aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

You are welcome nbla! I bought my slipper clutch from rcmart.com they seem to have two in stock right now;


http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df0...5-p-19794.html

nbla

Bookmarked ! Will have to wait til next month to order it tho, sucks but I can't afford it just now :P

Thanks again

Casper06

Excellent way to explain tightening diffs aflipz. [&:]

nbla

Aflipz, thanks again, I believe I have my diffs sorted now
Which leads me to my next question. If I later on change to a brushless system, I guess I will have to "recalibrate" my diffs? It won't be a problem tho, it wasn't much work

Anyway, I'm really eager to take it out for a spin, but there's too much snow here, booooh

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

No problem.

You shouldnt have to re-adjust for brushless, when they are set right they just "work"

What you may want to do is play with minor adjustments and see how affects handling; on very low grip surfaces where oversteer is a constant problem I tend to set my front diff a bit tighter, and if there's too much grip and I want to easily be able to cause oversteer with throttle I might tighten the rear and loosen the front a bit.

Snow? You should do like we do and go find yourself a nice hockey rink to drift on!

sheograth

I can't believe I don't have one of these yet. I better get with the program and buy one [&:]

nbla

Bummer, it looks like the dampers I got are too long, got the 60mm ones, anyone knows how long the stock ones are?

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

I'm not 100% on that... I'll check when I get home; I got some yeah racing's and i THINK they were 55mm's and they sort of fit but I didn't like them at all (all springs too hard, poor quality mounting hardware that alters geometry and adds "leverage" of forces transfered to the suspension holders) so I removed them but ride height was ok.

What kind did you get?

Casper06

Get the EVO chassis so you can get the shell or the 07 WRX if you can find one.

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

Ok, the replacement shocks I had fitted were 55mm but I do absolutely remember a gentlemen from Sweden on youtube who goes by the alias nitrodrink and he used 60mm yeah racing 1:10 dampers on his DF-03 RA and seems pleased with them.

nbla

Yeah, I got the YR 60mm dampers, but I don't think they'll fit without modification. The angle the dogbones(?) end up in is just too much and the rotation will not work, atleast not on my car :/

Anyway, I assembled the stock shocks, and everything is super now

(I seem to have 8x60mm YR Dampers to spare now, lol, could be handy in future project I suppose )

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

Scratch that, it wasn't nitrodrink but fathead431 and he's actually in Switzerland not Sweeden! but he does use the 60mm's


here's what he told me about them;

"theyre hard, but i added the 3 hole pistons included with the kit and used 50 or 60wt oil in them just fine for jumps and bashing.
if i want to go soft, i kept the stock ones as tc ones
love them. yea, theyre heavy. but i use lipo so all is well
hardware with ti was fine. the medium springs with the alum damper kit are equivalent to the stock kit springs.
love them overall!"


here is the video, and you can use youtube to ask him how he made them work;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wE7b4xm9WXY

nbla

Nah, I'll be fine with the stock dampers for now Thanks anyway

Just took the car out for a spin, while it did handle pretty good in the snow, there was WAAY too much snow, couldn't really drive more than 2 minutes. Anyway, car is inside now, hanging upside down drying, hopefully nothing is damaged

Nothing more to report

Khar00f

Good day fellas, I'm new to the RC Hobbie, and fell upon this thread after my many days of readings and Ihave a few "noob" questions if some of you don't mind answering,

I've read this while thread and many others but here's my situation.

Idecided to go ahead with electric for the simple reason that it needs less maintenance but mostly because I'm probably gonna be driving my car indoor sometimes and so gas for now was not an option as a first car.

As mentioned previously i'm new to this hobbie, always wanted one of those cars to play around with but never got around to getting one, and now finally the time has come.

I like the EvoXcar model, so i was looking for that body shape first and foremost, Istumbled upon Tamiya and this model.

www.tamiya.com/english/products/57793lancer_x/index.htm using the TT01 Type-E

Istarted reading a bit on it (honestly not i haven't found much on it except that it reach a top speed of approx 35KM/h), and figured WTH as a first model can't be bad, so i ordered it from my local hobbie shop (the guy at the hobbie shop said it's not a bad first car),

Then my cousin a day later brought another car to my attention with the EvoXbody, as you might have guessed it was this one

www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-58440-rc-mitsubishi-lancer-evo-df03ra-p-90014092.html DF-03RA

Now the advantage of this over the other one is that I get to paint it and assemble it ( I like to tinker with my toys), I asked the hobbie shop sales guy if there's much diff in power/speed between the two, he told me they're pretty similar but that the DF-03 has better customisation uptions, with that in mind I changed my order to the new model with the DF-03 Chassis and also because it seems to fit more the type of ground I have in my area to play around with.

so now I come here with some questions, I'll list them straight up to get straight to the point, after reading the thread some terms I couldn't make out.

Preferred usage: Iplan on using this car asphalf streets, sidewalks, grass and rought terrain, purely for pleasure no competition level or racing level at all.

1st for definitions (terms i've crossed in this thread):

A) what's 2S, 3S
B) what's 9T, 8.5T, 5T
C) what's Lipo's
D) what's hop ups

2nd opinions:

Now the DF-03RAmodel doesn't come with battery pack for the car, nor controller device, nor charger

and so i ask for your opinions on what i should be buying regarding those.

Ireally have no idea what to look for, and at the same time i don't want my car to die after 5-10 mins, I would like to drive it for a good 20-30 mins, with a lot of stop speed (if that's even possible).

For now that's all i can think about, but you guys can be sure i'll be coming back with more questions as they pop in my head :P

my car is supposed to be ready for pickup on thrusday, and so i'd like to be ready by then to know what i need to get to have the most fun out my first car.

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

A) what's 2S, 3S

That's the number of cells in series that form a battery pack, when we are speaking of 2s and 3s packs we are referring to lipos (see C) 6s and 7s usually refers to nicad/nimh batteries.

B) what's 9T, 8.5T, 5T

number of turns in a motor, in these cases brushless motors the higher the turn count the slower the motor and usually the lower the current draw and speed. A certain equilibrium needs to be found between voltage used, motor turns, vehicle size and weight etc as well as gearing.


C) what's Lipo's

lithium polymer batteries, 3.7 volts per cell compared to 1.2 for nicad nimh. lipos are lighter, store more energy and have a flat discharge curve meaning constant power from start to finish as opposed to a punchy feel at the beginning and a gradual decrease in power, by the time you get to 3/4 discharged a nimh pack feels much slower than it did when you started driving, while you'll barely notice a difference on a lipo until the last few moments. The only drawback of lipos is their somewhat picky charging requirements but nowadays one can have a really good lipo charger that balances (equalizes voltage between cells) for about the same price as a nicad nimh charger. There's no point in starting off with nicads. (just obey the rules and read the instructions of your charger, speed controller, batteries etc..)


D) what's hop ups

upgrade parts sold at high price to increase performance and bling of your RC car; this is how they really get you $$$$$ spend wisely, ask questions. Some of these turn out to be counter productive and reduce performance as they empty your wallet.


Next for you; buy a good 40+ watt preferably adjustable soldering iron and learn to use it, get a bunch of deans ultra plug connector males and females. toss that brushed motor in the trash as well as the speed controller and find yourself a brushless combo (many mentioned all over the net, I use ezrun, now 60A esc with 9T motor, perfect for 2S lipos in the 2200-4000mah range *just make sure they fit the tray.

The tt-01 and DF03 RA are about the same size and weight, utilize same motors etc both should go just as fast, but IMO you did the right choice; more terrain forgiving and more dirt protection for trouble free low parts wear fun!

If you have any doubt whatsoever be it with choosing motors, parts, lipos, chargers etc. feel free to ask before you do anything you might come to regret...


for the controller and receiver; I'd go right ahead with a quality 2.4ghz system, if you plan to stay electric the 2ch is enough, otherwise may aswell get the 3ch (you don't want to buy twice) Check the marketplace you'll often find used gear for cheap, especially the 2ch many go for that at first then feel the need for 3ch later on; your gain.

check out hobbyking.com for some cheap batteries, I use flightmax 2200mah 20C 2 cell packs but some of the larger ones will fit.

Khar00f

wow thanks for the fast reply, since you're from Montreal, you might know the shop, i'm buying from Hobbieville on Decarie,

anyways, i figured i'd buy locally at least for the car in case something is wrong with it and to deal with warranties and shipping it's a PITA.

now for all other parts i plan on shopping around online probably,

As for the iron use that's no problem, i'm good with the iron I mod other electronic stuff so i'm set on that end.

as for the controller,

what would you recommend as brand/model, i'm thinking for now i'll go with 2ch cause i don't think i'll be upgrading to gas anytime soon, unless there isn't much diff. between the two regarding pricing.

So i should go with 3S lipos from what you're saying (it's only logical that 3S is better than 2Sit means it lasts longer right?)

hop ups for now i'm gonna skip unless there's something you deem good to have off the bat. about the motor ESCcombo, i'll keep that in mind, i'm gonna run on stock just to get a feel for it, then i'll upgrade in a couple of months or so. I read everywhere that brushless is the way to go. When you say make sure they fit the tray, are you talking about the lipos pack or the motor ESCcombo? and regarding fitting anything i should look out for to make sure it fits?

EDIT: Iwent to hobbyking.com to check out batteries, wha's the XXC Discharge thing? what should i look for, it goes from 15Cto 45C

Thanks aflipz

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

Ha! I didn't even notice that; see I didn't give you preferential treatment just because you're in Montreal. Hobbieville is not a bad vendor, kudos to you for encouraging a local shop.

For the controller, the "deluxe" route would be a spektrum, but if your budget doesn't allow it there are some really really cheap 2.4 transmitter/receiver combos out there that can be had rather cheaply and do the job just fine.

ring up Martin at http://www.stratagememiniature.com/strata_store/ He's a really nice guy and he'll find you something. Tell him I sent you!


2s vs 3s; nop 3s won't last longer, it'll go faster. when you put cells in series you add up their voltage not their capacity. The higher the voltage the more amps an equivalent motor will draw thus the run will be shorter but have much more power.

The setup I am using; ezrun 60A (labeled turnigy 60A car esc at hobbyking) ezrun 9T motor and 2S lipos is actually a more balanced setup; on 3S i'm probably going to overheat this summer. Plus, in using 3S it further limits the capacity of the batteries (2200mah, 3000mah etc) the battery tray is not that big to begin with and as a rule of thumb the higher the capacity the bigger the cell; you might find a 4000+ 2s that fits, but a 3S made of the same cells likely won't.

Khar00f

regarding the batteries, what's the Discharge rating and what should Ibe looking for?

goes from 15Cto 45C

for example there's this item

hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp

they sound great, but probably wouldn't fit due to size but they're rated 20C

what's the constant discharge i should be looking when choosing batteries?

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

Well first off that's a 5s pack; you are looking for a 2S pack.

"C" rating refers to the discharge capacity of the pack; that one you link to is a 5000mah pack (5000 one thousandth of an amp, or... 5 amps, expressed 5 amp/hour) Discharging it at 5 amps means you are drawing 1C, or one times it's rated capacity in AH.

So... a 10C 5Ah pack can be discharged at 50A continuous, and a 20C pack of the same capacity can be discharged at 100A.. Get it?

So, a 45C 1000mah pack should be capable of providing you 45A continuously, for 1/45th of an hour. Well... not really. Very rarely will you see packs rated past 25-30C stand up to such claims. but... for our intents and purposes, a pack capable of 40+ amps continuously will do the job. So, starting point 2200mah 20C 2 cell is enough, bigger is better to a point. I get 10-12 minutes of agressive driving out of the 2200mah 20c zippy's and at 8.79 a piece you can afford to buy more than one to extend the fun. (pack changes are quick and easy on this car, you don't even have to take the body off)

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...00mAh_2S1P_20C

out of stock unfortunately, the price has dropped considerably since my last visit, that's insanely cheap! Looks like you're getting into the hobby at the right moment my friend. I cringe when I think about how much I spent on batteries over the last 5 years for my cars, planes, helis, boats etc..

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

alternatively this looks about perfect;

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store..._30C_Lipo_Pack

Khar00f

Does any1 have the measurements of the battery compartement?

in the manual I found online for the chassis on tamiya's website, doesn't have measurements.

Thanks fellas,

and aflipz, thank you very much for the information, you've been very helpfull so far.

Ifound these while browsing on the site

hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp <span class="headingb">ZIPPY Flightmax 4400mAh 3S1P 15C (21,20$)

they're 3S but 15C wouldn't that solve the heating issue since it outputs less?</span>

hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp <span class="headingb">Turnigy 3600mAh 2S 30C Lipo Pack (19.79$)

and from what you're explaining (i'm not too good with electricity) would more Discharge capacity = engine run faster = faster car?
</span>

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

The battery tray is (approximately)

145MM long (it's a bit longer but there's some of that space used for the hinge pin that holds the door in, you'll understand when you see it. basically a bit shorter than 145mm would be preferable, wouldn't really risk buying one longer than 140-143 myself)

50MM wide (but again I'd leave a few MM maybe 5, to clear wires, any bulge the wires sticking out the side of the pack and so forth)

roughly 27MM deep. Doubt that part would be problematic with any 2 cell pack.

More battery nomenclature;

*S*P means the number of cells in a pack and how they are laid out, first number is the number of cells in series (multiply this number by 3.7 to know the nominal voltage of the pack) and the second is the number of cells in parallel. (usually 1P, packs for cars that are composed of cells in series + cells in parallel are rather rare but they do exist)

ex: a 3S2P comprised of 2000mah cells would be 11.1v and have a capacity of 4000mah, it would take 4 cells to build such a pack, and if these cells were rated 20C you would have a pack capable of 80 amp discharge.

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

oh... yeah the turnigy 3600 looks as perfect as it gets but I think the 4400 might be a bit more challenging because its said to be 140mm long and 49mm wide leaving only 1mm for wires on the side which means you might have to cut away some of the side of the battery tray, but I'm sure a bit of dremmel work is your worse case scenario to shoehorn it in.



More capacity would translate in longer run times, not really faster; maybe a tiny bit over another well chosen pack as the bigger a pack and the higher it's "C" rating the more voltage it retains under load. But you're not likely to feel the difference at all between that 3600 and the 4400.

You will probably feel the 108 gram difference between the two more than the retained voltage if it even exists at these loads for such large packs. Oh wait... You tricked me! I'm comparing a 3s 4400mah pack with a 2s 3600mah pack no wonder there's such a huge weight difference!

be careful when ordering, unless you want a 11.1v pack make sure you select a 2S1P

Khar00f

man i'm really getting lost in them battery stuff

ok i'm gonna try and simplify my questions so i can understand better (it's not your explaining it's really my head that's not focusing properly)

what are the consequences of these scenarios and can they run on stock taking as examples the two packs pasted above (let's assume pack size is not an issue)

Minimum Capacity: 3600mAh
Configuration: 2S1P / 7.4v / 2Cell
Constant Discharge: 30C
Peak Discharge (10sec): 40C

VS

Capacity: 4400mAh
Voltage: 3S1P /3 Cell / 11.1v
Discharge: 15C Constant / 20-22C Burst

15C vs 30C?
11.1V vs 7.4V?


i went back and re-read the post about S and C

so I did the math as you said with said packs

Your recommended pack = 3.6A @ 30C = so yours discharges at 108A

the pack i chose = 4.4A @ 15C = 66A

So in conclusion, mine would last longer but yours will go faster?

and if i want to run 11.1V pack, what other parts need to be modified for this pack to work?


and what about this motor/ESC, we didn't really touch on that, what should i look for in a motor regarding specs, and what's the size that fits the DF03 Ra chassis
Found this but dunno if it's good
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp

CWHFSR

Of those two your best bet will be the top one. I'm not even sure if a 3c4400 would even fit. I personally wouldn't go with anything less than a 20c, but I try for 25-30c batteries myself.

30c > 15c Think of when you start from a dead stop and you squeeze the throttle for max excelleration. The battery is going to be asked to put out a lot of energy. With two equal batteries (both 2 cell, both 4000mah) you will get the same draw (or pull of that energy). The 30c can handle it better. Think of it this way with car batteries. Each car battery has a cold cranging amps measurements. You wouldn't put a battery made for a Chevy Geo into a Ford F350...

11.1 and 7.4 ... 11.1 is 3 cell (you will go faster)

As long as the speed controller can handle 3 cells then you should be fine. I run both 2 cell and 3 cell batteries in my car with the stock stuff.