mindwreck

kind of hard to say. its usually a tradeoff between torque and rpms. lower turn motors are fast but lack the torque of the higher turn motors. also high end fast motors require regular maintenance and give shorter runtimes.. an team orion sv2 bb or method v2 are cheap and fast motors. something in the 15-17T range would be nice for the tt-01. lower than this and you might run into heat adn gearing issues


Brushless motor are the fastest out there and its been mixed messages about running them in the tt-01. Some say it handles the mamba quite well and others can getting problems.

[quote]ORIGINAL: mhx

Tamiya Racing Car TT-01R Chassis Kit

What is the top speed for this car out of the box?


Whats a good, fast, trq'y brushed motor upgrade for it?

1. Balls out the Fastest one this chassis can handle?

2. Fastest one while keeping the thing reliable?
[/quote

Momchil

Ib power batteries may give me more run time is that gonna get rid of the heating the battery and mess it up?!?!My Epic is dead now!!!!
Isn't that from under or over gearing??!!!

Ajaxman

IB batts are great. Lots of power and really good runtimes, I run mine with my 15X4 speedgem in my tt-01 and 17X2 raven in my pede and it never gets really warm. As for motors overheating, its due to over gearing or drive train binding<----many people overlook this.

mindwreck

is it hitting its max rpm really quickly? pretty sure its overgear and your motor is drawing too many amps and your battery can't supply it, which is why it took a dump so fast

BuStMaHnUt

i just bought my tt-01 last week and i love it. but im having glitches. im running a Airtronics
MX3-S 3 Ch Synthesized Radio w/2 94102Z 75Mhz and whenever my friend's Blazer Sport BL2DR 2-102Z AM 75MHz touches my car's antenna, my car goes bererk. plz help!

xda2o2

hello all.

i recenly purchase a tt-01 from ebay. with a few nice hop ups. 15t reedy motor. Though a i bought a 19t so i could start racing at my local club. Im having trouble meshing my gears.

they are a 58t spur and ive gota 25t pinion. Now the pinion is 48pitch in size. Iwant to know what the hop up 58t spur's pitch is .is it 48pitch or something else. When i freewheel the car with power off it is very noisy and there alot of friction.

thanks

chris

p.s. cant wait until the carbon chasis comes out for the tt-01

seth556

My Feedback: (3)

I highly advise to everyone that running any brushless (except smaller sensored systems) is a bad idea. With my Mamba I blew out many drive train parts such as the drive shafts and the spur gear. I have also heard many reports of the diff being weak.

mindwreck

car uses 48p metric gears, you cannot use standard 48p gears. with the 25/58 gearing, the motor should be mounted at a one to the right of center. like this " / ". .

you should probably do a tear down and find out whats causing all the binding. Every time i get a used car i find the instructions and do a complete teardown and rebuild. this cars really simple, probably only take you like 2-3 hours to do it.

l

xda2o2

thanks for that.

ive got a 23t pinion that worked alright on the 15t motor along with the 58t spur so i will try that. i heard that there is a spur/pinion setup card that you can use for motor positioning. Where can i find this setup sheet other than in the tt-01 manual.

thanks

chris

Ajaxman

Hope this helps http://www.kawadamodel.co.jp/partsli...0.6module.html

xda2o2

thanks...

so the A B C D is how the motor should be aligned. so if picked 'C' the motor will be at 90 degrees (up on its side)?


thats a great help.

xda2o2

wait a minute do i have to drill new holes in my motor mount to fit some pinions??

Ajaxman

Yep on the ABCD part but why would you need to drill new holes for the motor mount? mine comes with all the holes as seen in the pic lol

xda2o2

sorry yes i see them now... im a bit new.. im just having trouble now getting them to run smoooth/mesh. when i loosen the pinion gear it works finebut when i come to tighten the grub screw it starts to grind not a nice feel.

Ajaxman

hahaha no worries. Try to see if the pinion is binding to other parts when you tighten it (like the plastic parts around it), if it is jus move it along the motor shaft to avoid contact with other parts. Also remember to use grease on the gears, helps alot. Don't worry about wrecking the gears, every1 has to go through that process and learn from it(good thing they're cheap). You said in one of your previous post that there is friction when u try to roll it. This is normal especially when dealing with new high end motors because of the strong magnets they're equipped with.

P.S. Like mindwreck said, its a really good idea to rebuild and regrease the diffs of a second hand car.

xda2o2

ahh i see. the pinion just freewheels over the motor shaft when its loose. and its the inertia of the motor that i feel when the pinion is tightened.thanks. i charge the batts i see if every thing is ok.

do you know of any online stores that do good quality hop-ups for tt-01's.. i see on ebay that there is a place called 3racing.com that seem to have good alloy parts there also design a full carbon chaisis for the tt-01. are these guys any good or are there any others.


ive got sofar

ball race bearing
uper carbon deck
metal motor mount
race steering
metal hubs
novak esc
58t
23t
25t


how much does weight make a difference. has anybody taken a standard stock tt-01 and reduced the weight as much as possible. how much can shave off a normal stock with upgrading to lighter stronger parts. Or is the only real place to save on weight is the batteries

cheers

Ajaxman

www.rcmart.com has the most *bling* aluminium parts for the TT-01 that i know of where as www.towerhobbies.com has more of the tamiya official parts. Im not really sure about updating the chassis of the tt-01 unless you plan on running it on really smooth tarmac or to laminate the bottom of the chassis as carbon is prone to scratching and cracking more easily than plastic. Some of the upgrades i would reccomend are

-Ball bearings all around
-Aluminium drive shaft
-Turnbuckle tie rods for front steering
-Oil filled shocks
-adjustable A-arms
-Race steering links and kits
-Metal motor mount

These are the hop ups you'd need to prepare the TT-01 for stock racing. If you wanna race in higher level races i'd recommend getting a better race oriented vehicle.
But if you just wanna have fun with minimal maintenance then the TT-01 is a great choice. If you just want a cool looking vehicle then just bling the heck out of it. They're some really good looking fully alloyed up TT-01s on these forums. Have fun

yellowfuzzle

Hello TT01 owners; I have just read all 91 pages of this thread and still have a question.

My friend and I are looking at purchasing a pair of TT01 Ds for drifting, bashing, and racing each other [driveways, parking lots, etc..]. I was wondering how well the stock TT01Ds drift. If they are pretty good drift cars stock then I will likely just get the Ds. But if they need better Tires/Motor/Shocks, then I might as well get the cheaper one, add ball bearings and an aluminum prop, and build it up from there.

Thank you.

ultraman69

hey alll...what's a good brand for a 13t esc??and what do you usually look for in a good esc

Ajaxman

The Traxxas XL-10 is a really decent esc for the price. And it goes down to 10 turns with 7 cells maximum. (Im a traxxas fan) But its pretty big and heavy compared to the more race specific ESCs so that might be a factor if you plan on racing.

mindwreck

3racing is a pretty good hop-up company, they make lots of parts for many parts. If you want it light, plastic is usually lighter. I've seen people cut carbon fiber sheets as a chassis. to be honest, its not worth the money time and effort. This car was designed to be a beginner to intermediate car. i got it so i can race in the Tamiya races and have some fun with my friend who also has a tt-01.

You can probably get away with shaving some parts on the car. parts are extremely cheap, the chassis itself is only 8 bucks!! at that price you can get a few and experiment if you really want to lighten your tt-01

mindwreck

drilling some extra holes can get you some extra gearing combos. The problem with the tt-01 is it only has a few gearing combos due to these preset holes. most other vehicles have completely adjustable motor mounts so you can gear it the way you want.

mindwreck

the tt-01 is a great start to drifting. just slap on some drift tires. glue up the diffs and your pretty much ready to roll. The tt-01D is even better as it already comes with a lot of hop-ups. bearings, the oil shocks, suspension arms, faster motor, etc. What you should get is the aluminum main shaft and you should be set. with the plastic drift tires, you don't need a lot of power to get them going sideways. people describe it as driving on ice.

If you want more realistic drifitng like what i do, then you;ll need a faster motor. i run hard rubber tires like 1:1 drift. Lot faster and harder, you need to be on your toes because your going pretty fast when you swing the car to get the tires loose. These cars are extremely durable, strong , but I can still manage to break parts doing full throttle drifting. your pretty much hitting a curb or something at full speed sideways instead of hitting it with the bumper. it hurts but its great fun.

mindwreck

last question and ill be caught up.. alright.. There are plenty of good esc. mostly depends on how much you want to spend. the duratraxx intellispeed escs are great for the money, smooth throttle and braking feel. The futaba mc330cr is also a good one, small and good for this vechicle with not to much freespace, good features and good performance. The traxxas XL-10 i've heard is good, but never tried personally so i can't speak on its behalf. They all go for 60-70 bucks.

DaveInLA

I have a newbie question about motor mounts on the TT-01. As I've mentioned before, I already mounted the stock motor on the chassis and am waiting for a bunch of hop-up parts before installing a 20T or 21T pinion gear. However, I notice that Tamiya says that the motor is mounted at different rotations depending on the pinion gear. That doesn't make sense to me, as all motors rotate in the same direction anyway and so you won't be changing the orientation at all. I mean, if you rotate the motor a 90 degrees from 19T to 21T, the orientation of the pinion stays the same, right? Can someone explain this to me?

One more thing: the instruction book says to attach ball bearing set when using a different pinion-- I don't understand this, either. They mean just 2 bearings, one at each point where the mount is screw onto the motor, correct?