cngaviation

My Feedback: (3)

Max, I see. How in the world did you mount that thing??? It doesn't look like a bolt-in solution.

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

I originally had the 305 Spring Airs where the nose gear was a flat mount just like the mains. I bolted it to a Kraft or Hayes motor mount for a .10 size motor (I can't remember which brand but i could go look) and was going to bolt the motor mount to the bulk head. You see the gear mounted on the motor mount in the pictures.

It would have worked except the bulkhead in the fuse was not square and the angle was way off. I had to make a wedge to correct the angle but now there wasn't enough space for the gear and the motor mount because of the wedge. So I ended up getting the 301 nose gear which is the firewall mount and i mounted that on the wedge.

TUMBLER

My Feedback: (13)

Most moden engines have a one piece crankcase now though. just realized that.

cngaviation

My Feedback: (3)

Max, do you have any pix of how it fits in the plane? I am planning on using elec. Would this take up any of the available space for batteries?

cngaviation

My Feedback: (3)

...So I ended up getting the 301 nose gear which is the firewall mount and i mounted that on the wedge.

What is "the wedge"? Did you have to modify the wheel well? I guess you removed the original rails?

thebluemax

My Feedback: (151)

You have room in the nose for the batteries, or it can go where the fuel tank would be, so I think you will be ok for that.


My plane was not the retract ready version so there are no rails. I had to build the supports for the mains and used a firewall mount for the nose gear which bolted on the bulkhead and I had to make the cutouts in the fuse and wing. I will see if I can get a picture of the wedge in the plane for you. The wedge is an aluminium spacer I had made up by one of the guys at the field. I originally made it out of balsa and ply and we used that as a model to make the aluminium wedge. It is about 1 inch wide at the top and goes down to about 1/8th of an inch at the bottom to correct the angle.

Randy M.

My Feedback: (38)

I don't know if anyone has done this yet. I lost track about 30 pages ago. I did a little modifing on the tail, buy cutting it off. I had a few to many inverted landings so I just cut the booms off. Made a couple fins, a little covering and BAM!
I should fly it soon. If all goes well, I'll do it on the retract version. Should pick up a little speed.

jroth

My Feedback: (60)

Yes, modern engines have a 1 piece crankcase; I bought my engine from RCU because it was a 2 piece crankcase.



Most moden engines have a one piece crankcase now though. just realized that.


quote:

ORIGINAL: jroth

Mark,

If you can rotate the front of the Crankcase, it might work, it is worth a try.

John

Waynesworld

i was wondering what servos should i use on my bobcat 50? size and torque?

cngaviation

My Feedback: (3)

Looks like I'll be doing some strengthening of the mounting area in the wings. This leaves the nose gear installation. The Springair 302 rail mount should work fine but I dread the pull/pull. This leaves the 301 firewall mount or the 305 flat mount for direct steering. Has anyone done either of these installs on a 'retract ready' version? Pix and descripts would be great!!! Thanks

cngaviation

My Feedback: (3)

Here's a photo of the nose area...

oops. I tried to upload a photo but it comes out too large--more than a screen full! Working on a solution

cngaviation

My Feedback: (3)

trying again

I give up. when i upload the photo, it shows up the size of a billboard! Anyway, I do have a nice photo of the nose area, I just can't share it with ya!

opjose

I was thinking of using either one of these for a direct linkage or two of these for a pull pull setup... on another plane...

From Hobby Lobby...

Picture on left below...

"HLH210 Pushrod Transfer Linkage, 2 ..... $ 2.50

Puts an end to slop and backlash caused by running a bent wire pushrod linkage through a fuselage. Use one for rudder pushrod, one for elevator. Simple to install: it also prevents those big ugly wallowed-out exit slots that your receiver could fall through."

And using a nose gear like this

Picture on right below

[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMJJ7&P=7]LINK![/link]

Notice the "slider" on the control arm.

still4given

Wow Randy,

Did you have to do much to get it to balance? You did away with quite a bit of weight aft of the GC.

It will be interesting to see how well it will fly like that. If it flies well, I can see this becoming a popular kit bash. One would save almost $100 by cutting out the 4 HS81 and extensions.

Blessings, Terry

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone know if the fuselage is epoxy based or polyester

littlepiston

My Feedback: (12)

it must be epoxy because epoxy sticks good to it if it was poly it would not although when you cut it , it smells like automotive fiberglass

Xairflyer

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks
That is the reason I asked, would prefer to add some blocks for mounting stuff with epoxy if I could

drbobsmith

This is probably already posted, but I've been waiting patiently for Robart retracts for my Bobcat and so far they are backordered everywhere. So, I ordered the Spring Air 102HD.
I got them yesterday and they are a near perfect fit on the "retract ready" version and only cost about another $10.00 above the Robart 520W1. I plan to put my Rossi 60 on mine with an 11x7. Anybody tried a Rossi yet?

Stick Jammer

Well I finally got to maiden my Bobcat a couple of weeks ago and it flew very well. Fixed gear, OS .55AX with 11x7 APCp on 15% CoolPower, CG at 10.25". It seemed a little under powered as it left the ground but improved as I gained some altitude. The .55 is a little on the rich side yet with only two tanks run through on the ground. That CG setting seemed to be perfect, no major pitch change with throttle. Unfortunately the landing didn't go as well as the flight [&o]. Kept coming in hot so on the fourth attempt I tried to angle it in to catch what little wind we had that day. I had spoilerons programed but too much throw and had to click them off. The wheels were on the grass but I was unable to turn it away from our saftey fence and the right wing did a tango with one of the poles. That ended my day with only one flight. The good news is I have the wing repaired, just need to recover it. Several have asked and commented about the neutral setting of the elevator. I'll pass along my results. I had the elevator set slightly up from being level with the bottom of the stab and it needed 5 clicks of up once it was in the air. My final elevator setting is as follows: Place a straight edge on the bottom of the stab, the elevator trailing edge is 5mm up. Ordered one of the retract ready versions at the new low price, couldn't pass it up. Where's the best place to get a set of Spring Air 102HD?

cngaviation

My Feedback: (3)

Stick--I just received a set of 302's from Springair and they fit perfect. Lower profile than the 100 series leaves a slight gap between the gear ass'y and the top sheeting. I think the 100 series will touch the upper skin and possibly protrude slightly on the underside. Check the measurements on Springairs' website. The nose is plug and play, the mains require 1/8th inch trim of inboard wing sheeting at the gear mount opening.

drbobsmith

Actually, the flange size is identical between the 100 series and the 300 series. They are made from the same gauge material. There is a 1/8 in difference in depth with the 300s being shallower, but this has no impact on installation. The 102HD has 3/16" struts and is $40.00 cheaper. I have the gear in the plane and they are practically flush with the skin. Nose gear flange is slightly below skin level.

Randy M.

My Feedback: (38)

So far, I've done away with the added nose weight and moved the rx battery to just in front of the servo tray. I will balance it in the same spot I had before, right on the forward boom mount holes. Canards may be next.

Stick Jammer

drbobsmith,
The SpringAir 102HD kit has a 100 degree nose gear, is this what is needed for the retract ready version? Also it appears from the info I can find that the Robarts 520W1,s are the same depth as the SpringAir 100 series, 1 1/8". I measuerd the depth of my wings and it looks like 1 1/8" will be very close or maybe even touching the top skin. Anyone else with more info feel free to chime in. Thanks.

drbobsmith

Stick Jammer,
The 101HD is a 100 degree unit. The 102HD is a 90 degree unit. The robart 520W1 are the retracts most posters have been using and they fit.

cngaviation

My Feedback: (3)

The opening in my wing surface where the units mount measured 46mm x 35mm. I had to enlarge the opening by about 3mm to 46 x 38--very simple trim with hobby knife. Other than that, the units fit great and do not crowd the available space. I got set of 302's for $150 from Spring Air. I am a little perplexed about how to accomplish the pull/pull though???