AR-6 Construction Thread
#176
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RE: AR-6 Construction Thread
The edges of the trim were wet sanded for smooth edges.
The wing was then dried and cleaned prior to painting.
Here is the clear coated wing.
The wing was then dried and cleaned prior to painting.
Here is the clear coated wing.
#177
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RE: AR-6 Construction Thread
Scott, I'm curious about your use of peel ply as a hinge. i do realize there are dozens of peel ply products out there, some being treated with release and some not. It however still leaves a question in my mind as to how the hinge holds up in the long run? Everytime I use peel ply it seperates from the fiberglass laminate rather easily and that is exactly why I use it as a release barrier between breather and laminate when I vacuum bag. Is there something special about what you use as I would like to try this hinging method.
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RE: AR-6 Construction Thread
I'm using a generic shinny nylon fabric for the hinge. It just happens to be the same fabric being used as peel ply.
I did place a thin layer of finishing epoxy down first before adding the fabric. Then follow with 1.6 ounce fiberglass cloth.
The stuff that sticks the best is fiberglass cloth, but the issue is that fiberglass tends to crack and eventually fail.
Only time will tell what works best.
I did place a thin layer of finishing epoxy down first before adding the fabric. Then follow with 1.6 ounce fiberglass cloth.
The stuff that sticks the best is fiberglass cloth, but the issue is that fiberglass tends to crack and eventually fail.
Only time will tell what works best.
#180
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RE: AR-6 Construction Thread
What was that Mom? Don't procrastinate and get it done sooner! [&:]
It's all coming together, but it always seems to be a push to get things done.
It's all coming together, but it always seems to be a push to get things done.
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RE: AR-6 Construction Thread
I do hinges very similar to Scott.
The layer in contact with the wood surface is
peel ply. Then a layer of 3.2 oz fiberglass on the
bias (45 degree orientation of the fibers). Then a
layer of 3/4 oz cloth for the finish layer. The light
cloth is mainly used because it is much easier to fill
the weave, for painting, than the heavier 3.2 oz. For
the peel ply itself, I use nylon dress lining from a fabric
store - try explaining to the ladies at the fabric store
what you are using it for!!! It is the same material that
I use for an actual peel ply when vacuum bagging fiberglass
materials, it releases just fine. I've never had a problem
with it wanting to let go when used for a hinge material.
Guess that having it on the inside and encapsulated by
the other materials holds it down just fine.
brad
The layer in contact with the wood surface is
peel ply. Then a layer of 3.2 oz fiberglass on the
bias (45 degree orientation of the fibers). Then a
layer of 3/4 oz cloth for the finish layer. The light
cloth is mainly used because it is much easier to fill
the weave, for painting, than the heavier 3.2 oz. For
the peel ply itself, I use nylon dress lining from a fabric
store - try explaining to the ladies at the fabric store
what you are using it for!!! It is the same material that
I use for an actual peel ply when vacuum bagging fiberglass
materials, it releases just fine. I've never had a problem
with it wanting to let go when used for a hinge material.
Guess that having it on the inside and encapsulated by
the other materials holds it down just fine.
brad
#184
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AR-6 Construction Thread
I've been framing up a replacement model for one I left in Phoenix.
This one has a built-up vertical stabilizer that is about 3/4" taller.
Here are some recent pictures:
This one has a built-up vertical stabilizer that is about 3/4" taller.
Here are some recent pictures:
#186
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AR-6 Construction Thread
Lightly sand the surface of the model with 220 grit sandpaper and dust off the surface.
I tried something different. I followed with a light coat of rattle can primer on the surface of the model.
Dupli-Color light gray primer was used.
I tried something different. I followed with a light coat of rattle can primer on the surface of the model.
Dupli-Color light gray primer was used.
#187
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In a few minutes the primer is dry.
I then applied a thin layer of lightweight spackle to the surface of the model.
You can rub it on with your hands or spread it on with a squeegee.
I then applied a thin layer of lightweight spackle to the surface of the model.
You can rub it on with your hands or spread it on with a squeegee.
#188
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In a few hours the spackle is dry enough to sand.
I followed with 220 grit sandpaper and sanded as needed until smooth.
If the surface is not filled apply another coat of spackle and continue as needed.
I followed with 220 grit sandpaper and sanded as needed until smooth.
If the surface is not filled apply another coat of spackle and continue as needed.
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Once the surface is filled, I followed with a coat of white primer (KlassKote).
I mixed about 6 ounce of primer and waited about 30 minutes before adding thinner.
An equal volume of thinner was later mixed into the primer. Pore the mix though a paint filter into the gun.
Spray on several light coats until the surface is coated.
Set the model out of the way to dry.
I mixed about 6 ounce of primer and waited about 30 minutes before adding thinner.
An equal volume of thinner was later mixed into the primer. Pore the mix though a paint filter into the gun.
Spray on several light coats until the surface is coated.
Set the model out of the way to dry.
#191
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AR-6 Construction Thread
About 4 ounce of acrylic enamel paint was mixed. About 2 ounces of reducer was added and the mix was filtered with a paint filter.
A light coat of paint was applied and later several more. The model was set out of the way to dry.
A light coat of paint was applied and later several more. The model was set out of the way to dry.
#193
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It seems that everyone is using white. White is easy to trim, but I can't keep track of my model when all the racers are the same.
#195
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AR-6 Construction Thread
Gloss black Krylon spray paint was first applied lightly.
Then follow with several more light coats to cover.
In a few minutes the paint is dry enough to remove the masking tape and stencils.
Here is what it looks like after applying the color but before applying clear coat.
Then follow with several more light coats to cover.
In a few minutes the paint is dry enough to remove the masking tape and stencils.
Here is what it looks like after applying the color but before applying clear coat.
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