Buz

That's what I was talking about in my post above.. I haven't been able to find the screwdrivers long enough yet, but I know a lot of people used Jestine's mod to extend the shaft just about perfectly. Since Jestine's screwdriver extension was the exact diameter as the original inner shaft, I wonder if the metal head might fit on it anyway. Ya think?

Buzz

patricklupo

I agree with Aircrash that the Xtreme +15mm shaft isbetter because the upperexposed part is a solidaluminum piece andyou can replace thelower part of the shaft with a stock one (or even a futher extended shaft).

Oneway I've found to strightenout wobbly outer and inner shafts is to first remove allblades, flybar, etc. Thenspinup theshaft atlow RPM andcarefully hold a felt tip markernearit , tomark the side that's wobbling.The center of the marked spot will beexactly where the shaft is wobblingtowards you, soyou want togentlybend the shaft away from that mark. I fly with an on-boardcamera, so any vibration at all is a no-go for me, but I've been able to straighten out bentshaftssatisfactory several times. One note is that the outershaft is much harder to mend as it's hollow andprone to creasing or dents.When that happens, it'stime to get a new one.The Xtreme +15mm inner shaftupgrade makes it much easierto straighten out inner shafts.This is becasue the upper aluminum part isvirtuallyunbreakable sothelower attachedshaft usuallybends at the point where it attaches tothe upper part.

Other balancing tips:

-Adjust your flybar link tobalance it;then add a second coupling link to the other side. I was surprised at how much vibrationwas introduced just by usingthe singleflybar link that came with the BOL. You have to order a secondflybar to get anotherlink though. If you get TBE (toilet bowl effect) or your flybar unbalances, then the secondlink is adjusted tooshort or long.

-Invest in a small digital scale with 0.1 gram accuracy andbalance blades, flybar weights and even the rubberholders for the flybarweights.

*Watch this forum formy upcomingreview of a 1200 mAH 11.1v 20c LiPo battery that's only 70 grams. That's just3 grams heavier than the stock 800mAHbattery. Initial results are good so far, but it may be too good to be true. Stay tuned.

aircrash

Hi Patricklupo,

That`s a very good tip.
I knew about this as I had one heli that had two flybar link rods and tried only one to make it sporty, and then on another bigger one I had tried two while out of stock it had only one.

But had forgotten it, got completely out of my mind as I had tought the BOL too good out of the factory to mess with something like that.
It`s exactly what I need to my preference of helicopter`s behaviour.
Smoother, less aggressive reaction to a hard movement of the sticks and more forgiving to a begginer pilot. Although that now I don`t do hard movements of the sticks or I`m not a begginer I like the smooth responce to a heli. It gives me the feeling it flows in the air rather than it`s fighting the air -which I personaly don`t like.
Since you have tried it on the BOL and it works then it will be a definetely try for me.

Maybe it`s the opposite that Rikybob seeks, a sporty reaction to any change of direction. But sure is a go for me and to those who have a camera (will give smoother video as now the heli is smoother to almost any change of direction).
And as you say with less vibrations too.

Thanks for bringing it up.

Spiros

pgroom_68

Hey.

I will be watching for that review for sure!
It would have to be new technology - 'cause "if it sounds to good to be true - it probably is".....

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Just as a comparison, [link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=9163]HERE[/link] is a true 1200mAh 20C lipo from Turnigy and it weighs 87g! Convince me
P.P.S. I own six Turnigy LiPos now - for another bird - so don't go ordering >1000mAh Turnigy Lipos expecting them to fit in an unmodded battery area.

pgroom_68

Hey again Spiros,

Could you please post detail of what you do with the bic crystal pen? (apart from writing of course)

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Xtreme blades would give you the type of flying preferences that you like IMHO

pgroom_68

Hey again Buzz,

I wasn't able to find the correct length screwdriver shaft near me either - so I paid for Jestine (handle: Electrotech) to buy and ship me five (which he did)
He documented installation well (see link below) - I was able to follow his lead and create my own extension from one of the screwdrivers that he shipped to me. Form your own opinion, but mine is that the screwdriver shaft could be modded to fit the metal head - but not easily - as it was a tight press fit into the plastic head if I remember correctly[sm=72_72.gif]

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
Edit: I went all the way back to page 26 and linked the manual [link=http://www.electronicrepairguide.com/big-lama-extended-long-shaft.html]HERE[/link]....

aircrash

Hi Peter,

I use BIC cristal to replace the stock clear tube of the canopy shoring.
It is enough rigid but quite flexy. A little more hard to flex than stock, so it helps also the canopy to be supported better while there`s enough flex when it is pushed so canopy can absorb a small crash, just like with the stock ones

I use only BIC make, either original cristal or medium (again with a clear cover). The other makes I have seen have a hard ink tube so there`s no flex at all.
You can take apart the head (ballpoint) from the ink tube, let it drain and then use a high alkaline detergent, such as pH 12 or even 14 to remove all the ink from the tube.
Of course take care with ink and high alkaline detergent. You could use alcohol instead of detergent but it doesn`t leave a clear tube like the detergent.

-

I do have xtreme blades, one blade out of one set broken, one set new. I like the way the BOL likes them but Ican`t afford to pay for them. Stock is too cheap (in comparison) to ignore them.

Spiros

pgroom_68

Hey again Sprios,

That is what I thought you posted earier - but isn't the tube stiff and transfers vibrations from motors to the canopy[sm=50_50.gif]

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

patricklupo

Thanks Aircrash (or Spiros?) for the Bic pen canopy shoring tip. Peter, here's some pic's of the type of ink pen I use (usually the cheaper the better) and what I use to remove to remove the ink with. I haven't noticed any more vibration in the canopy over the original flexy tubing. Keep the contact cleaner away from glasses though as it might eat through certain types of plastic.

pgroom_68

Hey - thanks Spiros & Patrick,

I had been using CF rod all the way through (just like the smaller Lama4 adopted) as a canopy shoring 'casue I got sick of screwing into such flexible tubing - but got vibrations transfered. When I heard what Spiros originally posted - I thought it made sense. A kind of "semi-flexible" solution

Patrick, I noticed in your second pic above that you have modded the battery area with clear ?? - what is that?

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

aircrash

Hi Peter,

You can use aluminium blind rivets instead of screws. Different sizes have different diameter shaft. Find a suitable one that makes a quite tight fit to the tube, then take off the barrel of the blind rivet and cut the shaft to the lenght you want. (I don`t know the terms)
Then instead of screwing a bolt you pull-push the aluminium pin.
You can also use a soft glue to glue the ink tube to the frame`s pins. Such as UHU all purpose glue, that will hold them in place, so it`s easier to screw a bolt and/or pull-push a pin.
No vibrations to me either.

-

Thanks Patrick. You can call me Spiros if you like.

Spiros

patricklupo

It's just a clear plastic sheet (about 0.5mm thick) between the skids and battery tray that Ivelcro my battery to. That way I can try different types of batteries orlocatethem forward to get more forward flight out of the heli. I'm too cheap tobuy super skids and a proper battery holder, andalso want to keep weight down to maximize flight times.

BTW, here's a quick video of my last camera test. Unfortunately the heli suddenly lost power about 50ft up and dropped out of the sky like a rock,destroying my canopy. I hope to have a replacment by this Saturday. This wasmy first test of the new1200mAH battery I mentioned earlier and I was fuming because I was sure itwas to blame, butcloserinspectionshowed that the motor wires to the 3 in 1 were pulled loose and thatthe extra wiring from the camerawerecaught in the gears. Still not entirely sure of the cause but the fact thatthe video (which is powered off the same heli battery)was still on, all the way to the ground,indicatedthere wasn'ta loss of power. I'm still a bit spookedand don'twant to recommend the new1200 mAHLiPo's until I canget a few more uneventful flights in.

http://www.vimeo.com/8755219

Since this video, I've improved thecamera color level, added a better video antenna and further reduced vibration,so hopefully future videos willlook(and end)better.

News Flash: Just saw this new Red/White Big Lama on Xheli.Wish Icould have ordered that canopy.

rikybob

Hi All!

Thanx for your great input on what seems to be a universal problem with the ole' BOL, bent shafts. Now that I am the proud owner of an RC711 full metal I neglected to look and see that they offer for sale a replacement extended inner shaft. You would figure they would as they dropped one in the box. Duh? I sent them an inquiry and will wait for a reply. With that said, you wonderful folk on this board started providing possible solutions by the droves. Lets look at them.

First, I need to establish that the inner shaft is in fact exactly 3mm. If so music wire can be purchased state side at this place [link=http://www.eastrc.org/estoresupplieslinkage.htm]Music Wire[/link] very inexpensively. I am interested to know who has taken on this task of manufacture and what best tools to use for same? I have a Dremel too and some files? What IS the best length of the inner shaft? I have to imagine that the shortest that we can can get by with is the best as this would decrease the rotational mass and thereby have less chance of bending said shaft? Peter?

Edit: Second, screwdriver surgery. Thanx to Peter for his repost of the book. I need to see if any of my local stores have these screwdrivers!!!!

Third, since this lil beast has the propensity to exhibit bent shafts (I wager on mine its the inner shaft as it is the longest and is slingin' large weights) that ANY deviation of its exact shape will cause vibration. So's I read what all you wrote as if it were the Dead Sea Scrolls because you folk are a WEALTH of information and in my true form figured that I would start with simple first (KISS).

The prize goes to Patricklupo! Although purists would advise that this is a band-aid to my problem my true mission is to get air time. In lieu of disassembling my little bird with out the necessary parts I went with this pro-tem fix. I simply added a ball link to the other side of the flybar. It worked like a charm! The bird stopped shaking violently and flew like a champ. Spiros concern that it would make the bird less responsive was not an issue. It flew just as before but without the persistent shake that it exhibited from the day I got it out of the box. Amazing!

I know, there again, that this is a stop gap measure and not a Panacea but this gets me air time while I wait for the inner shaft solution.


Many thanx to all for your great input!

R/B

retired92

To 'patricklupo & R/B', greetings all:

Please tell me the part number/where to be purchased the "ball link" that is used to connect the flybar to the upper blades. I would like to add the second link if this does in fact help stabilize the bird. Thanks in advance.............Don

rikybob

Hi Retired 92,

Here is the link [link=http://www.helidirect.com/esky-outdoor-big-lama-c-1_38_235_622.hdx]Ball connectors[/link] as I am not near my heli I cannot tell you if the individual ball links are the same as the one on the flybar buy you can check. Isn't Ridge Manor near Tarrytown?


R/B

aircrash

Hi Rikybob,

In a good heli it should have a smoother responce to any of the swashplate change (all the movements are done by changing the angle).
Also a bit better and sooner capable of hovering after some movements (by the time you stop movement and let it hover).
In your heli (as you tell it had wobble from the beggining) it gave you smoother behaviour that in your case smoother is better.

Two flybar link rods is exactly the opposite (in behaviour) of shortening the flybar (in a good heli).

Then you had taken a problematic heli. It should have no wobble at all. Something was wrong.

As I told you before if you don`t change the outer shaft then no matter how many inner shafts you change the wobble will still be present.


Spiros

sgbfly

Hi Spiros,

Thats a good idea. Thanks.

Simon

aircrash

Hi Simon,

well that way it is I do mostly: search alternative spare parts (other part numbers and/or make), buy spare parts, mess with modifying, watching the forum (you had gave me much information and help), but no flying !!!
And the best part is that I enjoy it !!!

I really enjoyed the key camera, and I would not knew about it if I didn`t have read mostly your posts (you had some nice video too -upload more). Basically I was watching the boardless brushless conversion parts and progress info, then Ijoined (as I found the forum to be nice and with other members to be also informative and helpful). So I was watching you basically.
I sold some cameras to some friends also !!! Perfect gadget for gadget maniacs !!!

I have to see what I`ll do with my spare parts, if I keep on ground (no flying) then I should convince some friend to buy a BOL and sell him the parts!!! - Just joking
Now that I`m thinking of it I could sell him a BOL too !!! (not mine) - Just joking

I should go and work on the tail boom project, but I can`t help it, I enjoy all the other while drinking coffee (in reality I`m waiting the new coaxial mixer, so to have an interest to finish it). Even if I work on weekend and it finishes still it would not fly. I`m too bored to get stock motors back...

Spiros

rikybob

Hi again Spiros,

Agreed ref: examining the outer shaft. My mission is, is the have a flyable bird and then replace ALL parts when I have to disassemble same. So rather than pull the bird down just to replace the outter shaft (oh which I have), logistically I will wait for an inner shaft solution to do both. Yer right....sumthin is wrong with my bird

retired92

Hi R/B,

The link you pointed out is for the "single link push rod" that connects the upper swash plate to the lower "B" blades, therefore the screw portion is way too long. Which push rod did you use when you connected the second one to the upper baldes?

Thanks........Don

kiwigeoff

Ddaddy,

It is very easy to change the Transmitter modes from Mode 1 to Mode 2. I have done it on a couple of Esky transmitters and it takes about 15 minutes. The link here is a Chinese / English version of how to do it. No soldering etc is required, the leads all reach. Take it slow and you will be up with Mode 2 in no time.

http://www.twf-sz.com/china/download...left-right.pdf

Geoff

patricklupo

Just a note that theball connecters on each end of the flybar link areofdifferent sizes. It's larger for the part that connects to the flybar and smaller for end that connects to the blade grip. You could probably find the right sizes at your LHS but I just ordered a new flybar EK1-0373 as it's comes with one.

At first my heli wouldn't fly right with the second flybar link, but then I kept spendingmore time adjusting it and now it flys as wellas it does with a single one, but with less vibration. I think the trick was to movethe flybar to one extreme and then pop on the second link and keep adjusting it until the flybar still moved as far as it did before.

Helipal is in Hong Kong and is a bit pricieron shippingbut have boththe flybar w/ball joint andthe new Red Canopy in stock. Otherwise state-side places like Xheli or Helihobby are going to be faster and cheaper.

rikybob

Agreed Patricklupo,

Don, right next to the ball connectors on the page I posted is a Flybar.



Regards!

R/B

Buz

Ok, nobody's safe now! I just installed another extended shaft in a second BOL... I hope I have some charged batteries because I'm heading out the door with it.

Does Xheli or anyone stateside carry the red canopy? I like that !

rikybob

Hooo T Hooooo Buz! I am a little green with envy!

Happy Flying!