europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

I have found the instructions a little weak on some points. Rule of thumb. TEST FIT EVERYTHING BEFORE EPOXY...

camdyson

Ditto - I cut the pegs down a bit too. No drama.

Cutting 53 holes in each inner bomb bay door skin was interesting...[&:]...ended up having to make a template up and sandwich both skins between some MDF and drilled the lot. That way the holes on each door are exactly equally uneven

Cam

sgoen

My Feedback: (5)

What gyro are you using?

camdyson

The JR G500A - the aeroplane version. I think they're discontinued, as were recently being sold in the States at $149.00 (normally $250)- a bargain. Got mine couple of months back after alot of net surfing, so you may still be able to get one.

Ideal spot is horizontal on the CG, ie where the wing tube is, and will be obstructed via cockpit by the air tank (mid size with modified formers). I plan to mount it on a hatch in the floor of the bomb bay (with the gyro in the fuz, not the bay!), which will also allow easy access to it. Probably doesn't need to be exactly on the CG, but it will be easy this way so may as well.

Cheers,

Cam

TrueScale

My Feedback: (47)

About the pegs. I drilled the holes on out--no problem very tight fit.

Chuck

krproton

Hi Bill.

You've probably already got this figured out, but I'll answer anyway.

The instructions say "Be certain the peg indicated protrudes above the base approximately 3/4" [19mm]." In the nacelle photographed, that would be the peg on the left--or the one farthest away. As you can see, that side of the nacelle protrudes above the base of the nacelle to account for the taper of the wing panel, which is why the peg needs to stick out of the base a little more than the other.

If it's not too late, I would recommend deepening the holes in the wing for the pegs rather than cutting off the pegs (I believe a 5/16" drill is the correct size, but double-check to be certain). But if you've already trimmed down the pegs, well, that should be fine too.

And yes, the sides of the nacelles should be fully contacting the bottom of the wing.

Sorry for the confusion and I hope this helps.

Tim

krproton

Hi "ifly."

I've been "bothering" the product manager about doing an ARC of the B-25 for a while now. I know it was done with the Top Flite giant P-51D Mustang ARF and seems to me to have been a success, but maybe if one studies the "numbers" it's not worth it--don't know. I think one of the problems is all the extra parts the company has to keep in inventory because now you have two fuselages (one covered, one not covered), two sets of outer wing panels (one covered, one not covered), two sets of inner wing panels (one covered, one not covered), two sets of cowls (one painted, one not painted), etc., etc. I'm just speculating, but I think part of the adversity is all the valuable warehouse space taken up by so many spare parts.

Well, I will keep pestering the product manager (who is the one who makes the decision), but don't hold your breath. I know of no plans to release an ARC of the B-25 (not that I necessarily would know if we were!).

I suggest writing your congressman or senator (I mean, call Tower Hobbies, tell your dealer to complain, call Product Support). Maybe if there appears to be enough demand it could happen.

That's all I got.[]

Tim

iflyf4u1a

My Feedback: (1)

I have contacted ... wait, we had this discussion already. Oh well, it doesn't hurt to ask (it only hurts to hear the answer)[:@]. I'll keep an eye out for it anyway[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]. I still have a few months before I pick my next project. I'm sure I'll find something out there.

Bill Giulian

My Feedback: (38)

Tim. Thanks for your quick response. I have been waiting to hear from you before I proceeded. So, I will deepen the holes. Purchased one of the new 81s and after looking at it I think I will get another one and go with it. Want to test ren if first before I make a final decision. Thanks again for your help. Bill.

rc74

My Feedback: (6)

Brent I had a KMP B25 that went in after it ran out of fuel on a aborted landing. The KMP stock retracts verson 3 were still junk they have plastic bushings that break and pins that fall out. I replaced the mains with robart (733rs) $119. I am now building the TF B-25 and the Robart (733rs) from my KMP fit perfit. I ordered a new nose retract from robart 100 deg. (639rs) $100.and it fits great. Using from my KMP the 1/2 struts(670) on mains and 7/16 strut (663r) on nose. Wheels are 4" mains and 2 3/4 nose. Ron

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

WARNING......I was installing the plastic nose gunner window when it fell off my work bench (3ft) and shattered like an egg. fell 3ft and cracked. When I received this piece it had two very minor cracks already which would have been taken care of when glued to the bottom piece so I thought nothing of it. Now I know. DON"T drop this piece or you'll be sorry. SO.. I need to ask Krprotron whats the story with replacements????????? %$#@!

krproton

Hi Bill.

I got my two .81s sitting out here on my desk right now. You know, it looks like those funny little mufflers might tuck in nicely. I also fitted a muffler with the header pipe that comes with the .70 Surpass. It tucks in even more. But I haven't yet fitted one up to the nacelle, so after all, I don't really know how it will fit yet.

I included a pic of the two engines--the one on the left with the header pipe from the .70 Surpass and the one on the right with the header that comes with the .81.

Also, I trimmed the little "boss" off the top of the right engine mount that holds a nose gear wire. That allowed me to move my engine back about 1/8". Some were complaining (and I partially agree) that the cowl is too far forward and there is too much of a gap between the front of the nacelle and the aft edge of the cowl. Moving the engine back that little bit will help, because this will allow you to shift the cowl back just the same.

Tim

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks to Product Support I will receive a new Nose Gunner Window at NC. When they get in that is. Still, be careful not to drop it.....

norm

Europact,

History repeat itself!!!

Check out the nipple where the nose gun is fitted. Tim Thompson made a small plate 1.5 x 1.5 inch, I made the same and glued it there with j.b.weld. You make a shield of 1.5. x. 1.5 and emboss the center to fit the nose gun. You then can make small punch dents all around to imitate rivets. This will strenghten the noze greenhouse canopy section thhat holds the gun. Only the vibration will crack it. You cannot drop it on the floor, samething happened to me back in october.

Check all your servo hatch as the blocks come off. You should drop ca glue around the blocks after fitting the holes with the screws and before installing the servos. You may whant to use 2 sided foam tape in addition for extra security in case the blocks break off.

Normand

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Little help... Packaged with the plastic interior pieces is a panel. Small, thin about 2" square with a cut out at one corner. Seems to be embossed as a gage panel. Green in color. Has a lip at the top. ?????????? Any ideas where it goes ????????

fytrjok

My Feedback: (2)

That panel mounts in the nose, forward on the left side and is the main control panel for bomb release operations. You can see it's placement if you look at pics of interior nose detail.

krproton

Here's a photo of a scale interior from a static display B-25. This shows the panel well...

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

OK, that's where it will go...... Thanks..

kochj

Haven't gave it much thoguht at all, except for stricly WS, and WA figures and comparing these numbers to other aircrafts that are duel engines and have gassers installed on them.

I don't have any measurments of the cowls or the mounting plates.....
I guessing these cowls must be much smaller than the H9 Helcats.
Hellcat and zenoah 20..

You are right though,,,,, This planes cowls are just way too small for anything other than some glow or electric engines.....

Justin

mtaboram

Hi everybody. My name is Marlon Tabora from Tegucigalpa Honduras, Central America. Today I receive my B-25. It´s amazing. Could some of you summarize the key issues that I have to consider before to start the assembly of the kit? , i.e. additional hardware that is better to complete the airplane, engines, battery, etc. I really appreciate it. Best Regards

fytrjok

My Feedback: (2)

Marlon,
Welcome! Congratulations on your new B25! While I'm tempted to summarize all the good stuff found within this thread I believe that would be a disservice to you. Yeah, it'll take awhile to go through every page but there's so much in here that you don't want to miss!. Aside from the obvious stuff like getting the latest updates to the instructions(found on the Top Flite Website), pretty much all you need for a basic successful build is to be found in the box! The R&D team did a great job overall in their suggestions on what engines, batts, servo's etc. Certainly you can use whatever you'd like but I's strongly suggest following the manufacturer's recommendations to begin with. As you go through this thread you'll find some things you'll keep and some you'll disregard. Pay attention to what you see from Krproton...he's da MAN! Happy Landings, and remember, the only stupid question is the one you are afraid to ask!

Doug

krproton

Hello Marlon.

I hope you enjoy your B-25!

As Doug (fytrjok) mentioned, you could go through and read every post--it seems as though most of the entries discuss the addition of scale details as many guys are adding working bomb bay doors and other scale features. Many posts also discuss electric power. So, if neither "scaling-out" nor converting your B-25 to electric interest you, I bet you could get through the entire thread pretty quickly. To begin though, I recommend reading at least the first two posts at the very beginning of this thread--there are several suggestions there.

(And thanks Doug for your kind words).

Tim

P.S. Okay, I thought of one other thing:

(See photo below.) Add drops of thin CA around the edges of all the landing gear door levers (main gear door lever photograhed). Allow the CA to soak into the end grain of the wood, wipe away excess and allow to harden, then sand smooth. I've heard a few cases of broken levers and this will strengthen them. There is also a guy who has posted in this thread who makes aluminum levers. I don't think this is necessary, and I'd be a little worried that, eventually, the aluminum levers may wear a notch in the landing gear struts, but it is an interesting idea and the guys who have purchased these aluminum levers seem to like them very much!

mtaboram

Dear Doug:

Thanks a lot for your comments and recommendations. I willread all your post carefully. Surely I will contact you when I found some special question. Thanks again for all your suggestions.

Regards

mtaboram

Hi Tim:

Thanks for your suggestions. I really appreciate it. As Doug mention you are the guy with this B-25. I will check all your post carefully. One specail question for you. I bought the Mc Daniel 466 individual Glow drivers for the engines. I will use OS Surpass 70. Do you have some pictures where I need install the module (orange) of this device?. If I decide use three blades propellers, which size do you recommend: 12x8 or 12x6?. I want use duralite Li-On redundant 2900 battery. what do you think about this selection. I don´t which radio do you use, but i want know if you could comment some special settings for this airplane. I will use JR 9303 2.4 Ghz.

Thanks a lot and I´m sorry for all my questions.

Cheers

Marlon

norm

Hello Marlon,

About the glow drivers, you should install one in each nacelles using a Y to the servo and have less wiring...You have plenty of space in there on the side of the wooden nacelle frame. As Tim is saying you should review the postings from the begining as many questions will be answered in there for you, at least in the first few pages. The aluminium levers are posted by "Mikerc" and I strongly suggest you buy them since it not only is a good improvement but will add some strenght to it because they are fragile to the point that handling the plane on the ground does not allow you to "touch hit" the gear doors without breaking the lever. Also be attentive to the rudder mounting to the stabilizator as this area is another weakness, I posted some suggestions about how to make this area stronger. Be alert to the servo hatch as the small blocks tend to crack off the hatch, may be hazardous if the block holds your aileron servo. If you are going with glow engines think of a gyro, may be a cheap insurance, some postings are detailing about that by myself. My recommendation, having flown the model, for the CG is gears up if you intend to instal retracts and you will most likely change your wheels. Overall this ARF is by far the best detailed and well tooled. You can build it all with the included hardware and everything else is up to you. One thing: Top flite should add 100 to the 50 hours as it took me and many other builders approximately 150 hours for the basic build with little changes. I in fact you get 100 extra enjoyable building hours see it this way!

Normand