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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
Jim, I have stumbled on to a small puzzle. Yesterday I ran my little Saito .40a with a Graupner 10.5x6 and WildCat 2/4 15% all synthetic lube. Now, the skinny they have at Horizon suggest a 10x4 and 10,500 rpm. Mine turns the 10.5x6 at 10,250, it seems to me the 10x4 would be a complete waste of the engine.
Jim, I have stumbled on to a small puzzle. Yesterday I ran my little Saito .40a with a Graupner 10.5x6 and WildCat 2/4 15% all synthetic lube. Now, the skinny they have at Horizon suggest a 10x4 and 10,500 rpm. Mine turns the 10.5x6 at 10,250, it seems to me the 10x4 would be a complete waste of the engine.
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ORIGINAL: Go Pens
Need help.
Just bought a Fa-65 Saito for a member on RC Universe and I am have trouble keeping it running. Glow plug looks ok and I have adjusted the high speed needle valve to what I think is a good mixture but having trouble with the slow speed adj. This is my first 4 s and I am using 10% nitro with 18% lub. Like I said the engine will start and run but after a min or two will stop when I move the throtle.
Thanks for any help.
Need help.
Just bought a Fa-65 Saito for a member on RC Universe and I am have trouble keeping it running. Glow plug looks ok and I have adjusted the high speed needle valve to what I think is a good mixture but having trouble with the slow speed adj. This is my first 4 s and I am using 10% nitro with 18% lub. Like I said the engine will start and run but after a min or two will stop when I move the throtle.
Thanks for any help.
four stroke engines tend to start doing funky things when the valve gaps close up towards a zero gap or worse.
Dying at idle is one symptom.
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ORIGINAL: w8ye
When it came out it was called the 125a.
They are into later models now? However, even though they are into at least the ''B'' production sequence, in the ads, they still call it the 125a
Last year tihis time I worked on a 125a that had the latter style cylinder on it.
When it came out it was called the 125a.
They are into later models now? However, even though they are into at least the ''B'' production sequence, in the ads, they still call it the 125a
Last year tihis time I worked on a 125a that had the latter style cylinder on it.
Any thoughts? I can't find any references to a 125 "B" or "C" anywhere on the web..... But you guys are more in the know than the general public.
Bob
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I have a Saito .91 on a Pulse 60 turning a 14x6 APC prop. Can someone suggest an aluminum spinner for this combination? I have never owned a metal spinner but this engine shredded the plastic one that came with the model. What size/brand do you recommend?
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The minimum size spinner for this size engine usually amounts to being a 2 1/2"
I usually buy the Dave Brown brand from Tower Hobbies after shopping around.
I usually buy the Dave Brown brand from Tower Hobbies after shopping around.
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Been reading the Saito gas thread and back (way back) through some of these threads and either I am imagining it or do I detect a lack of understanding on the part of some people as to the requirement to run in "gently" these engines. By that I mean both the glo and gas engines.
When I visited Saito many years ago (station engineer for MAS at the time, only for a short time) I was told by the engineers that new engines should be run as rich as possible during the "break in period" and "the engine would tell you when to begin the leaning out process". This usually took about 2 hours of running to achieve the desired 2 turns out on the high speed needle. For the record I used props in the mid range of the suggested sizes for the relative engine.
In my case I would bench run the engine for between 30 minutes and 1 hour (depending on the weather) and then get airborne time on the engine always ensuring that there was a trail of smoke during this period. Sure I cribbed some times but that was the broad procedure and I have never yet had a failure. When I develop the required amount of intestinal fortitude I will apply the same process to the gas engines and report back.
Until then I would appreciate comments on the above, should any one be interested
When I visited Saito many years ago (station engineer for MAS at the time, only for a short time) I was told by the engineers that new engines should be run as rich as possible during the "break in period" and "the engine would tell you when to begin the leaning out process". This usually took about 2 hours of running to achieve the desired 2 turns out on the high speed needle. For the record I used props in the mid range of the suggested sizes for the relative engine.
In my case I would bench run the engine for between 30 minutes and 1 hour (depending on the weather) and then get airborne time on the engine always ensuring that there was a trail of smoke during this period. Sure I cribbed some times but that was the broad procedure and I have never yet had a failure. When I develop the required amount of intestinal fortitude I will apply the same process to the gas engines and report back.
Until then I would appreciate comments on the above, should any one be interested
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Happy new year craig and all,yes the doubled over cellophane works great for valve clearances.Your physio must be the kind of guys that threw christians to the lions way back when.
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ORIGINAL: FNQFLYER
Been reading the Saito gas thread and back (way back) through some of these threads and either I am imagining it or do I detect a lack of understanding on the part of some people as to the requirement to run in "gently" these engines. By that I mean both the glo and gas engines.
When I visited Saito many years ago (station engineer for MAS at the time, only for a short time) I was told by the engineers that new engines should be run as rich as possible during the "break in period" and "the engine would tell you when to begin the leaning out process". This usually took about 2 hours of running to achieve the desired 2 turns out on the high speed needle. For the record I used props in the mid range of the suggested sizes for the relative engine.
In my case I would bench run the engine for between 30 minutes and 1 hour (depending on the weather) and then get airborne time on the engine always ensuring that there was a trail of smoke during this period. Sure I cribbed some times but that was the broad procedure and I have never yet had a failure. When I develop the required amount of intestinal fortitude I will apply the same process to the gas engines and report back.
Until then I would appreciate comments on the above, should any one be interested
Been reading the Saito gas thread and back (way back) through some of these threads and either I am imagining it or do I detect a lack of understanding on the part of some people as to the requirement to run in "gently" these engines. By that I mean both the glo and gas engines.
When I visited Saito many years ago (station engineer for MAS at the time, only for a short time) I was told by the engineers that new engines should be run as rich as possible during the "break in period" and "the engine would tell you when to begin the leaning out process". This usually took about 2 hours of running to achieve the desired 2 turns out on the high speed needle. For the record I used props in the mid range of the suggested sizes for the relative engine.
In my case I would bench run the engine for between 30 minutes and 1 hour (depending on the weather) and then get airborne time on the engine always ensuring that there was a trail of smoke during this period. Sure I cribbed some times but that was the broad procedure and I have never yet had a failure. When I develop the required amount of intestinal fortitude I will apply the same process to the gas engines and report back.
Until then I would appreciate comments on the above, should any one be interested
The bigger the Saito, the longer it takes to get it broken in. A Saito 180 may not truely free up for 6 hours running? The 180 burns 55 cc/ min (1.86 oz) even when leaned out.
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Hi all, Have a FA60T & was wondering if it might be enuf engine for a Sig Smith Mini Plane. Know everyone suggest a Cub, but already have one of them with an OS40FP diesel conversion. Don't need "unlimted verticle", but would like a good flyer with at least "average" aerobatics. Many Thanx for your thoughts
T-man49 in Alabama
T-man49 in Alabama
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ORIGINAL: triumphman49
Hi all, Have a FA60T & was wondering if it might be enuf engine for a Sig Smith Mini Plane. Know everyone suggest a Cub, but already have one of them with an OS40FP diesel conversion. Don't need ''unlimted verticle'', but would like a good flyer with at least ''average'' aerobatics. Many Thanx for your thoughts
T-man49 in Alabama
Hi all, Have a FA60T & was wondering if it might be enuf engine for a Sig Smith Mini Plane. Know everyone suggest a Cub, but already have one of them with an OS40FP diesel conversion. Don't need ''unlimted verticle'', but would like a good flyer with at least ''average'' aerobatics. Many Thanx for your thoughts
T-man49 in Alabama
John
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Re running in, yes I agree air time is the best time and as I said most of my engines get airborne some time between 30 minutes and 60 minutes of engine depends on the engine, and they do then last well.
On competition engines they are "run in " after blue printing (which is why I usually buy 2 of any type when I get a new type engine (that is say I have purchased a 56 for the first time for competition, I bought 2 plus extra crank, rod and piston) and if the first one works the other gets put away for 'a rainy day"
On competition engines they are "run in " after blue printing (which is why I usually buy 2 of any type when I get a new type engine (that is say I have purchased a 56 for the first time for competition, I bought 2 plus extra crank, rod and piston) and if the first one works the other gets put away for 'a rainy day"
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Well I've looked almost everywhere to find an answer...I purchased a Saito 50 to put in a LT-40...the motor is slightly used...it is missing a valve cover bolt...does anyone know where I can get one? This makes my second Saito in my hanger the other one is a 91 on a PT-22 (Ryan STA) so make me a member...lol
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ORIGINAL: dalemilam58
Well I've looked almost everywhere to find an answer...I purchased a Saito 50 to put in a LT-40...the motor is slightly used...it is missing a valve cover bolt...does anyone know where I can get one? This makes my second Saito in my hanger the other one is a 91 on a PT-22 (Ryan STA) so make me a member...lol
Well I've looked almost everywhere to find an answer...I purchased a Saito 50 to put in a LT-40...the motor is slightly used...it is missing a valve cover bolt...does anyone know where I can get one? This makes my second Saito in my hanger the other one is a 91 on a PT-22 (Ryan STA) so make me a member...lol
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ORIGINAL: dalemilam58
Well I've looked almost everywhere to find an answer...I purchased a Saito 50 to put in a LT-40...the motor is slightly used...it is missing a valve cover bolt...does anyone know where I can get one? This makes my second Saito in my hanger the other one is a 91 on a PT-22 (Ryan STA) so make me a member...lol
Well I've looked almost everywhere to find an answer...I purchased a Saito 50 to put in a LT-40...the motor is slightly used...it is missing a valve cover bolt...does anyone know where I can get one? This makes my second Saito in my hanger the other one is a 91 on a PT-22 (Ryan STA) so make me a member...lol
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ORIGINAL: dalemilam58
Well I've looked almost everywhere to find an answer...I purchased a Saito 50 to put in a LT-40...the motor is slightly used...it is missing a valve cover bolt...does anyone know where I can get one? This makes my second Saito in my hanger the other one is a 91 on a PT-22 (Ryan STA) so make me a member...lol
Well I've looked almost everywhere to find an answer...I purchased a Saito 50 to put in a LT-40...the motor is slightly used...it is missing a valve cover bolt...does anyone know where I can get one? This makes my second Saito in my hanger the other one is a 91 on a PT-22 (Ryan STA) so make me a member...lol
Of course if you only have the small LHS's then that is a problem.
I looked at one of my old Saitos and the valve cover screws look like 2.5mm screws.
It is the four long screws in this pic of the cylinder screw set on the Horizon website:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SAI5014
![](http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/SAI/250/SAI5014-250.jpg)
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Go to your local bolt/fastener supplier and ask for a cap head screw 2.5mm x .45mm x 15mm.It is a standard size.They would retail for about 15 cents au each.
Happy New Year to you as well Old Fart,Nah,the physio aint that bad,he just wants to get the shoulder working good again,dont want no "frozen shoulder" as they call it.
Happy New Year to you as well Old Fart,Nah,the physio aint that bad,he just wants to get the shoulder working good again,dont want no "frozen shoulder" as they call it.
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I just got done replacing the bearings in my old Saito 80 engine. last weekend, it sort of had a noticeable whine to it when running. With my bad hearing, if I can hear it, it must have woke up all the cats and dogs in the area. I had purchasd this engine way back around 1990 and have been using it ever since. I am sorta surprised that the bearings lasted this long considering how many people seem to have bearing issues with any engine, not just Saito.
The rear bearing wasn't too bad, although seemingly smooth it was making a loud rolling kind of noise when you spun it. The front bearing was shot, a little rough and noisy, I think there was no lube inside anymore. i haven't had time to bench run it yet to make sure I got the camshaft timing correct or not. When I went to remove the bearings, the crankshaft came out but the bearings stayed in, which was a worrying thing. But a little judicious useage of a brass rod and a small hammer with the crankcase heated up got them out. I cleaned off the brown gunk where the main bearing would go, as the new bearing wouldn't fit otherwise. it is that small section about 1/4 inch wide in between the crank journal and the camshaft gear teeth. The new bearings and crankshaft slipped back in Ok, no problems.
I use a Hakko hot air gun, intended for heat shrink tubing, to heat up the engine crankcase with. That way I can work indoors. Using a propane torch indoors is a bit too risky.
![](http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg171/earlwbollinger/Old%20and%20Vintage%20Engines/Saito%20Engines/Saito_80_bearings_01.jpg)
The rear bearing wasn't too bad, although seemingly smooth it was making a loud rolling kind of noise when you spun it. The front bearing was shot, a little rough and noisy, I think there was no lube inside anymore. i haven't had time to bench run it yet to make sure I got the camshaft timing correct or not. When I went to remove the bearings, the crankshaft came out but the bearings stayed in, which was a worrying thing. But a little judicious useage of a brass rod and a small hammer with the crankcase heated up got them out. I cleaned off the brown gunk where the main bearing would go, as the new bearing wouldn't fit otherwise. it is that small section about 1/4 inch wide in between the crank journal and the camshaft gear teeth. The new bearings and crankshaft slipped back in Ok, no problems.
I use a Hakko hot air gun, intended for heat shrink tubing, to heat up the engine crankcase with. That way I can work indoors. Using a propane torch indoors is a bit too risky.
![](http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg171/earlwbollinger/Old%20and%20Vintage%20Engines/Saito%20Engines/Saito_80_bearings_01.jpg)