RKS1949

Proboat 772,you were right on the money! The mounts were adjusted too low in front. The header now meets the pipe at the right angle (level). I did notice that it changed the alingment of my flex drive though,seems a little low,but I don't think that will hurt anything. The way it was setup before,it had near perfect alingment with the flex drive,but the header was out of alingment. I'm going to the auto parts store this morning with the O rings,and see if they have some "high heat" O rings for replacments,while picking up some red high heat silicone for the grooves in the pipe.thanks for the advice,it really helped![sm=thumbs_up.gif] Ron

Proboat 772

Youi're welcome.....

RKS1949

Well,I'm having another problem with the boat setup now![:@] I've tried to install a Venom,and Traxas (both) fail safe into the throttle wiring,and neither one will work? They work on my other radios,but not with the included JR/XR3i. I guess I'll be calling Horizon today for more answers. It will work fine without the fail safe,but I don't feel comfortable running without one on a gas/nitro boat. Ron

Proboat 772

I use the OFNA with no problems, but I don't know why yours won't work. I believe that the type of battery voltage profiles are sensitive in some failsafes.

RKS1949

Proboat 772 ,found the problem. It was the failsafe,itself! It had a wire not soldered on the board internally. I could bend the leads over the top,and it would make contact,and work. Tower is sending a replacement.Man it has been a uphill battle to get this boat on the water but I think it will be worth it,once things are lined out. I noticed that the "stock prop" has a brass sleve in the hub. What size is the prop shaft? I thought it was 1/4 inch. Ron

Proboat 772

The propshaft is 3/16. You use a 3/16 brass bushing in the prop to fit it. Never had a problem with these shafts though.

RKS1949

Thanks,I noticed that "most props" in the size this boat runs have a 1/4 inch hub. After I get it trimmed out,I think I'm going to a 3 blade prop for it.Seems to really up the performance,plus "lift" the back of the boat better. Thanks for the information. Ron

J Grav

Buddriver, I hope you are still following this thread. I want to thank you for sharing your mods to this boat. I have had the Bud sitting on the shelf for many years and last weekend I went to a float fly (for water landing planes) and thought it would be fun to run the Bud. I found your thread and did some mods to the Bud before the trip. I changed the strut angle and put on a Speedmaster rudder and got a turn fin from Insane boats. I opened up the turbine intake opening in the cowl and changed to a Hitec 5645 for the rudder. I put an acetate "deflector" on the front canard similar to what you did. The boat had never been started before going to the lake. Everything went well and the boat stuck to the water like glue. As you can see from the pics, the water wasn't exactly smooth either. There was absolutely no tendency to blow over even when it went through some rougher water. It was running much faster than my enforcer Gator which runs around 40mph. We estimated it was running in the upper 40's. I had an old stainless steel Octura 270 prop that had been repitched many years ago by Jerry Dunlap and I think it really helped. I'll get a 6717/3 and try it too.

BudDriver13

Hi J Grav, it's been awhile since I've poked my head into this forum and it's great to see this thread still alive and kicking with great responses from everyone. I can't believe I posted this almost 2 years ago now! I've been a little busy with some other projects but I still have my Bud boat and I take it out whenever possible. The boat still runs just as strong as when I posted this thread originally and has held up very well. Also thanks to everyone for all the PMs, etc. I'm glad I was able to help with any questions along with other fellow members of this forum.

BTW. . . . great pics!!

bad_boy2085

Very nice to see this it still going strong..lol....[sm=thumbup.gif]

BudDriver13

Credit goes to you my friend!

Rybar

JUST found this thread and read it today, picked up a never used Miss Bud online and NEVER knew of these issues. I haven't even had it a week, but glad I found this thread and am looking into these mods right now.

So far this is what I understand:

1) Run a 6717/3 prop, preferably polished and balanced (Voodoo props)
2) Install the Speedmaster 141 Rudder Right Control Arm w/ dual pickup (Rossisales)
3) Shim the strut 3/16" - zero at front and taper to 3/16" at rear
4) New Hydro Turn fin from Insane Boats
5) Add 8oz weight in the front
6) Change stock dual steering servos to single hi-torque servo
7) 3mm down on rear wing & custom front spoilers
8) Engine & exhaust mods

Thanks Buddriver13, going to start on this right away.

painman

Bud driver, I am changing the drive to your set up. I was wondering why you have the farrel in front of the strut, I was thinking just letting the bass tube to go straight through the strut and with the round collet there would be no need to hold the tube that the flex shaft runs through.
Let me know if you can understand what I am trying to say????
I have done most everything that you mentioned, waiting on prop 6717/3 should be here soon, been running a 7018 not bad.
I can run wot for a short blast and then the boat get loose, not bad just have to pay attention, i will be redoing the front foils mine are to short.
Your repley will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for all your help.
Painman

Firemandan

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry for digging up an old post but I had a couple questions. Is the Speedmaster Rudder a straight bolt on or do I need to modify anything? I want the aftermarket turn fin but have no way to modify the stock bracket. Is there one out there that is good and is a straight bolt on? Thanks....

roccos_van

My Feedback: (1)

I used the bracket that comes with the new turn fin, just drilled the holes to match the stock bracket.

The Speedmaster rudder is a fairly easy install.

The major problem I had was alot of the stock bolts were impossible to remove, so be careful with them.

Rybar

Sorry, that was me that posted above as Roccos_van (he is my brother)

For the rudder I ordered it by itself and used the stock bracket like buddriver, I do remember having to mill the bracket slightly for the speedmaster rudder to fit. It's fairly easy to do.

Firemandan

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the reply Rybar. I don't have access to a milling machine, can you give me a little more info on how to get the rudder to fit. I appreciate you time and thanks again, Firefighterdan[8D]

Rybar

You don't need a milling machine, just a grinder or even a hacksaw and file could do the job. Basically the rudder needs to fit into the opening of the stock bracket. The speedmaster rudder (the part where it pivots) is slightly larger (taller) then the stock rudder. Trust me, when you have the parts in hand you will know what I mean, it's very easy.

Firemandan

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Rybar.

BudDriver13

As long as you take your time and are careful you can use a grinder or hacksaw as Rybar mentioned but make sure you make make it as even as possible so you have no twisting or bending of the rudder assembly. I've seen this happen before and under pressure the entire rudder has snapped off. I'm glad to see this thread is still going strong, they should make it a sticky! I still have the Miss Bud and she is still running as strong and as fast as ever.

Firemandan

My Feedback: (1)

BudDriver13, you are the reason I just spent a bunch of money on one of these 1/8 scale boats. I like the mods you did and the info you are willing to share and they seem very reasonable to do. My only hang up now is the turn fin. I don't know how to make a bracket to fit the new fin.[] I can put out one mean fire, but when it comes to making custom parts I would just prefer to buy them. Any tips on how I can get a bracket?

BudDriver13

Unfortunately they don't make specific custom parts for these hydros. When I originally started reviewing what changes needed to be made, I did a lot of research and looked at what some of the "real" hydro race boats used, what worked best, etc. and tried to apply some of those to the Miss Bud. As with any customization or mod work, you sometimes have no choice but to make the parts yourself to truly make an application work. I'm sure you can probably find other parts that might fit without any type of custom parts, but from what I have found and tried I believe that this is one of the best set-ups for this hull and pretty much 9 out of 10 modded Proboats hydros are running this set-up with few variations, etc.

Rybar

Firemandan, just order the turn fin and bracket. Re-drill the holes on the bracket to match the holes on the stock turn fin. Again very easy to do:

Firemandan

My Feedback: (1)

Right on......Thanks guy's.

painman

Firemandan, if you have not installed the rudder yet, you can take off the needed amount with a good small flat file and some ELBOW grease. It will work fine, seems like you need to remove some of the material off the top notch so that the rudder will still be level with the top of the rudder bracket. Can't remember but I think I am right, you will know as mentioned before when you hold the new rudder up to the existing bracket.
After you have done all of the mentioned up grades, you will have one screeming hydro that is capabile of more HP than the stocker can put out.

Good Luck;

Randy[sm=shades_smile.gif]