Welcome to Club SAITO !
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
A puller is always good to have around. Yes, both front and rear bearings come out after heating in the oven. Sounds like you are about ready to do anything on engines.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Ive also used a power steering pump pulley remover
to take the drive hub off with.
the puller has two halves and a sleeve that drops over it.
it was the perfect size.
to take the drive hub off with.
the puller has two halves and a sleeve that drops over it.
it was the perfect size.
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ">registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.</span>
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.</span>
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: flyingagin
I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never <span class=''Apple-style-span'' style=''font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ''>registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.</span>
I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never <span class=''Apple-style-span'' style=''font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ''>registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.</span>
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I think he means whether it will need more work than just bearings and a ring.
Certainly a good cleaning will be in order, and valves readjusted. How about the cam gear shaft? Do those wear, OF? Or is that going too far?
Bob
Certainly a good cleaning will be in order, and valves readjusted. How about the cam gear shaft? Do those wear, OF? Or is that going too far?
Bob
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
<span class="Apple-style-span">
More parts and more extensive repair, i.e. valve train parts. It for sure has a bunch of hours. Or might I just get by with the bearings and ring.
Thanks</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ">N1EDMyou nailed what I failed to say
</span><span class="Apple-style-span">Sorry I did not make my selve clear
<br type="_moz" /></span>
ORIGINAL: Old Fart
How do you mean more what?
ORIGINAL: flyingagin
I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never <span style="">registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.</span>
I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never <span style="">registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.</span>
Thanks</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: tahoma, verdana, arial; font-size: 11px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ">N1EDMyou nailed what I failed to say
</span><span class="Apple-style-span">Sorry I did not make my selve clear
<br type="_moz" /></span>
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Old Fart
How do you mean more what?
ORIGINAL: flyingagin
I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never <span class=''Apple-style-span'' style=''font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ''>registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.</span>
I have suscribed to this thread for maybe 2 years now. Learned a lot. But never <span class=''Apple-style-span'' style=''font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ''>registered in CLUB SAITO.
I have a Saito .65 I bought NIB right after I got home from the first Gulf War. Still got it. still runs, but down on power. Needs a rebuild, new ring and main bearings. Do you think that is all it will need or will it need more.</span>
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: N1EDM
I think he means whether it will need more work than just bearings and a ring.
Certainly a good cleaning will be in order, and valves readjusted. How about the cam gear shaft? Do those wear, OF? Or is that going too far?
Bob
I think he means whether it will need more work than just bearings and a ring.
Certainly a good cleaning will be in order, and valves readjusted. How about the cam gear shaft? Do those wear, OF? Or is that going too far?
Bob
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: STOKEY
How go ya get registered in CLUB SAITO?
Thanks
Stokey
How go ya get registered in CLUB SAITO?
Thanks
Stokey
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Barry, sometime in the recent past there was a discussion concernng a poor tank location and the cure for it. The Cline and IronBay regulators were suggested, probably by me. I pulled my old 1991 High Compression Saito 1.50, one of the first sold, out of its box and mounted a Cline regulator.
Saito 1.50
Fuel WildCat 15% 2/4 with 18% full synthetic
Plug===Taipan 4c plug
Prop===MasterAirscrew Classic 18x6
RPM max===8,181
Idle slowest 1,750
I ran 14oz of the fuel out of the tank at various rpm then let it idle the rest of tank out at 2,300, (a realistic flight idle) it took at least 10 minutes to burn the last 2oz of the fuel out at idle. I wanted to see if the tank would stay pressurized until it ran out of fuel, it did. I used a Hobby Lobby metal check valve as the other Cline check valves are on Diesel engines in Tygon fuel line which melts on glow exhaust.
PS, the 18" prop cleared the firewood by .375"
Saito 1.50
Fuel WildCat 15% 2/4 with 18% full synthetic
Plug===Taipan 4c plug
Prop===MasterAirscrew Classic 18x6
RPM max===8,181
Idle slowest 1,750
I ran 14oz of the fuel out of the tank at various rpm then let it idle the rest of tank out at 2,300, (a realistic flight idle) it took at least 10 minutes to burn the last 2oz of the fuel out at idle. I wanted to see if the tank would stay pressurized until it ran out of fuel, it did. I used a Hobby Lobby metal check valve as the other Cline check valves are on Diesel engines in Tygon fuel line which melts on glow exhaust.
PS, the 18" prop cleared the firewood by .375"
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
Barry, sometime in the recent past there was a discussion concernng a poor tank location and the cure for it. The Cline and IronBay regulators were suggested, probably by me. I pulled my old 1991 High Compression Saito 1.50, one of the first sold, out of its box and mounted a Cline regulator.
Saito 1.50
Fuel WildCat 15% 2/4 with 18% full synthetic
Plug===Taipan 4c plug
Prop===MasterAirscrew Classic 18x6
RPM max===8,181
Idle slowest 1,750
I ran 14oz of the fuel out of the tank at various rpm then let it idle the rest of tank out at 2,300, (a realistic flight idle) it took at least 10 minutes to burn the last 2oz of the fuel out at idle. I wanted to see if the tank would stay pressurized until it ran out of fuel, it did. I used a Hobby Lobby metal check valve as the other Cline check valves are on Diesel engines in Tygon fuel line which melts on glow exhaust.
PS, the 18'' prop cleared the firewood by .375''
Barry, sometime in the recent past there was a discussion concernng a poor tank location and the cure for it. The Cline and IronBay regulators were suggested, probably by me. I pulled my old 1991 High Compression Saito 1.50, one of the first sold, out of its box and mounted a Cline regulator.
Saito 1.50
Fuel WildCat 15% 2/4 with 18% full synthetic
Plug===Taipan 4c plug
Prop===MasterAirscrew Classic 18x6
RPM max===8,181
Idle slowest 1,750
I ran 14oz of the fuel out of the tank at various rpm then let it idle the rest of tank out at 2,300, (a realistic flight idle) it took at least 10 minutes to burn the last 2oz of the fuel out at idle. I wanted to see if the tank would stay pressurized until it ran out of fuel, it did. I used a Hobby Lobby metal check valve as the other Cline check valves are on Diesel engines in Tygon fuel line which melts on glow exhaust.
PS, the 18'' prop cleared the firewood by .375''
Since I am not experienced with pressure regulators, what would the engine have done without the regulator? Would it be mostly for correcting a badly located fuel tank?
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: hsukaria
NICE PICS, HOBBSY. You can put a bigger prop and use it to chop your firewood, winter is coming.
Since I am not experienced with pressure regulators, what would the engine have done without the regulator? Would it be mostly for correcting a badly located fuel tank?
NICE PICS, HOBBSY. You can put a bigger prop and use it to chop your firewood, winter is coming.
Since I am not experienced with pressure regulators, what would the engine have done without the regulator? Would it be mostly for correcting a badly located fuel tank?
the pump and regular is similar to using a bladder or crankcase pressure (timed or untimed) to allow the same performance gains on the engines.
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Is an FA-91 going to be enough motor for a 12lb, 72"wingspan plane? This bird claims to be a 60 (2c) plane but it sure seems to be about on par with the likes of an ESM or KMP 120 plane.
Is there any kind of "rule of thumb" for sizing engines by plane weight or span?
Also, the link I used to have for a thrust calculator is NLA; Does anyone have a link to any kind of engine/prop thrust calc?
Thanks!!
PS; by the way, this FA-91 is turning an Evolution 14x8 prop @8250rpm on 15% nitro-18% castor/synth cool power
Is there any kind of "rule of thumb" for sizing engines by plane weight or span?
Also, the link I used to have for a thrust calculator is NLA; Does anyone have a link to any kind of engine/prop thrust calc?
Thanks!!
PS; by the way, this FA-91 is turning an Evolution 14x8 prop @8250rpm on 15% nitro-18% castor/synth cool power
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Thanks H, I can respond to you and Earl both by saying it can cure a too high tank or too low tank problem and also make it possible to put the tank on the CG which was the original intent. And, Earl is correct, you can run the HS needle closer to peak. I had a Saito 2.20 that came with the large carb option and the crankcase pump to pressureize the tank by restricting the vent output. That system was very hard to get a suitable adjustment, the IronBay regulator worked with the large carb option much better and required no adjustment.
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
Thanks H, I can respond to you and Earl both by saying it can cure a too high tank or too low tank problem and also make it possible to put the tank on the CG which was the original intent. And, Earl is correct, you can run the HS needle closer to peak. I had a Saito 2.20 that came with the large carb option and the crankcase pump to pressureize the tank by restricting the vent output. That system was very hard to get a suitable adjustment, the IronBay regulator worked with the large carb option much better and required no adjustment.
Thanks H, I can respond to you and Earl both by saying it can cure a too high tank or too low tank problem and also make it possible to put the tank on the CG which was the original intent. And, Earl is correct, you can run the HS needle closer to peak. I had a Saito 2.20 that came with the large carb option and the crankcase pump to pressureize the tank by restricting the vent output. That system was very hard to get a suitable adjustment, the IronBay regulator worked with the large carb option much better and required no adjustment.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I have a Saito 1.8 FS that stops running when the igniter is removed at 1/4 barrel setting. It runs fine at WOT and half throttle with the igniter removed. I'm stumpped.
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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Low Speed needle too rich, set HS needle at full peak, then lean LS needle 1/8th turn at a time until you get about a 2,000 rpm idle, be willing to sacrifice a few rpm in favor of the best transition. Fly it at about 2,200 rpm idle.
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My Feedback: (26)
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Thanks for the reply. I'll continue on taking your suggestion has my first step. I'm new to Saito engines since I have been using OS. I guess there is no secret they tune the same way except for YS.