Rare

it will work. But, you would need rims with a deep offset to fill out the wheel wells.

N2Otorious

My Feedback: (3)

Glad to have found this thread, filled with folks that love the TT-01 as much as i do(and RcLuke). This car has been the most fun for the dollar I've had in the hobby. I race in a local TT-01 bone stock only class, and win almost every race. My car is heavily looked over, and am oftem called a cheater, althou my stuff is within the rules. I know it isn't the car, it's the driver.... When I get a picture, I'll post a picture of my beloved TT-01.

Rare

Welcome!!!! Youll love this thread!!!!

N2Otorious

My Feedback: (3)

I started reading on page 48, soo i guess i need to read the fist 48 pages to be up tp date.

Rare

Good idea!

N2Otorious

My Feedback: (3)

You fellas were talking about battery packs in this thread, I have a battery related question.

The stock TT-01 class I race in has a regulations on battery packs.

1500Mah Max - 6 cells Max - NO MATCHED CELLS...

With that in mind, I'm using the EPIC 1500Mah sport pack NiCd. Anyone know of a NiMh pack that would fit within the rules of our club race? also I found plenty of battery maintance and care tips for NiMh, but no tips on how to store NiCd etc. I use a Triton charge to cycle and top off my packs before each race. any input will be appreciated.

Rare

trash the nicds! go with nimh. I found this...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMWC4&P=7

you could build a custom pack at CBP.

Rare

or this maybe....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUE3&P=7

N2Otorious

My Feedback: (3)

What is CBP?

Rare

CheapBAtteryPacks.com

mindwreck

those ibs should do it. what kind of race is this? those are some strict rules and really low battery cap.

N2Otorious

My Feedback: (3)

We call it the TT-01 class, it is a stock, un-modified, out of the box class. Very few things are allowed. The low capictity packs was declared plenty when we ran 20 minutes on a cheap EPIC 1500Mah sport pack. The Idea was if someone did sheak a hot motor past tech inspection well the battery life would probably be enough for a hotter then stock motor.

Must have,
Tamiya tires(has to say Tamiya on the side wall)
1500Mah 6cell factory assembled pack.

Modifactions from stock allowed,
Deans plugs in place of factory plugs
Wires can be shortened
ESC can be soldered direct to motor
Ball bearing upgrade allowed
Motor heat sink allowed
Any lexan body allowed(I sometimes race with my school bus body, and win)
Any Gear combination allowed most popular is 23 - 58

No openeing the can to advance timing
Shocks must be factory friction with silver spring mounted in factory location.
No modifications to the chassis, or suspension.
No foam inserts in tires.

They Idea was me and a group of Nitro touring car guys saw the cold winter coming on so we wanted something to do during the winter, too cold to setup the track in the parking lot. so we knew it's have to be electric. We almost went with the HPI sprint but the TT-01 won out the vote, so in a Nascar fashion we made rules to keep them as stock as possible yet fast enough to be fun. We believe we acomplished that. We started the class with 5 guys this was 5 races ago, word has gotten out, last race we had 16 car field, enough to run 2 classes, amature and pro. The classes were assighed by the drivers ability to get arround the course clean. It was fun to watch the Amatures race, I swear it looked like a crash'em up derby at times. I'm so pleased with my car if someone would have told me how much of a beating these things will take I'd have never believed them. I've only seen one guy break a part, he hit the corner of the wall Wide Open, within 10 minutes we had him back together once we found all his pieces on the track. We as a racing club wanted to breath life into the racing scene here in town. I think we have done that. Thanks to Tamiya TT-01.

Ohh yeah, we rent a inline hockey rink on Saturdays at 50/hour, we can get our whole track setup, tore down, and run 2 4minute races and a 7minute main for each class. in 2 hours... we desperately need a transponder system now.

When we raced outdoors are lap counter started complaining that not all the laps were being counted, the software said not enough time had elapsed to count annother lap, hard to believe but the TT-01 cars were turning faster lap times then the Nitro cars. so we made the track bigger and added a few more turns to extend the lap times. I love this car so much, I bough a 2nd one, so I can set my gears different between the two, and then depending on the track layout, choose what car to run... I'll take pictures soon and post up..

bIGmiK

Sounds like you have a great time, I wish my LHS did that.

SerenityRacingRC

OK one of you seasones TT-01 guys explain this. On the motor mount there are several postions that you can choose from to mount the motor. The only difference in the mounting postions is "snugness" to which the pinion is on the spur. The book says that the changing postion will change the gear ration. I can't understand how that would happen and don't think it would. Am I correct in thinking that changing the mounting postion will only change the "snugness" of the gears?

bIGmiK

Mmmmm yes you are correct.

What you do, is buy a different pinion, then you place it in the CORRECT place, and that changes the ratio.

Only ever use a pinion in the correct spot, I don't care if somethign else feels like a better position, use the correct one.

SerenityRacingRC

Which one would be the correct one and why? I assumed that it would be the top and bottom holes/ most left and right. That is were I put mine and it kinda chewed on my spur a but due to some slippage. I do have a grossly over powered motor in but that is besides the point. Why are there different holes if there is only a right one? or do you mean the right one per set up?

bIGmiK

Your manual is your friend.

I don't mind helping people, but it would be good if they did SOME research first. I know for sure that it is in the manual.

SerenityRacingRC

Oh thanks man.. I don't have a manual. Didn't come with one. I down loaded one that I can look at on the screen but guess what. It says changing the mounting postion CHANGES THE GEAR RATIO!!!!!!! Good thing you are such a nice guy.

bIGmiK

I'll go look at a manual online, then I'll see if I can help you or not

bIGmiK

Found it online....

http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58330ml.pdf

You can take a horse to water.... but you can't make it drink.

SerenityRacingRC

I have no idea what you just said, but you are looking at the same thing as I am so I don't see were the probem is. I guess I will go to my LHS, they don't have such big heads there. Thanks anyway.

bIGmiK

Read the damn manual..

On 1 page there is a diagram saying which hole can be used with what pinion with the stock spur, OPEN YOUR EYES.

It's on the same page as the motor being installed.

TIGER76

Hey guys need some advice please i recently got an tt01 tamiya and hopped up the propshaft and bearings now im looking at a new motor its got the sta silvercan tamiya motor now but im confused a bit by what i can use without ripping the thing to bits lol
I want it a little faster not groundbreaking just a bit more speed
ive looked at the tamiya ones the RS and others can you recommend any good motors for around 50 pounds? im not too sure about the turns etc so is lowest better/speed?and how low turns should i go without damaging my ride..
thanks in advance guys

ps is the Tamiya Super Stock Motor Type TZ any good/worth buying?? 23t or would it kill my TT01 lol

rcluke

check out www.modelsport.co.uk

for £50 you do not want a tamiya motor, you could get a 7X1 motor

Rare

*cough*overkill*cough*