patatchim

I there redvtr1000. I think that most of the speed controllers, that have a BEC, when on thermal or low voltage shutdown keep feeding the receiver.
If you couldn´t control the heli at all , it could be that your reciever stopped working or something wrong with the speed controller (bad servo cable???).


In reply to previous posts about this thread, it´s realy a shame that there isn´t a dedicated forum to mini titan. I stumbled upon this and subscribed it.

osterizer

Thanks for the info. I was a little frustrated . It is working nicely now that I did what I should have in the first place with the BEC. It also looks to be warming a bit this weekend, so I'll finally get to fly it with a good setup. I'm very much looking forward to it.

redvtr1000

Patatchim,

You aren't the first to feel that way. I think we would all like to see a bit more organization in the info here for the mini titan. I suggest a Thunder Tiger electric section meant for the e-raptors and mini titan. The mini titan thread really is no good because you can't find half of what you want in it and the search feature doesn't help much because there are too many topics with the word "titan" to sift through.

I passed along this info and even threw up a post talking about getting a tt electric specific forum a while back. I know that info was passed up the chain and I really hope to see that forum here before long. Having that forum would give us TT owners a place to get together and discuss options/problems etc without having to post in the general section.

All I want for christmas is....A tt electric thread

osterizer

Maybe more people would realize the thread was here (bump!) if it had a heading .

I did get mine out to a small field a couple of weeks ago, and it's as good as I'd hoped. It weighs almost as much as my other 450s, but it just flies lighter; it's responsive as heck, and tracks like it's on rails. Awfully nice to fly.

redvtr1000

I normally keep up with this thread but it just falls off and because there is no organization its not near as useful as it could be.

I haven't flown mine in a week and a half, I'm in the middle of a move and have not even looked at it this week. I bought one of those air hogs aero ace planes from wally world. I must say it is by far the best 30 bucks you could spend for some no worries rc fun.

You get good control out of the little plane, i have been out doing some stall turns and flybys with it and just having a grand ole time. Smashed it into cars, the road, trees (mostly from flying it in the wind) and you just pick it up and toss it again.

I have been looking for another, seem to be all sold out around here.

cactus hopper

Hey I just joined this club....what are there now....three or four of us that has one of these heli's. I bought mine in a kit, have it together and the radio in it but waiting on the motor ESC and gyro. Should have it in the air in about ten days. Two questions and one comment.

Why didn't they make the servo attachments wide enough to accomodate HS65 servos without having to modify them?
Why didn't they make the canopy attachment different or move it back farther so that it cleared the servo arm?

What a bogus, twenty five cent way to attach the rotors. Is there a fix or a work around for this?

osterizer

Ha, that's just a testament to our discerning tastes . Actually there are quite a few of them out there-- RCU is starting to get a fair bit of dicussion around them, even the obligatory "which is better, TRex or MT" threads.

Couldn't tell about the servos-- I like the Futaba gear, but the HS65s are as ubiquitous in 450 helis as the HS55s are in park fliers. It does seem strange. S3107s fit perfectly, I had some in the parts box, and they're working well. They don't have the torque of the 65s but they're slightly faster.... Same with the canopy attachment, fine with the Fubs.

By rotors, do you mean the self-tapping screws for the tail rotors? Hokey, huh . I would have swapped them for 2mm cap screws, probably 2mX10 with nuts, but HeliDirect had the aluminum tail on deal of the day for about $55 and I couldn't stop myself in time. Even with that piece, I swapped the standard nuts it came with for nylocks. Paranoid I guess.

osterizer

I'm going to have to try one of the new Air Hogs, redvtr1000. I had one of the old pump-up pneumatic motored ones and it was a blast as long as it lasted. My smallest plank is a 42" Cub, and I haven't flown a fixed-wing since I got into helis-- so used to being able to fly from any convenient open space now.

cactus hopper

Osterizer, that too but I was referring to having to cut the plastic covering off of the blades and then epoxy the plastic shims to it. This is my first build, I dunno, maybe they're all like that.

osterizer

Oh, misunderstood. Building the rotor blades used to be part of building the kit, and assembling the grip plates is still pretty common practice for woodies on larger helis. It's actually a lot better than the ones that just have plastic covers screwed on and nothing else-- the epoxied-on plates keep the wood from splintering at high head speeds and exploding out of the grip, and I know of people who take apart the ones that are not put together that way so they can epoxy them together anyway to be safe.

That said, I didn't put mine together. This is my fourth 450-size heli and I have my own prefs in blades, so the OEM ones are still in the bag. I'll try them out sometime, but I haven't yet.

osterizer

Oh, misunderstood. Building the rotor blades used to be part of building the kit, and assembling the grip plates is still pretty common practice for woodies on larger helis. It's actually a lot better than the ones that just have plastic covers screwed on and nothing else-- the epoxied-on plates keep the wood from splintering at high head speeds and exploding out of the grip, and I know of people who take apart the ones that are not put together that way so they can epoxy them together anyway to be safe.

That said, I didn't put mine together. This is my fourth 450-size heli and I have my own prefs in blades, so the OEM ones are still in the bag. I'll try them out sometime, but I haven't yet.

redvtr1000

Cactushopper,

Here are the answers for your questions as I see them.

1. "Why didn't they make the servo attachments wide enough to accomodate HS65 servos without having to modify them?"

- The mini titan was designed with ACE hobbys (the distributor for thunder tiger) c1016 servo on the cyclic. They fit without modification, as do others, but the hs-65s seem to be a popular and well working choice. A minute or two with the dremel and you are all set.

2. "Why didn't they make the canopy attachment different or move it back farther so that it cleared the servo arm?"

- Not 100 percent sure what you mean. I had no fitment problems with hs-65s in relation to the canopy aside from having to open up the bottom of the cano where it slides onto the landing gear. Check the manual and make sure you have the servo arms oriented correctly. The arms on the aileron servos should point towards the center of the heli (and each other) not towards the outside. With hs-65s, some folks have shimmed them forward in the mounts a little bit because the Ace servos (that the heli was designed for) have the mounting tabs half way down the body of the servo as opposed to them being at the top, like futabas or hitecs. I haven't seen the ace servo but it was explained to me this way and makes perfect sense so I have no reason to doubt it.

- as for the roots go on the mains, like osterizer said. Thats the way they are, the stock tt woodies are not bad. They do sap some extra juice over the align woodies. What I reccomend is the align woods (they have cf and fibreglass too, I just bought a set of each and will let you know what I think), they fly well and give less drag. The roots are already done for you. In order to run those thinner blades, you need to get a set of the thunder tiger blade spacers. I don't have the part number offhand, you can find them at amainhobbies for sure, search for blade spacer in the parts section of mini titan.

Osterizer, The air hogs really is great. I can't stress that enough. I have been flying it in the dark, the sun, rain etc and have had a smile on my face the whole time. Its amazing the control you get out of the little thing when all you have is throttle really. You get two sticks, left is throttle and the right is like a rudder/aileron but instead of having moving flight controls it varies throttle to one of the two motors mounted on the wings for turns. This thing banks great and is good for spiraling turns, weak hammerheads, low passes etc.

Just make sure to find the aero ace that says it includes lithium battery etc, There are a couple out there that haven't done so well from what I see on the forums. This is a GREAT way to have fun between charges etc and you don't need much for space to fly it. No stress involved which makes it even better.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Speaking of canopy mounting....

I came across these in a box of stuff someone sent me and I LOVE them.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/13848
Its aluminum canopy mounts. The plastic ones were seriously getting on my nerves. The grommets slip right over these and stay put, they dont bend or break and all for 6 bucks.

cactus hopper

Thanks red, I've got so many problems with servo installation I'm about to back up and go to either Ace or Futaba servos. I chose Hitec because they're about all you ever read about in these forums. I don't know if it was on this thread but I mentioned somewhere that I'm a novice to all this. I've built and flown r/c planes but that was a few years ago. This is my first build and actually my first real heli, I have a HBFP but it really doesn't give you much of a clue as to how these things go together. I have a HBK2 on order, hopefully it will be here today. I could really use some help in this department. Here are my biggest problems. The manual says to put the ball for the cyclic servos on the underside of the servo horn, when I do that the ball linkage hits on the screw heads that hold the upper bearing housing in. I can see where shimming the servo out would solve this problem, what is the best material to use for shim stock? Actually when I put the ball on the top of the servo arm instead of the bottom the alignment looks better. While I'm on this subject I'm not real clear on how I'm supposed to attach the ball to the servo arm. There is no clue as to how in the titan manual and neither the Futaba radio or the Hitec servos came with any hardware to do this. I'm assuming that I'm supposed to use the extra balls that came with the titan kit, if I do this the only way to attach them to the servo horn is to use the screws that came with them. Somehow this just doesn't seem like a good idea. Is there a different kind of ball that I could buy and use, one that maybe attaches with a nut instead of a screw. Thanks for the tip about the Align blades, I'm sure I'll be needing some extra ones and I'll try those with the shims, will any other brands also require shims?

Thanks in advance for any info in this.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Have you read teh review in the magazine section?

In general the screw threads into the servo arm and if its a good tight fit its self tapping and holds fine. Thats how mine are done.

Also cut off servo arms make perfect shims and seem to be just the right thickness.

Which servos are you running?

cactus hopper

Ok, I guess I'll just go with the screws then. I won't be flying any 3D or banging the sticks around hard so that will probably be ok. I'm using Hitec HS65's. I didn't do a lot of research, if Druss mentions it then I just buy it.

Oh; about the review, that's a no. I'm afraid I'm not very good at finding my way around the forum yet. The only way I can find this thread is search for e325.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=932

cactus hopper

Wow, can I ever use that, just in time too. Thanks a million Barracuda.

redvtr1000

Cactus,

Definitely check out barracudas review. I used it during my build and found it exceptionally useful. Stick with the hitecs, they work fine and the screws from the kit are what everyone has been using without problems (to my knowledge anyhow).

I don't think BH shims them in his review, and truthfully, they look like they are ok without it but some folks have been doing it to get the linkages from the servos to the swash more direct, by moving the servos a bit closer. Here is what I did and it works great. On all three of my cyclic servos, I cut off all of the extra tabs from the servo horns except the ones that I used. The only servo I shimmed was the rear to keep it from contacting the bearing block area. Take two of the horns that you cut off and trim them down so they will go in behind the servo. You may need to find some slightly longer screws for this, can't remember if I had some or used the ones from the kit. Basically, you trim down the scrap piece of horn then use it as a spacer between the servo body and the servo mount, this shims the servo forward (toward the main shaft) and gives you all the clearance you need in that area.

I think Barracudas review is an excellent source but feel free to ask me for pictures/explanations on anything you aren't sure about after going through it.

osterizer

Well, bummer. Got the TT woodies out to look at them, and they don't look bad, but they're warped. Oh, well- guess I won't be trying them.

jwk72

Anyone have (or flown) the new ARF yet? Just picked one up, couldn't help myself...seemed like too good of a deal. This this is basically RTF after the installation of the main rotors, tail boom and radio/reciever. The stock gyro or whatever it is they are calling it makes me wonder, might have to switch it out at some point but for now I'm told will be ok until I get into heavy 3D. Doesn't seem like a bad deal for $300.

cactus hopper

ok here's a question I can't find the answer to in any of the reviews. Why cut out the white part of the canopy if you're just going to cover it up with a black part? It can't weigh that much and if you need to get inside it seems like it would be easier to just slip the canopy off instead of taking three screws out.

osterizer

LOL, you know, I never figured that out either. On others, with transparent or semitransparent canopies, it would seem to make sense, but when it's opaque, what's the point?

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Weight, every little bit helps. You dont take screws out to get to the innards, you pop off the canopy.

Since I decided to keep the mini T I've also shortened all the wires to exactly whats needed on the motor, esc and servos, by the time you get done cutting canopy and shortening the wires you would be surpised how much weight you save.

osterizer

That was about the only thing that seemed to make sense, but I (admittedly without weighing it) didn't think the blank taken out of the white plastic could save that much. The wires, otoh, I could definitely see some benefit. Hmmmmm......