UMS Evolution Radial Care and Operation
#1079
My Feedback: (3)
I agree, JB won't work. What's needed are some precision, pressfit steel rings around all the ends as reinforcement. You'd need a lathe to make parts like that. I do think the replacement Evo777 pushrods will work for your 770 though. I measured the lengths of 10 of mine. They range from a low of 56.74mm to a high of 57.11mm. That's a difference of .014". Not much. At 57.4mm, your pushrod is no more than .011" (inches) longer than my longest pushrod. That's probably not much more than 1 turn of the tappet adjustment screw.
#1082
Senior Member
Hello everyone
over time, I have bought some parts, if dropping a push rod when you go to the field.
I have some with me out.
It takes a long time to get home parts to Sweden.
so my tip buy home parts til your radial engines.
it is so sad to go home without getting fly
Lars
over time, I have bought some parts, if dropping a push rod when you go to the field.
I have some with me out.
It takes a long time to get home parts to Sweden.
so my tip buy home parts til your radial engines.
it is so sad to go home without getting fly
Lars
#1084
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: ipswich, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 59
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Hi Guys
I have a evo 7-77cc.
I am just about to fit the engine in my 50 to 60 cc yak 55.
I needed to move the engine forward 32mm and have had turned up out of aircraft grade alloy some stand offs, they measure 32mm long by 25mm diameter.
While reading the owners manual looking for how far back I can mount my fuel tank I notice they say do not use stand offs as the vibration will damage the back mounting plate and the engine will detach from the model.
Are any of you guys using stand offs? the stand offs at 25mm diameter do have a good surface area to spread the load. Or do I have to make up a solid firewall 32mm thick it will weight a lot!!!!
Also they say that the fuel tank can only be mounted 100mm away from the carb?i need atleast140 to fit the tank in the right position.
How far back are your tanks ?
Many thanks Steve
I have a evo 7-77cc.
I am just about to fit the engine in my 50 to 60 cc yak 55.
I needed to move the engine forward 32mm and have had turned up out of aircraft grade alloy some stand offs, they measure 32mm long by 25mm diameter.
While reading the owners manual looking for how far back I can mount my fuel tank I notice they say do not use stand offs as the vibration will damage the back mounting plate and the engine will detach from the model.
Are any of you guys using stand offs? the stand offs at 25mm diameter do have a good surface area to spread the load. Or do I have to make up a solid firewall 32mm thick it will weight a lot!!!!
Also they say that the fuel tank can only be mounted 100mm away from the carb?i need atleast140 to fit the tank in the right position.
How far back are your tanks ?
Many thanks Steve
#1085
My Feedback: (128)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Naperville,
IL
Posts: 395
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I usually make standoffs out of hardwood or plywood - 32mm would be 1-1/4", so not too heavy? With the three-bolt pattern of a 777 might be easiest to glue up a piece of 1/2" and 3/4", then saw & sand it to a shape similar to the mounting flange. A couple of coats of epoxy and you're ready to go!
#1091
#1093
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: East Aurora,
NY
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I am afraid that Dad Roman is correct. I have tried every available solvent. The best I can do is soften it somewhat and carefully scrape it off.
I like using masks cut by the computer controlled vinyl cutter. Previously I cut them myself from low tack shelf paper. The large circles in particular are much more accurately done by the computer controlled device. Any advice on a suitable material with a lower tack adhesive? I would never again try the commonly available vinyl, presently used for graphics, as a mask.
I like using masks cut by the computer controlled vinyl cutter. Previously I cut them myself from low tack shelf paper. The large circles in particular are much more accurately done by the computer controlled device. Any advice on a suitable material with a lower tack adhesive? I would never again try the commonly available vinyl, presently used for graphics, as a mask.
#1095
I am afraid that Dad Roman is correct. I have tried every available solvent. The best I can do is soften it somewhat and carefully scrape it off.
I like using masks cut by the computer controlled vinyl cutter. Previously I cut them myself from low tack shelf paper. The large circles in particular are much more accurately done by the computer controlled device. Any advice on a suitable material with a lower tack adhesive? I would never again try the commonly available vinyl, presently used for graphics, as a mask.
I like using masks cut by the computer controlled vinyl cutter. Previously I cut them myself from low tack shelf paper. The large circles in particular are much more accurately done by the computer controlled device. Any advice on a suitable material with a lower tack adhesive? I would never again try the commonly available vinyl, presently used for graphics, as a mask.
Anything stronger than a general solvent will start to melt the paint itself.....ouch.
I used 6inch silicone tape, but this is a roll like ductape so its not cuttable on a plotter/cutter. (dadgummed expensive too)!!!
Here's a crazy idea for your cutter. I have 16 inch clear tack tape. maybe you have some 6". Try removing the vynil from the slick backing paper and then put the tack tape on that then cut it. With that adhesive designed to "let go" you might have better luck.
#1096
#1097
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (62)
Hi all, It is just about 70 degrees here in Indianapolis. Thought I would go over a short check list to begin the flying season.
1. Is your engine clean? Brake cleaner is effective but if used it will remove ALL oil!!
2. lube the followers, pushrod ends, rocker pivots, between the rocker and valve stem and the stem itself within the spring. I like those model train oilers.
3. Drain the lower cylinders of oil! There will be a lot of oil!
4. Valves adjusted???
5. Cycle the glow igniter batteries.
6. Mounting bolts tight?
7. Prop nut tight?
8. Correct oil content in the fuel?
Wishing all a great flying season! -Tom
1. Is your engine clean? Brake cleaner is effective but if used it will remove ALL oil!!
2. lube the followers, pushrod ends, rocker pivots, between the rocker and valve stem and the stem itself within the spring. I like those model train oilers.
3. Drain the lower cylinders of oil! There will be a lot of oil!
4. Valves adjusted???
5. Cycle the glow igniter batteries.
6. Mounting bolts tight?
7. Prop nut tight?
8. Correct oil content in the fuel?
Wishing all a great flying season! -Tom
#1100
My Feedback: (4)
Ok, here are some pics of my Stearman, and thanks to Rick, "Pull up now" on the exhaust ring "aka" Lowes sprinker ring, as this was made as per the pics done by Rick, on thread #527 page 22, finally got the engine mounted and now need to hook every thing up and should be able to maiden the first flight in a week or so.
Last edited by slskn; 04-15-2014 at 05:05 AM.