pgroom_68

Hey again aircrash,

I have a titanium tailboom for added strength. I bought it local to me [link=http://www.eastcoasthobbies.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_ id=119&zenid=f408d0cd57997cd2dcfd06cb41598ab5]HERE[/link] - obviously I bought the last one!

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. I can't find the tailboom for the Big Lama[] on Miracle-mart.com in HongKong
P.P.S. PLEASE call me Peter!

pgroom_68

Hey again Buzz,

We all know that you don't need to run-in a BL motor!!

I am a firm believer in "dry" run-ins - so I probably won't be changing my practices - but you have given some very interesting info[sm=49_49.gif]
Thanks for that mate! Sounds like you are experienced with small brushed motors. Heatsinks are a necessary part of your bird because "they draw the heat to another physical area for dispersion". THEY DO WORK (and I am speaking from my experiences and some [link=http://home.earthlink.net/~joaquintinker/tail_motor_heat_sink.htm]clear heatsink data[/link]) - on this occassion the data is for a DD tail motor HEATSINK for the HBFP)

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

aircrash

Well here`s how it is Peter,

you have a stronger tail boom but still you don`t have any support pipe to support that tail boom. You may have added on your own, but the TRF-Heli "kit" doesn`t have, so it`s a semi kit I would call. Also they don`t list spare parts of that "kit".
So the tail boom it`s only bonded to the base.
That (the base) will break, sooner or after -I`m afraid. And if it breakes it`ll may also break the part that is holding it.

So why bother fiiting such a "kit" when you can always take a canopy, tail boom, tail boom support pipes and holders and make your own tail boom base, after all sooner or after you`ll have to make your own as it`ll break...

It might be a good choise for someone who wants a different look but don`t fly much, or fly too good. I don`t know.

-Hey! Miracle Mart owns them. Can`t beat that variety, prices, shipping (default is registered and not plain mail), communication. If only they have more in stock (sold out). Of course there are many shops out there, make always a comparison before you buy.

pgroom_68

Hey again aircrash,

WHERE are the tailbooms at Miracle-mart.com that will fit the Big Lama??

The base of my boom is bolted and glued...

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Try making the mods that you suggested and post some pics - that would be good

erdnuckel2

Hi all,

reading the last few posts I can only say one thing:

TOOBAD Xtreme didn't even ANNOUNCE any plans of offering a tailboom or a modded battery tray or a canopy for the BOL - at least I haven't heard any of this yet!!
(And we all knew what happened with the glorious Xtreme BigLama blades ... pretty ridiculous result for postponing the release month after month after month (for almost a year) )

So ... how did you say, Aircrash ... it'll be modding as Xtreme doesn't offer any (which I am working on right now ... already got a few drawings ...)

oh, BTW, I strongly believe in the fact that tailboom support pipes are not too necessary with a CoAx - would be different if you fly 3D! I fly my "little lamas as well as the CX without them, didn't have a problem ... you don't need them for a HBFP - so why for a BOL??

Sven

aircrash

Hi Sven,

well I thought I could make an aluminium battery box (kind of box) and extend the rear side to the up. Up to the middle of the rear motor.
That in case I fit a 1500mah battery.
With stock battery you can make a brace that fits between the battery holder and skids and extend it upwards.

Now it has to be more rigid, so there is some room left arround the rear motor of the frame. At that part a second brace can be bolted at the left and right side of the rear motor, which will support the lower tail boom brace.

I would fit some tail boom support pipes just in case the heli crashes, especially if we are talking about brushless w/upgraded battery.
That heli weights the double than a stock v3, so the impact is much more violent.
But then again the mass is at the front, close to the frame, so it doesn`t crash much with its tail, true, so maybe you`re about right that is not so necessary.
But in case we are talking about a kit then it should definetely have them.
Except of a crash they make the tail boom more rigid, without vibrating, which makes it more stable in flight and gyro is also not confused. And they add much to the look.


The advantage of a tail boom in comparison with the stock BOL canopy is not only you save yourself out of a broken canopy but you make the heli to can stand more windy flights, as the vertical surface of the tail is decreased.
Also you can move the esc and electronics to the front, as well as the battery a bit to the front, and adjust the lenght of the tail boom so that you get a good centre of gravity but on the other hand the mass be apart from the axis of the shafts.
That way you`ll also get a long tail boom, so it`ll look bigger.
You`ll also protect better the esc and all the other electronics, as the stock canopy cannot protect them much as it breaks soooo easily.

Spiros.

legrill83

Hello everyone, I am new to rc heli's.  I recently purchased a BOL and need some help on installing the xtreme extended shaft.  I've been looking through prior posts but can't find any information. 
Any instruction would be appreciated as this is my first helicopter and I don;t want to do anything wrong! Ie tools, tricks, ease, how long it takes, etc.

Thanks
-Larry

aircrash

Welcome Larry.

I`m new here also but I can help on that.

First of all I would recommend to stick on the stock inner shaft until you learn to fly well enough and/or it gets bented.
Stock is fine if you don`t do agressive movements to the sticks. And makes the heli smoother, a bit better to hover also.

Removing and installing procedure for inner shaft.

But if you like to change it then:
1. you`ll need an exploded view of the BOL which shows all the parts and their position. It comes inside the box.
2. remove upper blade holders and the flybar.
3. you`ll need an 1.5mm allen wrench (though I believe its in inches and not in metric system). So better go to a hardware tool shop and see what makes a perfect fit.
4. use the allen wrench and un screw the lower gear. Remove the screw completely, not just untighten.
5. pull the lower gear out until it stops at the battery holder. Use a clockwise movement while you are pulling.
6. now that inner shaft is free to be pulled out (from top) pull it while you turning it clockwise. During this proccess grab (by your hand) the outer shaft but carefull not to bent it.
7. If you feel it`s hard to pull but the lower gear now is back to its original position (close to the upper gear) then stop pulling the shaft and hold the inner shaft and pull now the gear so to remove it completely.
8. If I remember right there is a thin washer with a lip facing upwards. See before you take out the gear if it`s there, so to get it back on re-installing.
9. now that gear is off you can pull the inner shaft as per above instructions.
10. remove the inner shaft bearing cup.
11. Undo backwards all the above procedure for installing the new shaft. But first push the inner shaft until it stops to the inner shaft bearing cup completely, and when screwing the bolt make sure the gear is stopped against the other gear (remember about the washer also).
So finally the new inner shaft has no gap and makes no travel up and down. Tight fit.
The gear`s screw goes to the corresponding point of the shaft.

****Note that if the inner shaft`s bottom end is grooved/bented/curved (sorry I don`t know the term) and is hard to pass through the bearings then you can use 400 grid sandpaper to smooth it out.
Excessive force may -and will- damage the bearings and propably with point to bented shafts.

**** DONOTuse any other tool than the allen wrench and sandpaper. You`ll damage the shafts and/or something else.

Hope you can understand well enough my poor English.
Wish you get it through with ease.

PS. I`ve beaten others posting cause of time zone.

Spiros.

aircrash

I forgot to say that you have to remove the canopy. Just remove lower blades also. The lower blade holders don`t need to be removed.
In case you mix up the blades then the upper ones are marked as "A" and the lower ones as "B".

legrill83

Aircrash>>>

Thank you very much for the info and the English was understandable. I guess it makes sense to fly it with stock shaft first and see how it goes.

Cheers
-Larry</p>

Buz

Ha! I raced motocross professionally for about 5 years. I raced yamaha's, and Ossa Stilletto's. The Ossa was a spanish bike and to get them running properly... we fired them up right out of the crate and held the throttle wide open for a while. If it didn't blow up... we figured it was ready to race. I never had a problem with either. I wasn't talking about batteries at all. What I'm saying is that the bruses on these sized motors do not have to be "run in".
I raced 1/10th scale r/c cars too.. and i never ran the brushes in. They seated during practice and by race time it was good to go. Like I said, to each his own. IMHO, it's a waste of time and brushes.

Buzz

rikybob

Larry,

If your project to replace your inner shaft goes awry as mine did (see above), PM me for a solution. When mass produced products are manufactured, great care is not priority and in my case grub screws were seated wrong and 'boogered' both ends of the short shaft making disassembly difficult.

rikybob

Larry,

If your project to replace your inner shaft goes awry as mine did (see above), PM me for a solution. When mass produced products are manufactured, great care is not priority and in my case grub screws were seated wrong and 'boogered' both ends of the short shaft making disassembly difficult.

Buz

Actually you don't have to remove the canopy. I did my entire mod, without removing the blades or the body. Saves a lot of time.

Don't put the metal swash plate in. Don't use the lower metal grips either. Just use the top metal assembly, and be sure to paint the screws with fingernail polish when you put them back in.

Rickybob.... did you strip out the grub screw totally? Let me know if you did... I'll send you a new lower gear because you're going to have to drill that screw out which is going to ruin your bottom gear.

Buzz

rikybob

buzz,

No, I took my time and great care. Only thing I can't control is crappy manufacturing! Metal head was jammed due to "burrs" from improper install of aforementioned grub screw on both ends of inner shaft.
Grrrr!



Rikybob

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

I bet you didn't win that many races either Did you hook your car up to a dyno on a laptop and mod and setup from there??

Buz

You're dead wrong on this Wheelnut. Not only did I win all the races... I won the annual championship! I still have the certificate. Want to see it? Dyno? No, no dyno. That car was tuned by hand...by me. There's a LOT more to racing them than brushes. Yeah, we did try different mods on our own track. The best way to run a 1/10 scale race car...and this was on a flat out wide open track... shaped exactly like the Daytona Intl Speedway. You never let off the throttle unless it was a race that used the infield track also. Brakes? HAHAHA! No, there are no brakes in r/c car racing. We ran flat out for every heat and because I didn't run in my brushes.... I never had to worry about changing them between heats. I'm serious about winning the championship. You under estimate me. I have more than 30 years of racing and flying experience.

Let me know if you want to see the championship certificate. Where's yours?

Buzz

aircrash

You`re welcome.
Now that you`ve have access to the gears (if you decide to remove canopy for any reason) you can also check for proper gear to pinion gap.
You can have a look here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9360637

Mine came with the B` motor too close to the gear, actually pushing the gear, making periodic harsh noise which is annoying but also would wear out the pinion and the motor !
</p>

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Hey guys, I received my Key chain cam today. There seems to be a problem. I read the instructions and from what I can tell, when I plug the usb adaptor into the camera and then into the computer, it should start charging and flashing red and green alternatley. But all it does is glow a redish orangish color, it got pretty warm after a few minutes.
Any ideas?

Raycamaro

I bought two of them and both show an orange light when connected to USB. Who did you buy yours from and does it have a USB adapter or cable? Did you install a TF card?

sgbfly

Hi Wheelnut &amp; Everyone,

They do tend to get a little warm during charging. Its nothing to worry about and those that have taken them to bits say its the charge circuit rather than the lithium battery that is getting warm.

Every key fob camera I have seen has a small orange LED that flashes when charging and stays on solid when fully charged (in theory). The instructions say 2hours charge from a wall adapter or 3hours from a computer USB port will give a full chage from flat. In practice mine only flashes for 30 minutes when charging from flat. However, if I leave it for the full 3 hours I get better battery performance. I think the charge indicator is unreliable but then the camera only cost $15!

A few stills from a video I took yesterday with the Key fob camera on my BOL. I took a brave pill and broke my altitude PB - probable raised the bar to about 250 feet! Most of our snow has now gone but it was great to have a white Christmas - the chickens can still find some lol.

Best wishes to everyone!

Simon

PS. The terrain is flat so the pics are for real!
PPS. Wow! this thread is moving fast again!

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Thanks guys, when I first plugged mine in, the light was solid. The instructions says it will blink while charging. After leaving it there for about 10 min it got warm so it must have been charging. I did finally insert a TF card, took a short test vidand it is working great. Maybe I will use it a little more to see if I can get the light to blink when I plug it in.

I got mine from eletoponline365 on ebay from Hong Kong. It came with the usp adapter. I love the adapter. it is nice and short.

sgbfly,
That is a nice looking area you live in. Where is it exactly?
How did you take pics from that high? Did you just extract the pic from the vid or what?

sgbfly

Thanks. The pics were extracted from the video using media player classic or virtualdub.

The video was taken at my friends house because he has a large garden that is sheltered by many tall trees, although on that occasion I was well above them! He lives in a lodge on a old country estate called Welbeck. Its just north of Sherwood Forest in England which is famously Robin Hood country!

Simon

2bras

I am only new to heli's, I have just purchased the BOL and have had great fun with it so far besides a few broken blades. I am wanting to know how long should the standard battery take to charge as mine took 3 hours, I have'nt been able to find out how long it takes anywhere.
Also what are the best mods to do to it
Thanks
Gary

aircrash

Hi Simon,

wow, that`s really high! Impressive
Nice photos also (I wish I was living there).

That`s a very good place to take some videos.

BTW, how big is the filesize of 1 hour video with that key camera?
I`m really a bit confused by some descriptions by the various sellers there. Some talk about 1GB per hour, others don`t mention at all and I`ve read in your links about 4GB per hour.
Some say about 1 hour battery life and others about 2 hours.

Spiros