are these blades any good for cp pro?
07-24-2010, 07:06 AM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Wow JPEE,
I think I would have rather watched the cabnets be installed then go through all that you did with the clone Pro!!
Sorry you had to go through all of that in one day.
If you remember my Pro is also a clone (Tarot) and I had issues with the tail grip bearings being notchy. I replaced them with Aligns but had to back out that tiny grip screw just a tad so the grip would rotate freely. I think my first few flights I was expecting the tail grip to fly off in flight [X(] and I did check them after each flight to make sure the loctite was holding. Luckily everything held and I had no other issues with the tail. I was wondering if Aligns Pro tail grips had the same issues - if the grip screw was tightened firmly did it cause the grip to not rotate freely? Maybe Glenn can chime in with his experience with the 'real deal' Pro!
I do believe that I replaced the main gears and one-way w/ post right off the bat when first building it - there was some talk of warped one-way posts on HF (for Tarot clones, don't know about HK) and didn't want to have to deal with it at a later date. Glad you were able to track things down there inpector J.
After owning a clone I will agree with you JPEE, no more clones in the future. Too many parts to have to replace or keep a close eye on to keep the heli flying smoothly. In the short run you save money but it gets you in the long run.
Nick,
Glad to hear things are looking up for the Velocity. Vibrations are such a PITA! Good luck on the calculator and improving the mechanical setup. Just out of curiosity is the calculator specific for only one type of heli or can it be used on any heli's mechanical setup?
Glenn,
Hope this weekend is good for you in terms of having a field to fly at. I can definitely relate.
Thursday morning I had a close call at the field I found near my job (the one that is much smaller then the one I flew at in SC) - seems there is a large oak tree just to the right of the field that I didn't think would be a problem. Yeah, it could have been a big problem. Time to find another flying area.
Glad your enjoying the Gaui again. Isn't it funny how some heli's you think you want to get rid of but once you try them out again you tell yourself 'what was I thinking'?!
jreue,
How's the rebuild coming along for the 250? Good catch on resizing the head links, I think you'll find the head much more responsive now.
Mark
I think I would have rather watched the cabnets be installed then go through all that you did with the clone Pro!!
Sorry you had to go through all of that in one day. If you remember my Pro is also a clone (Tarot) and I had issues with the tail grip bearings being notchy. I replaced them with Aligns but had to back out that tiny grip screw just a tad so the grip would rotate freely. I think my first few flights I was expecting the tail grip to fly off in flight [X(] and I did check them after each flight to make sure the loctite was holding. Luckily everything held and I had no other issues with the tail. I was wondering if Aligns Pro tail grips had the same issues - if the grip screw was tightened firmly did it cause the grip to not rotate freely? Maybe Glenn can chime in with his experience with the 'real deal' Pro!
I do believe that I replaced the main gears and one-way w/ post right off the bat when first building it - there was some talk of warped one-way posts on HF (for Tarot clones, don't know about HK) and didn't want to have to deal with it at a later date. Glad you were able to track things down there inpector J.
After owning a clone I will agree with you JPEE, no more clones in the future. Too many parts to have to replace or keep a close eye on to keep the heli flying smoothly. In the short run you save money but it gets you in the long run.
Nick,
Glad to hear things are looking up for the Velocity. Vibrations are such a PITA!
Good luck on the calculator and improving the mechanical setup. Just out of curiosity is the calculator specific for only one type of heli or can it be used on any heli's mechanical setup? Glenn,
Hope this weekend is good for you in terms of having a field to fly at. I can definitely relate.
Thursday morning I had a close call at the field I found near my job (the one that is much smaller then the one I flew at in SC) - seems there is a large oak tree just to the right of the field that I didn't think would be a problem. Yeah, it could have been a big problem. Time to find another flying area.
Glad your enjoying the Gaui again. Isn't it funny how some heli's you think you want to get rid of but once you try them out again you tell yourself 'what was I thinking'?!
jreue,
How's the rebuild coming along for the 250? Good catch on resizing the head links, I think you'll find the head much more responsive now.
Mark
07-24-2010, 08:18 AM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Hey guys,
I'm running into some issues setting up my head on the 250. There is not much to adjust at all on this head, so I'm at a bit of a standstill as to what to try next. Here is what I got so far
[ul][*]At MID, servo arms are at 90 [*]Swash is completely level at LOW, MID, HIGH[*]When the head is on, washout arms, seasaw, etc is all completely level at MID
[/ul]
Problem is my pitch readings:
As you can see, Blade1 is symmetrical; being +5 off of 10, 0 -10
For this one, I tried to reduce the length of the only adjustable link on the head. Problem is, I can't reduce the length of the rod enough to cut of 5 degrees.
I'd like to stress, all rod lengths are the exact length specified by the manual. I have checked and re-check I don't know how many times.
Blade 2 is not symmetrical at all. This makes no sense to me as the rest of the head setup is perfectly square all around.... Any ideas???
Considering I cant reduce the length of the head linkage rod for Blade1, I'm thinking my only recourse is to drop the entire head down by adjusting the servo-swash linkages.
Again, it's very odd to me why this is happening because a) all rods are built to the manual spec and b) there are very few rods to adjust and c) the who head is square.
I'll post some pics in a bit, but this will give something for you guys to chew on
I'm running into some issues setting up my head on the 250. There is not much to adjust at all on this head, so I'm at a bit of a standstill as to what to try next. Here is what I got so far
[ul][*]At MID, servo arms are at 90 [*]Swash is completely level at LOW, MID, HIGH[*]When the head is on, washout arms, seasaw, etc is all completely level at MID
[/ul]
Problem is my pitch readings:
Code:
Blade1 Blade2 HIGH +15 +15 MID +5 0 LOW -5 -10
As you can see, Blade1 is symmetrical; being +5 off of 10, 0 -10
For this one, I tried to reduce the length of the only adjustable link on the head. Problem is, I can't reduce the length of the rod enough to cut of 5 degrees.
I'd like to stress, all rod lengths are the exact length specified by the manual. I have checked and re-check I don't know how many times.
Blade 2 is not symmetrical at all. This makes no sense to me as the rest of the head setup is perfectly square all around.... Any ideas???
Considering I cant reduce the length of the head linkage rod for Blade1, I'm thinking my only recourse is to drop the entire head down by adjusting the servo-swash linkages.
Again, it's very odd to me why this is happening because a) all rods are built to the manual spec and b) there are very few rods to adjust and c) the who head is square.
I'll post some pics in a bit, but this will give something for you guys to chew on
07-24-2010, 12:43 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Mark,
The calculator is just for flybarless helis using the Mikado Vbar. It is also just for cyclic gain and not for tail gain. It is pretty simple to use. I just have to have a couple of settings the same that they recommend in the software. Then I measure the two distances of the inner and outer swash balls. Then I measure the max pitch. I enter those into the calculator then it gives a recommended cyclic gain. The goal is to adjust the mechanical setup until the gain gets close to 100. I finished setting up the new mechanical setup. I am using servo horns that I would normally use on a 450 sized heli. I just have to loc tite a few things. They also have a calculator to determine if your heli would work well converting to flybarless. Then I redid the the mechanical setup on the tail.
Last night I read through the Multigov thread on Helifreak looking for tips on how to set it up better. I forgot a few things when I switched over to the Vbar and had to set it up again. I am also thinking about using the engine mixture control that is built into the Multigov Pro. It wouldn't cost that much since I already have a servo for it. It is just a matter of finding the parts for it. It seems that hardly anyone is selling the Carbsmart online and they supplied most of the parts.
Jreue,
I would also recommend to adjust the swash pushrods to lower the pitch. I only use the length in the manual as a good starting point. Then I adjust the pushrods to what they should be.
Nick
The calculator is just for flybarless helis using the Mikado Vbar. It is also just for cyclic gain and not for tail gain. It is pretty simple to use. I just have to have a couple of settings the same that they recommend in the software. Then I measure the two distances of the inner and outer swash balls. Then I measure the max pitch. I enter those into the calculator then it gives a recommended cyclic gain. The goal is to adjust the mechanical setup until the gain gets close to 100. I finished setting up the new mechanical setup. I am using servo horns that I would normally use on a 450 sized heli. I just have to loc tite a few things. They also have a calculator to determine if your heli would work well converting to flybarless. Then I redid the the mechanical setup on the tail.
Last night I read through the Multigov thread on Helifreak looking for tips on how to set it up better. I forgot a few things when I switched over to the Vbar and had to set it up again. I am also thinking about using the engine mixture control that is built into the Multigov Pro. It wouldn't cost that much since I already have a servo for it. It is just a matter of finding the parts for it. It seems that hardly anyone is selling the Carbsmart online and they supplied most of the parts.
Jreue,
I would also recommend to adjust the swash pushrods to lower the pitch. I only use the length in the manual as a good starting point. Then I adjust the pushrods to what they should be.
Nick
07-24-2010, 02:41 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Hey guys,
Gotta catch up here.....
JPEE,
Glad the noise is now gone....but now another gremlin has presented itself I guess...sounds like you and Mark found a fix for the notchy tail grips, so that is good...
From hearing ya'll's stories, I am glad I didn't go the clone route....it sure puts a dent in the bank account buying the real thing...but both of these helis are great, and very reliable, esp the newer one with the improved motor...speaking of that motor in the original, it is happily buzzing/rattling along, seems to be no worse or noiser than it was a while back...I keep lubing the bearings...
Sorry your CNC head was bent...I guess you can't get separate parts for that head? Nice to hear that you got the B400 up and fying with a stock head and woodies...probably flies decent....in ways I do miss the way my B400 flew...they are very lght, and responsive...
I was really amazed with the performance of the Gaui. The only problem with that little guy is that it's not much fun to fly unless the air is still...but when it is, it sure is a blast!
Mark,
Sorry to hear about your close call....trees scare me...lol...they have a mean way of coming out and grabbing helis...so far, I've been very lucky...no helis in trees yet....almost one on a rooftop in the early days though....[X(]
I am sooo glad I didn't sell the Gaui, and you are correct, it's funny how you forget how much fun a heli can be...and then think of getting rid of it...I'm happy I kept it after all. I won't fly it much probably, but it's sure fun when everything is right, including the weather....
The Align tail grips have no issues that I have encoutered so far...never given them a second thought since I took them apart on the build, lubed the bearings, and loctited/assembled them...
Nick,
That sounds like a pretty cool calculator. I have not seen anyone use it that I am aware of on their V-bars yet.
I read into the carb mixture part of the Multigov, since that is probably the governor I will also get...I guess you'll get to make a thermistor head temp sensor if you do the carb mixture part...looks pretty easy. I also could not find any/many parts listed to make up the mixture adjusting parts for the carb, except Hirobo makes them, it was strange seeing a listing for them in an optional parts list for the SDX...
I have read good and not so good on the mixture adjusting setup...but I think it's a good idea....for example, when my SDX leans out because of the header tank issue, a governor would likely just cover up or mask that problem, and I would never hear or notice it, and the engine would get hot from running lean.....with the carbsmart, it would compensate....
Some of the articles I read said that it wasn't consistent, that the weather, humidity, temperature, fuel type, etc all come into play, and makes it hard for the carbsmart to give a consistent mixture...
Hope you get the Velocity all worked out...
I'm not flying today, it is just outrageously hot here, the heat index at BWI airport is 109 degrees...[X(]
Glenn
Gotta catch up here.....
JPEE,
Glad the noise is now gone....but now another gremlin has presented itself I guess...sounds like you and Mark found a fix for the notchy tail grips, so that is good...
From hearing ya'll's stories, I am glad I didn't go the clone route....it sure puts a dent in the bank account buying the real thing...but both of these helis are great, and very reliable, esp the newer one with the improved motor...speaking of that motor in the original, it is happily buzzing/rattling along, seems to be no worse or noiser than it was a while back...I keep lubing the bearings...
Sorry your CNC head was bent...I guess you can't get separate parts for that head? Nice to hear that you got the B400 up and fying with a stock head and woodies...probably flies decent....in ways I do miss the way my B400 flew...they are very lght, and responsive...
I was really amazed with the performance of the Gaui. The only problem with that little guy is that it's not much fun to fly unless the air is still...but when it is, it sure is a blast!
Mark,
Sorry to hear about your close call....trees scare me...lol...they have a mean way of coming out and grabbing helis...so far, I've been very lucky...no helis in trees yet....almost one on a rooftop in the early days though....[X(]
I am sooo glad I didn't sell the Gaui, and you are correct, it's funny how you forget how much fun a heli can be...and then think of getting rid of it...I'm happy I kept it after all. I won't fly it much probably, but it's sure fun when everything is right, including the weather....
The Align tail grips have no issues that I have encoutered so far...never given them a second thought since I took them apart on the build, lubed the bearings, and loctited/assembled them...
Nick,
That sounds like a pretty cool calculator. I have not seen anyone use it that I am aware of on their V-bars yet.
I read into the carb mixture part of the Multigov, since that is probably the governor I will also get...I guess you'll get to make a thermistor head temp sensor if you do the carb mixture part...looks pretty easy. I also could not find any/many parts listed to make up the mixture adjusting parts for the carb, except Hirobo makes them, it was strange seeing a listing for them in an optional parts list for the SDX...
I have read good and not so good on the mixture adjusting setup...but I think it's a good idea....for example, when my SDX leans out because of the header tank issue, a governor would likely just cover up or mask that problem, and I would never hear or notice it, and the engine would get hot from running lean.....with the carbsmart, it would compensate....
Some of the articles I read said that it wasn't consistent, that the weather, humidity, temperature, fuel type, etc all come into play, and makes it hard for the carbsmart to give a consistent mixture...
Hope you get the Velocity all worked out...
I'm not flying today, it is just outrageously hot here, the heat index at BWI airport is 109 degrees...[X(]
Glenn
07-24-2010, 07:01 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Glenn,
I was looking around earier today and I saw Readyheli had all the parts for a mixture control. I looked at my heli and it doesn't look like there is a lot of room to put a mixture servo in the canopy, so I probably won't do it. I only saw one person on Helifreak use a mixture control on a Velocity.
I got the Velocity flying pretty good today. I just have some little stuff to work out. I am suprised how good the little servo horns worked out. I am now using the revlimiter on the Multigov and I am liking that better than the govenor. Once I was done I managed to drop my transmitter trying to open a door.[&o] I will have to check that out later. I think it would be smart if I got a transmitter case.
Nick
I was looking around earier today and I saw Readyheli had all the parts for a mixture control. I looked at my heli and it doesn't look like there is a lot of room to put a mixture servo in the canopy, so I probably won't do it. I only saw one person on Helifreak use a mixture control on a Velocity.
I got the Velocity flying pretty good today. I just have some little stuff to work out. I am suprised how good the little servo horns worked out. I am now using the revlimiter on the Multigov and I am liking that better than the govenor. Once I was done I managed to drop my transmitter trying to open a door.[&o] I will have to check that out later. I think it would be smart if I got a transmitter case.
Nick
07-24-2010, 08:57 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Nick,
I was going to ask about the mounting situation on the Velocity...the SDX has an open servo slot right above the carb just for that reason...
It's a full size servo mount, and most people I see doing the mixture servos seem to use micro servos...but I'm sure a larger one will work fine, just a weight penalty to pay.
Cool that you got some improvement with the smaller horns, I guess the geometry works out better?
That guy that writes the shop and field manual (Ray Hostetler) is not a big fan of governors, he prefers program mixing, but he does like rev limiters alot...he claims that with mixing the throttle gets opened as the TX stick is moved, and there is no (however slight) delay for governor to react and move the throttle servo.
Ouch, sorry to hear about dropping the TX. At least you wear a strap when you fly, Justin was flying with a guy that had no strap, while he was flying, he dropped his radio!![X(][X(]
It apparently fell sticks up...so he was able to quickly pick it up and save the heli.
I love the case I got for the 9503, and it wasn't terribly expensive....$53...
It was WAAAYY to hot to fly today...it's still almost 90 degrees at 10 PM....
Doesn't look a whole lot better for tomorrow....hot and then big storms...
I did get something done today, I went to work and washed and waxed the Forester (in the A/C..)...so it wasn't a complete waste of a day.
Have you heard of a company called Lynx?
I freind at MHA said he saw an aluminum cooling fan for the SDX made by them....I think they are part of Nova Rossi engines...?
Glenn
I was going to ask about the mounting situation on the Velocity...the SDX has an open servo slot right above the carb just for that reason...
It's a full size servo mount, and most people I see doing the mixture servos seem to use micro servos...but I'm sure a larger one will work fine, just a weight penalty to pay.
Cool that you got some improvement with the smaller horns, I guess the geometry works out better?
That guy that writes the shop and field manual (Ray Hostetler) is not a big fan of governors, he prefers program mixing, but he does like rev limiters alot...he claims that with mixing the throttle gets opened as the TX stick is moved, and there is no (however slight) delay for governor to react and move the throttle servo.
Ouch, sorry to hear about dropping the TX. At least you wear a strap when you fly, Justin was flying with a guy that had no strap, while he was flying, he dropped his radio!![X(][X(]
It apparently fell sticks up...so he was able to quickly pick it up and save the heli.
I love the case I got for the 9503, and it wasn't terribly expensive....$53...
It was WAAAYY to hot to fly today...it's still almost 90 degrees at 10 PM....
Doesn't look a whole lot better for tomorrow....hot and then big storms...
I did get something done today, I went to work and washed and waxed the Forester (in the A/C..
)...so it wasn't a complete waste of a day. Have you heard of a company called Lynx?
I freind at MHA said he saw an aluminum cooling fan for the SDX made by them....I think they are part of Nova Rossi engines...?
Glenn
07-24-2010, 09:04 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Nick,
I found that fan....looks pretty cool, and not very expensive at all...might well be worth a try....
Looks like they make one for the Velocity too!
http://lynxheli.com/index.php?option...d=33&Itemid=13
I'll have to see how the heli funds go this week....work has been bad lately...[&o]
Glenn
I found that fan....looks pretty cool, and not very expensive at all...might well be worth a try....
Looks like they make one for the Velocity too!
http://lynxheli.com/index.php?option...d=33&Itemid=13
I'll have to see how the heli funds go this week....work has been bad lately...[&o]
Glenn
07-24-2010, 09:43 PM
RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Hey Glenn,
We were eating supper tonight and watching TV and saw your temps along with humidity and thought OUCH!
Got no opinion the Nitro stuff, you and Nick are on another planet there from me. I am going flying with both helis and the Apprentice tomorrow Sunday at 6:00 a.m. while it is still cool. It got in the upper 90's here today. I bought one of those key chain cam video thingies and put some velcro on top of my wing and on the camera and will try to take a video. I have been playing with it over all it ain't half bad.
Take care and good luck Nick and Mark.
JPEE
We were eating supper tonight and watching TV and saw your temps along with humidity and thought OUCH!
Got no opinion the Nitro stuff, you and Nick are on another planet there from me. I am going flying with both helis and the Apprentice tomorrow Sunday at 6:00 a.m. while it is still cool. It got in the upper 90's here today. I bought one of those key chain cam video thingies and put some velcro on top of my wing and on the camera and will try to take a video. I have been playing with it over all it ain't half bad.
Take care and good luck Nick and Mark.
JPEE
07-24-2010, 10:02 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
i am DONE. I have spent the last 4 hours rebuilding the every link on this head from scratch! I disassembled every single one and rebuilt them all to the manual specifications. triple checking EVERYTHING.
Mind you, there are only 5 links on the ENTIRE head! 3 from the servos and 2 on the head. That's it!. All other links are non adjustable. I have went over and over and over and over till i'm blue in the face measuring EVERYTHING.
The swash is PERFECTLY level at LOW MID HIGH. I drop the head on and everything is completely LEVEL. All the arms, linkages, all the typical stuff that you look at to make sure the head is level.
But once again, there is inconsistencies in the pitch readings. Pretty much the exact readings as in my previous post.
On my one side where it was 15, 5, -5, I reduced the length of the link in the head as much as i could which only gave me 2 degrees. so I was 12, 3, -7. I CANNOT make the link any shorted because the metal rod breaks through to the plastic hole where the ball goes.....
I attempted to lower the swash, but I can only get about 2 full turns on my servo linkages till again, the rods go through the plastic to the hole.....
I am at a COMPLETE loss here. When i originally built this, it came out -10,0,10 on both blades and that was built to the manual.... I did not have to screw around one bit with this type of heavy modification...
I just cannot believe I have been screwing around with this head for now 4 DAYS and it is this off! There is nothing more to adjust! ARG!!!!!!
Mind you, there are only 5 links on the ENTIRE head! 3 from the servos and 2 on the head. That's it!. All other links are non adjustable. I have went over and over and over and over till i'm blue in the face measuring EVERYTHING.
The swash is PERFECTLY level at LOW MID HIGH. I drop the head on and everything is completely LEVEL. All the arms, linkages, all the typical stuff that you look at to make sure the head is level.
But once again, there is inconsistencies in the pitch readings. Pretty much the exact readings as in my previous post.
On my one side where it was 15, 5, -5, I reduced the length of the link in the head as much as i could which only gave me 2 degrees. so I was 12, 3, -7. I CANNOT make the link any shorted because the metal rod breaks through to the plastic hole where the ball goes.....
I attempted to lower the swash, but I can only get about 2 full turns on my servo linkages till again, the rods go through the plastic to the hole.....
I am at a COMPLETE loss here. When i originally built this, it came out -10,0,10 on both blades and that was built to the manual.... I did not have to screw around one bit with this type of heavy modification...
I just cannot believe I have been screwing around with this head for now 4 DAYS and it is this off! There is nothing more to adjust! ARG!!!!!!
07-24-2010, 10:12 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Glenn,
The Velocity has two holes on the frame for a mixture servo mount. Outrage doesn't sell the mount, so someone used one off of a T-Rex 600N.
I guess with the push pull levers there is a lot more throw than a FBL heli needs. So Mikado recommends using smaller servo horns to reduce the throw. It kind of goes against everything I know because there is hardly anything at 90 on my Velocity right now.
It kind of sounds like my engine is hunting with the govenor and it sounds a lot smoother with the rev limiter. It would probably help if I had a faster throttle servo.
Sorry you have hot weather there.
That is cool you got to wax the Forester in AC.
Yeah, I saw that Lynx fan on Helidirect for the Velocity.
Sorry work has been bad for you.
JPEE,
Have fun flying tomorrow.
Nick
The Velocity has two holes on the frame for a mixture servo mount. Outrage doesn't sell the mount, so someone used one off of a T-Rex 600N.
I guess with the push pull levers there is a lot more throw than a FBL heli needs. So Mikado recommends using smaller servo horns to reduce the throw. It kind of goes against everything I know because there is hardly anything at 90 on my Velocity right now.
It kind of sounds like my engine is hunting with the govenor and it sounds a lot smoother with the rev limiter. It would probably help if I had a faster throttle servo.
Sorry you have hot weather there.
That is cool you got to wax the Forester in AC.
Yeah, I saw that Lynx fan on Helidirect for the Velocity.
Sorry work has been bad for you.
JPEE,
Have fun flying tomorrow.
Nick
07-25-2010, 07:54 AM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Hi guys,
Glenn and Nick, I am with JPEE on the nitro talk being on Planet X for me - mixture servo's, rev limiters, clutch fans...yikes!
Have fun flying tomorrow morning JPEE - are you taking your 500 along or just the Pro and 600? Over here on the lower east coast, it is still dark at 6am, 6:30 is about the earliest you can fly with the amount of light. Have fun!
Congrats on getting that pin camera - I saw a video shot by Ivan (I think) where he placed it on that back of a parkflier and the footage was really nice. I wonder if something that small could be velcro'd onto the bottom of a 450 heli and flown around - I'm sure the weight wouldn't be of consequence and if you get the right angle I'd imagine you would get some good video shots, at the very least a bird's eye view of your flying area.
Nick and Glenn, scary stuff hearing about dropping transmitters. Reminds me of my earlier days when I used to try carrying my transmitter in one hand and the heli in the other. I was at the field and was taking my plugged-in 450 to its take-off position and had my transmitter in the other hand and it slipped - with the neck strap attached. Not a good situation wrestling to hold a full throttle 450 weedeater in one hand and trying to get to the idle up switch on the dangling tx with the other hand. Learned very quickly from that day forward to not rush things with these heli's.
Nick, hope all is fine with your transmitter.
Glenn, waxing your car in the AC - oh how nice is life!
I get to replace the back drum brakes in my 2000 Saturn today. During my single days I used the car to tow a waverunner and launched it in saltwater, so needless to say a good portion of the back of the car has considerable rust. I did wash everything down after each day's boating but I guess corrosion is bound to happen. So I get to replace the wheel cylinders, wheel hubs, brakes - and I have to take it in to the shop to have a 3 foot section of brake line replaced b/c it developed a pinhole break from rust. [
] Not a fun day last week when you hit the brake pedal and suddenly find your not stopping. [X(] Thank goodness for that emergency brake and some quick downshifting. I think next time I get a boat I'm going to get a truck and stick to freshwater lakes!
jreue,
I know how frustrated you must feel with spending all that time and things still aren't lining up.
From your numbers your pitch isn't 0 degrees at midstick - you need to adjust the swash height until you have that down pat first before worrying about max pitch. If your swash is level then all your links are adjusted mechanically and you just need to make adjustments in the radio. Go back to your swash settings in your radio and adjust the pitch settings up or down and see if that will get you to 0 degrees at midstick.
Mark
Glenn and Nick, I am with JPEE on the nitro talk being on Planet X for me - mixture servo's, rev limiters, clutch fans...yikes!
Have fun flying tomorrow morning JPEE - are you taking your 500 along or just the Pro and 600? Over here on the lower east coast, it is still dark at 6am, 6:30 is about the earliest you can fly with the amount of light. Have fun!
Congrats on getting that pin camera - I saw a video shot by Ivan (I think) where he placed it on that back of a parkflier and the footage was really nice. I wonder if something that small could be velcro'd onto the bottom of a 450 heli and flown around - I'm sure the weight wouldn't be of consequence and if you get the right angle I'd imagine you would get some good video shots, at the very least a bird's eye view of your flying area.
Nick and Glenn, scary stuff hearing about dropping transmitters. Reminds me of my earlier days when I used to try carrying my transmitter in one hand and the heli in the other. I was at the field and was taking my plugged-in 450 to its take-off position and had my transmitter in the other hand and it slipped - with the neck strap attached.
Not a good situation wrestling to hold a full throttle 450 weedeater in one hand and trying to get to the idle up switch on the dangling tx with the other hand. Learned very quickly from that day forward to not rush things with these heli's. Nick, hope all is fine with your transmitter.
Glenn, waxing your car in the AC - oh how nice is life!
I get to replace the back drum brakes in my 2000 Saturn today. During my single days I used the car to tow a waverunner and launched it in saltwater, so needless to say a good portion of the back of the car has considerable rust. I did wash everything down after each day's boating but I guess corrosion is bound to happen. So I get to replace the wheel cylinders, wheel hubs, brakes - and I have to take it in to the shop to have a 3 foot section of brake line replaced b/c it developed a pinhole break from rust. [
] Not a fun day last week when you hit the brake pedal and suddenly find your not stopping. [X(] Thank goodness for that emergency brake and some quick downshifting. I think next time I get a boat I'm going to get a truck and stick to freshwater lakes! jreue,
I know how frustrated you must feel with spending all that time and things still aren't lining up.
From your numbers your pitch isn't 0 degrees at midstick - you need to adjust the swash height until you have that down pat first before worrying about max pitch. If your swash is level then all your links are adjusted mechanically and you just need to make adjustments in the radio. Go back to your swash settings in your radio and adjust the pitch settings up or down and see if that will get you to 0 degrees at midstick.
Mark
07-25-2010, 10:04 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Hey guys,
Sitting here on the iPad, in my car....
Earlier today, about 3PM, when it was 100 degrees, we got one heck of a storm....75 MPH winds, uprooted trees, knocked out power...and it's still off...
It's a lot cooler outside than in, so I've been going to stores and stuff to keep cool and from being bored to death!!!!
Going on 8 hours with no power....this sucks!!!
Hope everyone is doing better than me!
Could be worse, there were a couple of fatalities from fallen trees landing on vehicles......
I'll check in later, gotta go get some ice......
Glenn
Sitting here on the iPad, in my car....
Earlier today, about 3PM, when it was 100 degrees, we got one heck of a storm....75 MPH winds, uprooted trees, knocked out power...and it's still off...
It's a lot cooler outside than in, so I've been going to stores and stuff to keep cool and from being bored to death!!!!
Going on 8 hours with no power....this sucks!!!
Hope everyone is doing better than me!
Could be worse, there were a couple of fatalities from fallen trees landing on vehicles......
I'll check in later, gotta go get some ice......
Glenn
07-26-2010, 07:56 AM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Nick,
Thanks....the power finally came on last night at 1:30, but the cable was out...
THe iPad battery is amazing, it's a huge Li Ion or Li Poly, depending on what you read...at any rate, it lasts a long time...like 10 hours + ...
Now I have to reset everything, and organize, I had to put stuff in the fridge in coolers with ice, so I put that away this morning before work.
That storm did a lot of damage for only lasting 15 minutes, and it came very suddenly...at least it wasn't a tornado.
Glad your transmitter is OK..
Glenn
Thanks....the power finally came on last night at 1:30, but the cable was out...
THe iPad battery is amazing, it's a huge Li Ion or Li Poly, depending on what you read...at any rate, it lasts a long time...like 10 hours + ...
Now I have to reset everything, and organize, I had to put stuff in the fridge in coolers with ice, so I put that away this morning before work.
That storm did a lot of damage for only lasting 15 minutes, and it came very suddenly...at least it wasn't a tornado.
Glad your transmitter is OK..
Glenn
07-26-2010, 08:44 AM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Ok I got a few questions about my head setup issue and the suggested adjustment to the swash mix pitch setting.
again here are my current pitch readings:
I don't have my TX here to test this out as I'm at work, but lets say I adjust my SwashMix Pitch setting in my TX. Won't this just adjust the min & max pitch you get? So, adjusting it, I would expect to get on Blade1, +10, +5, 0. I thing it just expands or reduces your pitch 'range' not the entire head right? The idea being you could get everything set up to say +10, 0, -10 and then just adjust your swash pix to give you more advanced +12,0,-12 or more tame +8,0,-8 pitch; all without adjusting links.
Am I correct?
again here are my current pitch readings:
Code:
Blade1 Blade2 HIGH +15 +15 MID +5 0 LOW -5 -10
Am I correct?
07-26-2010, 08:55 AM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Yea, from the DX6i manual.
This is the problem I'm facing. That one blade is +5 at MID. The first thing that comes to mind is 'shorten the linkages' to reduce the pitch. Well the problem I'm facing is I can't. I can't reduce them much more because the linkage will break through the plastic into the hole where the ball goes..... My only recourse would be to 'cut' down the rod length all together but this is just all to weird.
And that does not solve the asymmetrical throw I'm getting on Blade2. 0 at MID, -10 at low and +15 at HIGH???
I have triple check, over and over to see if anything is bent, misaligned, and everything to possibly explain this phenomenon, but I can't find anything. I' will try and post some good close up pic's tonight to see if you guys can't see anything.
If anyone has any other suggestions, let me know.
Code:
The Swashplate Mix screen adjusts the amount and direction of travel for the aileron, elevator and pitch functions. For example, if more aileron travel is desired, increasing the aileron swashplate mix value will increase the overall travel of the servos necessary to achieve greater aileron throw. Defaults are set to +60%.
And that does not solve the asymmetrical throw I'm getting on Blade2. 0 at MID, -10 at low and +15 at HIGH???
I have triple check, over and over to see if anything is bent, misaligned, and everything to possibly explain this phenomenon, but I can't find anything. I' will try and post some good close up pic's tonight to see if you guys can't see anything.
If anyone has any other suggestions, let me know.
07-26-2010, 10:24 AM
RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Hello Jreue,
I want to offer some out of the box thoughts on your problem. Some are thoughts and some are ideas or suggestions, and some questions.
1. Recently in working on my 450 Pro I had the swash plate level at mid stick. Then as it rose to the top the elevator lifted a few degrees more the side pitch and aileron did. Have you looked and seen that the swash remains level from start to finish?
2. Have to you checked your radio in the monitor section of the menu to see if that shows all three are moving at the same rate when you push the throttle up and down?
3. If I recall this all came to pass only after a crash, have you considered reversing the pitch and aileron servos in the frame to see if the issue transfers to the other blade?
4. Have to considered setting up another slot in your radio for this helicopter "without" a radio copy from one slot to the next but a new set up by your inputs to the new slot or model if you will. It could be a coincidence that your program got corrupt.
5. You could also switch out in the heli's receiver the wires from the aileron and pitch and see if that helps. The controls of course would be reversed for the moment but............they would still go up and down the same and again see it the opposite blade then changes its pitch.
6. I honestly cannot see that you have made any errors in the head as you seem to be right on top of the manual and it's instructions for all link rod lengths. I assume you have taken your calipers and checked all rods to ensure their lengths are the same that rise in the same position on the other side of the head? I hear your frustration in that at mid stick you are at zero and yet when the swash moves it goes out of whack.
Just yesterday, I flew my big plane and I flew it last week and landing it and she was fine. Now right off the self I went out and flew and nearly every time I pull the elevator back the she did not lift a bit but rather she went straight up! Time after time and would fly level and the pull back a tiny tiny bit and she went nose up to the clouds. So the servo is pulling back to far on its own? the radio program is corrupt and sending the wrong signal?, the servos is loose in the frame? but something went wrong on the self. So I see your frustration.
I hope that something here might help. Please do keep posting us with updates.
JPEE
edit: By the way, on my last two crashes I bent the ball arm on the blade grip too. One was not bad and barely noticable, the other was real bad and broke off when I tried to bend it back. A bent piece of CNC would clearly show up just with the problem you are having because that one part would be off "center" so when you pulled the stick one way or the other one side would come up SHORT!
I want to offer some out of the box thoughts on your problem. Some are thoughts and some are ideas or suggestions, and some questions.
1. Recently in working on my 450 Pro I had the swash plate level at mid stick. Then as it rose to the top the elevator lifted a few degrees more the side pitch and aileron did. Have you looked and seen that the swash remains level from start to finish?
2. Have to you checked your radio in the monitor section of the menu to see if that shows all three are moving at the same rate when you push the throttle up and down?
3. If I recall this all came to pass only after a crash, have you considered reversing the pitch and aileron servos in the frame to see if the issue transfers to the other blade?
4. Have to considered setting up another slot in your radio for this helicopter "without" a radio copy from one slot to the next but a new set up by your inputs to the new slot or model if you will. It could be a coincidence that your program got corrupt.
5. You could also switch out in the heli's receiver the wires from the aileron and pitch and see if that helps. The controls of course would be reversed for the moment but............they would still go up and down the same and again see it the opposite blade then changes its pitch.
6. I honestly cannot see that you have made any errors in the head as you seem to be right on top of the manual and it's instructions for all link rod lengths. I assume you have taken your calipers and checked all rods to ensure their lengths are the same that rise in the same position on the other side of the head? I hear your frustration in that at mid stick you are at zero and yet when the swash moves it goes out of whack.
Just yesterday, I flew my big plane and I flew it last week and landing it and she was fine. Now right off the self I went out and flew and nearly every time I pull the elevator back the she did not lift a bit but rather she went straight up! Time after time and would fly level and the pull back a tiny tiny bit and she went nose up to the clouds. So the servo is pulling back to far on its own? the radio program is corrupt and sending the wrong signal?, the servos is loose in the frame? but something went wrong on the self. So I see your frustration.
I hope that something here might help. Please do keep posting us with updates.
JPEE
edit: By the way, on my last two crashes I bent the ball arm on the blade grip too. One was not bad and barely noticable, the other was real bad and broke off when I tried to bend it back. A bent piece of CNC would clearly show up just with the problem you are having because that one part would be off "center" so when you pulled the stick one way or the other one side would come up SHORT!
07-26-2010, 10:33 AM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
1) Yes, the swash remains level throughout LOW MID and HIGH stick. I have a 250 swash leveler and it is level throughout entire throw
2) I have not checked the TX monitor screen. I will though.
3) I have not switched switched the servos. yet.
4) Setting up a new slot and completely starting over was a next step to consider for me.
5) Good idea
6) Yea I have removed all linkages, and completely rebuild them. I laid them on top of the image in the manual (as they are to scale) as well as used my calipers over and over to ensure proper length.
2) I have not checked the TX monitor screen. I will though.
3) I have not switched switched the servos. yet.
4) Setting up a new slot and completely starting over was a next step to consider for me.
5) Good idea
6) Yea I have removed all linkages, and completely rebuild them. I laid them on top of the image in the manual (as they are to scale) as well as used my calipers over and over to ensure proper length.
07-26-2010, 09:42 PM
RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
Hey Nick, where the heck is everyone? I sent Glenn a not to check on him and to se if he got his power back after his last post and havent heard a thing, have you? How is your weather, crazy too?
John
John
07-26-2010, 10:51 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
JPEE,
I haven't heard from Glenn either. I have been busy at work.
My weather is alright. It is still pretty warm in the mid 90's.
I reset up my Velocity this afternoon. The swash didn't look level to me after I dropped my transmitter. So I did some more mechanical setup and leveled the swash again. It still looks off, but I know it is supposed to be level. My eyes might be playing tricks on me. I noticed something with the V-bar on this last setup. When I put subtrim in on the transmitter it effects all the servos and not just the one I want. I thought that was interesting.
Jreue,
I don't notice anything in the pic.
Nick
I haven't heard from Glenn either. I have been busy at work.
My weather is alright. It is still pretty warm in the mid 90's.
I reset up my Velocity this afternoon. The swash didn't look level to me after I dropped my transmitter. So I did some more mechanical setup and leveled the swash again. It still looks off, but I know it is supposed to be level. My eyes might be playing tricks on me. I noticed something with the V-bar on this last setup. When I put subtrim in on the transmitter it effects all the servos and not just the one I want. I thought that was interesting.
Jreue,
I don't notice anything in the pic.
Nick
07-26-2010, 11:16 PM
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RE: are these blades any good for cp pro?
One of my mixer arms is twisted/bent. You can see it in the pic above and right here.
Finally. Man I am so happy I finally figured out what the heck was going on with this thing.... I ordered my new set of mixer arms from ReadyHeli, so it's just a matter of days before I'm back up. It's been a looong time.
Finally. Man I am so happy I finally figured out what the heck was going on with this thing.... I ordered my new set of mixer arms from ReadyHeli, so it's just a matter of days before I'm back up. It's been a looong time.