Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 Brotherhood.
#1326
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Is this plane difficult to build?
NO. It pretty much falls together except for any mods you might make.
Why are you guys using the DLE 20 for this? Is it price, performance, or both?
My guess is long-term price. Gas is MUCH cheaper than glow fuel.
I was planning on using a 4 stroke OS 120 glow engine.
Mine's getting a YS 120 SC, just like my first two![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I love the way 4 stroke OS engines sound.
Yup, and it's even better when its spitting smoke!
NO. It pretty much falls together except for any mods you might make.
Why are you guys using the DLE 20 for this? Is it price, performance, or both?
My guess is long-term price. Gas is MUCH cheaper than glow fuel.
I was planning on using a 4 stroke OS 120 glow engine.
Mine's getting a YS 120 SC, just like my first two
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I love the way 4 stroke OS engines sound.
Yup, and it's even better when its spitting smoke!
![Big Grin](images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Last edited by punkindrublik; 08-15-2013 at 02:13 PM.
#1327
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I would like to hear anyone's experience who is running the DLE 20 also, I'm sure it would be perfect on the Bipe...There is a guy in my club who has a DLE 20 on a 1.20 size U-Can-Do and it's perfect...I love my Bipe with the YS 1.20 but have another one framed up and am trying to decide on the power plant ..I have another YS 1.20 on the shelves but thought about making it a gasser instead... ![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think the Bipe is a nice building airplane and not difficult at all...
The reason I'm considering the DLE 20 would be the on going cost of fuel... With my current bipe I use Cool Power 30% Heli fuel which runs about $30 a gallon -vs- about $6 a gallon of fuel and oil for the DLE..
No doubt the Goldberg Ultimate Bipe is sweet with a 1.20 four stroke and they sure sound cool!! The OS 1.20 would be awesome!! I love mine with the YS 1.20
Mudduc:
Great score and enjoy your new Bipe!!
![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think the Bipe is a nice building airplane and not difficult at all...
The reason I'm considering the DLE 20 would be the on going cost of fuel... With my current bipe I use Cool Power 30% Heli fuel which runs about $30 a gallon -vs- about $6 a gallon of fuel and oil for the DLE..
No doubt the Goldberg Ultimate Bipe is sweet with a 1.20 four stroke and they sure sound cool!! The OS 1.20 would be awesome!! I love mine with the YS 1.20
Mudduc:
Great score and enjoy your new Bipe!!
#1328
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Any opinions on the OS FS155? thinking i might get it for my Ultimate.
Displacement: 1.548 cu in (25.63 cc)
Bore: 1.323 in (33.6 mm)
Stroke: 1.126 in (28.6 mm)
RPM Range: 2,000-10,000
Output: 2.56 hp @ 10,000 rpm
Engine Weight: 28.40 oz (805 g)
Muffler Weight: 3.35 oz (95.0 g)
Includes: Type F glow plug & F-6020 muffler
Recommended Props: 16x8-12, 17x8-12
VS
OS FS120
Displacement: 1.2 cu in (19.7 cc)
Bore: 1.197 in (30.4 mm)
Stroke: 1.083 in (27.5 mm)
Practical rpm: 2,000-12,000
Output: 2.07 hp @ 12,000 rpm
Weight w/o muffler: 32.5 oz (921 g)
more power less weight, same size dimensional.
Weight w/muffler: 35.3 oz (1000 g)
Recommended Props: 14x9, 14x10, 14x11, 15x8, 15x9, 15x10, 16x6
more power less weight very close dimensional.
Displacement: 1.548 cu in (25.63 cc)
Bore: 1.323 in (33.6 mm)
Stroke: 1.126 in (28.6 mm)
RPM Range: 2,000-10,000
Output: 2.56 hp @ 10,000 rpm
Engine Weight: 28.40 oz (805 g)
Muffler Weight: 3.35 oz (95.0 g)
Includes: Type F glow plug & F-6020 muffler
Recommended Props: 16x8-12, 17x8-12
VS
OS FS120
Displacement: 1.2 cu in (19.7 cc)
Bore: 1.197 in (30.4 mm)
Stroke: 1.083 in (27.5 mm)
Practical rpm: 2,000-12,000
Output: 2.07 hp @ 12,000 rpm
Weight w/o muffler: 32.5 oz (921 g)
more power less weight, same size dimensional.
Weight w/muffler: 35.3 oz (1000 g)
Recommended Props: 14x9, 14x10, 14x11, 15x8, 15x9, 15x10, 16x6
more power less weight very close dimensional.
Last edited by Mudduc; 08-16-2013 at 10:11 PM.
#1329
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I would like to hear anyone's experience who is running the DLE 20 also, I'm sure it would be perfect on the Bipe...There is a guy in my club who has a DLE 20 on a 1.20 size U-Can-Do and it's perfect...I love my Bipe with the YS 1.20 but have another one framed up and am trying to decide on the power plant ..I have another YS 1.20 on the shelves but thought about making it a gasser instead... ![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think the Bipe is a nice building airplane and not difficult at all...
The reason I'm considering the DLE 20 would be the on going cost of fuel... With my current bipe I use Cool Power 30% Heli fuel which runs about $30 a gallon -vs- about $6 a gallon of fuel and oil for the DLE..
No doubt the Goldberg Ultimate Bipe is sweet with a 1.20 four stroke and they sure sound cool!! The OS 1.20 would be awesome!! I love mine with the YS 1.20
Mudduc:
Great score and enjoy your new Bipe!!
![Smile](images/smilies/smile.gif)
I think the Bipe is a nice building airplane and not difficult at all...
The reason I'm considering the DLE 20 would be the on going cost of fuel... With my current bipe I use Cool Power 30% Heli fuel which runs about $30 a gallon -vs- about $6 a gallon of fuel and oil for the DLE..
No doubt the Goldberg Ultimate Bipe is sweet with a 1.20 four stroke and they sure sound cool!! The OS 1.20 would be awesome!! I love mine with the YS 1.20
Mudduc:
Great score and enjoy your new Bipe!!
Anybody wanna buy a 1.20 SC?
![Stick Out Tongue](images/smilies/tongue.gif)
#1332
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good choice, fly mine with DLE 20 on a 6 oz tank and got rid of 9 oz weight total wet flying weight, single 2500 mah LiFe with IBEC, meaning no extra Ignition Battery. There is also a backing plate here on RCU advertised and you can use short stand offs like i did and don't have to use bulky rail mounts that way, works great. Only down side is the stock muffler is a little on the loud side
Michael
Michael
#1334
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good choice, fly mine with DLE 20 on a 6 oz tank and got rid of 9 oz weight total wet flying weight, single 2500 mah LiFe with IBEC, meaning no extra Ignition Battery. There is also a backing plate here on RCU advertised and you can use short stand offs like i did and don't have to use bulky rail mounts that way, works great. Only down side is the stock muffler is a little on the loud side
Michael
Michael
I'll do a check in the market for the mount you were talking about. Thanks!
#1335
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good choice, fly mine with DLE 20 on a 6 oz tank and got rid of 9 oz weight total wet flying weight, single 2500 mah LiFe with IBEC, meaning no extra Ignition Battery. There is also a backing plate here on RCU advertised and you can use short stand offs like i did and don't have to use bulky rail mounts that way, works great. Only down side is the stock muffler is a little on the loud side
Michael
Michael
Thanks!
#1340
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They've been very durable in my opinion and I can be pretty hard on an airframe.
I can usually fix most any wreck (lots of practice?). Especially now with the parts pdf that Peter sent me. Thanks Peter!
Last edited by punkindrublik; 08-21-2013 at 08:25 AM.
#1342
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Add to that it also depends on your skill in building (or rebuilding!) and one determination to get it done.
i have brought home several planes over 30+ years that someone crashed and said it wasn't rebuildable, only to bring it back to my shop and have it flying a week or so later.
Bill S.
i have brought home several planes over 30+ years that someone crashed and said it wasn't rebuildable, only to bring it back to my shop and have it flying a week or so later.
Bill S.
#1343
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I have an Extreme Flight 50cc Yak 54 that I would hate to have to repair...It's very light!! Don't get me wrong, it's a well designed plane and it will take anything you can throw at it, but it would be a real mess to have to repair it in the event of a crash...The airframe is built so light and there is a lot of 1/4" balsa stringers carrying the load, it would be a mess if that got all jacked up in a crash...
Just my opinions!!
Chuck
Last edited by Atlanta 60; 08-21-2013 at 03:45 PM.
#1344
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No more so than any other plane....It's a sound design for sure...It's "old technology" so to speak so I would say it's a tad more durable than some of todays aircraft...
I have an Extreme Flight 50cc Yak 54 that I would hate to have to repair...It's very light!! Don't get me wrong, it's a well designed plane and it will take anything you can throw at it, but it would be a real mess to have to repair it in the event of a crash...The airframe is built so light that there is a lot of 1/4" balsa stringers carrying the load, it would be a mess if that got all jacked up in a crash...
Just my opinions!!
Chuck
I have an Extreme Flight 50cc Yak 54 that I would hate to have to repair...It's very light!! Don't get me wrong, it's a well designed plane and it will take anything you can throw at it, but it would be a real mess to have to repair it in the event of a crash...The airframe is built so light that there is a lot of 1/4" balsa stringers carrying the load, it would be a mess if that got all jacked up in a crash...
Just my opinions!!
Chuck
I have a Great Planes Super Skybolt that was given to me after my buddy put it into a tree. The bottom wing was broken at the dihedral brace. I was able to cut a new one and bolt it into the wing to put it back together.
A couple of months later, I had changed radios and forgot to bind the receiver. After a bit of dissassembly/reassembly I put it in the air only to realize I never connected the ailerons.
The wings survived, but the formers in the fuselage splintered into so many pieces that I had to make templates of the space and build them from scratch... What a pain.
Today's Arfs are truely wonderful, they just seem to be more difficult to repair.
Bryan
#1345
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Believe me, they can all be crashed and they all "will"break!!! If you want a crashproof plane, best stick with hand launched paper airplanes, otherwise, best learn to repair or be ready to by new planes. Just the real world as I see it
#1348
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Lucked out and was given a framed CG ultimate from a club member. He got it form a yard sale of all things!
It was supposedly built for display and was hanging in some sort of store for many years but they simply tacked the upper wing directly to the fuse! Looks straight though it still needs finishing (rear turtle deck sheeting isn't there, some sheeting in the front and some repairs to a few ribs, etc.)
Anyone have a crashed one that can spare the metal parts?
Thanks,
Bill S.
It was supposedly built for display and was hanging in some sort of store for many years but they simply tacked the upper wing directly to the fuse! Looks straight though it still needs finishing (rear turtle deck sheeting isn't there, some sheeting in the front and some repairs to a few ribs, etc.)
Anyone have a crashed one that can spare the metal parts?
Thanks,
Bill S.
#1349
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Elevator could be nose heavy. Fly an upline at 45deg and see what it does as compared to uprite. I am guessing you already have made sure the pushrod is not flexing. Also check the servo. It may be getting weak. Had that happen yrs ago and I tried everything before someone said "have you checked your servo 'under load'" - changed the servo and walla... back to normal.