ringneck

i think but im not totaly sure but if im right the sportwerks box uses 2 550 motors and if so they arent the best for turning over big block mills also if you are useing 2 stick packs you may whant to consider changing it over to a 12 volt gell cell batteryif you can im not sure you can even convert that sport werks box over to gell cell. may whant to consider an ofna or thunder tiger box thease have a 750 motor and use gell cell batterys and are much better.

Dirby

i bought a ofna box and wired it so it attaches directly to the 12 volt battery in my car also the switch is wired so it will run all the time until it is turned off.
i have found in the past that no matter what kind of engine you are starting weather it be a cyclon 061 or a nelson65 model airplane engine or truggy engine you have to have the starter box or startert turning before you engage the motor that you are trying to start.
if you put the fly wheel to the wheel on the starter box than start the box the engine probably won't start you need the enerta going to kick it in the butt to get it going.
thc Dirby.

AUTOMAG

Last night i got my new Jammin CRT RTR. It seems to be real nice.I took some time to loctite a few things and check the shocks for oil.I have a few things left to check out . First was the lack of tubing on the brake rods.When i get some batteries in there ill make sure and adjust for brakes.I was pleasantly suprised at how nice the paint job is although the body is way too thin .I think ill ad some heat reflective tape to the bodies underside to make it slightly more rigid.Im going to wrap the header pipe with some header wrap i have out in the garage. That will keep the body from melting and it will help keep the heat inside the pipe where it should be.It will be awhile before i can take the truck to run it.

AUTOMAG

Well after looking at it awhile ,i chose not to wrap the header pipe.I ended up by aluminum tape to tape down the heat barrier material to the body where needed . It came out very neat looking and i have no worries about the hot exhaust melting into the body pannel or the gas tank .I think i was able to adjust the brakes but im not too sure. They come on just as you move the trigger forward but i hope it doesnt cut out the engine lowering the trottle. The stock electronics work ok as well.

badxlt

well your right the cyclone comes with to 550 and it will hold a gel cell. but the only reason i boght the box is that i read in a mag that it has the power to start all big blocks and that mag was RC Car. but i do have the box set to spin up to speed before the fly wheel hits so thats not it. o and i called sport werks up and they told me I'm S O L so i dont know i don't have any more money and I'm not seeing a lot in the future so I'm S O L.

Dnell

badxlt

The only thing I can think of is maybe the batteries aren't fully charged or their voltage is low. Is it that you're saying the box isn't spining the engine fast enough? cause all things being equal, if an engine can be started with a couple of pulls of a pull start, unless the box is turning really slow (which points to the battery), the engine should start (given the glow ignitor is fully charged as well) What 'mah' rating are your stick packs and does the engine still need breaking in?

The reason I bring these things up is, maybe there's a technic that may help the situation.

skmotoxxx

Hey Automag, make sure you take those differentials apart! Mine were bone dry. Oh and make sure you lower the front end a little and stiffen up the rear. That motor pulls hard and the car will stay straight until you let off the gas! I changed my suspension around quite a bit, it seems to have helped around the house, gonna take it to the track tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

skmotoxxx

Oh yeah, and change out the rear wing for a buggy wing. Apparently the stock wing is too stiff and the buggy wing seems to absorb some more impact, otherwise you might be buying some wing stays (which seem to be hard to find at the moment). One more thing I found, they routed the fuel line around the exhaust pipe and the Cyl. head! I'm not a rocket scientist but heated fuel isn't as good as cool fuel. And put a fuel filter on it. Man I just keep going on and on...

badxlt

Dnell well now i dont know i was running a gel cel that put out 12 volts and 5 ah and it wouldnt start it and i put it on a old box and fired right up. but the motor just got broke in and still needs some tuneing but any way i put some stick backs it so i can get 14.8 volts i thinkd and 7 ah and it sounds much beter and it turns the truck over very well but i have to get a new wheel the one was soft very soft and it was gone it a couple of trys but i have enough to try it later but i think it will work.

Dnell

I'm out of ideas, sorry []

ferdi from Germany

my two cents: some engines just dont want to start when cold. My SH PT XB is such an engine. I killed FOUR motors in my Mugen starter box with it (two 540s, two 550s). Tghen I bought a new box with one 750 motor (in Germany distributed by LRP) and a 12V gel cell and always transported the the car on the floor in front of the passenger seat with the car's heating directed to it, so it started more easily in cold weather. We had an indoor race some weeks ago. It was -5° (Celsius!) and without a hairdryer I would have been lost. The ghood thing about the SH PT though is that it likes high temperatures, it can rweach up to 170°C before you loose power. Below 140°C, it just won't run all right.

Some days ago I put in my new engine, a .27 Werks Picco, and although still cold it started AT ONCE and without any problems.

Some engines are like that.

AUTOMAG

skmotoxxx, thanks for the info So far I hav"nt made any spring adjustments to the truggy yet .I will add some preload to the rears for starters.I did re route the fuel line .They had it running all the way around the HOT engine cylnder past the exhaust and everything.Oh no , are you telling me to open the diffs to check for oil ?? that looks like alot of work and it looks like a pain in the butt .I seriously hope they put oil in the things..

LJ4K

Automag,The diffs look harder to get out than they actully are. Mine had more grease on the outside than they did in them. I've had my CRT 2 weeks been working on it ever since. Thinking I should have bought the kit. Hope it's worth all the work once I get to run it.

AUTOMAG

LJ4K thanks.I cant imagine why they would assemble the thing without adding some oil in there.If you guys did"nt mention it, i would have not thought twice to look.I may add a few upgraded aluminum parts anyway so I may check the differentials. Those different weight oils are all new to me as well.

crazysavage

One of the best ways to handle the diffs in a ready to run is to run it. You will be breaking in the engine anyway and you wont be putting much stress on the diffs. After your engine is broken in, take out the diffs, clean them as if you were going to eat them and add the fluid weights of your choice, I like 5000 in the front 15 to 20k in the center and 3000 in the rear. Use a fresh paper seal or a thin bead of silicone sealer on the old seal and silocone grease on the little red o-ring and they will be leak free and smooth as silk. Make sure you mark the diffs as you fill them so you wont mix them up and make note of how they come out of the gear case so you dont put them in backwards. This diff breakin will make them last for a long time cause you will be removing all the fine particles of metal that wiil naturally shave off the new gears. Good luck.

AUTOMAG

Thanks for the advice crazysavage .It sounds like a good plan.I appreciate the help.My frind just picked up a used Tmax with an os.15 hope i can hang with him

proxpilot

My Feedback: (3)

you should be able to own that t-maxx

ringneck

hey i know this is off the subject but who here is sick of runnin the plain old same old dish wheels? i am. do you guys think proline really needs to up the anny and make a wabash wheel for the crt? i think they would look pretty swanky on the old crt dont you?

crazysavage

I ran it by them on their email, so hit em up.

AUTOMAG

I agree with that all the way. I was looking around for some nice wheels and there is nothing Whats up with that.Someone should make a nice looking mag wheel for the Jammin by now.Im sure if they were out there people would be buying them.

nitrosportdecals

VERY VERY IMPORTANT!!! Check to make sure that the on/off switch is in the down postion when powered on, this will avoid a runaway caused by the switch shutting down on hard landings. If you flip your switch "UP" to power on, you need to reverse it, in other words, flipping the switch "DOWN" should power up the receiver. If you need to change it, you can just reverse the wiring or flip the switch itself around. YOU MUST DO THIS It will avoid a major, potentially costly headache.

proxpilot

My Feedback: (3)

good tip! ill check mine when i get a battery.

kkazen

My Feedback: (1)

Can anyone tell me where the best place (on-line) to purchase parts for thr CRT

AUTOMAG

Hello KKazen . There area few good places to get parts both plastic and cnc aluminum upgrades.Ill give you a short list (Carolinas rc) (Speedtechnitro) (A main hobbies)(Kingheadz)( Tower Hobbies) That should give you plenty of stuf to check out..

Dirby

the wheels on my jasmmin are both going in opposite directions any body know why?
yhx Dirby.