Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 Brotherhood.
#1726
My Feedback: (5)
maekju,
I'm one of those paranoid people and have three CG Ultimate kits collected over the last ten years. One of them is the newer laser cut version. I got them in case I need repairs but I never totaly destroyed mine yet, it's being rebuild. And i have a framed spare sitting there just in case. I wonder if it's better to just completely destroy it that way you build a new one other wise you get attached to it and keep repairing it.
As a note I got a member in my club involved in building and he quite enjoys it. So I told him if he builds the ultimate he can have one of my spares. :-)
I'm one of those paranoid people and have three CG Ultimate kits collected over the last ten years. One of them is the newer laser cut version. I got them in case I need repairs but I never totaly destroyed mine yet, it's being rebuild. And i have a framed spare sitting there just in case. I wonder if it's better to just completely destroy it that way you build a new one other wise you get attached to it and keep repairing it.
As a note I got a member in my club involved in building and he quite enjoys it. So I told him if he builds the ultimate he can have one of my spares. :-)
#1728
peternj,
I bought mine around 1993, don't know if they were doing the laser cut kits or not. I bought my second one last year cause my first one developed a serious flutter problem. The whole aircraft flutters, never seen anything like it. I've gone through a lot to eliminate the flutter but haven't solved it yet. Glad I did buy the second one cause the first one's vertical stab was damaged during our move to NC last month. I really love that plane it's my favorite but don't think I'll buy another one. I'm going to repair my first one and the second one will be a gasser. I have a YS 120 on the first one and I think the soft mount might the flutter problem. If I need another one I'll build it from plans. I really didn't take a good look to see if the second one is a laser cut kit. Gotta do that when I get home.
maekju,
I bought mine around 1993, don't know if they were doing the laser cut kits or not. I bought my second one last year cause my first one developed a serious flutter problem. The whole aircraft flutters, never seen anything like it. I've gone through a lot to eliminate the flutter but haven't solved it yet. Glad I did buy the second one cause the first one's vertical stab was damaged during our move to NC last month. I really love that plane it's my favorite but don't think I'll buy another one. I'm going to repair my first one and the second one will be a gasser. I have a YS 120 on the first one and I think the soft mount might the flutter problem. If I need another one I'll build it from plans. I really didn't take a good look to see if the second one is a laser cut kit. Gotta do that when I get home.
maekju,
#1731
My Feedback: (6)
The only other way I know of is to use a pull pull elevator. If you look on the site here you can find information on how to do it, but it helps if you had it planned out during the build. I personally have never used a pull pull elevator, but should work really well.
PS here is a link: http://www.qmfc.org/school/ackerman.htm
Last edited by mustangherb; 08-10-2015 at 07:12 PM.
#1732
My Feedback: (5)
abott915,
pull pull elevators would require four wires, seems like a lot of work but a good system. I have two recommendations:
1) using the MK Dual Elevator coupler http://www.gator-rc.com/mk-bb-dual-c...crank-l-mk1251
2) use two push rods in guide tubes and couple them with wheel collars. The Dirty Birdy ARF manual shows this set up .... here's a link to another one in RV4 build just scroll down ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634239 )
I also saw an aluminum piece with three holes and set screws. In my pattern planes I have used the dual elevator bell crank but I like option 2 because of its simplicity. Just have to be sure to glue in your guide tubes and have them meet in the center. If you are doing a pull pull rudder then just offset the servos one higher one lower and you're golden.
pull pull elevators would require four wires, seems like a lot of work but a good system. I have two recommendations:
1) using the MK Dual Elevator coupler http://www.gator-rc.com/mk-bb-dual-c...crank-l-mk1251
2) use two push rods in guide tubes and couple them with wheel collars. The Dirty Birdy ARF manual shows this set up .... here's a link to another one in RV4 build just scroll down ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634239 )
I also saw an aluminum piece with three holes and set screws. In my pattern planes I have used the dual elevator bell crank but I like option 2 because of its simplicity. Just have to be sure to glue in your guide tubes and have them meet in the center. If you are doing a pull pull rudder then just offset the servos one higher one lower and you're golden.
#1733
My Feedback: (4)
abbott915,
The only other way I know of is to use a pull pull elevator. If you look on the site here you can find information on how to do it, but it helps if you had it planned out during the build. I personally have never used a pull pull elevator, but should work really well.
PS here is a link: http://www.qmfc.org/school/ackerman.htm
The only other way I know of is to use a pull pull elevator. If you look on the site here you can find information on how to do it, but it helps if you had it planned out during the build. I personally have never used a pull pull elevator, but should work really well.
PS here is a link: http://www.qmfc.org/school/ackerman.htm
The hardest part is getting the cable exits in the right place.
#1734
My Feedback: (4)
abott915,
pull pull elevators would require four wires, seems like a lot of work but a good system. I have two recommendations:
1) using the MK Dual Elevator coupler http://www.gator-rc.com/mk-bb-dual-c...crank-l-mk1251
2) use two push rods in guide tubes and couple them with wheel collars. The Dirty Birdy ARF manual shows this set up .... here's a link to another one in RV4 build just scroll down ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634239 )
I also saw an aluminum piece with three holes and set screws. In my pattern planes I have used the dual elevator bell crank but I like option 2 because of its simplicity. Just have to be sure to glue in your guide tubes and have them meet in the center. If you are doing a pull pull rudder then just offset the servos one higher one lower and you're golden.
pull pull elevators would require four wires, seems like a lot of work but a good system. I have two recommendations:
1) using the MK Dual Elevator coupler http://www.gator-rc.com/mk-bb-dual-c...crank-l-mk1251
2) use two push rods in guide tubes and couple them with wheel collars. The Dirty Birdy ARF manual shows this set up .... here's a link to another one in RV4 build just scroll down ( http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=634239 )
I also saw an aluminum piece with three holes and set screws. In my pattern planes I have used the dual elevator bell crank but I like option 2 because of its simplicity. Just have to be sure to glue in your guide tubes and have them meet in the center. If you are doing a pull pull rudder then just offset the servos one higher one lower and you're golden.
It's interesting that alot of people use pull/pull on rudder for the obvious benefits, but not when it comes to the elevators. Can't work that one out.
#1735
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: gig harbor,
WA
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Thanks everyone for the responses, and a pull pull on an elevator is an interesting idea, but the issue I see is that the elevators are not connected so a pull pull would have to have four wires? Maybe I'm missing something, and a quick "google" of it this morning didn't help.
After posting the question, I realized I had one other plane to look at, a GP Extra 300. It used the pushrods in a guide tube, and I liked that setup.
I wasn't so keen on the original set up in the 10-300, as it seemed to be a bit sloppy, but maybe that was just my first build and it wasn't done correctly.
In any event, again, thank you all for your responses!!
After posting the question, I realized I had one other plane to look at, a GP Extra 300. It used the pushrods in a guide tube, and I liked that setup.
I wasn't so keen on the original set up in the 10-300, as it seemed to be a bit sloppy, but maybe that was just my first build and it wasn't done correctly.
In any event, again, thank you all for your responses!!
#1736
My Feedback: (4)
Thanks everyone for the responses, and a pull pull on an elevator is an interesting idea, but the issue I see is that the elevators are not connected so a pull pull would have to have four wires? Maybe I'm missing something, and a quick "google" of it this morning didn't help.
After posting the question, I realized I had one other plane to look at, a GP Extra 300. It used the pushrods in a guide tube, and I liked that setup.
I wasn't so keen on the original set up in the 10-300, as it seemed to be a bit sloppy, but maybe that was just my first build and it wasn't done correctly.
In any event, again, thank you all for your responses!!
After posting the question, I realized I had one other plane to look at, a GP Extra 300. It used the pushrods in a guide tube, and I liked that setup.
I wasn't so keen on the original set up in the 10-300, as it seemed to be a bit sloppy, but maybe that was just my first build and it wasn't done correctly.
In any event, again, thank you all for your responses!!
#1737
My Feedback: (5)
abbott,
the original setup on the ultimate with a single push rod and a "Y" at the end works great. The key is to build up a support at either end of the push rod so no slop is introduced.
The pull pull on split elevators isn't an issue either. You just have to center your elevator horn in the fuselage so that it moves equally and the servo is on its side, that is the horn of the servo is perpendicular to the elevator. this not only makes attaching of the wires easier but ensures proper geometry.
peter
the original setup on the ultimate with a single push rod and a "Y" at the end works great. The key is to build up a support at either end of the push rod so no slop is introduced.
The pull pull on split elevators isn't an issue either. You just have to center your elevator horn in the fuselage so that it moves equally and the servo is on its side, that is the horn of the servo is perpendicular to the elevator. this not only makes attaching of the wires easier but ensures proper geometry.
peter
#1738
My Feedback: (4)
abbott,
the original setup on the ultimate with a single push rod and a "Y" at the end works great. The key is to build up a support at either end of the push rod so no slop is introduced.
The pull pull on split elevators isn't an issue either. You just have to center your elevator horn in the fuselage so that it moves equally and the servo is on its side, that is the horn of the servo is perpendicular to the elevator. this not only makes attaching of the wires easier but ensures proper geometry.
peter
the original setup on the ultimate with a single push rod and a "Y" at the end works great. The key is to build up a support at either end of the push rod so no slop is introduced.
The pull pull on split elevators isn't an issue either. You just have to center your elevator horn in the fuselage so that it moves equally and the servo is on its side, that is the horn of the servo is perpendicular to the elevator. this not only makes attaching of the wires easier but ensures proper geometry.
peter
#1740
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: perthWA, AUSTRALIA
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Hello Peter, could you please email me the plans file. I have the kit but not the plans, cheers.
[email protected]
[email protected]
#1741
Hello, folks
I'm joining the club
Just got a goldberg bipe with Saito 1.20 from a colleague.
The model is in good shape (no crash) - just needs some refresh (it's standard blue, but I'm thinking about re-covering it, since it has quite a few repair patches).
Any change to get the plans too? All I've got is mode+engine (and just downloaded the manual from the website).
my email is: [email protected]
Thanks in advance!
I'm joining the club
Just got a goldberg bipe with Saito 1.20 from a colleague.
The model is in good shape (no crash) - just needs some refresh (it's standard blue, but I'm thinking about re-covering it, since it has quite a few repair patches).
Any change to get the plans too? All I've got is mode+engine (and just downloaded the manual from the website).
my email is: [email protected]
Thanks in advance!
#1744
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Talamanca de JaramaMadrid, SPAIN
Posts: 583
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Marek, as you are joining the club you may take number #110 and remember that if you include your Brotherhood number at your RCUniverse firm it will shown below of your messages from now on.
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#1745
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Talamanca de JaramaMadrid, SPAIN
Posts: 583
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Regarding flying the Ultimate, I have the OS 120 AX fully running in and the model flying although experienced some troubles finally related to degradated Modeltechnics Duraglo can which made the engine to quit and which I initially solved changing the original OS 8 plug to a ENYA n.3.
Finally, this last weekend it proved impossible to even start the engine so I switched fuel to a very old Modeltechnics DF 10% can I had and engine run beatifully allowing me 2 flights before winds grew up too strong.
Now I have the model at the club hangar and hope to try different propellers as I think APC 16x6 currently in use is a bit small on diameter and pitch and here I am open to suggestions from you as which I look for is for a good climbing power while a not too fast plane when flying horizontal.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions and Best Regards.
Finally, this last weekend it proved impossible to even start the engine so I switched fuel to a very old Modeltechnics DF 10% can I had and engine run beatifully allowing me 2 flights before winds grew up too strong.
Now I have the model at the club hangar and hope to try different propellers as I think APC 16x6 currently in use is a bit small on diameter and pitch and here I am open to suggestions from you as which I look for is for a good climbing power while a not too fast plane when flying horizontal.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions and Best Regards.
Last edited by jescardin; 09-16-2015 at 12:26 AM.
#1746
This is my Ultimate after de-dusting and putting together for a "test fit".
In mean time, I've installed servos in the fuselage, then modified the servo hatches in the wings (previous owner had some smaller servos - 32mm long, where standard ones are usually ab. 40).
Now, all the servos are installed and working.
I've noticed, that the wing pushrods are installed at the bottom side of the wings, not upper side as per manual.
Still - I need to repair covering in few places, as there are some falling-off spots.
Ayway - will re-do the covering after I fly it for some time as I, simply, just don't like the blue scheme.
In mean time, I've installed servos in the fuselage, then modified the servo hatches in the wings (previous owner had some smaller servos - 32mm long, where standard ones are usually ab. 40).
Now, all the servos are installed and working.
I've noticed, that the wing pushrods are installed at the bottom side of the wings, not upper side as per manual.
Still - I need to repair covering in few places, as there are some falling-off spots.
Ayway - will re-do the covering after I fly it for some time as I, simply, just don't like the blue scheme.
#1747
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Talamanca de JaramaMadrid, SPAIN
Posts: 583
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Prety Marek.
Just one question: why did you mounted the engine inverted?. My Ultimate, which is the ARTF version, has the engine side mounted so giving better access and less prone to plug getting wet during idle.
Best Regards
Just one question: why did you mounted the engine inverted?. My Ultimate, which is the ARTF version, has the engine side mounted so giving better access and less prone to plug getting wet during idle.
Best Regards
Last edited by jescardin; 09-16-2015 at 12:27 AM.
#1748
As I've mentioned earlier, I've got this model from a colleague.
No idea, why he did install the engine like that.
The only reason, that comes to my mind is that there's a tuned pipe installed and perhaps, that was easier to do with the engine inverted.
Anyway, I might think about rotating the engine after I fly it a bit.
Now, I just want to make it ready for flight. Basically, have to put the battery, receiver, repair covering in few spots (its falling off) and balance it, since all the rest is done.
No idea, why he did install the engine like that.
The only reason, that comes to my mind is that there's a tuned pipe installed and perhaps, that was easier to do with the engine inverted.
Anyway, I might think about rotating the engine after I fly it a bit.
Now, I just want to make it ready for flight. Basically, have to put the battery, receiver, repair covering in few spots (its falling off) and balance it, since all the rest is done.
#1749
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: gig harbor,
WA
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I have posted info on how I installed the battery box in my 10-300 GP - EP conversion at the following link. Working remotely, so hopefully the link below works.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...300-build.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...300-build.html
#1750
Hey everybody,
I'm not a member of the Goldberg Ultimate Brotherhood, but would like to be a part / member. How does that happen?
Second, I purchased an GB Ultimate kit years ago (for cheap) on Ebay. Hadn't got it out of the box until Merik (member #110) posted a request for plans. Glad to see you got a copy Meric. Strangely, when I pulled the plans to help Merik, I decided it was time to inventory the kit, decide if enough was there and build it. There's some wood missing (no problem), no canopy or wheel pants(again, no problem), but the landing gears are missing, There's not enough info on the plans to make or have a set made. I'm hoping some one has a set not yet installed and is willing to take some measurements for me to get a set made. If so, when you reply I'll attach a form TNT Landing gear uses to make a set from, forward it to you to fill in the blanks, and send it back and I can have them made.
Thanks for reading and replying,
Got2retre (Tom)
I'm not a member of the Goldberg Ultimate Brotherhood, but would like to be a part / member. How does that happen?
Second, I purchased an GB Ultimate kit years ago (for cheap) on Ebay. Hadn't got it out of the box until Merik (member #110) posted a request for plans. Glad to see you got a copy Meric. Strangely, when I pulled the plans to help Merik, I decided it was time to inventory the kit, decide if enough was there and build it. There's some wood missing (no problem), no canopy or wheel pants(again, no problem), but the landing gears are missing, There's not enough info on the plans to make or have a set made. I'm hoping some one has a set not yet installed and is willing to take some measurements for me to get a set made. If so, when you reply I'll attach a form TNT Landing gear uses to make a set from, forward it to you to fill in the blanks, and send it back and I can have them made.
Thanks for reading and replying,
Got2retre (Tom)