joeyhatch11

For those of you that are running a HDX head with the 5mm shaft your going to love this. I couldn't find the main shafts to save my life. Every where I looked they were out of stock. Then I thought, Ebay, sure enough a guy from Cali was selling some. On any web site your going to spend $3 for one of maybe $5 for two. I though, because the price on Ebay was only $3, I was going to get (1) shaft. So I ordered 3, they come today and the package was super heavy for what it's supposed to be. After opening I find that I got (3) 3packs, 9 MAIN SHAFTS HAHAHAHA. $1 a piece, I think they screwed up on there end. But I win!!!

Here's a link for those who may be interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SX450-S04-HDX450...3286.m20.l1116

Even the site says: 1 x 5mm Main Shaft
1 x Main Shaft Colar with 2 screws

choppersrule

Jeremy,

Looks like a cool flyer, hope it works out for ya..

Vic,

LMAO.....get some professional help.... LMAO!! You crack me up sometimes. HEY, it's a fun hobby and ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Here's a cool video of the Sukhoi:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-a5ax...layer_embedded


BNF version only 99 bucks: http://www.redrockethobbies.com/Park..._p/pkz3580.htm

Later, getting tired... LMAO!

crashcrash

Bad part is....I'd have to share the couch with him.....I was out flying when we had a break in rain and wind (no thunder though....I ain't that crazy).

theradioflyer

Vic,
Glad to hear you got some time on your F-16. Nothing beats the speed out of that sucker. I haven't had air under mine in 3 weeks[:@] I did get a flight on my foamy at dusk tonight. I've been busy adding just over 2 feet x 6 feet to my hobby room. This was added to get an old freezer out that had been trapped by a new furnace. Best way out was through the wall and remodel to add more room

I hope everyone has a great weekend!

Jay

erkrystof

Thank you! I've got a certain little HoneyBee King 3 on order, so I'm sure I'll be popping those LEDs on there at some point. Muahahahaha!

My father and I have been looking forward to seeing how the Sukhoi feels, lookyj, so I'm curious to see how it performs for you, good luck!

Well, off to put another coat on a new canopy paint job, maybe take the LED CPP2 out for a spin, the wind is ... oddly... nonexistent, must strike while the iron is hot!

crashcrash

Interesting project....don't ya just love drywalling? My son says SUNDAY it's supposed to get nice, we got a fishing date if it does. I'd like to catch one of those "dog fish" I've been seeing...then KILL IT. Primary target will be 16-22" BASS, secondary will be any LARGE pan fish. If we get the right wind in the next 3 days, I'll be out to do some high speed runs with the EXI-450, and if it tracks well....another loop and if that works out....a bunch more (LMAO).

Jer....I watched the video Dave posted. I've looked at those before....I think it's pretty neat. You are gonna have a BALL with it. What's REALLY cool is it looks a LOT like a Zero. I'm thinking a meatball on the sides and wing with a camo paint job

Jay...try to get some flying in, I know the weather has been crap.

JPEE

Hey Jay,

I'll expect to see some first coat mud and tape on there by the tomorrows a.m. inspection LOL.

Glad to see you got some room to spread out a bit.

JPEE

joeyhatch11

Is there a 500 size heli that will run off 11.1v 2200/2800mah's?

I also saw these on Ebay. 14.8v 2800mah 30C Lipos
http://cgi.ebay.com/30c-14-8v-2800mA...3A1%7C294%3A50

Was thinking of going a little bigger in heli soon and wanted to know what I REALLY need. If anyone has any good links for a 500 size heli please let me know. Is there a noticable difference between the 450/500?

Oracus

No but you can use 2 - 11.1v 3s packs in series so you can use the packs from your 450.
edited for "brain fart"

Wnuk

Nice addition, Jay. Don't ya just love it when you have to remove a wall to move a refridgerator?? More shop room= more helis and planes though!

Looky- That Sukoi looks awesome, be sure to give us a flight report.

JPEE- How ar ethe B400's holding up?

Rick- Any more flights with the Bird of Time?

Vic- You sent the bad weather my way now. Winds for the next 2 days and rain showers for the following four.

Still haven' really maidened the Flasher. I have been doing nothing bt hovers and punch outs in the backyard, getting her all dialed in. I repaired the tail grip issue I had. I'm still trying to track a slighly tail bob, not sure what's causing it yet. Since I'm still waiting on the replacement ESC, I took the trusty 35X and dropped it in, now I have full throttle range and the power in the Scorpion is awesome! I just don't want to fy it for long with the 35X.

Jim

JPEE

Kyle,

Please forgive me I don't mean to correct what you wrote above for Joey but there is a type-o. On my T-Rex 500 I fly (2) 11.1 vts 2150 mah packs but they must be in "series" and not parallel. That puts my power rating at 25vts at a full charge but off the pack label 22.2 volts.

A quick story on this. I flew this way before Jeff. So one night Jeff asked me how my "Y" worked. I took pictures and posted them for him. HOWEVER......I had just bought a back-up in series Y to keep in my fly box and did not even notice it was a parallel Y. Well poor Jeff drove himself nuts trying to get the heli to fire on 11.1 with the parallel Y that should have been a series Y. It was not until HE discovered that my back up cord had been wired wrong from Horizon...(there was small notice some had got out from the factory this way) that he got it right. Once he changed it himself to be in series he was a flying mad-man again. It was later he chose to go to one battery a 3300 mah as I recall with a high C rating. When Rotarydoc and I on "are these blades" built at the same time we were looking to use what batteries we have on hand. As he and I both started with Blade 400's so we had a cash of 3S 2150's and 2200 packs. It was and is our belief that when we crash that at least one pack will service a TACO crash (nose in to the earth as Finless calls it). I have not started my 3D with the 500 yet as I keep that for my 400's.
Respectfully JPEE

Jim,
I was at the park this morning working a bit on my 3D at 5:30 while it is cool. It has been over 100 every day here in Sunny Cal. Ihave also started putting 400-2 back together with a new frame and a ground up rebuild you might say. Sundays are my fly days with friends so I need to keep 400-1 together today for tomorrow morning LOL. Tomorrow I'll get edgy and take some chances.

Smiles JPEE

crashcrash

Jim...Tail bob....Feathering shaft might be too tight on the grips, maybe a slight bend in the shaft. Also make sure the blades aren't too tight in the grips....that's the only things that will cause tail bob. I haven't seen tail bob since I started making my own feathering shafts. The diameter if it's a "3mm ID bearing" is a nominal 2.95mm if you buy them. I make mine 2.93 which gives good relief but still maintains good bearing contact. The bearing should slide onto the feathering shaft with NO resistance, and a tiny bit of slop meaning you can rock the bearing back and forth on the shaft just ever so slightly.

erkrystof

Wow! How's that work?

Pop quiz: What's it gonna be?

crashcrash

LOUD.....that's what it's gonna be (LMAO).

Feathering shaft:
3mm rod stock in 36" pieces about $3ea after shipping)
3mm die with handle
small bottle of light oil
vise to hold while threading
drill press to turn rod to 2.93mm
medium cut and fine cut files
spare 3mm bearing to check size
bench grinder for lightly tapering rod after cutting
calipers

1. cut rod to proper length using an old shaft (this is an EXTERNAL thread shaft)
2. taper the cut rod with grinder...slightly
3. turn the shaft down in the drill press to 2.93mm using the files which requires doing one side...flipping it in the chuck and doing the other side.
4. check for fit using the bearing and calipers OFTEN
5. when the bearing fits the shaft with NO resistance, it's time to thread.
6. put shaft in vise using protection as not to deform or scar the shaft, but it has to be tight to prevent turning when threadding.
7. apply one drop of oil to the shaft and carefully begin threadding ensuring the die is not canted in any direction.
8. thread the shaft so it has 3.71mm of threads on each end.
9. when done threadding, use the fine file/drill press to deburr the shaft that threadding causes....use the bearing again to ensure it will go freely on and off the shaft.

In cases where the original shaft has internal threads and a 4mm diameter, I modify the head by using brass bushings and O-Rings so the head will take a straight 3mm shaft using 3mm nylon lock nuts instead of cap screws.

WHY....because it's CHEAPER, and I don't have to wait for a feathering shaft. I can produce 1 shaft in under 7 minuets. If you don't have a drill press or bench grinder, those are the expensive part of tooling up to do this....I already had them...just needed to buy a die and a handle. My shafts also resist bending BETTER than the ones you buy because I buy QUALITY steel 3mm round stock. They're not perfectly polished in finish, but it don't affect the bearings because the bearing steel is harder than the shaft steel. In other words, tooling marks on the shaft are a given but acceptable being as their life expectancy is somewhat short. If I bend a feathering shaft...I pitch it and make a new one on the spot. Hope this helps.

Oracus

Jpee

Its all good and thanks as I do not like to give out bad info! Earlier this week I was making parallel packs so I think it was just stuck in my head I knew its should of been series. I know Jeff has a 500 but coudnt remember who else had one sry.

lookyj

the SUKHOI is definately for advanced fliers......

my first flight lasted all of 3 seconds, she went up then down, nose first into the cement and busted the prop. Luckily, it comes with 2 props in the box as being a brand new item (I pre-ordered it from my LHS and they called as soon as they got some in) they don't have any replacement parts for it yet. My first mistake was thinking the plane would come closed to trimmed for flight. WRONG! After replacing the prop, and quickly jumping online to find some parts, I headed back outside to try and get her trimmed out. After several hops and and lots of trim adjustments I was able to get her pretty close. Flying outside was getting too difficult as the wind started to pick up, and I didn't want to break my new toy again so I put her away.

erkrystof

Thanks for the quick review, lookyj, sorry about the crash but good you got it back up and running, shame about how they say 'ready to fly' when it really means 'ready to inspect and tweak then fly' (rtiattf - you can use that term, I don't charge royalties).

Vic... that's one hell of a process. I wonder if you think of it as my blades - once you get a groove down you can crank em out, and it's cheaper than buying, but it's definitely not a 'Oh my god MacGyver we only have 32 seconds to save the world - MAKE A FEATHERING SHAFT or LED Blade, quick!'

It definitely seems like you've got your groove on that, but as I have zero tools and almost zero manual dexterity (good hobby to pick for that quality, eh?), I think I'll leave the manufacturing to you and the other big dogs!

crashcrash

As of now, I just make 'em for myself, and a couple other guys here when I have material. I did make them in bulk for USHOBBYSUPPLY for a while. I've applied it to the King2/3, MX-400, EXI-450, and T-Rex 450. I think USHOBBYSUPPLY still has some in stock for K2/3 under manufacturers "Vic's Engineering", since I know you have a K3 inbound.

crashcrash

Jer...your plane has the same characteristic as the Corsair which makes it HARD to fly. To start off...put your dual rates (ele/ail) at 45% till you get used to it. The flight controls are real touchy to the slightest input which I've seen cause it to act like a porpus jumping in and out of the water...wildy going up and down. ANother issue you may have encountered with the stryker is tip stall where it'll roll and nose dive when it slows to a certian speed. My F-16 hasen't ever porpused if I set it up correctly. It did it once, but it was because I had zero on the elevator wrong....I almost crashed it. The Corsair.....I'm STILL fighting that one, in the middle of building #5....hoping this one will be right. BAlance is real critical too...make sure it's right. Hope you can use this info and it helps.

BTW...trim the elevator 1.5 to 2 deg up for a hand launch. Once it leaves your hand it should be a nice shallow climb without roll.

Steve Landron

Awesome thread! Allot of information!

I have a Blade CP PRO I’ve had for a few years and it was flying great but I got daring and did a few consecutive pirouettes, lost orientation and crashed into my roof. I rebuilt the Helo, replacing the main motor, servo (broken tooth), receiver, and speed control. The helo starts out ok in hover mode, but shortly after it starts to yo yo without inputs from me. I'm able to get her down safely, but can’t quite figure it out. The only thing I have not done is to replace all three servos. (I'll replace them when I get back off of deployment). Any idea's would be awesome.

I don't fly it too much because I have an MX-400 (great 400 size helo), a Hirobo shuttle (smooth flyer) and a Raptor V2 30 with an OS .37 (Very cool Helo), but I can't stand the thought of having anything around the house that is not 100% operational.

Thanks for the help

Steve
[8D]

erkrystof

That's great! I didn't know you had worked on engineering parts so extensively, very impressive.

crashcrash

Steve...yo-yo could still be a servo that's electrically bad OR the tail motor is failing and drawing power from the main motor. In any case....somethings pulling power from the main motor.

Eric....not as impressive as it seems. Just me being cheap and comming up with a more cost effective way to keep flying and NOT waiting for parts. I've done a LOT of mods in the past couple years. Most noteable was building a lower frame for the King v2 from aluminum which worked extremely well....I never broke another lower frame after I did that. I guess it would help if you knew I was in the Navy for 20 years and I was an Airframe Mechanic 1st Class when I retired....I learned a thing or two I guess.

Wnuk

Vic- thanks for pointing the areas to look in. I did think the blades were a bit tight in the grips so I took care of that. I also loosened up the tail blades some, thay seemd to be stiffer than when I set them. Haven't been able to test hover tonite, still too breezy. I'm SLOWLY getting this thing dialed in. Maybe early next week for a good maiden. I'm a bit gun shy though after having that tail grip come off. [X(]

Eric- I love your project and have been following along. You have done some great work so far. Well done.

Jeremy- You'll get her dialed in in no time I'm sure. Why are parts so hard to come by, is it a new model to the market?

JPEE- a video from your adventures tomorrow would be great, haven't seen any from ya in awhile.


Jim

crashcrash

Jim...I don't think it's the blades in the grips causing it...your feathering shaft is binding someplace or as I said, maybe slightly bent....that would be my absolute first issue to look at. Sometimes, the O rings bind the shaft in the head, and I've dremmeled out the O-Ring for a looser fit to the shaft and noticed a major improvement. Stuff to look at.

erkrystof

Thanks, Jim!

It seems I also developed a little bit of yo-yo'ing with my BCPP2. Although I'm going to take it outside a bit tonight to confirm, as I'm not sure if I'm getting any ground/wall effect from the living room.

I'll probably be checking my feathering shaft tonight as well. I looked up your parts, Vic, thank you very much for the info, and I'll be picking some up for the incoming HK3!

Luckily I purchased a co-worker's old Blade CP 2s (He had two) for parts and testing. (Heh, I should have taken a large hint from that, but the price was very reasonable, all for a gyro's cost, which came with it, so all the parts and what not were essentially free)