to e power and i didnt know a lipo from a poo! now I tudied and talked to lots of great enginner rc pilots and its all coming together.
