danrc2

well i started mine yesterday with hinging the flaps on the in board wing panel. today i started with the left wing panel. i got the engine retract servo and everything else that goes with that one nacelle. let me tell anyone that didnt start yet take your time, i worked on just that one for about 4 to 5 hours. with a couple of brakes here and there. very fun to build.

anyone have any ideas on a set of landing lights for this beauty???
i seen some from RAM. they look okay. just wondering if anyone else was thinking of going that route??

dan

rcmorrow

Hi Mike, I am looking at the E-flite 60's also for mine. Seems like a good fit and with a 6s or 7s pack it should fly very well. I know the Axi's are great motors also, but like Mike, I already have one of the 60 motors. I'll have to do some caluculations to see how it looks in the end though.

Timothy, I htink you said you were going to use the Axi with 8s packs ?

norm

Rudder:

I have promesed to send documented steps for some tips. Well here is a picture which I hope will help you. The rudder is held by a small 1/8 inch thich piece of wood 1/2 x 2 inch. Look at it and you will understand. There is not a lot of stress but the slightest impact or stress on the rudder might break it off. To reinforce it you should put a piece of fine fiberglass cloth soaked in z-poxy and link the piece of wood to the leading edge and trailing edge of the stab. putting 2 coats will not be excessive. I have done my first coat and will apply a second one and glue the rudder to the stab. Make sure you have the stab and rudder ar a perfect 90 degree and hold it there with tape while the glue dries. You must remove the coating at the end of the stab for it to be secured properly with the rudder. Using 30 min epoxy on the outside will do. The instructions suggest to fill the joint od the little piece of wood. This at least is better than nothing, but for added strenght this step is easy and will greatly help in securing the rudder to the stab. Pictures are attached.

RCMORROW,

The link to the thread is perfect and loaded with bomb bay pictures. This site is loaded with infos thank you for you tips.. BTW if you check all the pictures there is another plane named "executive sweet" and the pin-up and writing is not the same. This way I do not feel guilty, I have promessed my wife that she woul be my pin-up! Photoshop lets you be creative all the way and you may create your own picture for the noze...be creative and buy "air miles" and "time" with your wifes... it only one of my tricks! Once your creation is made save it or e-mail it to Graphics shop ant they will print it on sticker plastic film ( make spares one).

Good luck

flaviosi

Mike and Timothy,

What do you guys think about the Hyperion?

Flavio

krproton

Hey everybody.

Two more flights on my B-25 after work today. I wanted to re visit how the plane flies with the APC 13 x 6 2-blade props vs the 3-blade props I have been experimenting with. To bring you up-to-date, I experimented with several 3-blade props and settled on the Master Airscrew 12 x 8. But as we did all of our testing during development with APC 13 x 6 2-blade props I wanted to do a back-to-back comparison.

Well, the APC props do have more pull and fly the plane faster, but not by a great amount. I'm going to stick with the MAS 12 x 8, but you do get a little better performance out of the APC 13 x 6. One of our test pilots from R&D happened to be present after work when I was flying (who was the primary test pilot for the B-25) and he says the same (actually, it is I who agrees with him!).

We figured the best way to explain it is to strongly recommend using the APC 13 x 6 2-blade props for the first flights and until you have complete confidence in your engines--if one should quit the little extra pull you get will help. But overall we like the MAS 12 x 8 3-blades for appearance (when the model is in the pits) and they are also quieter-definitely.

And oh yea, for those of you who haven't read previous posts about all my prop testing, all this is with O.S. .70 Surpass IIs.

See ya!

Tim

mike-rc

My Feedback: (142)

I am not familiar with the Hyperion motor. I used my Power 60 in a Great planes Reactor 46 with 6s 3300. It flew great and had just as much if not more power than a 70 4 stroke, so I figured it should work good in the B-25. I want to use 7s for alittle more power and I can use a smaller prop. I am going to try Graupner 15-8 3 blades. Esprit model makes great mounts for these motors, I already installed one motor and it was very easy. I am glad I do not have to deal with cutting any holes in the cowls.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

8s is rated with the jeti 77 esc and motor. i am trying to run both motors and escs from only two packs instead of having to put 4 in but she will take the weight

norm

Here is the other picture found on executive sweet...

rcmorrow

Hi Flaviosi, I have had a Hyperion motor for a 40 size YAK54 that I fly. They seem to be good motors overall, but I have had some difficulties with getting the speed controls to work really well with them. Could very well be my own knowledge or lack of knowledge in the programming, but I have much better luck using both the Axi and E-Flite motors.

I have used my Hyperion motor successfully (sp ?) with a Castle Creation 80 amp speed control, using the CastleLink software for programming the speed control (be sure to check the Castle Creations site for the most updated verion of the software).

I go along with Timothy about the Axi, they are really outstanding motors and have very good output as far as power.

Ultimately it is a choice of what is available that provides the needed power for the aircraft of this size, the reliability of the system and the ease of purchasing the system (availability and pricing).

Hope I'm not jumping in, but wanted to share my experience with the Hyperions.

Have to apologize for my typing skills here, sorry if some of my notes have been difficult to read.

flaviosi

Guys!! Guys!!!!

Do you know about this? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTFT9&P=7

And this? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTFT6&P=7

Flavio

p39

My Feedback: (5)

I believe they're replacement parts for what's included in the kit.... I mean box.

flaviosi

Tim,

Jealousy!!! Jealousy!!!!!

Flavio

flaviosi

Hi, Rcmorrow!

Hummm... The problem is that my LHS carries only those Hyperions, claim they're pretty good and they're saying they'll set them up for me... I'll have to decide if I stick with them or order Axis directly from US...

Flavio

flaviosi

P39

Oh! I thought I had fresh news...

Flavio

krproton

Flav-dog,

I opened your link to Tower for the B-25 parts and at first I thought somebody back at work had made a mistake, but then, like p39, I realized those are just replacement parts.

rcmorrow

Hi Flavio, the Hyperion motors are very good, and if your LHS has them and can help you with them it is probably your best choice. Be sure to size the motors correctly for the aircraft though. The suggested motors for the B-25 have an output of about 1.1-1.4 hp, giving you about 815-1040 watts you will need from the motor. I know that Hyperion has a range of motors, and I am certain they have some right in the correct range for this model.

I would think motors that have an output of about 1000 to 1200 watts per motor (about 2000 to 2400 watts total for the aircraft) should be very good for this plane, as long as the are not stressed at that output level.

Another issue is the batteries you will choose with the plane. There are many different viewpoints about this and also about the range of weight an aircraft can carry. I am not suggesting that any are wrong, but I have always tried to balance the weight of my batteries with the needs of the aircraft, the motor amperage (sp ?) requirements, and finally (and most important for me) is the attempt to keep the wieght down, especially on an aircraft of this type.

I am personally looking at using lipo batteries in the 6s or 7s configuration for each motor with a capacity of 4000mAH to 6000mAH. This will be used with motors that have a rating of approximately 1200 watts each. These batteries are also rated at 25c or more discharge rate. I have been using ThunderPower batteries now for several years with very good success, alsthough you should look at several of the companies out there, there are many good batteries avaiable at this point. I have always made sure to choose batteries that can carry the amperage and then extra so they are not destroyed or even worse destroy tha aircarft due to fire.

Just another quick point is the set-up for the batteries. There are many different ideas of whether the battery packs for each motor should be independent or if both motors should run off one master pack. Recently I have been reading and discussing this with one of my fellow modellers in my club (he is a very knowledgable and skilled modeller and has been involved with the hobby both recreationally and professionally for many years now). The suggestion is to use one master battery for a twin motor set-up such as the B-25. This would mean that the individual packs (say a 6s 4500mAH pack for each motor) would then be tied in parallel with eachother (effectively creating a 6s 9000mAH pack) which would run both motors. Each motor would have its own identical speed control (same company, same model, same generation of purchase and manufacture, and same exact programming) tied into the throttle channel of the aircraft. The advantage of this system is that should the batteries become low and there is a motor cutoff it will be both motors so you don't experience a single motor failure.

Note that Tim and other at Top Flite have done a wonderful job designing this plane and it has been tested with motor out scenarios from what I have read, and been very successful at being flyable.

Hoping this gives some ideas. I am very aware that there are many different and valid ideas for set-ups other than what I am suggesting. Also I am certain there are many arguments against the possible set-up I suggest too. I just want to put some information out and hope that it is a positive catalyst for all of us with this project. Being a school teacher of have always felt that knowlege is a very powerful tool. Getting information that we can share and being able to discuss the many ideas and possibilities is a wonderful aspect of this hobby !

One last point I wish to make (and I promise to stop writing for now !) is that glow power is also an extremely good choice for this plane for many reasons, not the least of which is the wonderful sound of two engines in sync with eachother, realistically powering a model of this size and type and recreating the excitement of the full size aircraft.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

there is no cockpit kit so these may be a good and new add on . D balsa makes great cockpits. ill download bombay pics tomorrow when its light. My cheap camera doesnt take good pics at night. shes coming along well. I added the reinforcements on both sides of the bay. see in ww2 stresses were bending airplanes so a field mod was to bolt on stiffiners on each side, as far as rivets im using the method from flite metals web site. They have a resin that sets clear and the button rivit takes on the color of their surroundings

flaviosi

Rc,

Thank you very much for the tips! I'll discuss all of those ideas with the guys (great guys, btw) at the LHS, specially concerning the ARF power requirements and the corresponding electric engines.

I'm very excited about this project and although it's not good to wait long to have the kit, I'm having a good time to plan ahead, with the help of all of you.

Thanks again,

Flavio

flaviosi

Hi, Jimmy,

Cool, man!

Well, I was trying to return a tiny bit of everything I'm getting from you here, but... not this time. I'll keep lurking around. One time or another I'll come up with something useful.

Flavio

krproton

rcmorrow,

This summer I was awakened to the convenience of electric. I converted a Great Planes Venus II ARF to electric. It is a wonderful model and the thing I like best about it is that when I'm done flying for the day, all I have to do is take it home and put it in my garage. I haven't cleaned it even one time because it never gets dirty (I mean it never gets fuel or exhaust residue on it).

But, for a model like the B-25, I'm with you. I wish all of you could hear the sound of this bird flying by at full throttle with two O.S. 70s in sync. Every time I fly it other club members tell me how great it sounds. And today another guy told me he was surprised at how quiet it is.

Okay then, good night all and I'll "see" you tomorrow.

Tim

danrc2

does anyone have any good ideas for landing lights that i could use a mirco switch off the retracts???

norm

DanRc2,

Your Landing lights should be mounted on the wheel struts, just on top of the wheel. A good idea for landing lights is to wire a system with High Density leds. Some are 5/16 & 3/16 diameter. You could also mount the starboard (right) wing position light in green and the portside (left) wing in red. Warbird typically never flew with position lights at night. but for recognition purpose they had the red & green position lights and the formation lights in the tail red & white. Landing gears used to hold the landing lights and were mainly used to taxi and land. You should mount also white lights at the wing root on the fuselage to light up the leading edges of the wings and on the nacelle to light up the wing on the other side of the nacelle. These were used to check for ice build up on the wings leading edge and turned on only when they neede to check for ice build up. You can also use normal LED (yellow + red to light up the cockpits (all of them), Pilot, side gunners and tail gunner. This is cool and specially when you admire your model in the dark!

Now high density LED is simple and cheap to put together. You must first find an electronic supply store and select the LED and led mount you desire (do not put any blinking strobes...they only go on civilian aircraft carrying passengers) .

Do not let yourself get confused by the different voltage and AMP ratings, they are typically 3.2 or 2.0, 3.0 volt with 20, 30, 25 mah rating. some are 13.8 volt... this all means nothing because you will need to wire the LED with a resistance of approximately 190 ohm, 240 ohms... Do not let Ohm volt and amps scare you. Find on the internet a "Led calculator" and determine the resistsance you need and you mount it on a 9 volt battery. High Density LED are fantastic and are long lasting 100,000hrs+ so your B-25 will be buried way before the lights. The lighting power is also very strong and a low consumption. A 10 light system will last +/- 6 month on a 9v battery with normal use. If this interest you, I'll find you the precise position and color of all the position and formation lights to set up on the B-25 and guide you through the wiring and correct resistances to use.

A whole led system will cost you with switches +/- 20,00$ so enjoy it!


so long

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

landing lights were in the wing. bomb bay really looking good ive marked and started drilling out the holes in the bay doors. ill have pics tomorrow wingspanmodels.com has super lights

danrc2

i was looking for a set of lights to go into the leading edge of the wings as the landing lights. i really didnt wanna get in to nav lights. just something simple. i found a site saying to just get to AA flash lights cut them apart put in the wings and hook them up to the flaps. looking for something easy here but look good too. wingspanmodels has nav light system. its nice but not was i was looking for.

is anyone else putting landing lights on theirs????


dan

norm

Danrc2
This is right, the Landing lights are mounted in the wings. I guess I have looked at a modified model with landing lights mounted on the struts. There may have been different setup. Nevertheless we are looking at a B-25J and the lights were in the wings. I'v e inserted a picture that shows the position of the Landing lights in the wings on a B-25J. You should go to your electronic store and the set-up you have in mind will cost at the most 5$. I plan to mount lights on my model but later this winter now my attention is set on putting together the plant to fly it before the snow. I fly a prop jet at night! with a whole lighting set up. I inserted pictures that may show you how easy it is to set up.