norm

Thomas,

Look in this thread in the first 2-20 pages for images by "Timothy Thompson", he did a great job. He has described his work step by step.

Normand

envallm

Guys,

I am doing my bellcrank installation for main gear doors. I am using the aluminum bellcrank levers I purchased from someone on this forum. However, I cant seem to find the plastic washers that are referred to in the manual. I figure I can just proceed without them, since I am using aluminum lever and not the wood ones included stock. Does anyone see a problem with this? The brass bushings fit in the levers without problem.

Thanks guys

norm

no plastic washer.

krproton

No Rob,

THANK YOU!!!

Post some picsI know it's just an ARF and they are all pretty much alike, but what the heck...

Tim

krproton

Hi morganew.

Don't sweat the washers. Just get the screws that hold in the bellcranks as tight as possible without binding the bellcranks. You'll be "good-to-go."

Tim

jbarnes

Is the guy that was producing the aluminum bell cranks for the door still selling them?

norm

The guy selling the aluminiul levers in the thread is "mike-rc" he is from Port Washington, NY. (Long Island)

They are great.

Normand

CCFPILOT

I've been following this thread since I found it last January. By that time I had finished my TF B25 as designed. I notice a lot of fellows have added the operating bomb bay doors. I have looked at many pictures of the full size B25s, but it is hard to find the correct position for the doors. Does any one have some details on this???

I'm not ready to cut balsa yet, but would like to outling the doors.

Robert 111

Hello again,
I’ve had lots of photos taken by others at the field but none of my own, it looks like the photo on the box though because I kept it pretty much stock, right down to the puncher proof tires and aerodynamic pilots. Which by the way look pretty drawn good on those low slow passes.
I used OS 70s and Robart retracts as recommended. It came out at 19.4 lbs. and is a real floater at full flaps it lands at a crawl without any hint of tip stalling.
This plane is a real show stopper and a crowd pleaser, everyone stops what their doing to get a better look.
I use a lot of rudder when I’m flying so this plane just seems like it was made for me. Thank-you again you guys sure did your home work on this one.
I have a few tips and suggestions I would like to contribute to your thread if you like?
Many happy landings;
ROB

c550

My Feedback: (16)

Ccepilot,

There are a few posts early on about the proper location. As I remember it the leading edge of the bomb bays is in line with the leading edge of the wing. I found that there is a former about an 1/8th of an inch aft of the wing leading edge and that is where I made mine. It isn't quite scale but its close enough while not having to remove and replaceformers.

Hope that helps.

Dave

krproton

Robert, of course, tell us your suggestions!

I'm thrilled that you like your B-25. That's what keeps me going at my job. Sometimes I forget how lucky I am to work "in the industry," but it's still a job with a boss, responsibilities, expectations and occasional disappointments. But I always keep the modeler in mind when I'm working on a new project and success stories like yours are my reward. I don't mind exposing my self in these threads because I stand behind my projects and want to help others out if I can while learning how things can be done even better next time.

Well, keep us up-to-date with your B-25 and let us know if you have more suggestions.

Tim

Robert 111

Tim,
Here are my tips and suggestions, I hope some find them useful.

#1 Those rare earth magnets in the kit worked so well holding the nacelle hinges in place while the glue set, I ran out and bought a bunch more of them, so I could do more than one at a time.
#2 The optional OS exhaust headers available, OS Part # 7210900, will allow you to hide the mufflers inside the cowls.
#3 “ Markal “ Paint Markers works very well on the tips of those black props, it’s durable, easy to apply and to touch up, the yellow matches the cowls and prop hubs as well.
#4 Installing a switch on the retract servo will lock the wheels down when the plane is parked. And may save you the trouble of having to repair all those doors.
#5 Reliable idles and good response is very important with multi engine set ups. This is much easier if you break in your engines and find their optimal settings, one at a time on a flying test bed like a trainer.
# 6 One engine will always be stronger than the other. I like to put the stronger on left side and richen it up to match the RPM on the right . Never, never, ever, lean out the weaker engine to match the stronger!!!
# 7 Coupling your rudders and ailerons (about 20% is a good starting point), will insure the proper rudder response if an engine should quit. I have had times with other multi’s when I had no idea an engine had quit until I could see the prop wasn’t turning.
# 8 Keeping the weight down on any plane will make it a Joy to fly, rather than a Challenge. The B-25 is no exception. Less weight equals less stress for both the pilot and the plane.

I Hope These Help With Many Happy Landings,
ROB

camdyson

Interesting tip about the switch on the retract servo - switch harnesses generally just 2-wire (no signal obviously), so I presume you just spliced a switch into the power wire(s) of the servo lead itself? Or do 3-wire switch harnesses exist?

Thinking on the fly here, I'd consider using a round "jack" plug, where removing the plug makes it live. Mount on outside of fus. with a red "remove to arm" ribbon attatched to the plug. Pull plug out after radio on and retracts pumped up.

BTW, you can get Hamilton propeller decals from Tower if you want really jazzy props!

Cam

chris923

My Feedback: (53)

Hi Guys,

I just purchase sgoens' B-25 he was about 3/4 done with it and called it quits. I have read most of the tread, There have been some suggestions about 1/9 scales pilots.

Which one have you guys had luck with?

Chris923

CCFPILOT

Thanks for the tip on Hamilton Standard decals. I took a look at Tower and they look great.

Also good tip on the retract "remove before flight". I had my retract switch in the wrong position at turn on my last time out, but I got it corrected in time so that only one gear had time to retract, and there was no damage. It looks like I could use this suggestion.

By the way some of my older Airtronics PCM systems used three wire receiver switches. I think it was to supply power to the fail safe when power was off. I guess those switches wouldn't work today because the connectors are not compatible.

norm

I beleive Cam came up with a simple solution and it is best. I replaced a prop and forced to repair doors 2 times so far. I now use the TF stand all the time on the ground. I have bought micro "push off" switch 1/4 x1/4 x 1/8 inch at the electronic store and was thinking of disabling the retract servo by cutting the ground on it when the plane is on the floor.
My complicated idea was to make a "SQUAT SWITCH" so that when the plane is sitting on its wheels...the oleos compress about 1/16th-1/8 of an inch enough to push the switch and cut any signal to the retract servo, then when the plane is airborne the oleo decompress releasing the switch and reactivate the signal to the servo.

I love complex things but sometimes simple = better I elect the Camdison idea and will be installed on the next scheduled maintenance (means this week end).

Normand

MLDELARUELLE

Hi,
I'm mounting the nose, but I don't understand how to install the receiver's batteries.
I link the battery to the wood board with velcro, but I did not get how to glue this board on the nose's floor.
Any pics would be greatly appreciated !


And I have a big orange triangle for the floor of the nose details. Why is it not green ?
I read the beginning of this thread, and it seems to be paint in green by other guys.

Thanks
ML

Robert 111

Cam,
Spektrum & JR both make small three wire switches plugged in between the receiver and the servo and your good to go. I mounted mine on a Du-bro universal kwik-switch mount. Pull out, to lock, push in, to release . Works great taxiing back and forth from the pits just keep the switch away from the arc of the props. I like your idea you could sell those.
Cheers
ROB

camdyson

ML,

You glue wooden rails along both sides of the tray, and glue under the front "floor" - read the instructions closer and you'll see. Put the velcro through at the same time - less fiddly than later, and don't mount it too far back or it clashes with the half-round ply tongue that supports it. I'll attatch a couple of photos.

The orange triangle thing is a kneeling pad for the bombadier - repaint it leather couloured. (ORANGE - geeze guys) I'll post a couple of pics of this and a few other bits:

camdyson

While I've got the 'ol camera in the workshop, I'll add a few others - the gimbal was just detailed a bit and repainted, bomb bay is sealed awaiting final paint, bomb door inners ready to be attached, plus a few of the aluminium tape added here and there. The hatch in the bomb bay floor (roof?!) is the gyro mount - it's stuck to the other side. Note no Nelson hinges as there's some problem with supply, so used up a few large Dubro pinned hinges.

Next step will be to add panel lines and steel-wool the lot, then prep and airbrush all the aluminium and assorted exhaust stains, panels etc. Once done, will weather and seal. ('Scuse me borrowing some of your techniques fytrjok!) Oh, and the missing outer fuel caps!.....

Cam

Oh, thanks to one of our other contributors for the rear cockpit and turret images - sorry I don't have your name in front of me.

MLDELARUELLE

Hi,
Thanks camdyson for the pic !

English is not my mother's language.

Good flights to all
ML

camdyson

A pleasure ML - and don't worry, I don't speak ANY French

Cam

Robert 111

Tim,
I went out to my flying field Friday afternoon and found it deserted . The B-25 and I had some Quality time together and I got in six, fifteen minute flights without any distractions . Heaven, is a warm spring day, a field to yourself and a plane like this to fly. This plane is so well thought out helping to improve on it is tough. The one thing I noticed though is the amount of excess fuel left after a fifteen minute flight. I don’t like to put the remaining fuel back in my jug at the end of the day, because of the exhaust residue, so I like to try to burn as much as I can on the last flight but that may take as much as ½ hour at the rate I fly. The fuel tanks seem to be on the Large side and could easily be 4oz. smaller for the engines recommended. This may seem a silly suggestion but it will save on fuel and weight.
Many Happy Landings
Rob

CCFPILOT

Just wondering,

How many are still using the supplied 1/4 x 20 x 2" nylon bolts to hold the outer wing panels?

I replaced those supplied with 2 1/4" long steel cap head bolt and small pattern washer works 100% better. I don't need a flashlight to see the slot in the screw, and after its unscrewed, I can reach in with long nose pliers or forceps and remove the bolt, then the wing comes right off. It also picks up about 3 or 4 threads in the wing.

Ethan

MLDELARUELLE

Hi,
where can I found pics of this mount ?
Thanks.

ML