krproton

Hi Pascal.

Don't notice much difference in this bird with the gear retracted or extended. She's got a pretty wide C.G. range. We do instruct in the manual to check/set the C.G. with the gear down as this is the way we came up with our figures and tested our model. Also, some of you may not install retracts so again, that's why we specify checking the C.G. with the gear down. [sm=49_49.gif]

timothy thompson

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well im cutting the bomb bay tommorow got the corsair doors done

krproton

Hi KenVC.

Sorry you didn't get a B-25 from the first shipment. The deal is that right now we have the second shipment waiting in our warehouse. I believe the quantity is about the same as the first shipment, so when those kits are released that should fill any remaining back orders. The hold up, (again) is with the decals. New decals should be in this week and as soon as those arrive and get inserted (probably all within the same day!), the kits will be released. So, I think your B-25 should get to you in a week or two at most. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

I'll try to remember to check in again and let everybody know when those are released.

Good night everybody. I'll check in again tomorrow (between flying (hopefully), mowing the lawn (maybe), football (watching on TV) and ice hockey (in my rec. league).[sm=redface.gif]

Tim

norm

Hello Tim,( Krypton), I have been through most of the planning and some building but so far, all is left to do is finish...I see the end...in a few days. I followed your tips at the begining of this thread and found when working on the noze, that it is easyer to fit the bottom part permanently and make the noze gunner greenhouse canopy removable only. I do not have pictures at this point but it is a very simple process. aligning the bottom canopy and the top one with tape and securing 4 screws to the bottom part onto the fuselage. You then remove the greenhoused canopy and you test fit the noze gunner cabin details. Once you secure the details, (I used two sided tape) You notice then that there is an approx gap og 1/8 between the detail contour and the bottom (chin) part. I placed ribbon self adhesive velcro between the two parts to secure the surrounding of the bottom part. Also between the two parts it is possible to glue scrap 1/8 ply so you can screw in the top part greenhouse canopy to the front sides. Using six of the #2 3/8 buttonhead screws. i fasten the canopy , 4 screws to the fuse and two to the sides in the joint with the bottom part. This way the fitting of the noze is always "on the noze" and makes the whole assembly sturdier. I have to learn how to insert pictures and will send some this week.

Also by doing this process, it is very windy here in montreal and my 7 year old girl came running to tell me the witch hat had flew away! Running to the emergency, I dropped the greenhouse canopy and cracked the front. (still holds in one piece but for the ones who knows me, I have a professional malformation that every thing must be impeccable, mechanically and esthetically) Tim are the parts available yet? TOPA1715 ? And since you have a priviledged position (if you have the info) they say it is an assembly, what does it include?

Also "E-power Tim" if you read this, i'm very interested in making a cut out for bomb bay doors like you are doing and I'm maybe not the only one! If you can I would like to know how you proceed, if you need to cut through the formers and how you reinforce. If you can make sort of a step to follow description. I would appreciate.

Thanx guys, I'm going back to the dunjon!

BTW ths B25 from Top flite is a 5/5, nothing deceiving, really nothing deceiving!

flaviosi

Bonjour, Pascal!!

Welcome to the non-Shakespeare Club!

Flavio

KenVC

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Tim,

Thanks so much for keeping us informed. Your help and updating is second to none. It would sure be great if all mfr's. of models would do as you have done on your own time!

timothy thompson

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well ill go thru a step by step cut today. first pic is the uncut fuse. NO WRINKLES AT ALL UNBELIEVABLE

krproton

Good morning.

Thanks Ken.

I can't take too much thanks for the time I have spent answering questions on this site. I have worked on many projects at Hobbico, but for some reason I am suddenly very enthused about this B-25. I guess I have just "fallen in love" with this plane and am very interested to make sure everybody has as much success and enjoys it as much as I. So you see, it is out of joy, not dedication or duty that I am writing here, so it is play not work. Our computer is downstairs where our television is and where my wife, my step-daughter and my self spend much of our time, so all I have to do is walk over to the computer during a TV commercial or when they are doing homework (my wife is a teacher at the local community college) and it takes little time away from our time together. Like right now, my step-daughter is watching TV and my wife is making coffee, so they are "doing their own thing" right now anyway and I can still be in the same room. But I have also promised to cook some bacon, so I better get going!

And right now, everything is easy and everybody is happy, but I hope it remains this way when more people are building their B-25s and begin flying them! [sm=drowning.gif]

I'll check in again later! [sm=cool.gif]

Tim

timothy thompson

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reinforced sides with hard balsa now installing rear bulkhead.both bulkheads in now going to put the scale floor in

timothy thompson

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krypton what is the large opaque tube for? i need to remove it for the bomb bay. so far perfect conversion. The hinge line is low so the fuse is very strong! I sanded the bulkheads and remeber the wood will be covered with sheet styrene all scaled out .




tim put those spider screen savers on and you will get more time

p39

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The tube is for running the servo wires.

timothy thompson

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ok ill find another route. This construction will allow a 100% SCALE bay with no structural problems im even adding the longitudinal stiffners they field added to the sides of the fuse

sgoen

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I have to tell you, after reading this forum I would like to get this kit, but I am very concerned/scare about having a one engine quit problem. I have been in flying for over 25 years, but never had a twin. I would sure hate to loose a plane like this. Any ideas. I was planing on putting in the OS 70 4 stroke engines. How much of a cost difference would it be to go to electric over gas?

p39

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If you read the forum you'll remember that the plane was designed with that problem in mind. There was a few messages about adding a gyro and all, but it really isn't needed. you just have eto learn a few simple "rules" if you have an engine out- just don't turn into the dead engine.... land right away. Use rudder. The engines are much closer together on this bird and that helps loads.

rcmorrow

Timothy, looks like very nice work on the bombay doors ! Looking forward to seeing your progress over the next couple days.

I was able to email Glennis Aircraft (makers of very fine scale wheels for r/c aircraft and related craft). They have a set of wheels (4" mains and 1 3/4" nose wheel) available with or without brakes. Looks like they are a bit pricey ($255 wheels only, $400 with brakes), but they are really an amazing company for scale wheels.

I also know of others using the Robart wheels and foam inserts inside for giving strength due to the wieght of the finished B-25.

Just wanted to share this information if anyone was interested. The website for Glennis is:

www.glennis.com

I am looking into purchasing the wheels, without brakes I think, but I'll have to consult the bank account. If I get them I'll put some photos up here for everyone to see the wheels.

Best to everyone.

timothy thompson

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heres more pics

p39

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The Glennis wheels in my opinion are way too "over scale" for this model. The Robarts should look just fine in my opinion. If I were doing a Ziroli '25.... yes, then the Glennis wheels would be a must. I'm looking to get this done and fly the heck out of it as a fun airplane... not necessarily a knee knocking piece of art.

Looks like the bomb bay is coming along nicely.

norm

About Gyros..The Top Flite B-25 has been designe to remain controllable with one engine out. I'll say again that in the worst scenarios, you may be surprized by an engine out. If you look at my posting # 10 (I think) it self explains. For the gyro, the immediate effect on the aircraft when an engine quits, is that the aircraft "Yaws" towards the engine that is out. That means the aircraft abruptly whants to turn to the dead engine. This action can be immediately controlled by adding a gyro on the rudder. The gyro is overridden when you play with the stick so do not worry about a gyro. The gyro only acts as a stand by watchdog for this sudden yaw. If the Yaw is not controlled right away, the aircraft will enter a spiral dive and fly out of control to its doom.

Now if that scenario happens at 300 feet (without a gyro), you cut the throttle and you fly it in like a dead stick ( normal classic procedure) and you may even gain back control by controlling yourself the correct input of rudder and ailerons! Like all of you may know, this scenario never happened when you crashed a plane... So why make your life difficult if you may buy an insurance of 150,00$ which will more than likely bring back your model. The gyro acts as a Yaw damper and makes the correct input at any time you move the ailerons. I have tried it and and testing this system on model twins, I am not only pretending that it may work...it works plain and simple. Also about emergency procedures on full scale aircrafts, it is a standard procedure to go full throttle, control the yaw with the rudder anf maintain wings level with the ailerons then fly to the closest field to save your life. Planes are planes and fly like plane. Do not be fooled by the macho in you. Think of it, when GPS did not exist, we still found our way but now we have it why not use it! make your life easy and stop worrying about twins...enjoy the sound and the beauty of this B-25. I'm a warbird lover so nothing better could have happened to me this last week!

norm

(E-power)Tim, you impress me! It seems like we are still honeymooning with our B-25 and there you have to complete the scale functionability and rip open your model!. I still have a channel available...now I know what it will be used for!!! This is a neat job and the pictures explains everything. I will be closely following your hinging system and the door open and close system. Will it be air cylinders? I might just install a "T" on my brake system and add an air valve to actuate the bomb bay doors. Modeltech has a bomb drop system for 2 to 24 bombs. I will instal the 6 bomb system . If you look into this, you may hide your batteries with scale bombs that works! (only fall out). Nice job you have done so far.

norm

TiAbout bomb release system, it is not Modeltech. It is Wingspanmodel.com and it is an electronic release system. sorry!

timothy thompson

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well here are some better ones a little detail

timothy thompson

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my lipos are going in but I can stll detail the inside as far as driving air seems easy but ill look at servo too first i have to encase the balsa wioth this styrene . Then i detail the styrene. Hinger I havent even thought about but ill post everything. Remember use a new razor saw and outline the area in blu masking tape it helps guide the saw. I used several layers. dull the adhesive by taping it to your leg a few times that way it wont pull the monokote up

krproton

sgoen,

welcome aboard the thread.

Start from the beginning of this thread and read posts about tuning engines and other things about flying twins. There is no way to get around it, no matter what, an engine-out scenario is something you want to avoid, but there are precautions you can take to keep this from happening. And should you find yourself with an engine out, in most cases, all hope is not lost. Just do some research reading through these posts to begin with.

Tim

timothy thompson

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E POWER

flaviosi

Sgoen,

I'm as concerned as you are. I'm going electric to reduce the odds.

Flavio