Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The quickest way to find your way is just wade in and then ask as you go. Different guys here have experience with differing aspects.

SrTelemaster150

The "PUMP" that comes W/the FA220 BBC (12mm) carb is just a set of checkvalves, 1 in , 1 out that uses the crankcase as an aircompressor.

While it does improve fuel delivery, the metering, or regulation of the system is a bit crude compared to the Cline regulator.

While the 12mm carb boosted power significantly on the 13:1 CR FA180 boosting RPM to 8450 w/an 18X8 prop breathing through a ported intake manifold, I would not expect it to increaese power output on an otherwise stock engine.

A crankcase "pump" can be fabricated W/simple inline checkvalves, 1 -ay in, 1-way out. A spray bar can be used to make a bleed off valve.

It does work. My 300TTDP dual carb 300 twin idles depenadabally @ 800 RPM W/great trasnsition.

RH

Good advice! I have no trouble wading in. In fact sometimes I manage to wade in when the water is REALLY deep.

Rick...

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I always figured that it was a waste of $114.00. Your C&H ignition friend now owns my 2.20.

SrTelemaster150

The "waste" is putting the 12mm carburetor on the stock 11mm manifold. Why Saito ever put out such a product is beyond me. The 220 & 180 share the same stock intake manifold.

I intend to buy up a few more BB220 carbs/pumps for further HP modifications. I want to convert my standard FA180 to HC by milling .035" off the case deck as well as utilize the 11mm FA180 carb on my FA150 that will soon have an FA180 conrod on the crank to increase CR.

When I opened up the FA150 manifold to 12mm on the updraft section & opened up the horizontal section to the FA180 intake port size (& eliminated the aluminum washer that was causing restriction) power output of the 13:1 CR FA180HC CDI engine W/the Cool Power 15% nitro blend jumped to 3.45HP.

30% nitro O'Donnell Speed Blend fuel upped power output to 4HP.

Fuel economy W/the 30% nitro was still slightly better than the stock Glow Ignition 9.56:1 CR FA180 running on GI W/15% Cool Power fuel while making 40% more HP.. (3.94HP compared to 2.81HP)

Rudolph Hart

Sr with all due respect we are not just bench running engines here.We fly them as well and real world comparisons are good to talk about too

SrTelemaster150

In theory, the Cline regulator will be the most consistant "in the air"

Of the Perry ocsilator, Perry crankcase pressure, Saito checkvalve crankcase pump & the Cline, the Cline, as I understand it, is the only example of an on demand diaphram regulator that is used in addition to check valves .

The check valves do the pumping in all of the pumps cited. The Saito uses a metering bleed off valve wile the Perry pumps rely on the stroke of the checkvalves to control volume.

SrTelemaster150

HP in the air is even more fun that HP on the bench.

As long as it is dependable & does not severely detract from fuel economy, what's not to like?

SrTelemaster150

Now that I think about it, the Cline & the Perry Ocsilating pumb the only option on an unven firing twin. (or radial)

No positive crankcase pressure to work the checkvalves.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Dan are you going to use the 1.80 gas engine as the base for your mod? It has the three bolts holding the intake pipe onto the engine like the 2.20 has. Thanks, Dave

SrTelemaster150

No Dave, I work W/the FA versions.

Not real fond on Saito FG (gas) engines.

The FA150/FA180/FA220 use a common intake manifold casting.. Not having ever owned an FA120, I can't speak from experience.

The FA180/FA220 standard itake maniflold is the same paert #. The 10mm FA150 manifold can be ported to match the 11mm FA180/FA220 carb or the 12mm BB 220 carb.

The idle/transition W/the 12mm carb was not detrimentally affected. Probably because of the volumetruic effeciemcy of thesmaller HC 13:1 CR chamber.

Not much difference in (CDI) fuel consumpsion @ part throttle than the 11mm carb, but 300 MORE RPM @ WOT on the same 15% Cool Power.

BTW: I haven't utilized the "pump" yet on the 12mm BBC engine. There is some surging until the fuel level in the tank drops so I think that I will set up the pump eventually

EDIT: The FA220 & FA180 share then same 11mm Standard carb, but not the same manifold.

It was the common carb body Part # that allowed me to utilize the 12mm Carb on the FA180 intake manifold.

Rudolph Hart

Thanks for that mate.I've just hamfisted a rear main bearing and damaged the shield so after i cool down it's back out to the shed and fit another with a bit more patience this time.

Rudolph Hart

A quick update.Got a bit timid heating the case properly at first,the front bearing is easy but i did'nt properly thru heat the large rear case section so when i dropped the room temp rear main into the hole it was slightly crooked,did a fnq and got a bigger hammer out,how are you mate?

Gave the case a good two minute heat up with a paint stripper gun(old oil residue starts smoking)and this time slid the rear main onto the crankshaft first.Dopped the whole assy and gravity smacked the bearing home,perfect fit and crank alignment,once cool i tapped the crank back a little.All you could feel was a slight drag from the fully sealed front main bearing,boy am i a happy camper new gaskets and o rings in the engine,hooked up to a cline regulater this thing should go li9ke the clappers

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks man, that's what I was gittin at.

SrTelemaster150

I use heat as well as the freezer make things slide together more easily.

AeroFinn

Ok guys

I got the bearings I ordered from Rc-bearings.com installed on my FA-125 with aid of freezer (bearings) and a heat gun (crancase) I guess I could'nt have done it without the help of this forum! Grreat!

Anyways, I'm installing the new piston & connecting rod but what's the dot mark on the connecting rod for? is it to be facing towrads the backplate or what?? i didn't pay attention to this when i dismantled the engine.. (see the picture) Can you please help as the manula doesn't show how to install it

AeroFinn

edit: it seems to fit better if the "dot" is facing towards cam gear. Please correct me if I'm wrong but this might be the way to install it.

AeroFinn

..And what should we think about this genuine Saito engine gasket? I guess I'd better get some gasket paper of the correct thickness and make one that fits properly. Why on earth can't they make make it right and charge a bit more for a good gasket set so there wouldn't be any fuss..

hsukaria

Did you try rotating it 90 degrees more? It may not be equal bolt spacing all around?

Rudolph Hart

Hi mate yes the dot faces the camgear.I usually leave the piston ring and rod in the cylinder when doing bearings only.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Look for the chamfer first. This is a slight bevel. It faces the crankshaft.

AeroFinn

Yes I did but but without any help? Do you happen to know the thickness of this gasket so I could by some gasket paper of the same thickness? Unfortunately I don't have a tool to measure it by myself. And the thicknesss of the gasket has to be correct so the compression ratio won't be changed.

Cherokee Flyer

The gasket goes between the crankcase and the cover, the cylinder is a metal to metal fit.

L.

AeroFinn

Oh boy..thanks mate!

I definitely don't feel like being very clever right now..

Rudolph Hart

Woops blw is right and me wrong.I've got two 82's and in one of them i pulled the piston out while doing a bearing change,just so i could see what they looked like.All i know is the one with the rod dot facing the cam gear runs hard.The machined surfaces on the barrel to cranckcase are very nice,no gasket and not much pressure to contain anyway.No 'oil leaks' that gasket looks like it is made for the rear plastic cover,i don't use them either.I've never had any machine screws ever come undone on a saito with very moderate tensioning,don't be tempted to go near it with loctite.