timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

hi ed just in time for me im finishing up the electric mods for the bomb bay. say you dont have a photo cd fror the b-17 do you. BTW that flite metal is great stuff. easy to work with. I can hardly wait to see it on the 17!

tim

FliteMetal

Because B-17's are readily available for documentation I have never shot
a walkaround like the one's I have done for the B-25. Thunderbird is here
in my back yard and I should take the time to do a complete walkaround
now that Michael's B-17's are a reality in three sizes. Glad to see you are
enjoying Rosie Riveter...there is a big difference isn't there ; )

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

sure is. I think people having trouble using flite metal are not glassing , priming and sanding just like they were painting. The nice thing about the 17 is there are lots of panels so wrinkles will not happen. here are more pics first is with the fake fuel bladder second with out the fuel bladder. its held in with rare earth mags. i cant use flash as the aluminum paint blanks the pics out. cheapo camera

beat098

any scale cockpits or figures available for the 25

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

here is the 100%^ completed bomb bay with it all assembled and the pieces taken out for batt charging. the center section with the bombs also pulls out but for the pics i left them in. pic one is army lt kayte (daughter with her new toy ar-15) rest you can see how i made the magnetic parts to his everything.In the last pic toward the feft you see a round silver thing thats is my air filler valve

diverdon

Tim,

Beautiful job.

Well thought out and exacted.

Love the fuel tank.

Don

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

thanks and they did fly that way too! half bombs with extra tanks for range. It helped to have a dad who after flying p-47 worked at randolph field and had all the manuals. No color pics lots of schematics though.


that is really humiliating is when the daughter has to show the dad how to fire a ar-15. she has an ak and a bar in her collection she plays hockey loves baseball and her hubby is also in the army. ( can you say c-17 ride) shes up for promotion and a pcs out of La. Problem is they are not deployable there but the summers are so hot and the spiders so big its amazing. Went for a visit this past summer and saw rattler, widows, and wolf spiders big enough to give you the willies.
the range normally doesnt let ars full mag but for her they let us fill the 30 round clip and go for it! wow! her BAR is incredible.
She is trying to get a g-46 german machine gun and that would be awesome. They have a russian hind and colt biplane flyable ON POST and i got to see them. Went to barksdale and got to see all the 52s

camdyson

Bomb bay, what bomb bay? Oh wait, I see it!..[8D]

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

hey find me a funnel web pic will ya. cAN YOU SEND ME A DEAD ONE IN FORMALDYHDE? IM A BIO TEACHER AND THE KIDS WOULD LOVE THOSE FANGS

camdyson

Sorry Tim - don't get funnel webs much down my corner of Oz. More common up around Sydney. Redbacks are a different story, very commom in most garage (& model workshop..) corners! Not as impressive in the fang department, but still give a good bite!

fytrjok

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Beat,
As of right now, any cockpit detailing will have to be up to you. If you are a practitioner of the ancient art of Scarfology then you should have all the stuff on hand. There's no available cockpit kit for this plane yet that I know of. Top Flite lists one in the instruction manual..."TOPA1714 Cockpit Interior", but I haven't heard anything official about its availability. Maybe Tim Krproton could give us some insight????? As far as crew figures...best (and cheapest)I could find is Century Jet 1/9 WWII. They're $25 for heavy, unpainted, barely acceptable, stand way off and hiding under a foggy canopy scale. Vailly Aviation used to carry this size but no more. There is another manufacturer mentioned in this thread but the price is like, $50 for one figure. I really wish Blue Box Toys would make us a nice run of 1/9 scale WWII aviators...

By the way Tim Krproton, what's the best way to order a spare nose-gunner canopy assembly?

Timothy T.
That bomb bay looks great! I love the EFlite bombs. I was just wondering...how hard is it going to be to see those great details when it flys by at mach 2 with those emotors??

FYI...I was working on engine tuning and sync when one of the screws holding the gear door levers backed out...I will locktite upon reinstallation. Also, I busted the lever and decided to try to make one out of aluminum...not too difficult. I used the other non-broken one as a template and traced around it on a piece of aluminum that was roughly as thick as the original plywood. Then I CAREFULLY cut out the lever with my scroll saw (only had to replace the blade once!) and drilled the appropriate holes. If you haven't done this or purchased the set available from the guy in this thread who sells them, you don't know how much better and easier the whole gear door assembly and actuation can be. I'm wondering how long it will be till I make one for the nose wheel door lever, but that one doesn't seem to have as much stress on it.

Here's a few pics of "The Crew".

Doug

krproton

Hi Doug.

I'll reply to some of your questions;

1. The cockpit interior listed in the instruction manual (TOPA1714) is just the replacement parts for the existing interior--it's nothing new.

2. The way to get another nose-gunner canopy is to order the replacement part listed in the instruction manual (TOPA1715).

By the way, I just checked on the computer and all the replacement parts are actually in transit and will be here by the end of this month.

3. As far as the wood main langing gear door levers go, a good way to strengthen them is to apply thin CA to the edges. The thin CA will soak all the way into the levers through the open end grain of the plywood. Keep adding CA until the wood is saturated and will absorb no more. Allow to harden. This will make the levers much harder and more durable.

I hope this helps!

Tim

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

throttle management

rc74

My Feedback: (6)

Doug Your pics looks great. I am just starting my B25 Was wondering what crew bust you are using. Thanks Ron

fytrjok

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Ron.
The pilots are Century Jet, the nose and tail crew are Hanger 9 latex busts...the nose guy has some aftermarket "legs" glued on for effect.

Tim, I did try to strengthen the levers and even went so far as to use a bit of fiberglass to reinforce. The thing is, with aluminum levers, you can just pop off the clevices for quick adjustment without having to be SO careful not to flex the ply levers too much. I was just able to fine tune the gear door adjustments much more quickly and accurately with the aluminum levers. Oh by the way, do I just order the nose canopy from my LHS?

Thanks,

Doug

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

do sequencing doors. look at the JOMAR EMS site for under 50 and 4 hours your rear nacelle doors will cycle, wish I had a video can

camdyson

Re pilots, the 1/9 Vailly USAAF pilots are nice. I know - I bought the last 2 in existence! Thought they'd gone AWOL in transit, but turned up last week. Apparently they were made by shrinking a larger pilot in fuel(?), but didn't work for new plastics being used, so no more 1/9 pilots!

I've also got a couple of old full-body ones from FTE (from memory) which I may use in the nose/tail - not bad if they're still available.

Cam

diverdon

I used a couple of 1/6 scale (not 1/9)Williams Brothers from Tower.

As bad as the glass is they look pretty good when installed.

Don

camdyson

For anyone who hasn't got started on their wings yet, just a note re the hinges. The hinge pins for the flaps hinges should centre well into the flaps, in the routed out recesses - that way they rotate neater and don't create a big gap when deflected.

Also with the ailerons, push the hinges in the ailerons until the pins are about at the centre of radius of their LE's. Again, that way they rotate scale-like close to the wing.

Yeah-yeah, I know all the experienced guys will spot this, but it wasn't really made clear in the instructions. (was it?) Also ditched the white aileron hinges for Robarts - just looked a little flimsy when flexed. Rather not find out in the air - there's a nice vid on Youtube of a B25 losing an aileron - ouch!

(Kryptonite Tim - I'm sure they're fine. Beautiful kit BTW, nicest ARF I've seen to date.)

Cam

camdyson

Diverdon - me thinks your pilots may be batting for the other team, and body language suggests they're having a tiff.

diverdon

Na,

They are just looking out their respective window at all the woman throwing themselves at them.

Hero worship, you know.

Don

krproton

Hi Cam.

You are correct. The pivot point of the flap hinges should be all the way or most of the way into the recesses/routered cutouts in the flaps. I think if the builder test fits the flaps to the wing with the hinges first and moves the flaps up and down (as instructed in the manual) they will see this, but your tip is still a good one--thanks!

For the smaller, clear/white plastic aileron hinges, they are fine and will hold up, but yea, the small Robart hinges are nicer pieces.

Thanks!

Tim

Bill Giulian

My Feedback: (38)

Tim. Just received my B-25 last week. I have one FS-70 II engine already. However, this engine has been discontinued. Looking at replacements. What is your opinion of the following for the plane:
OS FL-70
OS FS-70 Ultimate (would the pump be a good thing for engine reliability?)
OS 81-FS

I guess I am asking which you would recommend. Thanks Bill Giulian

diverdon

Tim,
Have those graphics( Decals?) come in yet?

Thanks,

Don

krproton

Hi Bill. Thanks for your question. I'm sure others will give their opinions too, so please consider what they say just the same as me...

Since you already have one FS-70 II, I would see if you can locate another. Maybe through hobby shops that may send you one, or on ebay? If buying one from a third party, make sure it is new or virtually new. And of course, buyer be ware.

If you must purchase two new engines, my first choice would be the .81s. Unfortunately, and admittedly, they are VERY expensive. I will be assembling a second B-25 for my self and will be using the .81s (but of course, as I work for the company price isn't so much of an issue for me). I haven't yet fitted an .81 up to the model, so I'm not quite sure how the new exhaust system will match up with the indentations in the fiberglass nacelles for the muffler. Hopefully, there will be no problem. Otherwise, we might have to get a little "creative."

The FL-70s would be fine and I have read a few reviews in the magazines about guys who were using them (those are what our marketing dept. supplied with the kit for the review). Again, I have no personal experience with this engine, but I think this is an "economical" solution--perfectly viable, but toward the economy end of the spectrum.

Regarding the "Ultimate," again, personally, I'm just a little afraid of pumps, but it's due to ignorance (not using a pumped engine) rather than experience. I believe O.S. makes great engines (the best?), and I am sure the pump is reliable, but it's just more parts and I don't think a pump is really necessary (I must really sound like an old fart, but I'm only 44. Maybe I AM an old fart!). However, I must also admit that I am speaking from the position of no experience because I haven't really used a pumped engine before. I am sure there are lots of modelers who swear by pumped engines. I also wonder if there is enough room to fit the engine on the mount with the pump.

Bill, I don't think I've helped you very much here. I REALLY wish O.S. wouldn't have discontinued that .70 Surpass. It is a PERFECTLY good engine! My first option would be to try to find a second one. I would also weigh any other opinions you read in this thread.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Tim